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Got my mojo working again.
12 May 2011, 5:13 pm

Last year was a bit of a write off for a couple of reasons. This year is looking much more promising. The weather is better and we've been able to get out on the rock regularly since just before Easter. As a result, I'm feeling fitter and I'm really psyched.

The weekend after coming back from Rodellar, I managed to redpoint "Connecting People". Before the holiday, I was sure it was 8a+, but after redpoint I decided to agree with everybody else with 8a. Either way, it's a great connection linking "Come on Chris" and "le Dernier Jour de Democratie" at les Marches du Palais.

Last weekend, we went up to Le Palais, which is a really long walk above Monaco, and I got stuck into "le Mort de Cesar", an excellent 8a that finishes up another 8a ("On Attendant le Hubbert Peak") I did 4 years ago. First go, was the usual hard graft sitting on the rope dogging sketch, but 2nd go I finally got the moves (and kneebars) sorted. So, I have this route now ready for the redpoint, maybe this Saturday. Afterwards, we stopped by at Petit Palais (amazingly for the 1st time, having always walked past). We did the 6c+ and 7a+, both of which were tough for the grade. We went back for a very quick session on Sunday, before Man Utd played Chelsea. Elaine played on the 6c+ and I managed "Gladiator", a tough but great 7b+ with a tricky cross through move.

Yesterday, we went to Mesa Verde, in the Gorges du Loup and had lots of fun talking and joking with Marie-Jo, Julien, Sabine and Laurence. Conditions were great. So Elaine and I wamed up on the steep 6c+ and "Pas de bras, pas de chocolat" 7a, then I found another brill project. I'd never done "Petit Poucet", so I thought it would be a good one to try with the connection into "Arrowhead". This is fantastic and I've got it sorted for redpoint now.

So, I now have a problem. Where to go this weekend? Which route to try? Or should I try both? Only one more day, trying to motivate the next generation and then back on the rock! It's great to be psyched again....

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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24 May 2012, 10:59 am

I'd forgotten that I'd set up this blog last year, perhaps because I hadn't had anything interesting to put in it. Perhaps not.

We haven't seemed to do a lot of climbing in the last year, not like we used to do. We spend too much time looking at the weather forecast and staying at home, if there is any hint of rain! We should bite the bullit and get away in the camper van more often.

Since early April, I have had to put up with a numb lower lip, teeth and chin on the left side of my face. This is because the dentist cut the mandibular nerve when re-doing a root canal (as I had an infection in a root). I usually see Helen in Cagnes sur Mer, but she is always booked up, so I saw her associate instead. I have had to have an operation in my mouth to try and sort out the problem. The op was successful. However, the nerve is unlikely to regenerate and I am slowly getting used to the lack of feeling. As a result, I am missing 2 crowns and a bridge and feeling very self conscious when opening my mouth. Eating is no longer a pleasure, as I often bite myself (at least I don't feel it!) and I can't talk for long as my mouth hasn't fully healed inside. We have a GAV insurance, which should enable me to gain some compensation.

On Tuesday, we went to see Coldplay in Nice. The rain stopped at last and it was a fantastic gig with amazing special effects. Everybody had a magic coloured bracelet that lit up. We got home way after 2am as the roads were jammed solid. I'm hoping that I can attach some photos to this......







We have been out a few times recently; a day bouldering at Annot, la grotte at La Brigue and some days in the gorge. This afternoon, I'm meeting up with some friends at Mesa Verde, which is hopefully dry. We'll see.



Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Je suis un lion tres amicable qui s'appelle "Parsley"
3 October 2012, 6:22 pm

I do the shopping now. It is something I try hard to fit in between working and climbing (remember, I now work part time, ok?). I like doing the weekly shop. I get to buy nice wine and there is always beer in the house now. Anyway, I slipped up a few weeks ago, when re-stocking the camper van. I bought a jar of ciboulette (chives) instead of basil. Otherwise, my track record is doing well.

Tonight we ate early (after a quick session at Jurassic Park) as the Boss had to go for a scan on her left hand (she slammed into the rock whilst belaying me when I fell off somewhere recently and it's been hurting since). We haven't had as much fun over tomates et mozzarelle for a long time! Reason: we got talking about the ciboulet and that prompted us to remember the 60's children's tv series called "The Herbs". It was quite worrying how quickly we trawled through over 40 years of memories and we were soon excitedly trying to remember the characters. However, I puffed my chest out when I remembered Parsley and then threw the ace when I sang the first line of his signature tune: "I'm a very friendly lion called Parsley". Get in!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Herbs

Check it out dudes.

Here's a couple of shots of Elaine climbing at Jurassic Park.





Tomorrow: Fatman and Robin go to secteur Jacob at la Turbie. That'll wipe the smile of my face, as there's nothing easy (below 8a) left for me to do there! Maybe, I'll get a good project as that's what I need..... Watch this space!

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Pocket power (or the lack of)
8 October 2012, 8:03 pm

I'm a very, very slow climber. Always have been and always will be. I'm even slower than Tony Mitchell (but nowhere near as stylish). I imagine watching me climb is completely different from the fast, action-packed movement of Chris Sharma and even less interesting than watching paint dry. That's because I started climbing on nuts and I didn't dare fall off. By necessity, climbing was like a war of attrition; you took your time and hung on by the grit of your teeth. Old habits die hard. The result is that I really struggle with anything that comes near to a hard move, due to a complete lack of what Ben and Jerry called "power". Just like the late, great Jim Jewel, I can't pull on the smallest holds, but those I can pull on, I can pull on all day. At Art'bloc I struggle on the warm ups, but put me on a long route with good holds and I'm in heaven.

Yesterday, after a very sweaty Saturday at Cineplex (getting closer on my project there) we went to Mesa Verde. There is a new 7c there, which Big Ben said was really good. However, he failed to mention that the crux involves a mono. (Ok, even I can manage the odd mono move.) But this mono was very painful indeed and it was impossible to bear the pain. I actually got past the mono on redpoint but my finger was in agony. So, I need to go back and do it properly without the rest. Maybe on Wednesday.

Pockets have always been hard work. This mono can be added to the list  that also includes the bi-doigt on Au Bout du Souffle (left hand 1st and  2nd fingers), the bi-doigt on Barjorland (middle 2 fingers on right  hand) and the bi-doigt on Soul Sacrifice (middle 2 fingers, right hand  again). At least I managed the first two but never completed SS, despite  it being a stones throw from home.



Pulling on the 2 finger pocket on Au Bout du Souffle, in 2005

Elaine has got a small broken bone in her left hand from a few weeks back, whilst belaying me. And today, she had a synovial fluid injection in her problem middle finger on her right hand. Hopefully, that should see her on the mend and she can get back to normal soon.

Parents evening tomorrow, arrrgggghhhhh!!!



Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Francois Hollande et sa chemise
11 October 2012, 7:27 pm

Fatman and Robin made it out together today after a 2 week break. We met up at the parking spot for le Palais. Conditions weren't promising as there was way too much humidity and the cloud layer was very low. Still, we set off for Petit Palais as planned.

 Franco and Flaviano were already there. Flaviano was wearing a really bright orange shirt (chemise) and I mentioned that he was making a statement by wearing it. We discussed the possibility of an equivalent French word for "statement" and it seems there is no such word. I tried to explain it was rather like Francois Hollande stating that he would have a clean and straight government. So, Robin tried his best to get his head round this revelation, but in the end he said he couldn't really see the link between Francois Hollande and Flaviano's shirt! Erm, you had to be there really ....

We had a great day, despite poor conditions. Robin made  short work of "Le Retour de Mo", a very powerful 7c/7c+ and I managed a  1st redpoint of "Quel trip te guette?", a fantastic 7c+ that I'd had my  eye on for a couple of years. An early finish for 2 very happy crag  rats.

Flaviano climbing "Ideal Pouf", 7b





Robin climbing "Le Retour de Mo", 7c/7c+

Chuffed to do the new 7c at Mesa Verde yesterday, too. Looking good for Cineplex this weekend.

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Sponge Bob Square Pants and the Monsoon.
11 November 2012, 5:43 pm

Earlier this year, I met up with a couple of great mates (from my previous life back in cold, wet Britain) at Ceuse. As usual, I had to make sure I had my thick skin on, as Ewan and Steve both have a wicked sense of humour. Anyway, Steve very quickly spotted the cheap jeans that I was climbing in and proceeded to hurl abuse my way. (At 6 euros a pair from Carrefour they are great value and they're brilliant for kneebars; they don't get holes first time the knee goes behind a tufa and you don't need to faff about with kneepads either.) As the banter developed, he dealt the killer punch line (after I had let slip that they were 30" waist and 30" leg). Since then, I have had to get used to the nickname of "Sponge Bob Square Pants"!!!

Erm, changing the subject quickly. Since the last entry, we have had an awful lot of rain down here. So much that most of the crags are now very wet and will take a long time to dry. The rain came in earnest during the 1/2 term holiday of course and at the weekends as well. How typical is that? So, Fatman and Robin haven't been back to Peillon, which will definitely be dripping. Crags in the Gorges du Loup are also very wet too.

We did get to Italy for a couple of nice days as well as to "Alcatraz". Alcatraz is a fairly new crag (equipped by the mega keen Olivier Germain) which has some classic routes, that don't seep much, overlooking Monaco. It was really encouraging to do the brilliant "Mont Fantasme" (7c+) in a day.

Changing the subject again. Elaine is now climbing again. We've been to the local bouldering walls a couple of times. She is taking it easy of course, but her finger seems to be getting better. Great news indeed.

Another positive: Liverpool have just equalised against Chelsea. Come on the Reds, lets get 3 points! (It'll make a nice change!!!)

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Funny how things go sometimes.
26 November 2012, 8:27 pm

Funny how things go sometimes. You can spend ages trying to get fit again, trying and always falling off stuff and feeling like you're not getting anywhere. Then one day everything clicks into place; you know you're on form and the climbs suddenly feel easy when you do them.

That's what's been happening since taking up what my old mate Phil Davidson was doing 30 years ago! Yes, I've stopped eating any old rubbish, ie. no processed food, no sugar and low on the carbs. This has meant oat bran and natural yoghurt for breakfast, plenty of fruit and ryvita style biscuits during the day and salad without bread in the evening and definitely no beer. In just 4 weeks I've lost 6kg and I'm feeling great!

Anyway, in the last 3 days I managed several 7a/b's, 2 7b+ onsights, almost a bouldery 7c onsight (so 1st go redpoint) and redpointed 2 8a's. Brilliant!

We've also been going down to Art'Bloc on Wednesday afternoons, as the days are too short to get out after work now. There are so many great problems to do. Just as well, as we'll be spending more time there as the forecast is not good for the rest of the week. Let's see what Thursday and the weekend bring.



Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Happy new year everybody
1 January 2013, 2:22 pm

It's a damp, cold day here in Le Rouret, very un-French and more like typical UK weather. Still, it doesn't matter as my body needs a rest after climbing the last six days.

The last month has been colder (not surprising for December, I know) and I caught a pretty bad cold at school. I still haven't shaken it off, so the climbing has suffered. We spent some time bouldering at Art'bloc and Valle de grimpe, but hardly any time outdoors. With the holidays arriving, we were keen to get away in the Cali but didn't want to make the usual long drive to Catalunya. So, we decided to head to Valle Pennavaire (Castell Bianco) near Albenga an hour and a half away in Italy. Unfortunately, the sun didn't follow us and the crags were very wet, so we returned home for Christmas after enduring two damp and cold days at Terminal.

After Christmas dinner, we were wondering where to go next. Elaine came up with a great idea to go to the crags near Toulon. Immediately I was transported back in time, remembering the long falls off En un combat douteux at Cimai (whilst putting the clips in for Ian Vickers, who refused to watch me so that he could do it onsight!). Patrick Edlinger gave me some great beta for the last section, that enabled me to redpoint the same day Ian did Treblinka Direct. That was a very cold day in March, 1996 and it was the last time I had been climbing near Toulon.

So, we headed off in the Cali and were climbing in the sun at Coudon, about two hours after leaving home. Brilliant! Elaine was happy to do some easy 6a's to test her finger and I was happy with just onsighting up to 7a+ (not easy on match stick edges on vertical walls, just like in the 80's!). After two days we moved on to Baou des quatre oures and found the climbing much more friendly (i.e. steeper and with bigger holds) at secteurs Cayenne and Minarets (ticking away at the routes in the excellent Cote d'Azur Rockfax). We did loads of brilliant, long routes from 5+ up to 7b+ and most of the time we had the crag to ourselves. We headed home last night for a well earned rest, as the forecast was for rain today.

It really feels like winter here now, the temperature downstairs in our "cave" has dropped to 11 degrees and I had to light the fire at mid day. Snow was forecasted today but so far hasn't arrived.

2012 was not a year that we'll remember with great affection in years to come, but we do have some fond memories that have made us very happy and put big smiles on our faces. We're hoping to have lots more happy times in 2013. And of course, I'd like to wish all of you all the best for the coming year, great health and hope you realise your dreams.

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Wet Monday afternoon
14 January 2013, 4:22 pm

Scamp and I have just got back home after our walk up the hill behind our house. It was pretty cold out there - I had to put a fleece over my T shirt and hoodie! However, what I should have put on was a waterproof. From the summit, I could see that it was raining over Roquefort les Pins and, on the way down, it caught us about 15 minutes from home and we got pretty wet. Still, it could have been much worse. Now the fire is roaring away and a very happy, tired dog is sleeping underneath and I've got a mug of Twinings Earl Grey. We're both drying out nicely.

Not-so-Fatman and Robin have been out cragging. They were seen having a merry old time at Castillon last week. On Thursday, N-s-F was chuffed to do a 7c he hadn't done before called Ultimate Mort de Faim, which does all of Starlette then follows tufas and a groove to the top of the crag after 30 metres of very varied climbing. On Saturday, they both hauled themselves up the first part of Mortal Kombat, a tough, powerful 7c+. N-s-F had already done the full version at 8b in 2005 (an event he happily relives most days) but it was the first time for his trusty side kick, Robin. They then moved onto Doom (down graded to hard 7c), the route just to the left of Mortal. (N-s-F did this with "steady" Eddie Martinez way back in 1998, before he moved down here with lovely wife and Merlin.) They both huffed and puffed, with arms that were already feeling tired. Unfortunately, it was too much for the young Robin (who apparently was heard to complain about the age difference as N-s-F reached the belay, after a real fight up the damp tufa in the middle!).

Whilst the boys were out battling with the real thing, Elaine went to Val de Grimpe (a fantastic bouldering wall nearby, opened up by Alex Chabot) and had an equally merry time by all accounts with no problems experienced with her injured finger. We will be doing more of the same at Art'Bloc this Wednesday afternoon (shame Val de Grimpe doesn't open until 6pm!!).

Yesterday was cold and overcast and Liverpool were not up to beating Man Utd. Just when will they be able to knock Fergie and Man U off the perch that used to be Liverppool's?

Oh well, I should drag myself downstairs and do some bouldering in the cave. See ya.



Source: Mike Owen's blog

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January and February 2013
7 March 2013, 10:17 am

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The fingery lower section of Chouchou Place, 7c. Photo by Julien/Voyages a la verticale.[/td][/tr]

[/table]It's Thursday again (the only day I get to lie in whilst Elaine takes Scamp for a walk). It's also the day that Not-so-fatman and Robin get together and have the difficult task of going out climbing on the fabulous Cote d'Azur crags. I know, it's a tough life! However, unfortunately it's been raining for a couple of days now and today is shaping up the same way. Time for me to catch up, as it's been a while since my last blog.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mike, Elaine, Scamp, Marie-Jo, Gerard and Marc at Chouchou Place (photo by Julien/Voyages a la verticale)[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Scamp at Greolieres in January[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Chouchou Place, 7c (photo by Julien/Voyages a la verticale)[/td][/tr]

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Since the new year, the weather has been very unsettled. Typically the pattern has been for an unsettled week with periods of heavy rain followed by a week or two of good weather, during which it has been possible to climb on the dry crags (ie. mostly those without tufas). Then the rain has returned again. It's been pretty frustrating for all the keen climbers down here. Most of us have been ticking over, occasionally snatching some good routes and keeping fit at Art'Bloc and Val de Grimpe.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Scamp on the way to Chouchou Place in February[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin warming up on a 6c at Chouchou Place in the February sun[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The whole place to ourselves. How cool is that?[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine still looking good in SOS pants at Isola[/td][/tr]

[/table]Elaine and I have even been skiing and making the most of the brilliant conditions. We've had a couple of great days at Isola 2000 (where there was almost 3m of snow) and a couple of superb days at Valberg last weekend. Yours truly had a nasty wipe out at Isola, cutting my head (5 stitches needed) and covering the piste with lots of the red stuff. The irony was that the day before I had a helmet in my hand at Decathlon but decided not to buy it. Guess what was the next thing we bought?



I'm made up that I've remembered how to upload photos! And I'm psyched for some bouldering this afternoon with Marie-Jo, Julien and Robin whilst the rest of you folks are keeping the world turning! See ya!

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Oats and bouldering
14 March 2013, 9:47 am

I'm just letting my "Quaker Oats" settle. They make a nice start to the day with honey and ground cinnamon, when I'm not working. So, I've booted up my laptop and found an email from Atout Roc (the local climbing club that I donated my earnings from Rockfax a couple of years ago) with an up to date topo of Chouchou Place (the current spot a la mode). Great; it looks like there's still more to go back for, if and when the weather improves long enough.

At the moment the sun is out, but I've checked the forecast again and they're still saying rain later on. So, Robin and I have a rdv for Art'bloc this afternoon. Should be a tough session, as my body aches from yesterday's session at Val de grimpe! Plus, my ribs/intercostal muscles are still really sore from my ski accident 3 weeks ago! It's important to get the excuses out ready...



















Talking about indoor bouldering, I think I've got some old photos of our board in St Helens. I'll trawl the collection and see what I can post.

I could only find some outdoor bouldering shots from the 90's. See if you can identify any. Meanwhile, I'll be thinking of you all again working away today. Allez, ciao!

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Another rainy Thursday....
28 March 2013, 10:54 am

It's surprising how quickly the time passes (even when the weather's not good enough to get out on the rock!). Since my last post, 2 weeks ago, Robin and I managed to get out only once. We had a great day at Chouchou Place last Thursday. It felt like spring had arrived as it was warm and sunny. Since then it's been raining more or less every day and there seems to be no end in sight! (Still, it's not as bad as the UK weather at the moment.)

So, the climbing walls are eating into our bank account big time. Imagine my surprise bumping into a bloke I used to teach 12 years ago at Art'bloc yesterday! Eugen wasn't really motivated in school, though he was an interesting and very respectful teenager. He's here on holiday, so I'm going to meet up with him for another session there today. So I hope to find out how he got involved in climbing. I do remember he was into martial arts and was very athletic. He blew my mind when he did a back somersault from the top of a 9m cliff into the river, during a break whilst canoeing. Boy, I was so impressed and I'm really chuffed that he's got into climbing.

I managed to find and scan some old slides of our original climbing board back in St Helens from around 1992. We added loads of holds later on and it became quite popular with  local climbers Pete Chadwick, Ewan McCallum and Steve Tonks. A regular visitor was Lancs power house John Gaskins and even Tony Mitchell put in a couple of appearances.







Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Para Para Paradise
22 April 2013, 4:42 pm

Imagine it's your birthday. Imagine, also, that it's Christmas. Oh, and new year, too. And, come to think of it, imagine it's just about all the great days in the year all happening at once. It's like having so many presents you just don't know which one to open first. Well, you've just discovered what it's like to climb on Kalymnos!

If you're any sort of climber, you'll have heard about Kalymnos. But, if you're not you won't have. Kalymnos is a very small, barren island a few km north of Kos and therefore part of Greece. There isn't much there or really much to do either, though the climate is nice (ie. sunny and warm). The Kalymnian economy relies on summer tourism since the decline of the island's sponge industry. Fresh water is sparse and tastes salty. The sanitation system can't cope with toilet paper, so it has to go in a bin next to the toilet! However, as luck would have it, the west side of the island has cliffs. Lots of them. And spectacular they are, as well. Since 1997, Kalymnos has actively encouraged the equipping of these cliffs to entice climbers from all around the world to sample their amazing climbs. There are plenty of studios and rooms to rent at affordable prices and within walking distance of many of the crags.  It's very cheap to eat out in the numerous restaurants and the locals are so friendly (most speak excellent English). If you fancy visiting the outlying crags or just want to go sight-seeing it is possible to hire a scooter for the day. This is not new information, of course.  

Elaine and I had not paid a visit. We live in a beautiful part of the world already, which has a wealth of fantastic climbing all year round. Plus having a dog, which we don't like leaving behind and also now having a camper van to travel. And so on. There have been many excuses over the years. However, the urge to go had been getting stronger and stronger in recent years. Infact, I became so envious each time I read people's posts on Facebook. Eventually, I daren't mention the "K" word in the house for fear of upsetting my loving and dearest! However, this year's bad weather, in most of Europe, meant that we finally got to go at last.

We flew from Milan direct to Kos and took the ferry to Kalymnos, just like thousands before us had. We had a wonderful surprise awaiting us at Pothia. We hadn't seen Chris Craggs for about twenty years, but there he was at the harbour, ready to take us to our accomodation at Louistudios, run by the super freindly and efficient Louis Siahamis. After shopping for provisions, then bumping into a tired looking Andy Cave, followed by an ice cream with Twid, we set off with a couple of hours daylight left. Our destination being the world famous Grande Grotta with long upside down pumpfests and tufas of every shape and size everywhere. We quickly warmed up on an excellent 6a+ and then I set off up Trela, a forty metre 7a, which I found hard and just about got up. Nevermind, I thought I must be tired from the journey or perhaps Kalymnos grades weren't that easy after all! (A couple of days later I found out that I had accidently done Tufantastic, which is 7b+ and then had to return to do Trela, which was much easier!)

The climbing at Kalymnos is ideal for "on-sighting" (climbing with no knowledge of the climb at all and without falling off or working the moves followed by a "red-point" ascent later on) because most of the holds are user friendly and there are plenty of places to have a breather and size up the next sequence. I wanted to do the two classic 7c's Priapos and Aegialis (the latter was still very wet). I was absolutely made up to do both completely on-sight, despite having to "dig deep" near the top of Aegialis! I then wondered if it would be possible to on-sight an 8a? Fun de Chichunne (40m of three dimensional upside down climbing) would be the one for me, if it was possible. And it was! So, almost 24 years since red-pointing my first 8a, and 200 grade 8 climbs later I eventually managed my first 8a on-sight at the age of almost 55! Words couldn't describe the feeling. I was on a major high after that.

The rest of the holiday continued in the same way with lots of great climbing. Further high points included DNA Extension (8a+), Super Priapos (8a+) and Daniboy (8a), all done first red-point; and Zawinul Syndicate (7c+) on-sight. It was quite funny showing a group of young Brit's how to "do it" on Daniboy (they were surprised when an old, bald, short and wide giffer joined the queue and even more surprised when he was the only one to "send it" that day!). Towards the end of the holiday, however, tiredness began to show and I dropped both Tufa King Hard and Joggel and Toggel. But I was happy enough to do them first red-point.

So, we made the return journey last Saturday. Both of us were looking forward to sleeping in our own bed and having hot water whenever you need it! But, both of us were sad to be leaving climbing paradise and the many friends we'd made, particulary Louis and also Ed from Chattanooga with his warm and infectious laughter. We both hope to return some day......

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Finally, Kalymnos bound. Waiting for the ferry at Mastichari.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A windy crossing with Pierre Brizzi (far right) and Nicholas Rey.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from our studio: Telendos.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The view in another direction: Grande Grotta.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]On-sighting Fun de Chichunne (photo by Simon Rawlinson).[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fun de Chichunne, Grande Grotta (photo by Simon Rawlinson).[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunset behind Telendos from our studio.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Mike Owen's blog

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"School's Out!"
5 July 2013, 2:21 pm

Yes, we're all going on a summer holiday (to quote Cliff Richard from the 60's), although there hasn't been much to write about since our Kalymnos trip at Easter. This has been due to wet crags and a serious lack of outdoor climbing. Nobody down here can remember a winter and spring so bad. It's certainly the worst period of prolonged wet weather we've known in 14 years here. We were climbing at Val de Grimpe (the local climbing wall) even in the last weeks of June!

We only made it one day to Alex Meije's promising new crag near Escragnolles, three times to a wet Jurassic Park and twice to Mesa Verde before the end of term. Hardly enough to build on the fitness and psych after Kalymnos. Still, at last the weather has improved and the crags are dry (apart from Deverse). The only problem is it's virtually too hot to climb now! Just a slight problem!

We had an excellent soiree of Curry and real ales here to celebrate my birthday. Though we had way too much left over as some folks didn't make it. It was great to see Big Ben, Manu and baby Theo, Marie-Jo, Julien, Anna and Philip. A big thank you for coming and also for the excellent T-shirts and desserts.

Muse played in Nice during the last week of term. It was fantastic to see really talented musicians doing their stuff and the visual display was awesome, even though we were a long way from the front. They played all of The 2nd Law and super classics like Knights of Cydonia, Stockholm Syndrome, Uprising, Hysteria and so on.

Tomorrow we fly off to St Petersburg (thanks to a gift from a parent at our school). We'll be staying in a 5* hotel and be guided around the museums, operas and top restaurants. I'd really prefer to be out climbing and getting in shape but it's a chance of a lifetime, so I'm going to go along with the flow and make the most of it (and hopefully not eat too much good food!). Luckily, alcohol is not included, but everything else will be paid for!

When we return it'll be all systems grimpe (hopefully wherever it is going to be coolest). See ya.







Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Every move counts
6 August 2013, 1:14 pm





The trip to St Petersburg was a gastronomic marathon and included lots of visits to palaces, churches and museums in between extravagant restaurants. Never before have we eaten so many massive meals. The highlight was the Restaurant Palkin on our last day, where liquid nitrogen was used to provide a cloud of gas on the table prior to serving the main dish and, later on, to make fresh ice cream in front of our eyes. I had a huge slab of bull flambe'd in 30 year old Noe. This course alone cost 4400 reubles (well over 100 euros!) so it's just as well everything was free! The trip was great fun and we learnt a great deal about the history of the city, although we did feel totally pogged out by the end.



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The Restaurant Palkin, where Mougins School staff ate like kings!

It was with relief that we headed off in the Cali to get back in shape. Or that's what we intended. However, it was really too hot and sweaty in the Tarn where it was impossible to do anything harder than 7b!! Disappointed we headed back to St Leger to meet up with Nathan Hoette and Heather Trevarthan (two young, hard core travelling climbers from Australia) who we spent some time with before going to Russia. Again, the heat put a stop to realising some great routes on redpoint. I have an ever growing list of projects there in need of finishing. Mind you the high temps didn't stop Pierre Delas from sending Leviathan (8b++) or Nathan from sending Les Amateurs des grosses essaims (8c). Demoralised after spending 4 days to send a 7b+ (during which Nathan told me "not to worry - every move counts") we packed up and headed home for a couple of days.

Next destination was the Ariege, specifically the Grotte de Sabart (where we last climbed some 10 years ago) hoping to find the cave nice and cool. Alas, t'was not to be, though we did arrive late the first day. I got shut down by the heat on El Chico and Como un tigre, with sweat pouring out of every pore. It was great to meet up with legend Stevie Haston in his local "habitat", trading tales and moaning about youth (or rather the lack of it, as far as we were concerned!). He has mellowed a lot since I last saw him in Wales probably in the 80's (possibly due to his very calm French wife Laurence and all the yoga they do). He is the perfect example of motivation and what you can do if you put in the effort. He is still super strong and probably the most motivated grand dad in the world! He is currently working a project that he reckons will take 3 to 5 months and will need careful attention to diet, resting and so on. How awesome is that? I'm sure it'll take him less time than that but, as Stevie said "Sabart ain't going away anywhere soon!". I hope we get chance to meet up again some time soon. We then spent some ace, stress-free days bouldering at Orlu (which has great circuits on super grippy granite) despite the 41 degrees C.

Back home, a day at Jurassic Park in the fantastic Gorges du Loup to see just how bad things were. The usual repertoire of great routes no problem, despite feeling like they were completed in a sauna! Ok, perhaps it does help a little knowing just exactly where every knee bar is, I suppose. Still, it was just pure pleasure to go climbing without dogging on the end of the rope for a change.

Which makes me think about the point of going away trying to climb in summer. We get 2 whole months off and it is almost impossible to climb at your limit in Europe. How frustrating is that?

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]At the end of the day, Stevie Haston cooling down on Baby Sabart 7c+[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine on what we called Colin Binks' problem (5b) at Orlu.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine again at Orlu.[/td][/tr]

[/table]Of course, it doesn't really matter how hot or how sweaty it is as long as you're having lots of fun. So, there you go. Until next time!

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Hot and sweaty on El Chico (photo by Laurence Gouault Haston)[/td][/tr]

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Source: Mike Owen's blog

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"Pass the gravy, please dear" (well that's what most folks do on Sunday's).
12 August 2013, 3:45 pm

We don't do roast dinners on Sunday's. In fact we don't do roast dinners any day. Firstly, we're never at home on Sunday's to make/eat one. Secondly, they tend to be very tasty but very heavy on the fat and carbs, so not too good for you. And thirdly, they are very expensive. Frankly, we'd rather spend the money on a new pair of rock shoes, or a new rope, or diesel in the tank to get to some new mega crag.

So, we didn't get to pass the gravy. Instead we were to be found playing at one of our favourite playgrounds, in other words Jurassic Park. We have been whiling away lots of time there over the past 14 years. Nowadays it is not "a la mode" and nobody else goes there. We tend to refer to it as "our cliff" and we look after it by replacing quick draws and chains, oiling stiff in-situ karabiners, cutting down vegetation and improving the path, etc. We've also been giving Cayenne the same loving treatment as well. This last week we've been out there 4 times, just enjoying climbing for climbings sake. Neither of us has done anything that we haven't done before, but it's been wonderful just to get the body moving and doing plenty of mileage, completely stress free.

Anyway, twice this week there have been visitors at our crag! Not "tourists" but locals. Word has spread that the crags are dry! John and Sheila Stark and Pierre and Marie Von Brizzi were all there yesterday, which led to a very pleasant, friendly atmosphere at the crag with the usual banter and trading of tales. However, I have become very proud of my new status as fashion icon. I jest not, John has answered to the call and gone for the cut off jeans look, too. It has taken a long time to convince anybody else (and it has been hard having to put up with taunts from the likes of Baz and Dunning!). So, now there are two of us happily wedging our knees in wherever possible without the rigmarole of knee pads or forking out lots of dosh. Finally, very well done to Sheila for sending the difficult and slippery Homo Sapince (7b).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fashion icon Sponge Bob Square Pants![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Local prodigy "Strong Uncle John" wearing the new look![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]John warming up on the classic Homo Sapince (7b).[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Strong Uncle John on the crux.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A rare look at the camera from Scamp.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Great to be back home!
27 August 2013, 7:42 pm

You have to admit that Britain has an awful lot going for it. Honest! The real ale is the best in the world. The curries are awesome. The climbing is fantastic (weather permitting, of course). And, as we recently reminded ourselves, the indoor climbing walls are brilliant!

The plan was to combine a family visit with some climbing. Shame it poured down just before we arrived, so the crags were soaked. Ewan wanted to go to Gordale, I fancied Kilnsey. We ended up at Malham thinking it would be drier. Now that is a place I used to know very well. However, it was bloody freezing and the crag was very, very wet.  I used to cruise up many of the classics putting the draws in a long, long time ago. On a good day I could do Raindogs, Zoolook, Connect Four, New Dawn, Mescalito, Herbie and Obsession with no falls, placing all the clips (apart from Connect). That means three 8a's, two 7c+'s, one 7c and one 7b+. Of course that was only possible because I knew each route so well and having a workout day was always so much easier than trying Cry Freedom or Bat Route. Don't forget, I am pretty lazy at heart, so I have always tended to go for the easier option. Ok, this time the crag was very wet and it is over 14 years since I moved to France. The outcome was a dead cert: I got my arse kicked big time and I'd forgotten how to climb there; my fingers weren't strong enough and I found it so hard using little, polished footholds. No excuse, I was crap.

A change of plan was needed. Why bother trying to retro flash (or worse: dog then redpoint) routes from the past? Not to mention trying to cope with wet holds and polished footholds, etc. Yes, the easy option of course! Forget climbing outdoors and go inside. We came up with a list of walls to visit. However, we were so impressed with the excellent Climbing Hangar (in Liverpool) that we didn't get to the other walls. Maybe another time.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]We started climbing at 3pm. Then we did the comp, which started at 6pm. Arms finally gave up at 8.30pm! Came 15th overall (out of around 80). Photo by Steve Boote.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Mike Owen's blog

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What do Steve Boote, The Climbing Hangar and The Bells! The Bells! have in common?
1 September 2013, 3:24 pm

The climb described is John Redhead's famous scarry route The Bells! The Bells! (E7 6b) on Anglesey's North Stack Wall.

Anyone who knows Steve Boote knows that he's great fun and always good for a wind up. It started at The Climbing Hangar. He encouraged us to join him in the last bouldering comp. We'd been there 3 hours already and were pretty tired. He was fresh. However, he didn't spend his time there just climbing, he was busy having a laugh behind my back and bigging up my reputation, particularly my 3rd ascent of The Bells! The Bells! way back in 1990. As we were leaving, one of the climbing coaches (Mike) said "You're Mike Owen, didn't you do the 3rd ascent of The Bells! The Bells?" (or words similar to that). We had a nice chat about the routes on North Stack and the fact that Bootie had been spreading the word.

When we next went to The Hangar, the word had spread further (much to my surprise) and one of the young lads behind the counter said "You're Mike Owen..........." Infact he then asked for my autograph (saying it was for Mike). Well, I couldn't refuse, could I?

The story really begins even further back in time. Way back in 1983, to be a bit more precise. Andy Pollitt and I come from the same area of North Wales and got to know each other through climbing at our local crag, Craig y Forwyn, in the late 70's. In 1983, he stayed with us for 3 months as he worked with me at Black's in Liverpool. We used to talk for hours about climbing, trading tales and sharing wish lists, and so on. We'd both done The Cad that same year, so obviously we sowed the first seeds about doing The Bells! The Bells! which was first climbed by the talented and very brave John Redhead. At that time it was probably the most dangerous route in Britain. Still, Andy and I were both young and we had high aspirations.

Andy moved to Sheffield and became one of the first professional climbers, making phenomenal new routes in the Peak and back in Wales. He went on to make the coveted 2nd ascent of John's death route test piece in 1986. I have his signature on the Berghaus poster from the time in the cave downstairs (next to Phil Davidson soloing Right Wall in 1984). It took me a few years longer to realise my dream.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Berghaus poster showing Andy Pollitt making the coveted 2nd ascent of The Bells! The Bells! in 1986 (Andy's faded signature is down right from his right hand).[/td][/tr]

[/table]June 1990: Twid and I were onsighting E6's and E7's in Wales and we had both done a few 8a sport routes by then. So we were pretty fit and still young enough to be brave. We were working our way through the North Stack routes and both of us had eyes on doing The Bells! The Bells. I couldn't believe nobody had done it since Andy. I finished my degree and had time to climb before entering the teaching profession. Twid got busier with guiding and had less time. So, it was there for the taking, if only I was up to the challenge.

Graham George and I abbed down North Stack Wall on a reasonable busy day and I set of on-sight. To be honest, things didn't feel right. I remember finding the start (in common with The Cad) harder than it should have been. At the end of the first traverse I placed a small offset HB2 which was basically the only thing between me and the floor. After several half hearted attempts to commit myself to the moves leading to John's 10 year old peg I called for a toprope which, thankfully, arrived pretty quickly. I cursed myself for being a wimp as the move seemed ok, albeit with protection from above. However, I found the (wrong) sequence going rightwards from the peg desperate and covered in "grandfather's whiskers" vegetation so typical at Gogarth. It was a very empty feeling I had at the top. Ok, I'd climbed The Bells! The Bells! but hadn't actually led it on the sharp end of the rope. To tell the truth I was gutted even though I had underestimated the severity of the challenge. Still, Graham was well chuffed to follow, which he did impeccably. I returned, much better prepared, next weekend but I was still concerned about the moves right from the peg.

Saturday 9th June 1990. There was a lot of moisture in the air and the sky was grey. Still I was ready, the time had come to either realise my dream or die on the jagged boulders at the foot of the cliff. I abseiled down The Bells! to brush off the vegetation and to tie off the peg, which was in a pretty sorry state after ten years of weathering. I was shocked when I saw a line of finger incuts going directly above the peg. This was the obvious sequence to gain the second traverse where, later on again, I was shocked to find a bomber Hex 4 placement just to the left whilst doing The Hollow Man with Phil Ralph!

There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet.  It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The incuts above the peg that lead to the second traverse. This section of The Bells! is shared with The Hollow Man, a harder but safer direct version first climbed by Andy Pollitt. Elaine took this photo (from an abseil rope) of me making the 3rd ascent on 17/6/90. This photo became a DMM poster seen in shops.

At the time I was testing gear for DMM, hence the Mammut harness, Mammut ropes, La Sportiva shoes,  DMM chalk bag, nuts, quickdraws and the shoddy La Sportiva tights![/td][/tr]

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Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Imagine my surprise.
13 September 2013, 4:24 pm

Imagine my surprise.

You see, there I was dozing in bed one Sunday morning, back in late 1998, and Elaine shrieked "I know what we can do" and sat up full of enthusiasm. Obviously, that put a smile of optimism on my face, but then she announced that she had a plan. "Oh" said I. As the plan was explained, I sat up and nodded along in agreement.

But it was a brilliant plan! Put simply, it was a ticket to another life. A life far removed from the dismal wet, cold weather and an end to teaching in Britain. It involved staying in Antibes over Christmas and buying a caravan. Said caravan would be rented out and joined by a second caravan, then a third, and so on. But, it would take time. After perhaps five years, it would be possible to move down to the sunny south of France and live in one of them. Voila!

Ok, we came out with Eddie and Mandy and discovered La Turbie, Castillon and Le Gorges du Loup. Not surprisingly, we fell in love with the place (despite finding the climbing grades quite tough). We bought our first caravan that Christmas and the second the following Easter, both in a lovely campsite in Pont du Loup, with a spectacular view of Le Bar sur Loup, Gourdon and the Gorge.

After returning home from our Easter trip, it rained for days. This was too much for my poor dear wife. Eventually, she couldn't stand it any longer. She announced: "F... waiting five years, let's go this year!" I was stunned, as my very sensible wife is not normally a person to make hasty decisions. I didn't hesitate of course. Well, who would? I quickly agreed with her, before she changed her mind!

Amazingly, we sold our house very quickly and quit our jobs. I had it all planned out in my mind: move out, live in a caravan and go climbing, then climbing the next day and the day after......... Heaven!

And then I got a job and I didn't get to go climbing every day. And Elaine also got work.

We sold the two caravans, moved into an apartment in Le Bar sur Loup and bought our house within 18 months of arriving in France. But it's not been so bad. We chose a great place to live, the weather is fantastic, the scenery amazing and we get to climb all year round. The climbing is brilliant.

Here are some tasters from this week:

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin on a 7c+ at St Cezaire[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ced on Hot Chilli Beans Volcano (8b+) at Deverse[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Kev on Hot Chilli[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The classic Deverse Satanic, 8a[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ced warming up on Mecanik (7c)[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Seb Boin on PuntX (9a)[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Franco on L'ethique du tacquet (7c+) at St Cezaire[/td][/tr]

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Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Just an obsessive, compulsive punter really.
15 September 2013, 5:52 pm

I'm just a punter really. A punter suffering from OCD and bordering on autistic, I suspect. Perhaps that explains my complete lack of interest in team games and activities, including my job where I'm happy in my classroom but loathe both the staff room and meetings. Though I do like watching football, surprisingly.

Being crap in PE at school, it is surprising to think that it was my PE teacher who got me into climbing. Although I was good enough in the gym, I can remember sitting out many rugby and football lessons, though I can't now remember why. The PE teacher was Eric Howells, who had been a very good climber. He'd done stuff like Vector in the sixties and had climbed in the Dolomites. He was still young but had packed it in as he began to settle down into ordinary life. I can remember flicking through some climbing book in the changing room, whilst most of the other kids were out in the mud and thinking that climbing looked much more like fun. Soon enough, I was hooked. My school mate John Roberts had been on a course at Plas y Brenin and could tie knots and belay. Eric Howells lent us the gear and we went out and taught ourselves how to climb on Capel Pinnacles and Idwal Slabs. Could you imagine any sensible teacher today doing such a thing? Imagine what could happen to somebodies career.

The OCD has been my best friend for the 40 years I've been climbing here, there and everywhere. You see, there have always been far better climbers than me. More talented and much stronger. However, over the years my obsessive nature has helped me remember the intricate sequences of so many climbs and by simply sticking at it I've had so much fun. Nige Hunt would say "Never go down"! In other words don't give in (especially when the going gets tough).

John and I worked our way through the grades, getting more and more confident, though John was much better than me. However, John's aspirations seemed to reach a plateau, whereas I wanted to keep on pushing, even though sometimes the outcome was a close run thing. We eventually went our own ways.

Trad climbing basically means climbing on sight without falling, as the gear is often very dodgy and a fall could be serious. However, sport climbing involves falling off lots (until you are able to link all the moves without falling), though it is safe because the gear is in situ bolts. This in turn means that you can do much harder climbs, with practice. Tim Lowe introduced me to sport climbing in 1987 at Malham. A whole new concept of dogging moves and repeated falls opened up new horizons. At that time Obsession and New Dawn involved me investing several days of effort before success was achieved. But it was a step up the ladder. Seeing people like John Dunne, Yorkie, Mick Lovatt and Ian Horrocks at work on their chosen projects was fascinating. I knew I'd done harder trad stuff, but they had the edge when it came down to redpointing. It took me a while to realise that they just stuck at it and "never went down".

However, there is a fine line between going on something that is achievable and something way beyond your ability. Though, when you start piecing together your chosen project you don't always know for sure. In March 1993, Glenn Sutcliffe, Keefe Murphy and I started working The Austrian Oak at Malham. Glenn was in the GB team at that time and very strong. He sent the route pretty quickly. Keefe got very close, but for some reason left it and eventually did it much later. I had to build a replica on my board and spent 13 very stressful days falling off before I wobbled my way to the chain! After 3 days it would have been easy to give up (and that's now the time I'm prepared to spend on a route, unless it is something special). However, I did stick at it and eventually got the job done, although I was much happier doing my next project (Predator) in only 2 days.

Since moving down here, I've taken on some hefty challenges. Memorable, lengthy sieges have seen me eventually clip the chains on Mortal Kombat and Barjoland (both 8b at Castillon). However, I invested a lot of time on Soul Sacrifice (8b, Deverse) and Souffle du Vizir (8b+, Peillon) only to never get the job done. I actually did Souffle du Vizir 3 times with only 1 fall on the pockets near the start, getting back on and going all the way to the top. Perhaps I should have lowered down and tried again. Who knows? It becomes hard for me to keep trying the same climb for too long, despite the possibility that the next go could be the one that counts.

So, it seems that being obsessive is great up to a point, but being compulsive can be a hindrance. In other words it is good sticking at it but sooner or later the desire to do something different takes over.

Well done to Pete Chadwick for sticking at getting the job done on Predator, despite falling off well above the hardest climbing several times and having to endure Eddie's comment of "You'd have to be an idiot to fall off there!". And good luck to him settling the score on The Oak. Stick at it mate and never go down!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Pete Chadwick sticking at it on Predator[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sticking at it on Mortal Kombat, a dream come true in 2005. No my left foot is not on the bolt. Photo by Phil Maurel,[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Simon Lee on the difficult start of The Austrian Oak[/td][/tr]

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Source: Mike Owen's blog

[Luke Owens]

Great post! The "don't give in" mentallity is an important one to have.

[davej]

Great blogging keep it up

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Don't mention the "K" word, thank you very much!
4 October 2013, 3:30 pm

It's about this time of year that my smug mate, Chris Craggs, posts on Facebook that he's booked his trip to Kalymnos. Now Chris is very, very lucky because he is a retired teacher (though, even luckier (jammy b.....d), he managed to get out well before retirement age!) and he can now travel around the world climbing wherever, whenever. So, around October/November he heads across to the climber's island paradise Kalymnos for a month, two months, or as long as he and Sherri fancy going for. He posted some time during the last week! Mmmmmm.

Last Saturday, at the excellent and quiet "Le Discret", Alex (also smug) Zuttre casually mentioned that he was going to Kalymnos for 2 weeks. He flies tomorrow from Milan Bergamo (closest airport to here with flights to Kos) via Ryanair for peanuts, because he can go outside school holiday time. We have a week holiday from the 26th of October, so I looked at flights from Bergamo. Elaine and I can get to Kos for less than 35 euros for both of us. The problem is that Ryanair flights finish at the end of October, so we wouldn't be able to make it back. I haven't worked up the courage (yet) to tell my fantastic boss that we've got no option but to spend the entire winter out on Kalymnos, just climbing!

Anyway, here is a special photo for you Alex. Bon grimpe!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The fantastic Aegialis (7c) at the Grande Grotta, Kalymnos. Just who in their right mind would prefer to be working?[/td][/tr]

[/table]Changing the subject (only slightly - remember I am obsessed). It's been good to go to some different crags lately. Even Fatman and Robin have made another return. They have been seen on "Oeuvre Complete" at La Turbie, secteur Jacob. This is a 50m long stamina fest with the crux right at the top. It gets a very stiff 7c+ grade, which is very frustrating when you blow it way up there! Great to do "Vent du Terre" in a day (also 7c+) at Le Discret last Saturday. The plan is to go back for "Hilti Base Jump" (8a/8a+) tomorrow. However, the forecast is for rain most of the weekend.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]You can be easily distracted whilst your mate works a 50 metre route. Fatman belayng whilst Robin tussles with "Oeuvre Complete" at secteur Jacob on Tuesday.[/td][/tr]

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When did it last rain? Correct, last Sunday, then the Sunday before that and the Sunday before that as well. Why does it always choose to rain at the weekend? Have a nice weekend everybody.

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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Climbing outdoors is my favourite waste of time.
11 October 2013, 3:49 pm

Climbing outdoors is my favourite waste of time. Some people would say that it is completely pointless; you don't "win" or improve your "best time" or "score" and everybody thinks you must be "mad" and have a "death wish"! Most people simply don't understand. I suppose I can't blame them really; F1 is utter rubbish to me. Luckily, we're all different.

Climbing is so great because you get to visit beautiful places for free; meet like-minded, calm people from all round the world; you can get mega fit and it is very relaxing for the soul. An extra bonus is the complete lack of rules and regulations that makes it the perfect antidote to normal, everyday life. Quite simply, it puts everything else into perspective (everything else is just "grains of sand"). All that mindless rushing around we do each day is the real waste of time.

Robin and I went back to La Turbie to while away Tuesday afternoon. We were psyched to hurl ourselves at the unfinished route from the week before. The weather was superb, despite the forecast. Once again the warm up from hell was desperate. Monte Queue is a very polished sand bag 6c+. Robin has it well dialled and he is taller than me, which makes the crux section easier for sure. He despatched it effortlessly, whilst I had to fight and pull out all the stops to hang on (especially as my feet shot off twice!).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin demolishing the warm up from hell![/td][/tr]

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Then it was back to the serious business of trying to finish "Oeuvre Complete" (after the pumped forearms had recovered enough). Robin should have done it. He fell off the last move, due to a dodgy barn door sequence that he had to refine. Me? Well I fell off much lower, but I did make some good progress.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin on Oeuvre Complete (he is less than half way up this 50m monster!).[/td][/tr]

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So, we left the crag with our bodies having taken another battering but we'd had another great time, even though we didn't achieve success this time round. We'll be back there again next Tuesday. Who knows, we may just pull it out the bag! That's what makes you keep going back for more.

Elaine and I had a very entertaining afternoon at Jurassic Park last Sunday. It was quite challenging doing my favourite 8a+ in a mega thunder storm! We spent Wednesday afternoon struggling with very humid conditions at Mesa Verde. But it was so much better than just staying at home or going shopping.

We didn't get to Le Discret last Saturday. I had a cold and the weather was too iffy. But we're going tomorrow to have some more fun times. Bon weekend amigos!

Source: Mike Owen's blog

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"Don't waste October"
5 November 2013, 3:32 pm

Way back in July, as we were moaning about the hot temperature, Stevie said "There's always October, don't waste October". Usually it is a great month for getting some great climbing done as the temperature is prefect.

Unfortunately this year it came and passed in a blur. It's just been a rather tricky period that has left us both really pretty tired out and we haven't been able to get much quality time on the rock.

Here are some photos from Les Pistones secteur in the Gorges du Loup.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Nico Lesage warming up on a 6a[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fabien Bartez on a 7a+[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A superb 7c[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Nico on-sighting the classic 7a+ (version longue)  not long after finger surgery. Bravo gar![/td][/tr]

[/table]We just returned from a week at St Leger, where I was hoping to settle the score on some unfinished routes. Unfortunately all the tufa routes at La Baleine were soaked. Never mind, they will still be there for another time.

Today, I accidently knocked off the handbrake whilst hoovering out the Cali, it rolled and hit the garage wall. As a result, the passenger door now needs a re-spray. Marvellous, bloody marvellous!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]"De la houle, du grain (et des essais)" a really hard 7c that took me 2 whole days!![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A Spanish climber on "Le chant de baleine", a tricky 7c+ that spits you off right at the top at least once![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]An old photo from 3 years ago showing "Le concierge et dans le parking", an ace 7c+[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tired, sore hands. That split skin in the joints is always so painful!

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Source: Mike Owen's blog