[ghisino]

not sure if this is the right forum for this other than the fact that the masters of indoor crack climbing training seem to be brits, anyway...

a while ago i've been building a mini adjustable crack machine i can hang on a pullup bar, a sort of beefy rock ring...

the problem is that as the wood is megaslick and i am a weak crack climber i will slip out of the thing way too soon, much sooner than if it was built out of granite or sandstone.

so i am wondering which way of adjusting the intensity is better, between two options:
a) foot on (which i am currently doing)
b) adding grip in the form of glued on sandpaper (not too coarse as i don't want to tape).


any thoughts?

[Hoseyb]

anything like this?
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2009/09/climbing-on-anvil.html

my solution was banding it with fingertape as you can see. that and oversizing the holes so I could put a slight positive taper on the jaws.

the downside is you get gooey with fingertape gunk.

Thinking about it, and talk I've heard about beastmaker's etc., you could use some really coarse sandpaper and sand inside the jaws to give it some grain to jam against.

If you are stacking or fisting then I'd say get some tape gloves made as the pressures on the skin in this sort of rig are going to make your skin sore.

On the plus side, stacking training like this is a fairly tendon friendly way of getting pretty mega hand strength, fingers the lot..

[ghisino]

looks very similar to mine!

thanks for the input

[Tommy]

Make yourself a re-usable tape glove or buy one of those horrible rubber tape gloves that are useless for anything but hanging on a crack machine!

[ghisino]

those horrible rubber tape gloves

completely off the initaial topic, i'm glad my feeling about them is backed up by some qualified opinion! 

tried them briefly in Orco and was disgusted, they made everything feel 2 french grades harder and much more painful compared to tape.
Yet a french wad i had the honour to belay was close enough to sending greenspit wearing those