[SA Chris]

I'm off to the quiet county for the weekend. What are essential easier probs down there in thew V0-V3 range (Northumberland B0-B4 I guess, whats that grading sytem all about?) I got the guide, but it's not very forthcoming about whats hot, whats not. Will probably be in the northern half; Kyloes and Bowdens. All I've done before is Y Front, which I found OK, but it was pretty cold then.

Prefer up probs, not too highbally and not traverses unless they are ultraclassic.

Ta People.

[Bonjoy]

The Albatross at Kyloe-out is a good roof prob, probably V3/4 ish.

[Andy B]

Off the top of my head, at that grade range:

Most of the stuff around the aretes at Rothley is good at around that grade, better quality problems and rock than Shaftoe, just not as extensive.

The problems at the left end of Kyloe In are, I think, all good, and in that grade range: elf direct, swan wall, red rum (might be a bit harder) bad finger, bad company and the pearler.

Back Bowden: some of the roof problems like the sorcerer and the vole and most of the problems on the boulders are good.

Re. the guide I would suggest Using it as best you can but ignoring the B grades altogether as they are totally random, with massive differences between crags.

[Paul B]

cave left at bowden, cave right harder but a classic, Y front ramp and transformer both at bowden.
All the problems along the left hand end of kyloe in (apologies for lack of names) and some slab ones underneath the T crack area further along, Shaftoe is ok but not the most extensive area, although some very fine problems on the cob in that range.
Also the V3? groove on the large boulder to the left of the cob is amazing, not very hard just a bit highball, nice moves right till the end.
Back bowden has a few roof problems, but you cant climb too late there because of the access issues.

[sharkey]

< Albatross fine roof problem Kyloe out V3/4 ish >  :shock:

Nice one Bonjoy, so what grade do you really think  V7/8
 it looks like quite a span, any joy ? got totaly spanked on it a few years ago - fookin desperate

[Andy B]

cave left at bowden, cave right harder but a classic, Y front ramp and transformer both at bowden.

Back bowden has a few roof problems, but you cant climb too late there because of the access issues.

I reckon Y front ramp is harder than V3, but its been a few years. I second cave left and transformer though.

On the access front at Back Bowden, the sign says off the crag by 6.30 but as far as I am aware this is because  it was put up in winter, when dusk was at this time, and apparently access is OK until whatever time dusk is, because the access issues relate to stopping people biviing at the crag, rather than climing in the evening. Ensure you don't block the gate though.

[Bonjoy]

< Albatross fine roof problem Kyloe out V3/4 ish >  :shock:

Nice one Bonjoy, so what grade do you really think  V7/8
 it looks like quite a span, any joy ? got totaly spanked on it a few years ago - fookin desperate

 Sorry, was guessing the grade off a pretty hazy memory. Am pretty sure it was no more than V6 tho. Bloody good tho, as was the roof to its left.

[sharkey]

Some must do's  :wink:
Doveholes
Moorish idol  V4 a real gem, lots of problems in V0 - V3 range here a nice circuit on sandstone tors
 
Bowden
Cave Lefthand more like V4  and classic
Y front V4 for sure
Light bulb problem V3 ultraclassic  (far left hand side of crag and given B5 in guide)

Raven crag
The bouldering here is probably better than Bowden , Grand wall and meadow walls good for V0 - V3

Rothley
Hanging Arete V3 as said many other quality V3's here

Shaftoe
Classic Arete best V3 in the county  :D

[Paul B]

andyb:
 im not sure if you're correct assuming that access depends on when the light runs out i think. Check with steve crowe at smartboysonline.co.uk sure he'll sort out.

Y front ramp:  maybe a bit stiff for V3 but no more than v4 surely?
now for a sandbag try Y front ramp!!! a tad tricky especially for the vertically challenged. :D

At bowden theres that crack and slap right near childs play: thats good.
And further along, just right of the fingery wall theres a good one up theres but mind ur ankle on the rock just below even when padded.
And the sandy boulder just to the right of childs play (v4) very err... err  :twisted:  fun.

Nice easy (soft touch v5) on the lone boulder on the walk to poverty (just on the left) bit of a one move wonder but worth the detour. :D

[hongkongstuey]

now for a sandbag try Y front ramp!!! a tad tricky especially for the vertically challenged. :D

i don't think Mr Fryer has anything to worry about on the 'vertically challenged' front - he can large his way through almost anything  :wink:

[SA Chris]

Blah, blah, blah. Press replay. see comment below