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Psykovsky's Sequins (Read 23724 times)

Luke Owens

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#1 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 10:44:19 am
E10 7a??

shark

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#2 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 10:48:13 am
Whatever the grade turns out to be - well done Franco Cookson

Luke Owens

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#3 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 10:49:17 am
E10 7a??

There's banter about the grade going on on the other channel.

Irrelevent of it's grade the pinky mono's look awesome!

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 10:51:28 am
Sorry yes, Just blown away by big number. Looks nails, and regardless of grade, good effort.

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#5 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 10:52:27 am

Wood FT

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#6 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 11:01:08 am
mental, be good to see a picture of the full route or a video

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#7 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 11:31:00 am
good effort by franco. Looks fucking nails

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#8 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 11:35:34 am
Brilliant! Esoteric obsession at its finest!

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#9 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 12:58:24 pm
I like franco's interview with Jack on the other channel

Quote from: FUKC
We chatted to Franco about the route and he said:
"You can invent what I said if you like, as long as you make it funny! And please mention that Sam Marks, Dave Warburton, Matt Ferrier and Jake Hampshire all played an essential part in the ascent, as with all Moors new routes."

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#10 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 01:54:04 pm
I wonder what his pinky front levers are like


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#11 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 03:22:08 pm
Good work Franco, looks like a lovely bit of rock, I wonder if it's an old aid route? 

I look forward to the news of Mr Farnell's second ascent and downgrading after the weekend, unless he's just an armchair critic  ;)

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#12 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 03:26:13 pm
Judging from the handholds in that pic he should have called it Shaka http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaka_sign

Andy F

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#13 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 03:57:32 pm
Good work Franco, looks like a lovely bit of rock, I wonder if it's an old aid route? 

I look forward to the news of Mr Farnell's second ascent and downgrading after the weekend, unless he's just an armchair critic  ;)

Sorry, off on my hols with the family. On my armchair  ;D

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#14 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 02, 2013, 08:02:28 pm
Gutted. Just read the cocktalk thread expecting a comment from medwards but despite him being mentioned, nothing.

Have to say, this is a great effort from Franco but with his history of attention seeking and wind ups I'll take the grade with a large pinch of salt.

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#15 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 03, 2013, 07:57:24 am
Nice one Franco, impressive and esoteric.

petejh

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#16 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 03, 2013, 09:52:07 am
Are there many other routes where you have to use pinky's in mono's (instead of middle / index)?

Doylo

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#17 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 03, 2013, 11:01:50 am
Are there many other routes where you have to use pinky's in mono's (instead of middle / index)?
Are there many other routes where you have to use pinky's in mono's (instead of middle /
Make it Funky?

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#18 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 03, 2013, 11:55:53 am
Ok - now asking the same question to the tune of James Brown 'Sex Machine'?

Get on up...

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#19 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 03, 2013, 11:58:56 am
Are there many other routes where you have to use pinky's in mono's (instead of middle / index)?
Are there many other routes where you have to use pinky's in mono's (instead of middle /
Make it Funky?

I used my ring finger on that. Welcome to the Cruel World? (the crack one up on Scafell, may have name wrong)

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#20 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 04, 2013, 03:34:21 pm
Have to say, this is a great effort from Franco but with his history of attention seeking and wind ups I'll take the grade with a large pinch of salt.

Full marks Jasper

Quote from: http://www.climbmagazine.com/news/2013/08/cookson-climbs-moors-testpiece

You've given Psykovsky's Sequins a grade of E10 7a, those are big numbers, what was the reasoning behind that grade?
Mainly to wind people up and lay down the gauntlet!  I honestly have no idea how hard it is

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#21 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 04, 2013, 03:56:33 pm
"Basically, I realised that I thought Moors new routing was worth dying for"

Oh dear god.


" If people just went for things, even when the odds of survival were slim, then people could climb some outrageous stuff. "

I remember a very young Franco banging on about how unethical head pointing was and that onsite was the way forwards. That stopped when he realised he'd have to head point things to get stuff done that was hard for him.

Well done Franco it's a good effort and no doubt a fine new route with some unique looking moves but please just take a note out of young whittakers book and shut the fuck up.

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#22 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 04, 2013, 06:27:32 pm
He's come a long way from failing to dog Sardine

shark

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#23 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 04, 2013, 06:39:20 pm
He's come a long way from failing to dog Sardine

So did Dawes

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#24 Re: Psykovsky's Sequins
August 04, 2013, 07:17:07 pm
He's come a long way from failing to dog Sardine

So did Dawes

In a year?

 

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