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Mike Owen's blog
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Got my mojo working again.
12 May 2011, 5:13 pm
Last year was a bit of a write off for a couple of reasons. This year is looking much more promising. The weather is better and we've been able to get out on the rock regularly since just before Easter. As a result, I'm feeling fitter and I'm really psyched.
The weekend after coming back from Rodellar, I managed to redpoint "Connecting People". Before the holiday, I was sure it was 8a+, but after redpoint I decided to agree with everybody else with 8a. Either way, it's a great connection linking "Come on Chris" and "le Dernier Jour de Democratie" at les Marches du Palais.
Last weekend, we went up to Le Palais, which is a really long walk above Monaco, and I got stuck into "le Mort de Cesar", an excellent 8a that finishes up another 8a ("On Attendant le Hubbert Peak") I did 4 years ago. First go, was the usual hard graft sitting on the rope dogging sketch, but 2nd go I finally got the moves (and kneebars) sorted. So, I have this route now ready for the redpoint, maybe this Saturday. Afterwards, we stopped by at Petit Palais (amazingly for the 1st time, having always walked past). We did the 6c+ and 7a+, both of which were tough for the grade. We went back for a very quick session on Sunday, before Man Utd played Chelsea. Elaine played on the 6c+ and I managed "Gladiator", a tough but great 7b+ with a tricky cross through move.
Yesterday, we went to Mesa Verde, in the Gorges du Loup and had lots of fun talking and joking with Marie-Jo, Julien, Sabine and Laurence. Conditions were great. So Elaine and I wamed up on the steep 6c+ and "Pas de bras, pas de chocolat" 7a, then I found another brill project. I'd never done "Petit Poucet", so I thought it would be a good one to try with the connection into "Arrowhead". This is fantastic and I've got it sorted for redpoint now.
So, I now have a problem. Where to go this weekend? Which route to try? Or should I try both? Only one more day, trying to motivate the next generation and then back on the rock! It's great to be psyched again....
Source: Mike Owen's blog
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24 May 2012, 10:59 am
I'd forgotten that I'd set up this blog last year, perhaps because I hadn't had anything interesting to put in it. Perhaps not.
We haven't seemed to do a lot of climbing in the last year, not like we used to do. We spend too much time looking at the weather forecast and staying at home, if there is any hint of rain! We should bite the bullit and get away in the camper van more often.
Since early April, I have had to put up with a numb lower lip, teeth and chin on the left side of my face. This is because the dentist cut the mandibular nerve when re-doing a root canal (as I had an infection in a root). I usually see Helen in Cagnes sur Mer, but she is always booked up, so I saw her associate instead. I have had to have an operation in my mouth to try and sort out the problem. The op was successful. However, the nerve is unlikely to regenerate and I am slowly getting used to the lack of feeling. As a result, I am missing 2 crowns and a bridge and feeling very self conscious when opening my mouth. Eating is no longer a pleasure, as I often bite myself (at least I don't feel it!) and I can't talk for long as my mouth hasn't fully healed inside. We have a GAV insurance, which should enable me to gain some compensation.
On Tuesday, we went to see Coldplay in Nice. The rain stopped at last and it was a fantastic gig with amazing special effects. Everybody had a magic coloured bracelet that lit up. We got home way after 2am as the roads were jammed solid. I'm hoping that I can attach some photos to this......
We have been out a few times recently; a day bouldering at Annot, la grotte at La Brigue and some days in the gorge. This afternoon, I'm meeting up with some friends at Mesa Verde, which is hopefully dry. We'll see.
Source: Mike Owen's blog
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Je suis un lion tres amicable qui s'appelle "Parsley"
3 October 2012, 6:22 pm
I do the shopping now. It is something I try hard to fit in between working and climbing (remember, I now work part time, ok?). I like doing the weekly shop. I get to buy nice wine and there is always beer in the house now. Anyway, I slipped up a few weeks ago, when re-stocking the camper van. I bought a jar of ciboulette (chives) instead of basil. Otherwise, my track record is doing well.
Tonight we ate early (after a quick session at Jurassic Park) as the Boss had to go for a scan on her left hand (she slammed into the rock whilst belaying me when I fell off somewhere recently and it's been hurting since). We haven't had as much fun over tomates et mozzarelle for a long time! Reason: we got talking about the ciboulet and that prompted us to remember the 60's children's tv series called "The Herbs". It was quite worrying how quickly we trawled through over 40 years of memories and we were soon excitedly trying to remember the characters. However, I puffed my chest out when I remembered Parsley and then threw the ace when I sang the first line of his signature tune: "I'm a very friendly lion called Parsley". Get in!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Herbs
Check it out dudes.
Here's a couple of shots of Elaine climbing at Jurassic Park.
Tomorrow: Fatman and Robin go to secteur Jacob at la Turbie. That'll wipe the smile of my face, as there's nothing easy (below 8a) left for me to do there! Maybe, I'll get a good project as that's what I need..... Watch this space!
Source: Mike Owen's blog
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Pocket power (or the lack of)
8 October 2012, 8:03 pm
I'm a very, very slow climber. Always have been and always will be. I'm even slower than Tony Mitchell (but nowhere near as stylish). I imagine watching me climb is completely different from the fast, action-packed movement of Chris Sharma and even less interesting than watching paint dry. That's because I started climbing on nuts and I didn't dare fall off. By necessity, climbing was like a war of attrition; you took your time and hung on by the grit of your teeth. Old habits die hard. The result is that I really struggle with anything that comes near to a hard move, due to a complete lack of what Ben and Jerry called "power". Just like the late, great Jim Jewel, I can't pull on the smallest holds, but those I can pull on, I can pull on all day. At Art'bloc I struggle on the warm ups, but put me on a long route with good holds and I'm in heaven.
Yesterday, after a very sweaty Saturday at Cineplex (getting closer on my project there) we went to Mesa Verde. There is a new 7c there, which Big Ben said was really good. However, he failed to mention that the crux involves a mono. (Ok, even I can manage the odd mono move.) But this mono was very painful indeed and it was impossible to bear the pain. I actually got past the mono on redpoint but my finger was in agony. So, I need to go back and do it properly without the rest. Maybe on Wednesday.
Pockets have always been hard work. This mono can be added to the list that also includes the bi-doigt on Au Bout du Souffle (left hand 1st and 2nd fingers), the bi-doigt on Barjorland (middle 2 fingers on right hand) and the bi-doigt on Soul Sacrifice (middle 2 fingers, right hand again). At least I managed the first two but never completed SS, despite it being a stones throw from home.
Pulling on the 2 finger pocket on Au Bout du Souffle, in 2005
Elaine has got a small broken bone in her left hand from a few weeks back, whilst belaying me. And today, she had a synovial fluid injection in her problem middle finger on her right hand. Hopefully, that should see her on the mend and she can get back to normal soon.
Parents evening tomorrow, arrrgggghhhhh!!!
Source: Mike Owen's blog
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Francois Hollande et sa chemise
11 October 2012, 7:27 pm
Fatman and Robin made it out together today after a 2 week break. We met up at the parking spot for le Palais. Conditions weren't promising as there was way too much humidity and the cloud layer was very low. Still, we set off for Petit Palais as planned.
Franco and Flaviano were already there. Flaviano was wearing a really bright orange shirt (chemise) and I mentioned that he was making a statement by wearing it. We discussed the possibility of an equivalent French word for "statement" and it seems there is no such word. I tried to explain it was rather like Francois Hollande stating that he would have a clean and straight government. So, Robin tried his best to get his head round this revelation, but in the end he said he couldn't really see the link between Francois Hollande and Flaviano's shirt! Erm, you had to be there really ....
We had a great day, despite poor conditions. Robin made short work of "Le Retour de Mo", a very powerful 7c/7c+ and I managed a 1st redpoint of "Quel trip te guette?", a fantastic 7c+ that I'd had my eye on for a couple of years. An early finish for 2 very happy crag rats.
Flaviano climbing "Ideal Pouf", 7b
Robin climbing "Le Retour de Mo", 7c/7c+
Chuffed to do the new 7c at Mesa Verde yesterday, too. Looking good for Cineplex this weekend.
Source: Mike Owen's blog
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