the shizzle > new routes

Long Wall Stuff

(1/2) > >>

kc:
Three new routes have been done on the very dry and deserted crag known as Long Wall down Chee Dale.

Titanic 7b+/c?
This climbs the abandoned project up the prow on the righthand side of the crag. Very good climbing that maybe a tad harder for dwarfs hence the unconfirmed split grade. The old bolts will be replaced in due course but they seem OK for now. There is something quite different about this route that makes it stand out. I wonder how a ready made route got left for all those years?

Big News Man Mouth
The remnants of the old Crocker route that fell into the void years ago. This starts up Titanic and scoots around the arete onto the sustained headwall. About the same grade as Titanic just less cruxy/reachy.

(unnamed) Atlantic Realm left hand finish 8a
 The old route also suffered from the large rock fall and to my knowledge was unclimbed.
Good chunky climbing in the corner leads to a hard move right. From here a set of good moves takes you over and across the lip of the roof onto an energy sapping headwall. Alternatively continue up the original route at about 7c+ to the manky old tat on the whitebeam (awaiting a bolt lower off).

Metrol 7b+
Not new but resurrected with a guestimate replica hold. This was just pointless and rubbish without and now makes for a worthwhile outing.

A friend of mine has top roped Breathless and this would seem a worthy candidate for some new gear. Due to hold loss this dose now deviate somewhat from the original line. Techy 7c+?

andy popp:
I'd be pleased if Mouldwarp Wall was restored. Obviously its not a major line (understatement) but it does give a nice very bouldery sequence.

Wood FT:
good work kc  :thumbsup:

have only been down there once (think you were there actually?) but it's a nice area with a relatively terrying walk in (relative to the cornice). Titantic sounds interesting!

Bonjoy:
Good work Kris. Best neglected crag on peak lime I reckon

kc:

--- Quote from: andy popp on September 06, 2013, 12:44:33 pm ---I'd be pleased if Mouldwarp Wall was restored. Obviously its not a major line (understatement) but it does give a nice very bouldery sequence.

--- End quote ---
I have hundreds of BMC/Peak Bolt Fund bolts but no money for resin and 1 pair of hands.  Yes your old route does look good and would have been seen to if the Peak was more like Wales/Yorkshire where there is more of a community effort.
Now days I only bolt the routes I want to do myself. Very selfish I Know.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page