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When to go beach bouldering. (Read 4953 times)

Bonjoy

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When to go beach bouldering.
June 08, 2004, 01:32:12 pm
Was down in Dorset last week route climbing and discovered a brilliant new hard project down near the sea. Hurrah! Only problem was that it was pissing wet due to being in the shade and covered by the tide  for part of the day.
 So then, when would be the best time of year to revisit, what type of weather is best for dryng sea caves (cool dry, hot dry, windy, freezing) and is there any online tide info?
 Cheers now.

samJ

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#1 When to go beach bouldering.
June 08, 2004, 04:36:05 pm
Tide prediction:

http://www.ukho.gov.uk/tideprediction.cfm

As for the rest I've no idea...

Bonjoy

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#2 When to go beach bouldering.
June 08, 2004, 05:26:12 pm
Cheers, tah.

SA Chris

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#3 When to go beach bouldering.
June 08, 2004, 05:30:56 pm
Sun and cool breeze seem to have best drying effect. I guess offshore wind is dryer than onshore, but not sure if will get into a cave. Suppose a period of calm seas and neap tides will get the rock to its driest, depending how close it is to High and Low water marks. Pretty hard to predict though. Try liberal amounts of chalk?

Pantontino

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#4 When to go beach bouldering.
June 08, 2004, 06:56:14 pm
Lots of different factors (obviously wind and sunshine are very important), but at a subtle level some crags dry faster in winter because the algae dies away leaving bare rock. (this is certainly true at Angel Bay). Conversely other crags seem to hold less surface micro veg material in the summer. I'm not sure why - probably something to do with ambient temperatures, sunlight, etc. It may also be related to the whether there is a sand or pebble beach. Pebble beach crags tend to be cleaner, smoother and more covered in slopers.

I guess you just need to experiment with a few different visits across the seasons - always on a windy day though.

Bonjoy

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#5 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 10:06:37 am
Yeah, i figured it might involve a complex interplay of factors. Bit of  a shitter really, as Dorset isn't exactly somewhere i can pop down to after work. :roll:

T.H.

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#6 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 10:16:57 am
Your best bet is to PM Mr. K.  He's a bit of a Dorset legend and is probably aware of your project.  I know he's got something in a cave which he hasn't done down on Portland.  Either way, he's bound to have good knowledge of the rock characteristics down there.

Stu Littlefair

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#7 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 02:25:44 pm
I'll tell you what, lad.

Why not send me exact details of the location of your project and I'll nip over there all nice and regular. Just to check conditions for you, you understand?

Pantontino

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#8 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 03:23:48 pm
"Honest guv, I only went up to check out the holds, and the next thing I know, this crab walks across and parks himself on me pad. Fing is right, I'm a buddhist and I can't be allowing meself to kill an innocent creature by landing on it from such a dangerous height, so I had no choice but to carry on to the top. Broke my heart to have to make the first ascent of your special project I can tell ya."

"You err, got any other projects you'd like me to go and check out. just to make sure that they're alright, no loose holds 'n' all that. don't worry, I won't tell a soul, just between you and me guv. Sweet."

"You off to the bar, eh? I would, but me leg's gone innit. Oh nice one guv, I'll have a couple pints of old grumpy cock and a treble whiskey chaser if you don't mind, cheers, guv, you're a star...oh, and a couple of packs of pork scratchings would go down a treat...Cheers, guv."

Bubba

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#9 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 03:27:44 pm
:D  :D  - Good post Si.

See ya'all in a weeks time...I'm off to Ibiza for some chillage  :D  :D

Bonjoy

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#10 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 03:27:55 pm
:lol:  Indeed, I think divulging the county and the fact it's by the sea is quite enough info.

a dense loner

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#11 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 05:20:35 pm
enough info? one can also surmise it's a traverse wi heel toes/hooks along a good length of it  :D

Bonjoy

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#12 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 09:29:55 pm
Maybe the odd toe-hook, what of it? It's got 3 of the best/juggiest monos i've ever seen ever tho.

 Jeepers Dense we've both just acheived the dubious distinction of becoming forum abusers  :oops:  :oops:  :oops: . Half way to four figures.

a dense loner

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#13 When to go beach bouldering.
June 09, 2004, 10:58:12 pm
Quote
Jeepers Dense we've both just acheived the dubious distinction of becoming forum abusers    . Half way to four figures.


oh shit!   :oops:
 
problem wi 3 mono's on it, juggy or not, thats a rare find. unless u move rheinstor to hull or blackpool. saw a vid on udo newmanns site of toni lamprecht doin a pop/dyno to a mono on some frankenjura 8b? looked amazin n only a bit nasty  :shock:

T.H.

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#14 When to go beach bouldering.
June 10, 2004, 11:52:14 am
Well you've gone and done it now.

Juggy monos eh?

With that description I'm almost certain I know exactly where it is.

Bonjoy

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#15 When to go beach bouldering.
June 10, 2004, 11:58:23 am
Feel free to PM me with a guess and i'll tell you if you're right.

Bonjoy

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#16 When to go beach bouldering.
June 10, 2004, 01:33:04 pm
Turns out i'm not the only one to spy this one (cheers tubbs). So seeing as there's nothing to hide, check this bad boy out :shock:  :
 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=5501

SA Chris

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#17 When to go beach bouldering.
June 10, 2004, 02:31:13 pm
Funny, as soon as I read your first post that picture of jimbo's sprung to mind. Still a project though, so the race is on.

T.H.

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#18 When to go beach bouldering.
June 10, 2004, 03:27:11 pm
That's the one.

Jimbo reckons its about 8b, but you know that anyway.

I'm under the impression it doesn't get dry enough to work very often, so a real legend needs to get on it, although the man himself may come on here and tell you all about it himself (if his fingers are working after last nights campus board beasting, I know mine are making some funny creaking noises).

a dense loner

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#19 When to go beach bouldering.
June 10, 2004, 09:34:50 pm
can i just say that is the shittest lookin bit of rock i have ever seen  :shock:

Bonjoy

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#20 When to go beach bouldering.
June 11, 2004, 08:29:00 am
It's pretty good in the flesh honest. I don't think it suites the black and white look.

a dense loner

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#21 When to go beach bouldering.
June 11, 2004, 09:05:46 am
ok i bow to your encyclopedic knowledge of probs. so it must be at least half decent   :worthy:

Bonjoy

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#22 When to go beach bouldering.
June 11, 2004, 09:18:44 am
Good job you said that Dense, or I might have had to use my newly spawned moderizing powers to edit your post . :bat:

Mr K

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#23 When to go beach bouldering.
June 12, 2004, 04:14:41 pm
It is a fine problem - I tried it a couple of years back and found it very hard. It is rarely dry and so various drying techniques are needed to allow progress. Could be linked into the route to make a Fr9a?!?! a la Fred Rouling thing - Akira... :twisted:
I couldn't get any heels in except right at the start and then after that it's all body tension off dinks... :?

Might have to give it a fresh look now it is a race. Luck would have it I can get on it every evening (providing the swell, tide, seepage, phase of moon and various other factors fall into place)  :D

JIMBO

PS. you do know it isn't natural don't you?   :roll:

a dense loner

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#24 When to go beach bouldering.
June 12, 2004, 06:37:55 pm
not them big red mono bolt-ons again, which are put back in when tides gone out givin u an instant dry prob?  :wink:

 

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