I also have this issue (amongst others many on here will say... ) and on the rare occasion I go to a wall, I work this one by getting on overhanging parts (usually 30-40 degree) and just working easyish problems but lunging between moves instead of doing everything static. For me I think this stems from finding static moves (via cunning body position etc..) much more satisfying that lunging between things. I suspect in many cases while the static way may appear more efficient - often by the time I've faffed about dropping my knee or egyptianing whatever I would have used less energy just going for it... I am also weak
You just described me...! Are you my long lost brother??
Also, I think that the static style is 90 % the way to go for trad onsighting, so don't neglect this if you trad it up a lot.
I'm trying to think of a decent video that demonstrates this style well, anyone?
Quote from: Danny on September 17, 2013, 02:58:16 pmAlso, I think that the static style is 90 % the way to go for trad onsighting, so don't neglect this if you trad it up a lot.Yet, there haven't been many climbers with better track-record of scary onsights than "the leaping boy," have there?