[webbo]

Short term goal/whim/brainstorm Yorkshire Wolds challenge in a day.

Mon. Board good session managed a project I've been trying for a couple of months.
Tue. Bike short session including 20secs on 40 secs off x5 2 sets and drafted a tractor for 5 miles at 27 mph
We'd. Board easy mirror session.
Thu. Decided to do the Wolds cycle challenge 146 miles in a day. Started in Market Weighton rather than Beverley due to better parking and as its a circuit, it doesn't make any difference to the distance.
Got a bit lost round Southburn and Hutton Cranswick and up on main road in to Driffield, also got lost going into Humanby otherwise managed to find my way reasonably ok.
I had to give myself a talking to several times when there was a shorter route back.
Memorable moments include going up Leavening brow 1 in 5 after 120 miles, I had to get off dut to cramp in my thighs also climbing out of Thixendale. Didn't walk any of it though.
Towards the end it felt like the muscles of the front of my thighs were rotating round to the back every time I got out of the saddle.
In the end I had 148.20 miles on my computer 9 hrs 29.08 riding time 10 hrs 20 mins total 15.65 mph and 7324 calories used.
Slept badly due to cramping toes and fingers.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Board first thing just repeating stuff, climbed ok. Afternoon bike 1hr 30 mins steady.

[Wood FT]

7324 calories used.

  get that man a kebab

[fried]

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Get up late and go to Cuisiniere to try my new shoes, bad mistake. It's too hot, my feet hurt after 10 mins and I forgot to take a second pair. I repeatedly slip of the crimps of a red problem until my knuckles are bleeding. Go home.

Wednesday - Better day, remember to take 2 pairs of shoes, 15 mins in the first, then do some blue problems. Hot.
Thursday - nowt
Friday - Even hotter, so I decide to do a circuit at Beauvais Nainville which has a 100 v.easy problems. There are only 50 but good to get a couple of hours wear on the new shoes. Still feel fine, so go around to Beauvais telegrapgh and do a good few blue problem, before I lose the circuit. Good day.
Saturday - Painting
Sunday - Take bro-in-law indoors for the first time, bit busy but I'm suprisingly ache free and have a good if shortish session.

Weight 74.8kg

[tomtom]

7324 calories used.

  get that man a kebab

great effort Webbo!

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 79   
Indoor: 4 
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 19

A mentally challenging week due to work stuff on Thursday - so I'm not brimming with enthusiasm to write. But..

Mon Widdop. First time visit - fantastic. Great to meet Fatneck for the first time too.

Wed. Harmers - working on the direct to the New baby bex problem. Too warm, sticky and I was shit.

Thurs. a decompression visit to Almscliff. Too warm, but I exfoliated and let off some steam.

Sat. Harmers to work on the new prob, but Andy Popp beat me to it by 40 min came crazily close but gave up as mono crimping was leadin to a nearly split tip.

Lost the psyche this week - feel like I'm climbing just to keep the gains I've made rather than because I want to. One of those weeks, I'm sure it'll be back.

[Muenchener]

7324 calories used.

  get that man a kebab

Time for some carb supplements

[Muenchener]

STG: Welsh trad E2 in September.
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Family holiday in Switzerland.

M:
T: Alpine Cloggy approach training: Wengahorn hike. 745 metres height gain, 1:06. (And about the same down; my incipiently arthritic knees don't take kindly to descents these days)
W: Afternoon: Magic Wood. Short play on the boulders while the kids play in the river. My timid punterishness combined with alpine granite landings and no spotter (and no chalk either, oops) mean not much success on anything; mostly working on sit start technique and low traverses. But last week's tweaked finger seems to be fine, which is the main thing with Wales a week away.
   Overnight: alpine bivvy training. Night in a teepee at 2200 metres and three degrees celsius, with two small boys and two sleeping bags. I have to answer to the boys' mothers, so it's fairly clear who gets the sleeping bags. I get a thin blanket, two merino teeshirts, a light fleece and a belay jacket, plus a down vest wrapped round my feet, and surprisingly spend a near-comfortable night.
T:
F: Alpine Cloggy approach training: Mazzaspitze hike. 715 metres height gain, 1:15. (Horizontal distance further than the Wengahorn, definitely not actually in any way slower  )
S: Mobility, knee physio & stabilizer exercises
S: Drive Munich to Calais in pouring rain. Hard work. Stopped at Blochütte in Augsburg for an indoor bouldering break en route: haven't been to a wall at the weekend for ages, had almost forgotten how horrible it is.

[webbo]

7324 calories used.

  get that man a kebab

Time for some carb supplements

Yes I spent the day after topping up my glycogen and fatty acid levels by drinking beer and eating chips. 

[iain]

Webbo 

Habrich, the full time climber life is suiting you.


STG: Infinite Gravity before Sept>mid-October or the weather crapping out, whichever is first.
Get down to 62kg by 7th Sept, 63.5 this morning, too much crap this week

Mon: Long bouldering session doing several more of the purple/white circuits including a couple I couldn't do a few weeks ago.

Tues: Away

Wed: Away

Thurs: Bouldered to warm up then 3 redpoints on the 7b+ but kept falling on the same powerful (for me) move. 10 seconds rest and could then continue to the end.

Fri: Warmed up then 1 go on the same 7b+ with the same result. Finger feeling tweaky so switched to the 7b and wound up doing 5 reps every 10ish mins, last 2 reps needed rest to complete.

Sat: Rest

Sun: Short bouldering session but not recovered from Fri. Went home to watch the excellent comp.


Friday's circuit session was really satisfying. Not only was I lapping something I couldn't redpoint a month ago, IG is 3 sections of a similar intensity separated by rests so to I managed close to double the volume needed in a session. I was kind of aiming for this but had began doubting whether I could do it.

Goal this week is to try 2 sets of 3 laps with less rest in a set, with ultimate aim being 3 continuous laps (although I don't expect to be able to do this in the short term)

[kelvin]

Bloody hell webbo! Effort!

Been a bit of a week both emotionally and with work and only just finished 15hrs today. So surprised I got anything done at all, my head was seriously all over the place and sacked off climbing as just didn't feel I could concentrate well enough to be safe.

Two finger sessions, both foot on and used the smallest campus rail when I could first time and exclusively the second. 14 x 7/3 per set. Utterly mullered forearms to be fair and did the second workout on Friday - have to say, the fingers feel strong today, so gonna head down the wall tomorrow and see how they are.

Weightloss for Montserrat is going well, less than three weeks to go now. No scales that work but my fave jeans are lots looser. 

[nai]

Webbo 

goals: 8a & E4

M - quick fingerboard session, held low slots for the first time in ages (probably due to cooler nick)

T - Morning: garage open-hand bouldering
     afternoon: 8km run
     evening: core, managed some decent form levers.

W - garage Ancap, bit experimental as previous session hadn't felt at the right intensity. After a couple of sets settled for this format:

Activity time set to 1:50. 1 rep of 18 move circuit takes 45-50 seconds so climb it once, rest 10-15 seconds then repeat. Rest time of five minutes between burns. Aim to do six sets.  Managed seven today but with a couple of fails in sets 6&7.

Obviously looking to eliminate the rest between the two reps and decrease it between sets. Does that sound like a decent formula for PE/Ancap work or completely whack?

T - rest

F - bouldering with body tension lockoffs afterwards, evening core but struggled to do the levers

S- Ancap - 5 consecutive laps of 20 move easy circuit to get a pump on then 1:50 on, 4:00 off. failed move 30/36 final lap but rested 5s and finished off. Felt a decent workout.

[T_B]

STG - Get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October
LTG - ?

85.2Kg

M -
T - Weighted deadhangs a la Eva Lopez. With 10Kg on a 20mm edge. Some lock offs and 1-5-8 on big rungs.
W - Anston p.m. Bit damp. Got pocket round the lip of Dark Art 4 times. Grrr!
T - Works. 12 burly problems on comp wall and core work.
F - Weighted deadhangs as per Tuesday. Tired!
S -
S - Smeggy Tor - Powerband area wet. Had a go at Cave problem but don't like the stress on your right knee. Repeated Ben's Roof 3rd go.

Quite a hard week. Disappointed not to do Dark Art, but know I can do it. Shame conditions there are fickle and not sure I'll have another opportunity to get on it before N'umberland. Felt good to do Ben's Roof relatively easily having only ever done it once 3 years ago 

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Dinbren - Got back on the 7c, Linked from the floor to the undercut on the crux. So basically half way up. Managed to figure out a not so gnarly way of doing the crux. Still feels hard though!

W: Rest

T: Packing

F: 5 hour drive down to Swanage

S: Lulworth - Amazing place, doesn't look like somewhere in the UK! Fell off trying to onsight a big roundabout F6a trav called the Maypole as I didn't take chalk and it was extremely greasy. Did it easily in hightide.

Tried the classic Horny Lil Devil F7a, fell off 4 times after only a few moves.

S: Conner Cove - Massive contrast from Lulworth another awesome place. Had hoped there would be more for my girlfriend to do but it's an intimidating place for beginners, did Troubled Waters F5 twice and watched some friends on Freeborn Man, wanted to try it but we headed back to Lulworth instead. Regret not doing it really but at least I have the beta now!

Back at Lulworth I tried the F7a another 3 times and got further than the previous day. I'm pretty useless on steep juggy stuff. When there are massive holds but not so good feet I'm useless!

Might as well include Monday too:

M: Portland, Blacknor - Did some amazing 3 star routes. Fallen Slab & Fallen Slab Arete both F3. Also did Sling Shots F5 and Reptile Smile F6a+ both 3 star classics on amazing flowstone. I got pumped on the 6a+ pinching tufa's!

Really wanted to try Englands Dreaming F7a+ or Wolfgang Forever F7a but the sun was baking the wall making the easy stuff feel hard and we had to head home.

4:30 hour drive back home!

Really enjoyed the trip even though I didn't climb anywhere near as well as I thought I would. Not managing the 7a was a real leveler for me...

Mainly, it meant alot to me that my girlfriend did plenty of climbing as she's very nervous and scared of heights. The highlight of the trip for me was her getting to the top of Sling Shots F5. Certainly the highest/hardest route she has done!

[duncan]

Luke, glad you had a good trip even if you didn't quite achieve your goals. It's harder to perform if you are new to an area and the climbing not your usual style. It's particularly hard when you are shepherding someone else, don't underestimate how much this drains your own energy. It's a good long-term investment if your GF enjoyed herself.


STG: Don’t get injured, maintain fitness, regain the faith.
MTG: OS E5; RP 7b
LTG: Long rock routes in Alps and USA

Week 183
M - More beer and strudel.
T - Fly home from Munich
W -
T -
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Shoulder stability stuff, a few deadhangs
S - Shoulder stability stuff, a few deadhangs

Week 184
M - Westway - routes to F6b. Feeble!
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Shoulder stability stuff, a few deadhangs
T -
F - Westway - more routes to F6b. Not quite so feeble.
S - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Fairlop. 30 or so problems to UK5c, in between larking around with offspring.

I should be taking advantage of fitness and reasonable weather but struggling a bit with motivation post-Dolomites. It’s hard to be inspired by sweaty climbing walls or three+ hour drives in holiday traffic. I’m sure enthusiasm will return, so aim currently is to keep doing something to maintain fitness.

[cheque]

It's particularly hard when you are shepherding someone else, don't underestimate how much this drains your own energy.

  -not worth the effort in my opinion.

Driving for hours and hours for a few days climbing is also a performance-killer if you can't share the driving too, I find.

Wish list for Red River Gorge in October (not much change in progress this week):

1-Endurance ‘for days’ on steep, juggy/ open-handed rock. Going well- pretty much nailed this up to around 6a/+ level.
2-Ability to recover on a jug on steep ground. Going well.
3-Ability to do a steep 6A/ 6A+ when pumped silly. Going OK. Needs doing more on a rope.
4-Psyche and ability to go “a muerte” even when pumped and facing massive whipper. Needs work.
5-Stoic tolerance of caffeinated soft drink and pizza
Likely to go backwards as now living with healthy vegan girlfriend.

M- Rest.
T- Notts Depot. Finished off last weeks remaining red problems- turns out it was 5 rather than 4- got three first go this sesh, one after 2 goes but the one everyone found toughest needed another 5 or so attempts. Encouraged to not only burn a few other aspirants off it, but to be able to hang around on the huge unpositive undercut crux that everyone else was being spat off. Did 4x4s on steep V3s on the comp wall- intense- didn't properly complete each set and totally failed on the last! 3x30 foot-on moves 1-3 on the wooden campus board balls.
W- Rest. Feeling pretty tired.
T- Edge routes. Nastily hot and humid & arrived late due to roadworks. Warm-up felt hard and dogged steep 6b+ afterwards. Redpointed 6b+ next go- felt way too hard and triceps cramp set in around the final bolt and wouldn't go away. Mileage on two 6as and a 5+ after, the latter two being on the steepest bit of the wall- not even slightly pumped despite being really tired.
F- Rest.
S- Rest.
S- 7 mile coastal walk on yorkshire coast.
M- Swimming in the sea at Bridlington!

In contrast with most of the heroics  I got burnt-out this week, a result of too much indoor climbing and too little recovery between hard sessions. Second week running indoor routes (closest thing I have to climbing in the Red) suffered. Had a nice holiday weekend and now trying to decide what to do this week.

[tomtom]

Luke, glad you had a good trip even if you didn't quite achieve your goals. It's harder to perform if you are new to an area and the climbing not your usual style.

+1 yup - always takes me a while to 'recalibrate' to a different type/style of rock...

[Luke Owens]

Luke, glad you had a good trip even if you didn't quite achieve your goals. It's harder to perform if you are new to an area and the climbing not your usual style. It's particularly hard when you are shepherding someone else, don't underestimate how much this drains your own energy. It's a good long-term investment if your GF enjoyed herself.

Thanks Duncan, I was happy to enjoy climbing irrelevant of "trying hard" or "grades" and enjoy climbing great routes in great places. Something I don't do often enough at home and always end up seeking out something hard.

I hadn't really prepared for the trip as only knew we were going a week before we left! Also had no idea where we were going or what the climbing would be like. Friends invited us and we just went along with there plans.

[Eddies]

Monday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Tuesday: 4x4’s with 5min rests (completed) and Core test (with 2kg ankle and wrist weights)
Wednesday: F-Board Session – Repeaters (2 sets of 6reps @ 7secs on/3secs off using 5 different grips and finishing each set with assisted one-armer 90deg max hangs for each arm using the 20mm edge - 2.5min rests between reps, 5 min rests between sets)
Thursday: Cheedale – Max Wall
Friday: REST - AWAY
Saturday: REST - AWAY
Sunday: REST - AWAY

[krymson]

Luke i would kill to get that much outdoor climbing in a week. Sounds like a bloody fantastic time, grades or not, and it sounded like you did pretty well anyways.

Weather in my parts is still damnably hot and humid so it's indoor climbing till Autumn

M Rest
T Rest
W 5 hours of climbing volume. sent 45 problems 2 or 3  grades below my level,  to  improve onsighting ability and tackle some mental weaknesses("fighting", route memorization and visualizing feet from above). felt knackered and it seemed like a useful session - onsighted 70% of the problems.
Th rest
F Rest some more
Sa ~6 hours at the gym. Focused on hard links for first 4 hours, had light dinner and then attempted 4x4's in the last hour. hard links went well. Only got halfway through 4x4s, unsurprisingly.
Su R&R

Did get out to the local seaside crag yesterday with a local chalkbag company for a video shoot - amazing place regardless if you climb or not. Looking forward to Fall temps.

[shark]

M.Spot of bouldering at Ailefroide.
T. Fessourier with family and met up with Team North West. Good crag. Got pumped solid and flew off a 7a+ then did the same ona 6c+. Woeful stamina. 
W.Walk up to Glacier Blanc.
T.  Intermittent deadhangs then Rafting.
F. Tournaux with Team NW. Did a little better though fell off a 7a route only to flash the 7b extension  . Eve Intermittent deadhangs
S. Lazy day at chalet 
S. Mont Dauphin. Good family session at Sector4 then enduro climbing into the evening with Team NW at sector Raph

Generally impressed with Ailefroide / Briancon area. I reckon we'll be back next year. The sport climbing is pretty good. There is a new guide and it looks like lots of new sport lime crags have been opened up recently.

[Sasquatch]

Been a while, But I need to get my game on if I hope to hit my goals for the fall.
STG - 8A+ Local Project
MTG - God Module(8A) in HP 40 in Early Oct (prob have crap conditions, so may not go so well)
MTG2 - Go back and finish off Mandala
LTG -

Monday - Max Hang/Campus Complex training with Deadlifts at 2xBW during rests. Run 4mi plus x-fit style 50's
Tuesday - Yoga, and easy active recovery climbing
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - Run 2mi, Max Hang/Campus Complex training with Deadlifts at 2xBW during rests. Climb 12 routes in 4 sets of 3 5.10/5.11/5.10, then 5.11/5.12/5.11 sets.
Friday - Run 5mi, easy active recovery climbing
Saturday - Boulder outside.  Clean and climb new 2 new v4/5ish problems, then added a kind of crappy new v9/10ish problem and a stellar new v11ish problem.  Need some other strong guys to give it a shot.  If so, it's my first 8A in a day.....  Did loads of hiking and exploring in the rain as well. Found a bunch of really good looking new stuff to clean and climb..... 
Sunday - Easy 2mi recovery run

Good week overall.

[Muenchener]

Generally impressed with Ailefroide / Briancon area.

Me too. My mate is dangerously close to convincing me the traverse of the Meije might be a good idea.

[Duma]

Webbo -   
Luke - don't sweat it, from what I've read on here Lulworth must be your complete anti-style, amazing though isn't it?

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Up late, but got run in before work: 6m 49min. Sleep poor
T - nap after work for 1.5hrs as knackered from poor sleep prev night. TCA for fingerboard rehab stuff. Sleep poor.
W - nap as above, then run: 6m 47min - really pleased with this, still not "fit" obviously, but bit of a breakthrough I think as felt slow and heavy on way round. Sleep poor.
T - nap as above. daughter in eve. Sleep good.
F - Took Chloe to wall for first time in a month or so, seemed to have fun. Sleep ok.
S - Chloe in morning, then drive to dartmoor to meet mate. Plan was an evening session at bonehill, but knackered when I got there so had a beer and chatted instead. Sleep ok.
S - Berry Head DWS - Magical Mystery Tour incl blue grotto. High tide so swam green grotto. Amazing, maybe the best route I've ever done. then over to White Rhino Tea buttress - White Rhino Tea (think I went into the route to the left at the crux, but did it again via the approved sequence on Mon and reckon it was harder if anything), Cavewoman, Pink Roadster. Fucking awesome day, and there was more to come on Monday. Amazing crag, can't believe I'd never been before. Sleep good.

69-70kg.

Sleep key: poor < 6.5hrs; ok 6.5hrs - 7.5hrs; good 7.5hrs - 8.5hrs; loads > 8.5hrs

[Luke Owens]

Luke - don't sweat it, from what I've read on here Lulworth must be your complete anti-style, amazing though isn't it?

Thanks Duma, Lulworth is the complete opposite of what I'm used to climbing. It's what I want to be good at, steep big moves on good holds! It's an amazing place and staring up at Mark of The Beast is so inspiring as a line, one day, one day!

...but then I think if I got good at that style it would be useless to me as theres nothing like that locally?! Dilemma!

I guess I know what to prepare for next trip!

S - Berry Head DWS - Magical Mystery Tour incl blue grotto. High tide so swam green grotto. Amazing, maybe the best route I've ever done. then over to White Rhino Tea buttress - White Rhino Tea (think I went into the route to the left at the crux, but did it again via the approved sequence on Mon and reckon it was harder if anything), Cavewoman, Pink Roadster. Fucking awesome day, and there was more to come on Monday. Amazing crag, can't believe I'd never been before. Sleep good.

Berry Head looks awesome! Sounds like you had a great day, good ticks!

Will have to get down there some time.