I weigh 88kgs! If it helps, I find that, instead of jumping, I pull up on my rung and the slopey BM 2 finger pocket and try to lock off for as long as possible. After a few sessions, I'm able to lock the hold and, after a few more, get some upward movement.
Nope. No repeaters for me. I fried my elbows twice with repeaters (but I'm also an idiot). Just max or sub max hangs.
I am quite sure that the isometric effort of heavy deadhanging proved very effective for one armers and general pulling power.
I was at 85-90kg for many years. Dropping 10kg made a huge difference in my climbing. So much so that I'm hoping to drop another 5kg. Uisng the slopey pocket seems like a good idea as it'll help me start to learn the pocket as well as doing the one arm work.
Big big gains, for sure just neurological but who cares?
Quote from: Nibile on September 11, 2013, 11:01:05 pm Big big gains, for sure just neurological but who cares? Random question/thought. If the gains are Nuero, are they specific to that exercise? If so, how much(if any) would translate over to real rock?
I tried to develop a sequence that ensured enough rest for fingers involved in more than one hang (typically middle and ring) otherwise it would be a three hours session with lots of resting!
Hi Nibile,Thanks for rapid answer. I have seen the gallery - front levers and this vid You perform 5 or 6 one-armers on big, wooden hold are specially impressive.Personally I am trying to perform both forearm strength (where forearm seems to be limiting factor - with "good holds" - bar or good jug) and grip strength (the same but on worse holds like rung or smaller climbing holds) training with pronated forearm. Since I am not as much interested in one armers like on hanging on weak holds I am trying to bend the catching arm, grip hold and slowly bent the legs up, while gently press other hand on something to prevent rotation around vertical axis (preserve shoulders in parallel to the board).The problem is, that notice very little gains here, and even my relatively better performance in the same exercises performed with supinated arm are not translated to this.Many thanks,Luk