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Legends
17 December 2013, 6:29 am

These are some of many shots I took of the Legends only competition which was held at K2 during the last weekend of November. An extremely well executed event that attracted many spectators, who I can only assume got just as inspired as I did from watching the boys climb.

Sean McColl, Canada

The winner of the comp, James Webb becoming the only one to top out the second problem.



Said and Robban, the two speakers warming up the audience.





The Belgium beast, .

Nalle Hukkataival, Finland.

Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Russia.



/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Another finished chapter, time to write a new one
18 December 2013, 8:09 am

Combining studies with training is not as easy as I've been told. Before this semester at Berghs school of communication, I have not been sat in a school-bench since I graduated from upper secondary school in the spring of 2007. And I must say, going back being used to having climbing as my main focus in life, it's been hard to maintain my training. School-assignments has taken up most of my focus and the stress of constantly having something related to these to think about has drained me on lots of energy. It's actually not been until in the last couple of weeks when all assignments was handed in, that I've started feeling like myself again when going to the wall.







However, in spite of this I have enjoyed my stay in Stockholm very much, climbing-wise also. Training at facilities like K2, surrounded by incredibly many talented climbers has given me a whole new perspective of the Swedish climbing-scene. It has also helped me regain my joy for indoor climbing, which has been running pretty low in the last year or so. But lately I've been able to enjoy climbing in the gym just as much as going outdoors. All thanks to the atmospehere and the amount of new problems being put up every week by hard working routesetters. It´s beyond anything I've experienced before.

One of my neighboors in Stockholm seemed to have a thing or two to learn about appartment-adapted pets. (Translation: Beware of camel).

I am not sure what I'll be doing after New years, but since school is over and I no longer have a place to stay in Stockholm, I have moved back to Uddevalla for the time being. I will be doing some work over the holidays and a couple of weeks into the new year. After that I'm free as a bird again and time will tell wheter I'll be back on the road travelling or in Stockholm training.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Years go by
31 December 2013, 1:19 pm

Since I started this blog in the autumn of 2007, I have made it a tradition to end every year with a review of the 365 days that past. For some reason however, I did not write this post last year and discovering this made me a bit sad. At the same time, I realize that these posts are something I compose for me more than for anyone else to read. It gives me so much pleasure to go back to the old entries and read about all the stuff I had forgotten about doing. All the people I've met, days I've spent moaning over bad weather or times I have been blissfull over having climbed a boulder (or in rare occations, a route).

So what is worth mentioning when looking back at 2013? There are of course a couple of moments that I remember particularly well. I would be stupid not to name Duel, but to say that it's the single greatest moment would be an overexaggeration. I can think of at least a couple of experiences and achivements I am just as happy about. For example when sticking the last move of Big dragon, after having fallen off it on my two previous goes due to missing the jug. Both those tries I was confident I would do it. On my third go however, I felt tired and hesitated. I knew it was the last go I had in me that day, and if it wasn't for the very unexpected cheering on from a big Edinburgh-crew that had turned up on the parkinglot, while I was doing the lower moves, I would probably have failed it again. Another great day was the one on which I climbed Modulor assis, le Tour du Babel and the sitstart to it, psyched up by Haroun and Neil. Having Neil around with his camera, not only that day but on several other occations, led to me getting to be a part of his amazing film. Another highlight of 2013.

As you might understand when reading the lines above, most of the climbing I did on rock this year happened in the spring. Although Fontainebleau did not show off it's best side, it's still a  fact that it's where I came to do most sessions outdoors. After returning to Sweden, I have been traveling less than usual. I did two short weekend trips in April, which where only separated by a day back in Uddevalla. First to Kjugekull with the cheerful Cabrera/Tillman family followed by a weekend on Åland with a big group of amazing people. Both of these are forming memories I will cherish as they remind me of what climbing is all about.

As usual I spent my summer working, but unlike before I treated myself to a week's vacation in the middle of it. This was not just so that I could be lazy, but for me to visit the annual Outdoor tradeshow in Friedrichshafen for the first time. I was invited there by the boys from Revolution and I am very thankful that they wanted to have me there. Not only was it great to meet the team aswell as Clark, the founder of Pusher and Revolution, but being there also gave me a whole new perspective of the outdoor-industry. Not to mention meeting many new, aswell as old friends.

 

Cuerpo de hombre 7C in Häller. Photo: Jonas Paulsson.

I have been extremely fortunate to be supported by some very inspiring companies. With that I have also got do some very fun work. Towards the end of the summer I visited Lofoten in Norway with Tierra, to modell for their next summer catalougue. I got to try out their entire collection for next year, while doing all kinds of crazy activities. Everything from hiking up mountains and running on the beaches in bad ass weather, to suiting up for having Bacalaou at a local restaurant in the evenings.

My work in front of the camera, did not end when leaving Lofoten. The day after I returned back home, my  friend Thomas Schermer who is working as a photographer, came to visit me. Together we  spent four days driving up and down the westcoast for him to  take photos of me climbing, resulting in many great shots.

If you would have asked me a year ago, predicting that I would spend a  semester studying is a very unlikely guess I would have  made. The thought first hit me in the early spring. I was sat in  Neil's gite in Font, unable to count the days I'd been forced to rest  due to poor weather. Tired of the situation, I applied to a one semester photo-course at the renowned Berghs school of communication in Stockholm. I did not believe for a second that I would get in, so when the acceptence letter turned up in July I was fascing quite a hard desicion to make. One part of me was much more keen on spending the money I was saving up working, that would all be eaten by the tuition fee, on a new trip. But since I could still remember the frustration I had felt when applying, I decided that I could always save up new money and go chasing for dry rock later.

When the summer had passed, it was time to make the move to the Swedish capital, to start a semester that came to be a busy time. At first I felt super-psyched on everything, especially going to the climbinggym. But as we where told by our teachers on our first day, there would not be much time for anything but school until the 12th of December when it was ending. Since photography is very subjective, there are no sure answers. Therefor I could put endless amounts of efforts in to each assignment and when it was time to hand them in, I would still not feel satisfied. Of course it pulled my focus away from climbing more than I could ever have imagined it would, and it put my  motivation to a hard test. The time however added to my photographical skills, which I hope will be noticeable in aswell the photos as films I will be making in the future.

Except for going to the Västervik bouldermeet, I did not go away for a single weekend only to climb during the autumn. I made a couple of day trips to areas around Stockholm and Uppsala, but due to the reasons I explain above, it was hard to get much out of it. After a while I realized this and decided to focus the time I could dispense on climbing, on training indoors. There is never enough time to keep up with all the things I wish to do and as I try finding a way trough life, there will be times when climbing can't always come first. I was fortunate however, to spend this time in a place like Stockholm, with all the great facilities and amount of motivated climbers that kept me wanting to go to the gyms.

Before rouding this off, I would like to put down a few lines of gratitude and appreciation. To Pierre Ropero and Erik Tjerneld at Tierra, Musti and Ibo at Revolution, Erik Massih at Five ten, Jarmo at Boulderkeskus and Wioletta with LYO food for their amazing support. To all the amazing, new people I have been fortunate to get to know during the year aswell as to old friends I have been spending time with. For my friends who I did not manage to bump into even once during 2013, let's make sure that won't be the case of 2014.

Last but not least, to myself in the future - I hope this helped brighten up some of all the great memories that was created in the year 2013!

Happy new year!/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Video - Island fun
15 January 2014, 5:48 am

Now that school is no longer keeping me busy, I can start editing videos again. But in order to do so, I need material, which there isn't lots of since I haven't climbed much outdoors all autumn, let alone filmed. However, some of the footage Thomas and I gathered during his visit in August, did not fit in to I made. Using that, I have put together this short with four problems from the Islands of Öckerö, outside Gothenburg.

The two songs in the video are by Andreas Åhlfeldt, who has produced music for many great climbing videos such as Progression and First ascent. Make sure to visit his site and listen to his other great tunes.

Featured problems:

Den gamle och havet 7B+, Hönö

Jänkarproblemet 7B, ÖckeröLamborghini 6B+, ÖckeröFull pull 7A, Hönö

Climber in video:

Daniel Olausson

Edit:

Daniel Olausson

Music:

"A-M K" & "6-8 4-4"by Andreas beats

Camera

Thomas SchermerDaniel Olausson

Produced in association with:

Tierra

FivetenBoulderkeskusRevolutionLyofood

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Legends black and white
27 January 2014, 7:31 am



















/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Watchtower 7C, Uppsala
28 January 2014, 6:24 am





Danny on one of his pre-send goes on Watchtower in Focksta.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Karbin workout
30 January 2014, 8:13 am





Unknown climber getting ready for another set on the campusboard at Karbin.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Baretta 8a
9 February 2014, 9:24 am





Fredrik Sydstrand warming up at Flaten outside Stockholm, on a grim October afternoon.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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My way 6C
11 February 2014, 8:37 am



Petter Ulmert reaching the last holds before the topout of My way at Röda Väggen in Västervik.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Åland roof-climbing
14 February 2014, 7:00 am



Stefan enjoying the moves of Swiss roof at Fågelberget whilst Vidar is making sure he is feeling safe.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Boulderkeskus ISATIS
18 February 2014, 5:53 am

First weekend of February, I visited Finland and Helsinki for the first time. A city that lived up to everything I ever it imagined it would be, in terms of grey, cold and snowy. What I did not expect however, where all the great indoor climbing-facilities there is to be found. I was invited by my two friends Henna and Jarmo to attend the opening of the latest addition, their new bouldering-gym Boulderkeskus Isatis.

I had not been climbing since before Christmas due to finger injury, and that barely changed over the weekend. Not being able to climb so much, did however not really spoil my trip since I got to meet both old freinds aswell as new acquaintances. Also, since Jarmo is something of a child caught in a grown mans body and really appreciate toys, there where TONS of other things to keep me occupied. Such as pinball machines, videogames and a pooltable. Along with massages, aromatheraphy, yoga- and pilates-classes, that makes for a place where I could easily hang out not only on the days when I'm training. Although, the main reason to why I would be visting Isatis is still the crazy walls that Jarmo designed. The place offers a bit of everything in terms of wall-angles and shapes and from the looks of it, I think it's a great gym for training. Thanks again, Jarmo and Henna for having me!

Checking the results for the final.

Invited pro-climber Rustam Gelmanov on the first problem in the final of the opening compeititon.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Urban 7C+
25 February 2014, 6:00 am





Stefan x2 (Pettersson and Eklund) trying Urban at Skogsblocket in Jumkil

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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For old time sake
19 March 2014, 7:24 am

Few climbers I've met are bursting with such passion and energy at the rocks,  as Said. Just the fact that he climbs more than hundred routes 8a and  above every year, I think speaks for itself. Last week, while paying  a short visit in his old hometown, he spent an afternoon at Hyltebergen repeating  his training-circuit from back in the day. A bunch of sevens and a  couple of eights, in between sushi in the sun and dinner at his mom's  place, is a pace one can only dream of keeping up with.

Said Belhaj repeating Forex 8a, for old time sake.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Fighting Rabies
21 March 2014, 5:56 am



Tom Boholm climbing Rabies 7a in Fjällbo (The most urban Gothenburg ropeclimbing-crag, situated just outside the city center).

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Dynamo 7a
27 March 2014, 7:17 am



William Falkenström giving his last efforts working Dynamo 7a at the end of a long day at Rabiesväggen.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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3 from in between the showers
31 March 2014, 7:04 am

From what I hear, weather in Font has been great this winter. Unlike last year when I was there, dragging my bad karma to the forrest. However, despite the fact that I did far from as much climbing as I would have wanted to, I still have'nt used all the footage I gathered during that time. While sat thinking back of last winter, I came to think of these bits of unused footage and decided to try making the most of (some of) them. Hope you enjoy what I did!

Featured problems:

Vague Patatras 8A Rocher Saint-Germain

Les Conquistadores direct 7B+ Rocher Gréau

Vandale gauche 7A+ Rocher Cailleau

Climber in video:

Fredrik Sydstrand

Daniel Olausson

Edit:

Daniel Olausson

Camera:

Daniel Olausson

Music:

"Lalala" by Andreasbeats.com

Produced in association with:

Revolution

Fiveten

Tierra

Boulderkeskus

Lyofood

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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What does the Turkey say
21 April 2014, 8:23 am

Since about a month back my life has been pretty sweet. I'm in Geyik bayiri, Turkey. Climbing off course, but also working in the kitchen at the Josito campsite in return for food and accomondation.

Just before Chritsmas I injured my finger and due to this I did not climb at all until the beginning of February. When starting again, I could at first only do very easy moves on jugs and when two friends told me about going to Turkey to ropeclimb, they caught my interest. I thought of it as an opportunity to try something new since ropeclimbing should be more gentle on the finger.





Every other day I'm off from work and those I spend desperately trying  to learn how to get along with the limestone tufa's. So far I have not  been very succesfull. It's almost like doing a new sport too me as I  have not been doing much ropeclimbing before. At least not compared to  how much I have bouldered. Also it's my first time climbing on limestone  which sure takes some getting used to. At first I was super-frustrated  and felt completely lost on whatever climb I got on. Then I realized  that I had to change my approach towards it all. I lowered my ambitions,  started looking at every climb as training and now I'm trying to do as  many routes as I can, regardless of style or difficulty. It has made it  all much more enjoyable and I'm slowly adapting to the climbingstyle.



Hugo, one of the local dogs chilling at the campsite.

I'm planning to stick around for a while longer, before returning to  Sweden to spend my summer working as usual. I'm looking forward to keep  working on my endurance and that hopefully summer in Sweden will allow  for me to use it on the routes around where I live.



Two shots from nearby city, Antalya.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Air and style
23 April 2014, 3:53 am





A to me unknown climber on what I believe is the first pitch of Air and style (6c+/7c+) in the Anatolia sector.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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The Ry
28 April 2014, 5:17 am

Just before leaving Sweden, I somehow managed to persuade my friend Ry Morrison in to coming along on the Turkey-adventure. Having him around sure is great. Partly since he keeps reminding me of how awesome our lifes are, regardless of how the climbing goes...

The man and legend hitchhiking to Antalya...



Spotting some goat-action for the camera...

On his way back from morning-yoga for breakfast before hitting the rocks...

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Worked up apetite
9 May 2014, 10:21 am

Every evening as the sun sets and dark comes over Geyik Bayiri, climbers are dropping in at Josito with an worked up apetite. While they have been out climbing, chef Ra?it has been preparing delicious Turkish food for them to enjoy while thinking back at their day at the rocks.









/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Turkey and back
1 June 2014, 8:51 am

After 2.5 months of working on my tan in sunny Turkey, it  feels a bit sad to be back in Sweden knowing that all those hard hours  of lying in the sun will probably be bleached away by the end of the  summer. Partly since Swedish summer does not often provide much sun but also since I will be spending most of the time indoors,  working as usual. Even though the stay in Turkey did not rob me on more  than a couple of pennies since I was fortunate to be able to work at  the campsite, it still is time to fill up the piggy bank.



Apart from working in the Jo.si.to kitchen and on my sun tan, I have also been climbing a lot. The total  amount of routes I climbed equals to about three times as many as I had  totally done in the past since I started climbing. From this I have learnt a lot  and come to enjoy sportclimbing more than ever before. Being on a  trip where weather did not keep me from climbing for a change, has  sure been amazing. At times I was almost wishing for rain so that I  could rest. At the same time, the few times when it was raining it was  of course also cloudy. That made it possible to climb in the areas  where it got too hot on the days when the skies where clear and I could not miss out on opportunities like that.



Towards the end I became more and more tired. The  only reason that I actually made it to the crag the last days was the  thought of not knowing when I would get a chance to try the awesome  routes again. With a lot of will power compensating for my lack of  energy, I also made it up a some routes during these days. A couple  of them where routes I had been waiting for to dry up ever since I  arrived.

Flame of fame 8a, Trebenna. Photo: Mikael Ylinen.

To sum it all up, I'm very happy with the stay and would  like to thank Mike and Victor for letting me tag along on their trip.  Also I want to thank the entire Jo.si.to-crew for their hospitality aswell  as all the nice people that I've been fortunate to meet and hang out with during the time. I  hope it won't be to long until I see your faces again!



Right now I'm in the midst of a weeks rest. Both my  body and mind needs to recover before I can start trying all the routes I  have not climbed here on the Swedish west coast. I'm intrigued to see how  climbing on granite will feel after 3 months of moving on limestone.



/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Heroes go left
5 June 2014, 5:00 am





Sander Werelds climbing Finger food in sector Alabalik. The obvious way for him to go after having looked in the guide to find the name of the right-variation of the route - "Heroes go left".

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Gözleme
6 June 2014, 7:18 am









Classic Turkish meal in the making.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Spanish thanks giving 7a+
9 June 2014, 5:00 am





Viktor climbing an awesome route in Alabalik Balkon 2.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Photo friendly people
11 June 2014, 5:00 am

Never before have I met a people so excited to have their photo taken. Most of the times when I pull out my camera in front of someone they turn the other way as fast as they can. Not in Turkey though. There where actually times when people came up to me and begged to be photographed. When I tried explaining that I could not pull a photo out of my camera like it was a polaroid, they still insisted. They did not care about the finished product but where only keen on being in front of a camera.













/DO

Source: Bouldersgate