I also have this issue (amongst others many on here will say... ) and on the rare occasion I go to a wall, I work this one by getting on overhanging parts (usually 30-40 degree) and just working easyish problems but lunging between moves instead of doing everything static. For me I think this stems from finding static moves (via cunning body position etc..) much more satisfying that lunging between things. I suspect in many cases while the static way may appear more efficient - often by the time I've faffed about dropping my knee or egyptianing whatever I would have used less energy just going for it... I am also weak
You just described me...! Are you my long lost brother??
Also, I think that the static style is 90 % the way to go for trad onsighting, so don't neglect this if you trad it up a lot.
I'm trying to think of a decent video that demonstrates this style well, anyone?
Quote from: Danny on September 17, 2013, 02:58:16 pmAlso, I think that the static style is 90 % the way to go for trad onsighting, so don't neglect this if you trad it up a lot.Yet, there haven't been many climbers with better track-record of scary onsights than "the leaping boy," have there?
Quote from: Danny on September 17, 2013, 02:58:16 pmI'm trying to think of a decent video that demonstrates this style well, anyone?The opening "dream" sequence to Stone Monkey demonstrates some dynamic movement.
Can we clarify between "Dynoing", "Dynamic", and "Deadpointing"? I consider Deadpointing to be dynamic.
Quote from: Sasquatch on September 17, 2013, 06:25:24 pmCan we clarify between "Dynoing", "Dynamic", and "Deadpointing"? I consider Deadpointing to be dynamic.+1
Second, and far more important, it encourages you to use the free leg to generate momentum. In its most cartoon form this is what is now called a pogo (though I always called it a ninja kick), but actually little flicks of the leg are usually more subtly useful, mostly by providing an efficient means to adjust on holds.If you climb with both feet on all the time you'll never learn this. I'm trying to think of a decent video that demonstrates this style well, anyone?