[Jaspersharpe]

Nice. Hope it works out.

[comPiler]

Ilkley
16 November 2014, 1:18 pm

I could describe the weather yesterday as quite grey, a bit miserable, bloody windy, tad wet and to...

Source: Living with wads

[Duncan campbell]

This blog is really good!

[Fiend]

Normally it seems to be written specifically for people in the OP's social circle.....but in this case that was a nice entry indeed.

[andy_e]

That shit, hole in the ground problem Will Hunt keeps banging on about is actually very, very good. It would be amazing if it were facing the other way, out of the pit and not into it!

[Stubbs]

You also forgot eliminate in the description of the shit hole in the ground problem!

[tomtom]

I see Mr Hunt has form then....

[Fiend]

It would be amazing if it were facing the other way, out of the pit and not into it!

fuck me, gonna add that to the wishlist then...

[Will Hunt]

Which shit, hole-in-the-ground problem is this? There are so many...

[Will Hunt]

For a minute, before I read the blog, I though someone had repeated Northern Rail. I'll continue to dream of the day.

[lagerstarfish]

Did Optimus Prime get written up in the new guidebook?

[nathanie1]

It's not in the index, there's a route called Warriors of the Wasteland (E6 6b) which I think may be the same line.

[lagerstarfish]

that's why I was asking really

thanks

[comPiler]

Rodeo Roaches
25 December 2014, 12:50 am

Twas the night before the Roaches, when all through the hut no climber was stirring, not even Tom...

Source: Living with wads

[Will Hunt]

I've been complimented in Living with Wads. This is the best Christmas ever.

[comPiler]

The weekend weather forecast
21 January 2015, 12:30 am

Wondering where to go climbing this weekend? Unsure whether to trust the weather forecast...

Source: Living with wads

[James Malloch]

Skipton moor was nice for running, and Simons seat for walking.

It's the return of the cliff this weekend! (Or maybe Leeds wall...)

[comPiler]

The golden hour
28 April 2015, 10:41 pm

Yesterday (well actually Sunday) I went to Almscliff for precisely 6.30pm. 2 hours before spotting...

Source: Living with wads

[Grubes]

no! living with wads has been blocked at work.
How am I meant to sit here pretending to do work if they block things on the internet 

Any chance the full blog can be pulled here?

[tomtom]

The golden hour
Yesterday (well actually Sunday) I went to Almscliff for precisely 6.30pm. 2 hours before spotting footholds would become difficult, 30 minutes before the grit cranked up the velcro factor. I love walking up the all too familiar path, the small tricep assisted squeeze through the notch in the wall, your mind focussed on todays goal.

In my mind were two solitary crimps. The left one has three fingers tightly stacked, a thumb curls around them protectively on a small natural notch. On the right crimp, trembling white fingertips, each trying not to push the other off the depressingly small ledge they share. They’re lifting 70kgs of dumb and they can certainly feel it.

Before I get to business I warm up on two problems I’m not acquainted with. Teaspoon Variation Left and The Little Greeny. Whilst dumping my bag and pads on the grassy slopes looking for a place to lob my banana skin I look up and see Naomi Buys waving at me from the mid height rest on Big Greeny. ‘Hello’, I say and wave back. Immediately I realise Naomi is actually shaking out and not waving at a complete stranger in a once blue down jacket. Luckily I come across as a bit of a muppet and what would normally be an awkward moment is instantly diffused. Naomi, being very kind and not a muppet, waves back and returns my hello. Jordan wonders who the muppet in the dirty coat is.

image
Is she waving or shaking out? Act like a London commuter to save embarrassment.

Teaspoon variation goes quickly and I’m standing above Little Greeny shortly after. I think I’ve now actually done all the 7a’s at the Cliff (bar the massively eliminate ones). Time for the goal, time to focus again. As I walk around to the main face of high man the wind drops and the two crimps I’ve had in my mind the past 30 minutes come into view.

The week before Nathaniel and I had gone to try Jess’ Roof which, despite finding a human shit in the cave, is an excellent problem. We didn’t tick, but the potential of landing in poo meant we put extra effort into not falling off. As the horizon swallowed the sun whole and night befell us, we quickly threw the pads down and hurried to Stu’s Roof. Taking it in turns to wear the only head torch, one would point and the other would climb using the small beam of light to navigate their way over lumpy crimps. I fall off the small break on Stu’s Roof Left, cursing into the night, but I was spent and it was time to go home.

Now I was back and the glowing sun was flirting with the treeline. I had a good hour yet before dark. On my second go I fall off both hands in the small break with my feet scrabbling on the face. Instead of cursing like last time, I lie on my pads, drape my asbestos rag of down jacket around me and close my eyes. I count to 60. My heart was beating hard and fast and I felt nervous having fallen off the jugs. In this situation it has been suggested to break down the problem into individual moves, enjoy the climbing and don’t think about the end goal. I brush myself down and concentrate on the first move, just enjoy the climbing…

My foot slips and I fall off the first move.

Balls to that. I flex and clench my fingers and think only of the break. I think of how the rock is weak and has exposed itself to assault. All too quickly I am I rocking onto my right heel but haven’t generated enough momentum. I readjust my left hand ever so slightly and keep pulling onwards to the break. My right hand pierces the break like a knights lance thrust through his opponents visor. I match the break and throw again for the juggy ear. Cautiously I begin to stand up, a shaking hand feels for the top. ‘If I pop off now I’m going to sell this pad that doesn’t belong to me’, I think to myself. 

I don’t cheer, nor whoop nor dance. I allow myself a smile and let the waves of relief wash over me, it’s the satisfaction of a job well done. I traverse off, pack my stuff and walk down the grassy hill back to my car, the golden light still dancing on it’s silver top.

I hope Jordan doesn’t realise there’s a banana skin in his rope bag.

[Wood FT]

brilliant

[fatneck]

Very good! 

[Grubes]

good blog as usual
Wonder if Nike Air will see this

[Will Hunt]

Ben - Embarrassing himself in front of wads since that time he asked Steve Mac to sign his guidebook at Malham.

Well done on ticking. What's the project now? A quick trip to Pike Stones?

[36chambers]