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When Saturday Comes - Dinbren (Read 2541 times)

Luke Owens

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When Saturday Comes - Dinbren
August 14, 2013, 11:54:36 am
Got on this yesterday eve. All feels pretty straight forward apart from what seems to be a massive move off the glued on crimp to a distant slot. It goes this way but hardly feels efficient!

I'm not a 7c climber so I'm probably missing something obvious!

Just interested if anyone has been on this? What beta did you use (if you can remember)?

I've heard rumors of a rockover...

Cheers!

andy popp

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#1 Re: When Saturday Comes - Dinbren
August 14, 2013, 12:40:19 pm
I can't remember what I did but pretty sure it didn't involve any craft shenanigans (caveat: I've only dogged this briefly so didn't spend ages refining a sequence suitable for redpointing).

JohnM

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#2 Re: When Saturday Comes - Dinbren
August 14, 2013, 12:55:40 pm
I am afraid that is the move.  Get the glued on crimp with the left hand from the undercuts, build your feet on poor footholds and make a long move to the edge.  Quite a hard one, took me longer than Flowers are for the Dead (which might get 7b+ now anyway).

Luke Owens

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#3 Re: When Saturday Comes - Dinbren
August 14, 2013, 01:10:48 pm
I am afraid that is the move.  Get the glued on crimp with the left hand from the undercuts, build your feet on poor footholds and make a long move to the edge.  Quite a hard one, took me longer than Flowers are for the Dead (which might get 7b+ now anyway).

Cheers John, glad we hadn't got it completely wrong!

I managed to throw past the slot on one attempt so all is not lost with that method! Thankfully the climbing up to that move doesn't seem too bad, shame the route is so damn sharp.

Hopefully it will be a first 7c for me soon!

Apparently Flowers is solid 7c now (used to be 7b+ in the guide).

Doylo

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#4 Re: When Saturday Comes - Dinbren
August 14, 2013, 04:43:00 pm
Think Flowers was always 7c really. Was when i did it 11 years ago. Orgasmatron from the ground, hard!!  :jaw:

Ally Smith

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#5 Re: When Saturday Comes - Dinbren
August 14, 2013, 04:55:25 pm
Just remembered one thing - there's a little bitty of a intermediate for the right hand that helps you set-up for the move, rather than doing it in one big move. Might make a difference to how hard it feel?

Luke Owens

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#6 Re: When Saturday Comes - Dinbren
August 15, 2013, 08:51:29 am
Just remembered one thing - there's a little bitty of a intermediate for the right hand that helps you set-up for the move, rather than doing it in one big move. Might make a difference to how hard it feel?

Yeah, the razor crimpy sidepull! Hard to tell if that help's for the right hand as the undercut is so good in comparision!

I accidently filmed a guy on it when I was filming an attempt on IPJF so i've got what looks like some really good beta for the feet now (The guy almost does it static and he's smaller than me!!). Looks like a right foot almost by right hand undercut nightmare. Some other tall guy just lanked it with low feet...  >:(

Psyched!

Think Flowers was always 7c really. Was when i did it 11 years ago. Orgasmatron from the ground, hard!!  :jaw:

The fact that Danny didn't do it in a session is disconcerting!

 

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