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Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
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Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
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Pantontino
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Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 11:32:45 am
This is a major line, and he nailed it in a single session!
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/09/24/the-ambassador-e8-6c-%E2%80%93-last-great-line-on-milestone-buttress-falls-to-caff/
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Moo
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#1 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 11:38:16 am
I'm interested to know what style calum was trying to climb it in, headpoint or ground up?
Great effort by Caff
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Pantontino
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#2 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 11:40:24 am
Headpoint. Bear in mind that he first attempted it in 2010; his climbing standard has improved significantly since then.
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dave
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#3 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 12:49:04 pm
From that photo it looks like a direct start is on the cards.
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Stubbs
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#4 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 01:52:51 pm
Ouch, no friends on powder days I guess!
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petejh
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#5 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 04:30:18 pm
Quote from: dave on September 24, 2013, 12:49:04 pm
From that photo it looks like a direct start is on the cards.
The direct start is The Tree of Man E5 6b, but the CC Ogwen guide has it incorrectly marked on the topo as finishing up the arete now taken by the E8. Which is partly why this line remained unclimbed for so long - it looked from the guidebook topo as though it had already been done (wouldn't have liked to have been an unwitting leader on The Tree of Man!). It's got to be one of the best hard climbs in the area, had one very brief top rope 2 years ago and it's a mint visual line on immaculate rock.
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Wood FT
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#6 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 04:45:35 pm
any reason why this wasn't the chosen start with Caff's new route then?
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petejh
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#7 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 05:22:16 pm
I can't recall why it didn't seem better to start direct. I remember the E5 looked a bit steep and dirty at the start but nothing a brush wouldn't have sorted out. Maybe it was wet.
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Wood FT
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#8 Re: Caff climbs Milestone Buttress Central Block arete project
September 24, 2013, 10:25:29 pm
fair enough, bloody brilliant all the same, at least that's left a little bit of an incentive for Calum if/when he repeats the route
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