[Kingy]

I think there may have been a thread on this route but I can't find it.

Does anybody know of a good way of getting over the bulge at the start? Going off the two small lip undercuts to the RH sloper with the RF buried and dropkneed in the good flake seemed the best we could do. Then what? Seemed a massive go again reach from there to the crimpy rail with the RH. Do you then put a LF toe hook in to match and hold the swing? Was very hot today so probably didn't help.

Any knowledge would be appreciated. BTW it is now clean and chalked.

[kc]

In resent years an unofficial sequence has been adopted by some that locks the sloper to go to the good hold LH. This suits the short and as the official sequence used a foot twist lock that has since dropped out.
I  remember going to the sloper as thus: with RH small lip under cut LH larger undercut lower down. Bump up to sloper foot lock drop LH into other small lip undercut, bump left foot up then role over to jug RH.

Make Sense?

[Kingy]

Great thanks, yes good that there are different methods to suit differing heights.

I will have a play there next time. I reckon to lock that sloper and reach up to the jug with your LH, you would have to have a LF toe hook in place under an undercut as the sloper is such a poor hold.

The only foot lock I can see is the one for the RF behind the big fragile looking flake. Interesting that there used to be another twist lock. Im not sure I will be able to go again for the jug with RH as it seemed so stretched and I can't see how to hold the cut loose so will try the unofficial sequence.

[kc]

Well as you know Ted, I am not exactly tall. You just got to bump that LF up and go for it. There is no cut loose swing issues involved when getting it with RH. Should be piss for "Super 8c Ted"

[Paul B]

The Bonjoy method didn't suit me at all instead I had to drop my LH violently into the next undercut before going again, it helped to angle my wrist to the right. At this point there's a little nick on the edge of the roof for the RF and the LF vaguely hooks something under the roof which allows a scrabbling match.

The footlock seemed to hinder the distance I could reach so I quickly moved on.

Le Sausage had an awesomely efficient looking sequence for this section.

[Kingy]

Excellent thanks for all the info, will give it another blast!

[Bonjoy]

What is an 'official sequence'??

[a dense loner]

I take it to mean anything without heels

[Ethan]

And knees...

[shark]

Or any form of originality

[Kingy]

Screw originality ;0)

[kc]

What is an 'official sequence'??

or an approved sequence.

A tried and tested sequence from a bygone era that ensured only the strong and worthy would succeed. Using too much technique at the expense of power was not the done thing.

Also no one else should have an easy time of it when all others had struggled.

Just ask Richie P and he will put you right!

[Stubbs]

'Approved Sequence' (n) bad beta developed by strong but technically lacking climbers from days of yore kept alive today by their similarly technically inept acolytes. See also: blinkers; no heels; kneebars are cheating.

[a dense loner]

And sleeping soundly assured

[Bonjoy]

What is an 'official sequence'??

or an approved sequence.

A tried and tested sequence from a bygone era that ensured only the strong and worthy would succeed. Using too much technique at the expense of power was not the done thing.

Also no one else should have an easy time of it when all others had struggled.

Just ask Richie P and he will put you right!

<cough>Revelations<Cough>
 

[shark]

<cough>Revelations<Cough>
 

 

[kc]

Sorry you lost me there???

[shark]

2 ascents in 5 minutes using the jump method

kristian - Lead RP - 24/Jun/00 with dave Skoczylas

[kc]

Which uses extra power and no technique. Like doing stuff footless you get extra wad points for that. There are permissible allowances as long as they are harder or more basic.

I do break the code from time to time. We can't all be perfect you know.

[Doylo]

Which uses extra power and no technique. Like doing stuff footless you get extra wad points for that. There are permissible allowances as long as they are harder or more basic.

I do break the code from time to time. We can't all be perfect you know.

I take it you won't be purchasing a 5.10 kneepad for Mecca Extension KC? 

[kc]

I'll be saving 8c til my mid forty's, if I'm not broken by then and it certainly won't be that route.