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7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!? (Read 9350 times)

rodma

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#25 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 17, 2013, 10:31:56 am
Does anyone else have any ideas for practicing mantles in an indoor environment?

Dips....

 :agree:

PLus, of you train at TCA, you can do a sort of lying down mantle exercise on the rings, with them set about a foot and a half off the floor. get one of the staff to show you.


SA Chris

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#26 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 17, 2013, 10:37:25 am
Sit under dining room table, then pull onto it. Make sure it's sturdy. otherwise any low wall will do.

Ti_pin_man

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#27 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 17, 2013, 10:41:04 am

I'm no expert but that sounds like you're quite strong physically but as others have said, technique and feet sound like the weakness. 

Well I suppose I am physically strong in the sense that I can chuck my sub-9-stone self around pretty damn well

Ahhh strength to weight ratio, the climbers friend.   ;D

Zen

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#28 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 17, 2013, 10:55:49 am

if you train at TCA, you can do a sort of lying down mantle exercise on the rings, with them set about a foot and a half off the floor. get one of the staff to show you.


Ah, I'm assuming you'd be lying with your feet to one side and pulling up onto the rings and then pushing down past them until you're extended?

Sit under dining room table, then pull onto it. Make sure it's sturdy. otherwise any low wall will do.

I have the most flimsy dining room table on earth haha, the low wall might be something I could manage though

cheque

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#29 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 17, 2013, 12:15:57 pm
I find successful technique for mantels relies on aiming to go upward rather than forward.

The classic beached-whale mantel screw-up is most often achieved by trying to pull yourself forward over the top...



...instead, you need to be concentrating on pushing your body up until you can use your feet to help.

Lagers other videos (the ones of him climbing obviously) are excellent examples of the technique you need and should be compulsory viewing for anyone who's been out for the first time and had the standard "there's no grips!" spanking on real-life lower-grade boulders. 

Stewart

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#30 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 17, 2013, 01:48:26 pm
Zen, the mantles at craigmaddie are quite tricky. I presume the juggy 5+ you're talking about is the nose next to abracadabra? It's got a few small dimples on the top that are usually obscured by pine needles, leaves etc. Getting a high foot will help as well all though may make you feel a bit unbalanced if your used to indoors. Once you get your weight up and over then palms, knees, belly are all fair game!

This is john doing an eliminate version

Zen

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#31 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 17, 2013, 03:04:46 pm
Stewart, the problem was called "Chockstoner" I believe, although after watching the video suggestions after I had finished watching the one you posted, I immediately recognised the roof I attempted:

[Sheep Pen Roof 6+)


You see the white handhold on the corner just left of where SPR (i.e. the video) starts? I used that as the hand holds for a sit start, moved along right to the SPR starting holds, followed the same jugs up the roof, also popped out left to catch the lip hold but then rather than heading right, I believe you're supposed to nudge a hand left to another jug and flick a heel up (as in the position in my display picture) and then mantle over the lip, which I couldn't manage.

I also made up a line that followed this same route but continued along the lip far left with heel and toe hooks until you reached a vertical ridge around the corner, it wasn't in the guidebook as far as I could work out but it was really good fun!

I did try the moves on the Nose Direct but couldn't work out where to work upwards (no doubt that'll be the dimples you're reffering to) and the landing, unless I'm confused, was right on the corner of the large 'plinth' that sits underneath, we didn't fancy it haha.

dr_botnik

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#32 Re: 7a+ indoors, 4 outdoors!?
July 18, 2013, 02:33:46 am
I've found a good way of improving footwork; when walking around the bouldery base of crags, DO NOT use your hands for balance. This works especially well when you're practically scrambling round big blocks, making high steps and generally replicating climbing moves. Feet only climbing for the punter, really gets you focusing on where you're stepping and maintaining dynamic balance aka johnny dawes!!

 

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