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Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking (Read 3518 times)

Jack.G

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Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 09:39:56 am
Visiting friends in Derbyshire next week and will have time for a couple of sessions bouldering. Plan to visit the Roaches, have not been before so will just be enjoying some mileage on grit and plum picking up to font6a.

Currently on the hit list are, Classic Arete and Ascent of Man Start at lower tier and Joe's Arete at upper tier.

Would anyone have any recommendations of low grade "worth going our of your way for" problems?
« Last Edit: August 01, 2014, 09:48:19 am by Jack.G »

Krank

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#1 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 10:09:39 am
what grade range you after?

dontfollowme

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#2 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 10:20:02 am
Three Pocket Slab is very good.


Gus

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#3 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 10:21:22 am
Off the top of my head:

"Three Pocket Slab", Lower tier: Gets 6a but is probably pretty stern. Cracking though, one of the best!
"Stretch Left" on the same boulder is really good if you've got the reach!
"Joe's Arete", Upper Tier: either technique it out, or jump!
"Violence", Spring boulders: Cool, tech scoopage
"Don's Crack" Upper Tier Boulders: A great feature
"Wing Wong" Upper tier boulders
"Babbacombe start" and ""oik" at the base of the crag are worth checking out, and "Bombay Overhang" further down the hill!
"Right Groove" 6a, and the slightly harder "Left Groove" 6b, on the upper tier boulders are good!
and the "Big Traverse" of the section of the crag proper beneath the sloth should be a good pump out!

It'd be well worth checking out the 'doxeys Pool" collection of boulders on the skyline (to be honest you could probably spend your whole session here!) well worth pushing the boat out and trying "staffordshire flyer" at 6b.

Hopefully that's enough to get you psyched, there's plenty more. Three Pocket Slab, Don's Crack and Staffordshire Flyer would be my top 3 I reckon!

Enjoy!

Johnny Brown

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#4 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 10:30:09 am
Well worth a trip up to far skyline too, forget the names but the stuff just beyond the Wings of Unreason buttress. I prefer this area to Doxey's.

Newstones are well worth a visit too.

Jack.G

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#5 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 10:31:24 am
Outstanding, thanks Gus! Should have a couple of sessions so may spend one at Doxey's Pool and the other a circuit on the Lower and Upper Tiers. Psyched!

tim palmer

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#6 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 10:57:52 am
A little wander round to baldstones/newstones is also worthwhile for some nice low grade stuff. 

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 11:02:06 am
Gus has it all down. I recall 3 pockets being ace, and Joes Arete being horifically polished, but still good.

If you are planning a session at very far skyline area (which JB refers to) you can park at the far end of the crag and avoid parking issues at Lower Tier parking. There is also some great stuff at the Newstones and Baldstones too. I've got the guidebook if you want to grab it on the way down the road.

edit - Tim types faster!

the_dom

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#8 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 11:04:57 am
I'll second 3 Pocket Slab, Joe's Arete and Staffordshire Flyer as some of the best easy classics on grit.

Jack.G

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#9 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 01:09:32 pm
Thanks Chris, I have the VP Peak Bouldering guide on order.


SA Chris

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#10 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 01:39:10 pm
That's what I was offering, earlier version. It's a great guide, essential OTB reading.

Bonjoy

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#11 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 01, 2014, 01:54:48 pm
Original Starlight and Storm 6C - http://peakbouldering.info/areas/2-western-grit/crags/60-hen-cloud/boulders/282-the-aiguille/problems/1185-original-starlight-and-storm#.U9uNwqOBqqg . Only a few minutes walk from the Roaches. The best grade six prob in Staff IMO.

Sloper

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#12 Re: Roaches Low Grade Plum Picking
August 11, 2014, 12:11:07 pm
Agreed, but worth remembering (if memory serves) that the one up the front has an ankle breaking hole in the ground and needs properly matting as unless you're a grit go you will fall off.

 

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