UKBouldering.com

Mike Owen's blog (Read 47132 times)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#25 Re: Mike Owen's blog
November 05, 2013, 09:58:51 pm
Quote
There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet.  It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since!

Oh my..... :ohmy:

comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#26 Loud and proud!
November 13, 2013, 06:00:39 am
Loud and proud!
12 November 2013, 1:02 pm

You'd hear a load roar as a super bike arrived at the car park at the top of Pex Hill. A tall, slim figure clad in black motor cycle leathers, would step through a gap in the railings and announce his arrival by letting out a humongous belch. Every head would turn to look at him as he nonchalantly down soloed The Dateline, a tricky 5c finger crack. Of course, I'm talkng about the legendary Phil Davidson.

On another occasion, we were walking down the main street in Llandudno, when I felt an urge to burp. I let it out loud and proud. Phil was suitably impressed, but only until I apologised to the two appalled ladies walking towards us, after which he was very un-impressed!

I first met Phil in the glorious summer of 1976. There was a heat wave that summer and water was rationed. But, more importantly, the crags in Wales were all dry and the routes were all for the taking. John Roberts, Pete White, Brian Jones and I were regulars at Humphrey's Barn in Nant Peris. We used to spend Saturday nights there after a great day's climbing and a lot of beer in The Padarn in Llanberis. Phil used to turn up with his equally talented climbing partner, Gaz Healey. We used to call them the "Psychos" because they did such outrageous climbs. Other regulars at Humphrey's were Andy Sharp and Steve Lewis from South Wales and Mike Griffiths and Sandy Dobie, like us from North Wales.

Our paths crossed many times on the crags. Phil quickly worked his way through all the classic hard routes and made a name for himself when he did the 5th ascent of Right Wall in 1977 with absolute ease. From that moment he become well known for making incredible on sight ascents and amazing solos. (When Phil soloed Right Wall, in 1984, he hadn't done it during the intervening 7 years!)

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Phil Davidson soloing Right Wall in 1984[/td][/tr]
[/table]I got to know Phil really well, when Elaine and I moved to the St Helens area in 1980. We become good friends and we climbed together for a few years. My favourite memory goes like this:

Elaine and I had just returned from a two week holiday in Corfu in 1982. That night we just happened to tune into Ron Fawcett climbing "Sardine" at Raven Tor. As soon as it was finished, the phone rang. I new instinctively that it was Phil and that he wanted to go and do "Sardine" the next day! Sure enough, it was him on the other end of the line and he confirmed my dreadful suspicion. He walked up it and I was dragged up it. He was too busy chatting away with Jerry Moffatt to notice that he lowered me (wearing shorts) into the nettles that used to be at the foot of the crag.

Between 1982 and 1984, Phil was probably one of the best climbers in the world. He was one of the first climbers to look carefully at his diet and used to eat a couple of tomatoes, whilst we'd tuck into fish and chips on the way home from the crag. Secretly, he used to do loads of sit ups, press ups and pull ups and was the most supple person I have ever known. (I wonder if he can still do the box splits or stand against a wall and touch the wall above his head with his toes on one foot?) As a result, he had an incredible physique that we all envied!

Then Phil just quit climbing when he went to I M Marsh College to become a teacher in 1984. He applied the same dedication to white water canoeing and developed a great reputation for his daring. Later on he became an accomplished saxophone player and more recently took up clay pigeon shooting of all things!

Phil did make a good comeback for a brief spell in 1990. The sport had changed in the intervening six years. Everybody was sport climbing; dogging and rehearsing moves. He ticked most of the classic 7c's and 7c+'s at Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. But he tried desperately to finish Zoolook, but kept forgetting the exact sequence necessary to achieve success.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Phil's pride and joy, a Ducati 900SS[/td][/tr]
[/table]Phil has always been into motor bikes and has been the lucky owner of all sorts over the years. His gleaming Ducati 900SS used to be kept in his parents back entrance hall until he finally got his own house. His helmet and leathers matched the black and gold on the bike. I remember the sides of his motor cycle boots were worn down from low cornering and the soles were held on with red duct tape!

Phil still skis immaculately, canoes horrendous rivers in flood, plays his sax and is sometimes seen climbing too. And he'll be doing them all loud and proud. Good on yer, mate!

Source: Mike Owen's blog


fatneck

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2896
  • Karma: +143/-3
  • Fishing Helm
#27 Re: Mike Owen's blog
November 13, 2013, 09:05:38 am
Great stuff! Thanks Mike...

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5785
  • Karma: +623/-36
#28 Re: Mike Owen's blog
November 13, 2013, 10:36:46 am
Brilliant, more like this please!

comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#29 The good news and the bad news
November 30, 2013, 06:00:43 pm
The good news and the bad news
30 November 2013, 1:25 pm

Not much happening at the moment. It's a damp and cold day here today. It should be nice and sunny again tomorrow, so we're sitting tight waiting for then. No training and not going to climb indoors either.

Here's a couple of photos of Hardin climbing at Chouchou Place last Sunday:





The bad news:

The infection in my root canal has returned with a vengeance. It probably explains why i'm so seriously tired these days. I had the confirmation from a new dentist yesterday (recommended by Marie-Jo). Tuesday next I should find out what he is going to do. He has said it needs to be taken out but there may be further complications and maybe another operation to clean it all out again.

The good news:

We asked our head for a year out. He said OK. So we're looking forward to some cool travelling and climbing next year. Brilliant! 20 years ago, we were on our last year out climbing in the USA.

Here's some photos from that trip:

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ascent of man, 7c+  1st redpoint, Virgen River Gorge in December, brrr![/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Yaak attack, Red Rocks, also in December![/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Marla's house at Smith Rocks, where we stayed for 3 weeks in September.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and TM Herbert at "The Pie Shop" in late October.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sissy Traverse (8a) took quite a bit of effort and quite a few goes to do. Red Rocks.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Aggro Monkey (8a) 1st redpoint. Smith Rocks in September.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]My favourite US crag, Jailhouse Rock. Not sure what the route is though.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Heading back to Portland from Red Rocks.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Buttermilks in November.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The legendary Smith Rocks.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A nice warm up at Red Rocks.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
I hate climbing at Christmas, it's so ....... cold! (said Elaine).
29 December 2013, 1:28 pm

We had some superb days climbing at Jurassic Park and Cayenne, in early December. The weather was amazing and very mild and the crags were bone dry. It was nice to go out and feel our bodies moving, even though we didn't do anything new. It's always good to break in new shoes on stuff you know, too.

Kirstie and Hardin finished off a couple of their projects, Well done! Seb and Cathy ventured down from the cold, further north. It was really fun to see them again, after such a long time. Amazingly, Seb was still climbing in shorts when he sent Psychopat! Cathy was more sensibly dressed when she sent La Queue du Diable. Both 8a+'s dispatched very quickly by a mega pro team! Encore, well done!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Seb Hemmery showing Psychopat whose boss. Shorts at Jurassic Park in December![/td][/tr]
[/table]

Around the same time, I finally saw another dentist about my on-going saga with my root-canal. It has finally been taken out and (fingers crossed) the infection is finished. I've been feeling so much better ever since.

However, the day before the Christmas holidays started, the rain clouds rolled in and I also picked up a bad cold. Perfect timing for both!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ashley Lewis on Viatge a Venus, 7a, at Montgrony. Photo by Rich Kirby.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

We decided to go to Montgrony, just inside Spain. Rich Kirby had recently been and his photos looked ace. So, we were hooked. The first two days was very promising (even with a runny nose and constant coughing) with blue skies and plenty of sun. Then we had 3 days of rain and snow, accompanied with very cold temps, during which we were stuck inside the camper van. Still, we managed to cook a fab meal on Christmas Day. We managed one more day of sun, before giving up yesterday when it turned out cloudy and very cold again. We drove home through the rain. There are some great looking routes to go back there for, especially Gaia and Callabruix (Aromes de Montgrony looks fantastic but I can tell it also looks well gnarly!). Still, it was nice to do some climbing up to 7c.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Home made mince pies![/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Christmas Day lunch washed down with champagne.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]One of the best doss spots ever? Right under the crag in the sun and quiet too.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Back home and the sun is out. Artbloc tomorrow!

Source: Mike Owen's blog


account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#31 Re: Mike Owen's blog
December 29, 2013, 07:11:27 pm
At last a blog I enjoy reading  :coffee:
The older I get the more I respect and admire people who are still pushing on, keep it up guys.

comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#32 Heart Of The Sunrise
January 01, 2014, 06:00:47 pm
Heart Of The Sunrise
1 January 2014, 3:03 pm

We don't tend to watch TV here. Instead, most of the time we have the stereo hard drive playing on random, whilst reading or whatever. Last night, a particular song played and it took me way, way back in time almost forty years. The song was "Heart of the Sunrise" by Yes.

Inevitably, I grew up listening to my parents musical tastes, particularly The Seekers, Val Doonican and musical soundtracks, such as South Pacific (I wanted to meet a girl who wore a hoola hoola skirt!). The Beatles happened and I was completely oblivious. However, as teenage loomed ever closer I began to take more interest in the sounds out there. In 1971, with some birthday money, I bought four singles. They were "My Sweet Lord" (George Harrison), "The Resurrection Shuffle" (Aston, Gardner and Dyke), "Give Me Just A Little More Time" (Chairman of the Board) and "Sugar, Sugar" (Saccharin version). They were all so different, but all classics in the Top 30 at that time.

For the next three years, I became hooked on the songs by T Rex, Slade, The Sweet and Gary Glitter. Yes, I was into pop music, big time. Then something amazing happened. In the spring of  1974, a boy in my class (called Hayden Davies) lent me an album to take home and listen to. The album was called "Fragile" by a band called Yes. I'd never heard of them. Apparently, they were into something weird called "Progressive Rock", whatever that was. The album had been around for a couple of years already (according to the sleeve notes, it was released on 4th January 1972).

I waited until there was nobody in the house (I didn't want my sisters laughing at my music) and put the LP on the turn table and settled down. After the first few chords of the first track (Roundabout), I knew that the music was good, very good indeed. I was stunned by just how special the whole album was. The quality of the musicianship was of such a high level, compared to what I was used to hearing and the lyrics seemed to hint towards folklore and nature. I was also fascinated by the album cover as well. It opened up, like a book and inside there were the lyrics to read and sing along with. Also, there was a colour booklet with photos of the five band members and (significantly, because I'd just started rock climbing) there was a painting of a climber scaling a sheer cliff on the side of a pinnacle.

I became a big fan of Yes, particularly the line up of Anderson, Howe, Brufford, Squire and Wakeman. I was gutted, in 1982, when our Vauxhall Viva was broken into in a Liverpool car park and the stereo and cassette tapes were stolen (including a pre-recorded cassette of Fragile). I still have my vinyl copy and of course the CD, too. Fragile is still one of my favourite albums and Roundabout, Heart of the Sunrise and South Side of the Sky are still wonderful songs that evoke memories of blissful teenage summers.





Source: Mike Owen's blog


Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
#33 Re: Mike Owen's blog
January 02, 2014, 08:29:35 am
Yes are one of my favorite bands. One of the best experiances of my life was seeing "South Side of the Sky" played live! The old LP's were great, I've got most of Yes's and the artwork by Roger Dean is brilliant. They mean so much more than some rubbish CD case.

It's a shame Jon Anderson isn't with them anymore his solo tours are great though. A few years ago now I seen him play at The Robbin 2 in Wolverhampton, it was just him, an acoustic and a room with no more then 100 people in, amazing!

comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#34 Wild West Tour 1993, Part 1
January 12, 2014, 12:00:42 am
Wild West Tour 1993, Part 1
11 January 2014, 9:01 pm

Planning to take a year off work is really exciting, despite the other things going on in our life at the moment. It reminds me of the last time we took time out 20 years ago....

We flew out of Manchester the same day our (ex) colleagues went back to school after the summer hols. The cross Atlantic flight was a novelty for us as we'd not been in a plane for more than a couple of hours before. We made the most of the free Jack Daniels, the air hostess even gave us the left over bottles for the internal flights! We eventually arrived in "Portland Oregon" (as said by Jack Nicholson in The Shining) having traveled via Chicago and Dallas to be picked up by Pete Kirton (the one from Ellesmere Port!) and driven back to his flat in downtown Portland. Jet lagged, we struggled with the heat and the city noise for a couple of days whilst Pete and Sandra worked long hours at Geraldi's deli.

We bought a Chevrolet for 600$ and set off for the vertical, crimpy ryolite walls of Smith Rock, armed with Glenn Sutcliffe's topo and memories of Ian Horrock's superb photos. Pete had put us in touch with a non-climbing friend of his (called Marla Gibson) who lived opposite the car park at Smith. It seemed that we'd be able to camp in her extensive garden. However, when we got there she insisted we stay in her house. The next day, she announced she was heading off on a rodeo for a couple of weeks and was wondering if we'd mind looking after her house! But we'd have to water the plants, feed the horses, feed the cats, etc. We couldn't believe our luck. After 2 weeks, Marla phoned up asking if it was OK if she stayed another week!!! We were amazed at her generosity and her trust.

September proved to be a bit too warm for Smith, but we were more than happy to get stuck into lots of new climbing. We were well prepared, having been Pex Hill regulars for many years, and had 3 fantastic weeks ticking the classics, eg. Darkness At Noon, Last Waltz, Chain Reaction, Aggro Monkey, Churning In The Wake, Kings Of Rap, Rude Boys and many more. We also visited a new area of cliffs called the Lava Tubes, with Midway/Prime Minister being a wild, steep 5.13a (7c+).

At the beginning of October, we headed on to the granite cliffs of City Of Rocks in Idaho. We were expecting plenty of rednecks (having seen the Clint eatswood film "Thunderbolt and Lightfoot") and we weren't disappointed! It seemed weird putting the tent up after being at Marla's. Still, it was nice camping near the crags, even if the grades were tough. Unfortunately, it wasn't possible to climb on The Dolphin at that time so we settled down to ticking lots of classics between 5.11 and 5.13a (6b to 7c+).

After 4 days without a shower we were stinking and drove to the nearest civilisation (a shop at a road junction about 15 miles away). We both took it in turns to keep watch whilst we used the shower.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Smith Rocks seen from the parking lot in front of Marla's house.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Smith Rocks

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunshine Dihedral, To Bolt Or Not To Be, 5.14a  (up the smooth wall) and Last Waltz, 5.12c (up the arete left again).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Keefe Murphy on Vicious Fish (Churning in the Wake is the easier bottom part at 5.13a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]  

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Aggro Monkey, a soft, but great 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ligthning over Elephant Rock, City of Rocks, Idaho.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Energizer, 5.13 a at City of Rocks, Idaho.[/td][/tr]
[/table]We then headed on east towards Salt Lake City for the next chapter of our wild west tour.

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#35 Wild West Tour, 1993 Part 2
January 20, 2014, 12:00:28 am
Wild West Tour, 1993 Part 2
19 January 2014, 7:51 pm

Q. What to do when it's raining heavily for the fourth consecutive day?

A. Go back to bed after a late breakfast, get up at 3.30 pm, take Scamp out for a long (wet) walk and then try and write a blog post. Simple as that.

What? No climbing today? Our bodies are aching all over after a great session at Val de Grimpe yesterday (along with just about all the other climbers down here - boy it was busy, but good fun). Anyway, spare time is good to do some thinking and planning for the future, i.e. the future after we finish work at the end of next June. And also good to think back to what we were doing in Salt Lake City, over 20 years ago.

In early 1990, I was facing a dilemma. I had to make a difficult-ish decision. For the past 2 years, I'd been testing gear for Lowe Alpine. I was one of a small team, which included Dougie Hall, Glenn Sutcliffe, John Hartley and was coordinated by Tony Ryan. I felt very privileged to have been asked to join the team and enjoyed using my knowledge of the outdoor trade to good effect. We had Beal ropes, Vertical shoes and Lowe Alpine sacks and jackets to test. It was great fun. Then I was approached by DMM, hence the dilemma. I didn't like the idea of turning my back on Lowe Alpine, but to go with DMM was too good an opportunity to turn down, as it meant access to La Sportiva shoes, Mammut ropes and all the cutting edge DMM gear at the time such as Truclip's, Mamba's and so on. Such fabulous gear to test and to be part of such an innovative company. It was amazing to listen to Fred Hall's ideas for the next new piece of kit and to liaise with witty and super cool dude, Paul Simpkiss.

So, what does this have to do with our US road trip? Just be patient, OK?

After seeing "Masters of Stone" at Pete Kirton's in Portland, we had more of an idea where we wanted to go to. One of the must go to places was American Fork, near SLC. We remembered Paul Simpkiss' tales about the guy who imported DMM stuff into the US, Steve Petro. Paul described him as a really cool dude and an ace climber and told us we should try and meet up with him and his then-partner (now wife), ace climber Lisa Gnade. Whilst at Smith Rock, we met somebody who told us that John Barstow (a talented climbing photographer) was a neighbour and all we'd have to do was look him up in the phone directory when we got there.

It was way past bed time when we finally ended up on Steve and Lisa's doorstep (at that time they were both teaching as well). John mischievously left us to it, after making brief introductions. Steve was very unimpressed and looked very mean standing in his boxers, he had the most impressive six pack and lats I'd ever seen (however, the effect was somewhat cancelled out by an enormous out of place handle bar moustache). It was turning into an embarrassing stand off and we were making our apologies and about to leave, when Lisa appeared and told Steve to let us in. Steve capitulated immediately and we crossed the threshold.

That was the start of the next part of our amazing trip. We stayed for over 2 weeks and did some great climbing at AF. Steve and Lisa were wonderful hosts and pointed us at the best routes and as the days passed we became great friends. Steve adopted me as his "little brother"! He also tried to help me cope with a particularly bad bout of farting by prescribing something called "Beano". Needless to say it had no effect, if anything it seemed to make me worse (or better?).

October wasn't the best time to be at AF, it was pretty cold and damp in fact. Still, it was nice for us to send some of the hard routes in Hell Cave, including "Melting" (5.13a) and "Burning" (5.13b) and countless other classics such as "License to Thrill" (5.11c) and "The Abyss" (5,12c). Soon we were ready to head west, past the Great Salt Lake towards the sun. We managed to grab a couple of good routes at Donner Summit on the way, including "Warp Factor" (the 5.13a first part of the bouldery "Steep Climb Named Desire"). Then we headed south towards TM Herbert's place and the prospect of steep climbing at Cave Rock, above Lake Tahoe in Nevada.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]My big brother, Steve Petro about to make a trip to Hell.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine with Lisa Gnade at the Hell Cave, AF.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Lisa on "Wizards", 5.13c (8a+).[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Steve crushing "Hell", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A more recent photo of "Burning", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]



Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#36 Wild West Tour 1993, Part 2
January 26, 2014, 12:00:29 pm
Wild West Tour 1993, Part 2
19 January 2014, 7:51 pm

Q. What to do when it's raining heavily for the fourth consecutive day?

A. Go back to bed after a late breakfast, get up at 3.30 pm, take Scamp out for a long (wet) walk and then try and write a blog post. Simple as that.

What? No climbing today? Our bodies are aching all over after a great session at Val de Grimpe yesterday (along with just about all the other climbers down here - boy it was busy, but good fun). Anyway, spare time is good to do some thinking and planning for the future, i.e. the future after we finish work at the end of next June. And also good to think back to what we were doing in Salt Lake City, over 20 years ago.

In early 1990, I was facing a dilemma. I had to make a difficult-ish decision. For the past 2 years, I'd been testing gear for Lowe Alpine. I was one of a small team, which included Dougie Hall, Glenn Sutcliffe, John Hartley and was coordinated by Tony Ryan. I felt very privileged to have been asked to join the team and enjoyed using my knowledge of the outdoor trade to good effect. We had Beal ropes, Vertical shoes and Lowe Alpine sacks and jackets to test. It was great fun. Then I was approached by DMM, hence the dilemma. I didn't like the idea of turning my back on Lowe Alpine, but to go with DMM was too good an opportunity to turn down, as it meant access to La Sportiva shoes, Mammut ropes and all the cutting edge DMM gear at the time such as Truclips, Mambas and Wallnuts. Such fabulous gear to test and to be part of such an innovative company. It was amazing to listen to Fred Hall's ideas for the next new piece of kit and to liaise with witty and super cool dude, Paul Simkiss.

So, what does this have to do with our US road trip? Just be patient, OK?

After seeing "Masters of Stone" at Pete Kirton's in Portland, we had more of an idea where we wanted to go on our road trip. One of the must-go places was American Fork Canyon, near SLC. We remembered Paul's tales about the guy who imported DMM stuff into the US, Steve Petro. Paul described him as a really cool dude and an ace climber and told us we should try and meet up with him and his then-partner (now wife), ace climber Lisa Gnade. Whilst at Smith Rock, we met somebody who told us that John Barstow (a really talented climbing photographer) was a neighbour and all we'd have to do was look him up in the phone directory when we got there.

It was way past bed time when we finally ended up on Steve and Lisa's doorstep (at that time they were both teaching as well as setting up their business, called Excalibur, and they had to be at school the following day). John mischievously left us to it, after making brief introductions. Steve was very unimpressed and looked very mean standing in his boxers, he had the most impressive six pack and lats I'd ever seen (however, the effect was somewhat cancelled out by an enormous out of place handle bar moustache). It was turning into an embarrassing stand off and we were making our apologies and about to leave, when Lisa appeared and told Steve to let us in. Steve capitulated immediately and we crossed the threshold.

That was the start of the next part of our amazing trip. We stayed for over 2 weeks and did some great climbing at AF. Steve and Lisa were wonderful hosts and pointed us at the best routes and as the days passed we became great friends. Steve adopted me as his "little brother"! He also tried to help me cope with a particularly bad bout of farting by prescribing something called "Beano". Needless to say it had no effect, if anything it seemed to make me worse.

October wasn't the best time to be at AF, it was pretty cold and damp infact. Still, it was nice for us to send some of the hard routes in the Hell Cave, including "Melting" (5.13a) and "Burning" (5.13b) and countless other classics such as "License to Thrill" (5.11c) and "The Abyss" (5,12c). Soon we were ready to head west, past the Great Salt Lake towards the sun. We headed towards TM Herbert's place in Gardnerville, in Nevada, and the prospect of steep climbing at Cave Rock above Lake Tahoe and the next chapter in our wild west adventure.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]My big brother, Steve Petro about to make a trip to Hell.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Lisa thawing out in the sun at the Hell Cave, AF.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Lisa cruising "Wizards", 5.13c (8a+).[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Steve crushing "Hell", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A more recent photo of "Burning", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]



Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#37 Wild West Tour 1993, Part 3
January 26, 2014, 06:00:31 pm
Wild West Tour 1993, Part 3
26 January 2014, 1:21 pm

Plans are going well regarding our coming year travelling sans travail. We're close to booking our tickets for China in October and we're also going to visit Misja Pec (Slovenia) and the Amalfi coast (south of Naples, Italy). We're psyched. But, we can't be bothered to go climbing outdoors here! The weather is beautiful this weekend, but anything on tufas is very wet after the recent monsoon. Still, it's good to go bouldering indoors.

OK, so back to 1993 and TM Herbert.....

We met Tom and Sondra Herbert at Malham in early 1993. They stayed with us a while in sunny St Helens. Tom told us lots of tales about his legendary father and the climbing at Cave Rock and Yosemite. He said we'd have to go stay with his dad. So, that's exactly what we did after leaving SLC.

TM was one of the early pioneers of big wall climbing in Yosemite and made the first ascent of  Muir Wall with Yvon Chouinard in 1965. It was the first time a new route on El Cap was climbed by a team of two in a single push, i.e. without using siege techniques, fixing ropes and descending to the Valley for a rest. Needless to say, we were in awe of meeting such a legend.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]TM Herbert during the 1st ascent of Salathe Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, 1962[/td][/tr]
[/table]

TM proved to be an amazingly funny and entertaining host, completely obsessed with The Beatles, partial to a beer and still mad keen on climbing. When we woke up on the first day, he announced that we were going to go to the pie shop. We naturally assumed he was talking about going to eat some pies. So, patiently (because we were keen to get out climbing) we went along with his idea. Imagine our surprise, to find the The Pie Shop was actually a cliff and we didn't have to eat any pies after all! TM took us up Crepe's Corner (a 5.7) and then True Grip (a tricky 5.10b). It was fantastic to see how well he climbed and to listen to his constant banter at the same time. Later on he suspected we were up for harder stuff and took us to Cave Rock.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and TM at "The Pie Shop"![/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]TM leading True Grip[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Anybody who has watched "Masters of Stone" will have seen Dan Osman on and off "Slayer" (5.14a or 8b+). He takes some amazing whippers for the camera. To be honest, we were a bit disappointed how small the crag really was. It is high enough but not very wide, so there aren't loads of routes there. Plus, it's right above the road and the road goes through a massive tunnel in the cliff. Still, there was enough to keep us occupied for a couple of weeks. I even bought my first pair of knee pads (as recommended by Tom for the essential knee bars). We ticked some ace routes: Asylum (12a), Port of Entry (12a), Fire in the Hole/Caveman (12b), Bat out of Hell (12c), Concave (12d), Pumping Andesite (13a), Shut up and Climb, Geek (13a), Caveman Direct (13a), Psycho Monkey (13b), Psycho Lord (13b) and Phantom Lord (13c).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dan Osman on Slayer on the cover of Masters of Stone[/td][/tr]
[/table]

During our time there, we had the cliff completely to ourselves. We soon found out why. Apparently, Cave Rock is sacred to the local indigenous indiens. They were in the process of getting climbing officially banned. We were photographed and interviewed by a reporter from the Lake Tahoe Tribune and made it onto the front and back covers! Bizarrely the indiens didn't seem to have a problem with the road and tunnel going through their monument! Just goes to show that blaming climbers is always the easy option. Sadly, you can't go climbing there anymore.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Climbers getting a bad press in the Lake Tahoe Tribune[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Before we left, TM took us for our first trip to Yosemite. He led us up the classics Moby Dick (5.9) and Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) at the base of El Cap. We were gob-smacked! TM was awesome when it came to thrutching up off-widths, whereas we got hideously pumped! Still, it is important to work on your weak points! Elaine published an excellent profile of TM in High (No. 151 in June 1995).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]TM leading Moby Dick[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]TM leading Sacherer Cracker[/td][/tr]
[/table]

We also got a day in at Big Chief to do the 13a featured in Masters of Stone called All Guns Blazing. Then we headed to Donner Summit to do another 13a featured in the video called Warp Factor. We were headed for Sonora, to stay with Tom and Sondra and sample the mega steep Jailhouse Rock and just maybe do a big wall at Yosemite.........

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#38 "It's raining again!"
February 04, 2014, 06:00:37 pm
"It's raining again!"
4 February 2014, 5:21 pm

January this year turned out to be a first, a first since moving here in 1999. This was the first year that we didn't climb outside in January. Not once. What's happening? I am sick of this flippin' rain. Enough is enough.

The winters used to be fantastic down here. The sky was always so much clearer than in summer and the weather would be very settled, after a period of heavy rain around the end of October. Usually, there wasn't any rain then until around the end of March.

All the local climbers down here would be out each weekend working and sending projects at Peillon Grotte and Castillon. Also, it was possible to climb at Deverse and even at Jurassic Park and Cayenne (which used to stay dry in winter) if you didn't mind the cold. Now, each year seems to be wetter than the previous one and the only sensible option seems to be climbing indoors. The good news is that we'll be in Liverpool for a session at The Climbing Hangar at the end of Feb! Something to look forward to...

Shame Elaine has aggravated her finger. She had been making great progress and getting steadily stronger down the wall. She has had a 2 week layoff and will try it out again tomorrow. Hope all goes well.

Meanwhile, we're still making plans for our year out. But, I'm not in the mood for writing anymore about our Wild West Tour at the moment.

It is always great to hear from old friends. Andy Pollitt got in touch and we've been trading tales since the last time we were together a long, long time ago! I'm doing my best to get him to put on a pair of rock shoes again. Watch this space.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Trying hard downstairs in the cave last Sunday![/td][/tr]
[/table]



Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#39 Wild West Tour 1993, Part 4
February 18, 2014, 06:00:27 pm
Wild West Tour 1993, Part 4
18 February 2014, 5:57 pm

There was me moaning about the weather again. Erm, it's not been as bad as what my friends back in Britain have been putting up with, so I promise never to mention the weather down here ever again. Honest!

Still not mustered the enthusiasm for venturing outside, as most crags are still very wet. Been trying hard indoors though. Half term is fast approaching, so we'll make it outside during the next week for sure.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Hauling my ass up a tough red problem at Val de Grimpe[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Back to our first US trip. Now, where were we?

After climbing at Smith, AF and Cave Rock we were pretty fit and really chomping at the bit. We were ready for plenty of upside down action at Tom Herbert's very own crag, Jailhouse Rock (he'd equipped many of the routes and lived very close by in Sonora). Jibe had already told us it was a mega crag. At first sight, it doesn't look much cop. But once you leave the ground the climbing is fantastic and really funky. The rock is basalt and very steep (after the initial vertical columns at the start of each route). It really helps if you can knee bar, if not the routes are much harder.

It was the perfect crag for me and I got most of the routes on-sight or first red point. Most memorable were: Cell Block (13a), Soap on a Rope (12d), Fugitive (13a), Birdman (13c) and Jailbait (13c). Elaine didn't take to the style of climbing, as she wasn't used to using trickery with her knees.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Soap on a Rope (5.12d) at Jaihouse Rock[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Fugitive (5.13a) at Jailhouse Rock[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Whilst staying at Tom and Sondra's they convinced us to return to Yosemite for a few days. We ticked some of the 70's classics on the Cookie Cliff, such as Wheat Thin and Butterballs in the November sun. At Camp Four, there were quite a few Brits either there to boulder or to try a big wall. Despite not having any trad gear and no big wall stuff at all, I began seriously thinking about doing The Nose on El Cap. It would be too much to put Elaine through, so I asked what people were planning. It seemed that Sean Myles and I were going to go for a one day ascent. However, I backed out preferring a more leisurely multiday ascent. Dave Hassall was also looking for somebody to team up with for the same kind of deal. We'd never met each other before and had no idea whether we could depend on each other to get out of a bad situation. Still we were game on but the weather forecast was promising snow in just four days! We'd really have to get shifting....

That day I scrounged loads of nuts and cams and even swapped my sleeping bag for TM's light weight one. Dave and I decided to really cut down on weight to hopefully get us to the top before the storm arrived. We packed only 8 plastic bottles of water, lots of dried fruit, biscuits and chocolate, no water proofs or duvets. The only thing I could provide was a 70m rope from DMM, which would allow us to link 2 pitches together and move more quickly.

Very early on Sunday 7th November, Elaine dropped us off and we struggled up to the base of El Cap with all the gear. Dave set off up the first pitch. It seemed surreal to be starting a big wall after all those years of reading about the history of Yosemite. I think we were both as anxious as each other but neither of us wanted to show it. While I jugged up the rope, Dave pulled the sacks up using a pulley. We swapped leads and I set of up the second pitch. Soon enough we were sat on Sickle Ledge after dispensing with the first tricky bit. Amazingly, the pine trees looked very small from there but the top looked just as far as before.

It was my task to get established in the Stoveleg Cracks. This involved climbing about 10 metres above Dave and then descending a few metres from a bolt. Then I had to start running backwards and forwards across the rock face to try and reach the start of the crack. It provided us with loads of entertainment as the pendulums got bigger and bigger and also involved hurdling a corner too! Eventually, knackered and pretty gripped I got to the crack, stuffed a Friend in and clipped the haul rope in to avoid rope drag and then climbed on-wards and upwards, passing the occasional jammed in big cam. That pitch was so spooky and run out and I was glad to get to the safety of the next belay. The Stovelegs went on and on, Dave and I were both fading as we got to Dolt Tower and the sun was beginning to disappear, but we decided to press on to the luxurious El Cap Tower for our first bivi. It was an amazing sight to see all the lights in the Valley so far below, whilst we smoked some excellent grass that Dave had taken along specially for the occasion. We also noticed lights from a team on Salathe Wall and another on Zodiac. It was incredible to think that there were only three teams on El Cap at that time. We were amazed at our luck. The route was free and there was nobody else to slow us down; we'd climbed a long way that day and the weather was perfect, warm enough to climb in a vest during the day and ok with a sweat shirt and fleece at the bivi.





[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Bivi at El Cap Tower and about to set off the morning after[/td][/tr]
[/table]

We were up early next morning keen to carry on with the show. I ran Texas Flake and Boot Flake out in one pitch, just getting to the belay on the rope stretch. Dave passed The King Swing over to me (perhaps because of my successful pendulum the day before). This involved being lowered from the belay down the left side of the huge Boot Flake and running backwards and forwards to eventually reach a peg. The rope was clipped in and then Dave lowered me some more and then I started running back and forth again (with the peg as the new pendulum point) until it was possible to reach a crack way left, then up to a belay. Dave had a less strenuous diagonal abseil down to my belay. After the King Swing we were totally committed, but we were happy and really focused on the climbing.

Dave got the most famous and photogenic pitch on the route: The Great Roof. He made it look so easy, he did a fantastic job without any fuss. I was surprised how dodgy the in-situ gear whilst going across to his super exposed belay on the lip of the roof. I led through up The Pancake Flake, which provided a really nice way to calm the nerves back down, whilst Dave could soak up the horrendous exposure for a while longer. We spent that night at Camp Five, which was pretty uncomfortable and there were loads of centipedes crawling everywhere.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave leading the Great Roof pitch[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Next morning we were both stiff and tired. We were also near the end of our food and water, which meant we had to top out that day or our fun would turn into an epic! The trees looked like match sticks but the top still looked a very, very long way above us still. We were also concerned about the storm, which would arrive the next day. We really had to finish that day, as we probably wouldn't have survived a forced bivi without warm clothing or waterproofs, let alone without any food or water.

We set off, almost oblivious of the fantastic climbing, however the exposure was always there to remind us to keep concentrating. Lots of people had lost their lives on those final pitches over the years, we didn't want to join the long list of casualties. We continued alternating leads and soaking up the exposure, encouraging each other on-wards and upwards. We made good time and the pitches passed by without incident. All too soon, Dave led the last pitch over the final overhang and I jugged up the rope (hoping it wasn't rubbing on the lip) to find him belayed to a pine tree at the top of an easy slab. We'd made it, at last there was no more rock above us and we could relax for a short while. The time was around 2pm.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]My mate Craig Entwhistle on a recent ascent of The Nose. Lots of exposure from the Changing Corners pitch high up the climb.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

We were two different blokes to the ones who set off a couple of days earlier, but we were both really very happy too. We had had a fantastic time climbing together. During the climb, we both felt confident in each other and we made a great team, determined to see the job done but also keen to have as much fun along the way as well. We finished our last bits of food and water and set off down the East Ledges descent. Tom had briefed me about an in-situ rope down the final 500 foot wall. After a very spooky abb down the stretchy rope we were at the foot of El Cap and stumbling back down through the forest to the road in the dark.

Amazingly, Elaine arrived in the car to take us back to Camp Four. She'd had a fun time watching our progress and hanging out with Sean, Ben Moon, Gary Ryan and others bouldering. But, she'd had to cope with much colder temps at night in the valley than us and was keen to get back to Tom and Sondra's in Sonora. Dave was mad for a celebratory beer but I had to leave him to go with the boss. I was sad to leave my new friend behind. Unfortunately, our paths haven't crossed since. But, we keep in touch, thanks to Facebook!

It did snow the next day in Yosemite. We spent some more days clipping bolts at Jailhouse. Then, we returned to the Valley one more time. Elaine had missed out on the big wall experience, so we did the East Buttress route on a very crisp day with snow on the ground and the waterfalls all frozen up. We had a fantastic day leading alternately. Again, we had to descend via the East Ledges abseil, which gave Elaine a good indication of the serious side of climbing on El Cap. It put a big smile on her face.



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The happy couple after doing the East Buttress[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#40 All good on the beautiful Cote d'Azur
March 13, 2014, 12:01:26 am
All good on the beautiful Cote d'Azur
12 March 2014, 7:25 pm

Weather on the Cote d'Azur is back to normal, in other words dry, sunny and the colours and light are amazing right now. Consequently, the crags are drying out (slowly for the crags with tufas) and the cave dwellers from Art-Bloc and Val de Grimpe have been getting outdoors to play. Yippee, all is good fun and everybody is smiling!

Mesa Verde in the Gorges du Loup and the Gorges du Blavet crags are proving very popular, as they are very quick drying.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Scamp at Mesa Verde[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Hardin and Kirsty getting ready to warm up in the sun at Mesa Verde[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Manu about to warm up on Pas de Bras, Pas de Chocolat belayed by Diane[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Axel warms up in trainers! (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Marie-Jo wearing great colours on her 7b+ project (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Julien wears normal blokes colours on the same 7b+ (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Baldy on Projet PHP, 7b+ at Mesa Verde (photo by Hardin Pardede)[/td][/tr]
[/table]A day at Blavet with friends:

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Olivier Germain warming up on La Coupe est Pleine, 6b+ (so hard to get good photos at Blavet)[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fred Odo warming up on a classic 6c[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Olivier belaying Fred[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fred starting up Poupoune, 7c+[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sophie sending her first 7a, Los Olvidados, bravo et chapeau![/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fred higher on Poupoune[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Axel sending an 8b, bravo gar![/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A much better shot of Felix Coxwell on Poupoune, taken by Alex Zuttre[/td][/tr]
[/table]Finally, I was well chuffed to do Gaia (2nd go) at Montgrony, when we had a quick 4 day visit there during the February holiday. I'd always wanted to do this classic 7c+ after seeing an ace photo in Roc n Wall from 1998. Anant amb croses (7c) was also great fun, though I had to red point it as I blew the on-sight. However, Calabruix (8a/8a+) was too hard and needs another visit, probably during our year out.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The photo from Roc n Wall showing Laurent Triay climbing Gaia at Montgrony[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#41 Yes, yes, yes!
March 18, 2014, 12:01:58 am
Yes, yes, yes!
17 March 2014, 8:07 pm

Not long after moving down here, we bumped into Pete and Lynn Cumming. They had done the same as us. Originally from the Bristol area, they had moved to the Cote d'Azur several years before us and were enjoying the lifestyle, which included lots of sun, wine and of course great climbing.

I knew Pete, but only by name, because he had taken a very long groundfall whilst trying to make an on-sight ascent of a climb I was involved in putting up in Pembroke. He was also very well known for hard ascents at Malham and had put in a lot of effort trying to do Mark Leach's Cry Freedom. I think we actually first met each other at la Grotte du Peillon (Pete was climbing with Philippe Gatta). Then we bumped into each other at the Gorges du Blavet.

I remember very clearly Pete telling me that he'd tried Poupoune, which is a frightening looking 7c+ at Blavet. He said it was really very hard for the grade and very run out. Understandably, I have avoided this climb for the fourteen years since that conversation took place and Pete and Lynn have long since moved back to Bristol! That is, until last week, when I saw an ace photo of Alex Zuttre's posted on Facebook, showing another expat Brit living down here called Felix Coxwell. When I saw that photo I just had to go and find out how scary that climb was. All of a sudden I wanted it badly! How strange is that?

The toil and trouble started (not very promisingly) when I went there with Axel, Olivier, Fred and Sophie last Tuesday. The moves were hard, reachy, technical, on small holds and, yes, very run out in places. It seemed really hard, especially near the top when you'd be really tired. I was falling off again on Saturday, when I went with Marie-Jo and Julien. I actually thought at that point that I couldn't do it, due to a lack of reach on the crux at the top, that is if I was even able to link it together all the way up to there.

However, yesterday Fred Oddo and I both managed to link together all the tenuous moves to clip the chain on our second runs! Fred typically cruised it in fine French style, whereas I had to fight really hard in the bull dog spirit all the way (just ask Sheila Stark, she'll agree). Still, we were both very happy chappies leaving the crag, despite spending 3 days on a 7c+. To cap it all Liverpool beat Man U at Old Trafford finishing off a truly ace day.

What's next? There's a very nice looking 8a just to the left.....

However, it was quite a sad day, too. It was the first time I've gone out climbing without taking Scamp. She was absolutely knackered after Saturday and could hardly walk (she is now eleven and a half years old and she's slowing down). However, she's had two rest days and she's looking good for tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sweety Pie, 6a+ warm up.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Setting the draws on Saturday on Poupoune[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]That great photo of Alex Zuttre's again, thanks mate![/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp watches whilst I struggle (thanks to Marie-Jo Centofanti / Voyages a la Verticale for the photos)[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
Thanks to the Full English and coffee and croissants!
26 March 2014, 7:51 pm

I have to say that most of the time I find Riviera Radio very irritating. However, I do like listening to Rob Harrison on the "Full English Breakfast" broadcast between 7.00 and 8.00 in the morning. After that the music goes down hill and the condescending adverts switch me right off, so I listen to my phone or iPod in preference. However, this Monday I tuned in on my way to school and heard an advert for Air France who were promoting cheap flights to, wait for it, Shanghai.

Now, one of Elaine's brothers lives in Shanghai and we have been intending on going to see him and his beautiful wife, Jenny, at some time during our year off work. Thanks to Air France we have got a great deal. We go in November, tickets booked and paid for. And we're going to go climbing to Yangshou as well. How good is that? Better than superb, I reckon! So, I guess I should say "thank you" to Riviera Radio. I just wish they'd play less of that modern crap "music" and get rid of that annoying American who does the stupid quotes, like "Is that a banger in your pocket, or are you pleased to see me". FFS Also, they should seriously consider what effect the flexigarden.eu adverts have on normal, sensible people. Word up, please.

Changing the subject:

Le Club du Mardi (The Tuesday Club) continues climbing at the Gorges du Blavet. It's the best option down here still, because the limestone crags with tufas are still pretty wet. It means that some of the Nice climbers are getting stuff done outdoors instead of pulling on plastic, which is fine by me.

This club includes legend Axel Franco, mega new route equipper Olivier Germain, super strong Fabien Paupert, Fred "Champagne" Oddo, mega strong pop-star-look-alike Alex Meije and me (baldy old Mike). The crack is as good as it ever was on the catwalk at Malham but there are no wet holds to contend with.

We always stop at the cafe before climbing and I'm always amazed at what my mates eat and how much coffee they drink. Until yesterday, I haven't drunk coffee before climbing for decades as it always made me way too wobbly on the rock. There were no such problems yesterday after a "grande creme" and a "pain aux raisins". Oh dear, this could become a habit!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fabien tucking into a croissant coated in cheese[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Olivier, Alex, Fabien and Axel going for it! Will they manage to get off the ground?[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp asking for some coffee and a roll up![/td][/tr]
[/table]

Things went very well yesterday, we all did some great climbing. However, each one of us left (apart from Fred who was marked absent this week) with unfinished business. Hopefully to be finished some time soon. Maybe this weekend. If not, next Tuesday.

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#43 26 years older and wiser
April 27, 2014, 07:00:31 pm
26 years older and wiser
27 April 2014, 1:08 pm

26 years is a very long time.

That's how long it is since we last went to Chulilla, near Valencia in Spain. We drove up for a day from Calpe with Ralphy and Mavis. We weren't impressed. We did some scratty, hard little climbs opposite the main car park in the village. We went for a walk, had a look around the gorge and were amazed at the potential. However, we drove the 3 hours back to Calpe and promptly forgot about the place.

Needless to say, there has been a lot of development in the last few years. Steady Eddie, Rich Kirby and Steve Crowe have all raved about the place. So, we decided to go and check it out this Easter.

We had a great time. However, it wasn't great for Elaine's finger, as most of the climbing is on small edges (though we did find some excellent tufa routes to keep her happy). However, once I got more used to the style of climbing I was as happy as the proverbial pig in shit, after failing on three 7a+'s on the first day!! Luckily, the harder routes were "easier", though there seems to be a lot of sandbagging hype on UKC users logbooks. I have to say, I found the climbing hard; the fingery climbing, slippery rock and the long routes meant you had to really concentrate for ages on each ascent. The location is really beautiful and it is perfect in a camper van. It's such a shame that there is litter everywhere and there are so many dogs at the crag.

I was happy with my tick list after 10 days of climbing: Danos Colaterales (7b+ os), Nivelungalos (7c), Los Caminantes (7c os), El Diablo Viste de Prana (7c+), Moon Safari (7c+), El Bufa (8a) and Tequila Sunrise (8a).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Looking towards El Balcon from El Balconcito[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Pampas Finas, a great 40 metre 7a+ warm up at Chorreras[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A young lad (called Will from Sheffield) making El Bufa (8a) look like a path[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Will higher on the fantastic El Bufa[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The tricky start to Moon Safari, a mega classic 40 metre 7c+[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Time to celebrate with a chocolate biscuit[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A rare photo of Scamp looking at the camera[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#44 Only 20 more gets ups!
May 20, 2014, 01:00:23 pm
Only 20 more gets ups!
20 May 2014, 11:26 am

It's a busy day today. I've been to the dentist for a check up (still no improvement with my paralyzed jaw after over 2 years), then I had to get the Control Technique (MOT) done on my van. This afternoon, I need to get 2 new tyres (as it failed the CT) and then I will be going to see Patrick, the kine (physiotherapist), who is nicely sorting out my stiff back. So, no chance of doing any climbing today.

I haven't been out with the Tuesday Club since before Easter. Most of them are now busy working and I've not been very motivated to climb locally. On a positive note, there are only 20 more times that I will have to get out of bed to go to work, before we go off on our travels.

So far, we are going to be visiting the following places during our 14 months off work:

Spain in Jul/Aug;

Kalymnos in Sept;

Iceland in Oct;

China in Nov/Dec;

Sicily in Jan;

skiing in Tignes in early Feb;

Misja Pec in Feb/Mar;

Spain for a few months.

Maybe, even look for a new place to live, as well.

Meanwhile, we have been ticking over at Jurassic Park, Cayenne and Mesa Verde. All the crags in Les Gorges du Loup are now dry and conditions are perfect. Last Sunday, it was nice to do something I hadn't done before. About 10 years ago, I had a brief look at a new 7b+ at Mesa Verde, called Ca va merder. I backed off it, because it was dirty and snappy. Now it is clean and provides great, tricky climbing. Nico did the Projet PHP/Arrowhead connection (a nice 7c). Elaine didn't climb as her finger was quite sore after working Cayenne on Saturday, but she took some nice photos:



















Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#45 CLIMB NOW WORK LATER
July 16, 2014, 07:00:32 pm
CLIMB NOW WORK LATER
16 July 2014, 1:48 pm

It's so long since I last wrote in my blog, but we've been ticking over in the Gorges du Loup. There have been some fine additions at Mesa Verde, for example Beer Fest (a short, powerful 7b+ equipped by Julien Bouquignaud), Pas de chocolat pour les Nicois font du ski (a long 7c equipped by Guillaume Ciais) and a couple of hard fingery 8a+'s equipped by the super prolific local legend Axel Franco.



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]2 views of Beer Fest. Hardin at the start and Yannick at the end (thanks to Marie-Jo Centofanti/Voyages a le Verticale).[/td][/tr]
[/table]

At last we've finally reached the end of the school year and are ready to set off on our travels. First destination was a long weekend in Britain, visiting family and friends. As usual Ewan and Brenna were as generous as ever putting us up in fine style. It was lovely meeting up with my little sis Jessica, for Sunday roast at the The Walton Arms, where Elaine and I had our wedding reception nearly 33 years ago. Also it was great to see Nige Hunt, who popped down with Jenny and his two boys, to share a beer. We were shown Pete Chadwick's baby sitting skills, though we quickly made our excuses and left when he started singing "Old McDonald had a farm" to Naz's baby Sam.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]We all live in a .......[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Where we had our wedding reception in 1981![/td][/tr]
[/table]

Of course a trip to Liverpool wouldn't be complete without visiting the Hangar. We love that place! I'm sure if it was down here we wouldn't go climbing outdoors as much. It is brilliant to go and do new circuits every time we go there. Well done to Ged and his staff for making so many great problems and being so friendly. Elaine's finger was still swollen after straining it the week before at Mesa Verde, so she decided not to climb (which was probably the sensible thing to do, but I know she was very disappointed and frustrated).







We also went down to Wales. No we didn't get to climb the classics on the Cromlech again, as it was raining steadily all day, but we did get to call in at DMM (makers of the best climbing gear in the cosmos and owners of the coolest logo ever - "Climb now work later"). We chatted for ages with a youthful and fit looking Paul Simkiss. It was just like old times, with lots of banter and plenty of Politically inCorrect jokes thrown in for good measure!



OK so now we are back in France and should be heading off in the camper van tomorrow or Friday towards Asturias. Richie Patterson has written an ace looking topo for this area in northern Spain. Between now and September 2015 we're going to Climb Now and Work Later. Bring it on!



Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#46 The rain in Spain ....
August 17, 2014, 07:00:39 pm
The rain in Spain ....
17 August 2014, 1:06 pm

We know that we've returned to the Mediterranean because the sky is blue. We've missed the sun so much during the past few weeks.

The main objective was to visit Cantabria and Asturias in northern Spain as a result of buying Richie Patterson's excellent new topo "Roca Verde". However the forecast was bad so we stuck to the sunny side of Spain to begin with.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from our doss spot high above La Hermida, Cantabria[/td][/tr]
[/table]

First destination was a fairly new cliff called Culla about an hour north of Valencia. Thanks to Dave and Rhian Cross for the excellent info. However it was very tough on the Scali getting down the 2.5km track to a perfect doss spot overlooking the crag. The crag was in the shade with plenty of wind, we had the place to ourselves and the routes were on fantastic colonettes. Due to the uncertainty of not being able to get the Scali back up the track we decided to drive back up that evening (after doing Mojo Pican, a really nice 7a+, Mojita Matata, a great 7b+ and working a really long 7c). It was touch and go and needed some flat out rally driving to make it back up. We made the long walk the following day instead which was an uphill killer at the end of the day in the full sun. (That day I did one of the best 7c's I've ever done called El Poder del Keler but I couldn't hang on the slopey crux of Generacion del Silencio, 7b+!) After that we decided to go somewhere else with a much shorter walk in.



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tufa paradise[/td][/tr]
[/table]





[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]El Fronton at Culla from the end of the track (photo by Elaine Owen)[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Somewhere we'd never been to was Onati in the Basque. After only 2 minutes walk in I was motivated to do the 2 great looking tufa climbs where you arrive at the crag (Sonata, 7c and Mamba, 8a). However with very high humidity the climbing was hard work and it took me so long to do Sonata (completely pumped and covered in sweat) that I didn't bother even trying Mamba. It was great to make new friends, Gaizka and Sergio were really helpful and always good fun at the crag. Unfortunately, we never saw the sun during the 3 days we were there and we got fed up of the humidity and the rain.

It was finally time to drive on to Asturias at last. Driving along the autopista the scenery reminded us of North Wales. The mountains rise very steeply just a couple of km inland from the Atlantic in much the same way that the Carneddau rise above the villages of Penmaenmawr and Llanfairfechan. There was another similarity in that they were very often hidden by dark clouds and rain!

From the topo we sussed out the places that would keep us entertained: Poo de Cabrales and Rumenes. Both crags have plenty of colos and enough shade for summer cragging. The lower sector at Poo has great short routes from 6b+ to 7a which are super warm ups. The upper "Chorreras" crag is great for onsighting from 7a to 7b+ (the harder routes are not as good). The best routes we did were Mociviellos (6b+), Cencerrada (7a), Alanvista (7a+), Entremedusas (7b) and Kalima (7b+). Richie says that the 7c+ at El Corralito is very good and the 8a+ looks brilliant (though has probably only had one ascent apparently).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave and Rhian Cross on the 7a+ part of El dia del arquero at Rumenes[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Ahhhh, Rumenes. What wonderful climbs there are to do there, long colonettes and not too steep. The canyon is so impressive and there is so much rock everywhere. It is an equippers paradise, if you're prepared to walk some. There will be a lot of development in the coming years. DON'T FORGET TO BUY THE TOPO BECAUSE RICHIE IS DONATING 20% FOR EQUIPPING. PLEASE DON'T PHOTOCOPY.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sindrome de Stendhal, 50m of tufa heaven makes a great 8a (photo by Richie Patterson)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jan from Czech Republic on the brilliant Rumenes power y al vino, 7a+[/td][/tr]
[/table]



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Asia from Poland flashing the excellent Cinderella Man, 7c[/td][/tr]
[/table]



All the climbs at sector Chorreras are well worth doing, especially Rumenes power y al vino (one of the best 7a+'s anywhere) and the 50m 8a classic Sindrome de Stendhal. There are plenty of places to park up in the camper van in peace. On rest days the food and beer is very cheap in the climbers bar in La Hermida (Posada la Cuadrona) and there is a hot spring under the bridge.

We didn't get to Teverga which is the other must go to destination, though much more sunnier. That'll be at the top of the list for next time. The region is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to, the climbing is fantastic and the topo is amazing and so inspiring. I can't wait to go back.



Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#47 Herve Gourdel, climber and ordinary citizen
September 27, 2014, 07:00:36 pm
Herve Gourdel, climber and ordinary citizen
27 September 2014, 3:00 pm

One of the most moving things Elaine and I have ever seen was the silent march in Nice today, to pay respect to our friend Herve Gourdel. There were several thousand people walking the route from the port to la Theatre Verdure. Most of us were carrying large colour portraits of Herve and white roses, provided specially by the city of Nice for this special occasion. The culmination was a very moving speech by one of the mountain guides he worked with.

The barbaric murder of Herve has led to widespread condemnation throughout France and it is not just the climbing community that is in shock and in mourning. It seems everybody has been stunned by the wicked act of the terrorists in Algeria. Francois Hollande has declared 3 days of mourning and there are marches being held throughout France to show how the nation feels.

I was lucky enough to have worked with Herve a few times over the years, on outdoor activity trips with students here on the Cote d'Azur. I shall always remember his calm approach to his work, his amazing attitude towards life and the environment and of course his wonderful smile. Also, it was always a pleasure to bump into him at the crag and trade tales (like climbers do).

Herve will be missed by so many and my thoughts are with his family. Goodbye dear friend. RIP.



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]

[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Source: Mike Owen's blog


comPiler

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6759
  • Karma: +62/-3
#48 RIP Scamp
September 27, 2014, 07:00:37 pm
RIP Scamp
27 September 2014, 4:12 pm

Whilst we were on Kalymnos our lovely Scamp died!

Since January we had known that she had a heart murmur and the vet said we might need to take it a bit easier with Scamp. In fact he went as far as to say that she may even have a heart attack at any moment or maybe not. We just assumed that she'd keep going at her usual max speed for several more years.

Unfortunately, it wasn't to be. We received the awful news on Kalymnos. We were absolutely devastated. However, it must have been equally upsetting for poor Caren who was looking after her and found her.

Scamp was 2 months short of being 12 years old. She was always very stressed out by thunder storms, fireworks, hunters and anything noisy. Interestingly, she did die on the first day of this year's hunting season (i.e. 14th Sept). It appears that she had a heart attack and went peacefully in her sleep on our terrace.

We picked up Scamp's ashes from the vets yesterday and walked up the hill behind our house. We spread them on "Smerl's Rock" (named after our 1st border collie Merlin) at the summit, which was one of her favourite places and has a beautiful view of the Gorges du Loup. She is now "scamping" in paradise.

Thank you Scamp for making us smile and laugh every day for so many years. We will miss you so much.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp with her favourite toy[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp had her own chair![/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp (far left) with some of  her brothers and sisters at the farm.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp was already used to playing in the snow at the farm.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp on "Smerl's Rock" where we spread her ashes yesterday.[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Source: Mike Owen's blog


webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5029
  • Karma: +141/-13
#49 Re: Mike Owen's blog
September 27, 2014, 09:10:57 pm
Showed this to the missus we both had a tear in our eye after reading it. Pets eh who'd be with out them..
Condolences  to you both.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal