UKBouldering.com

Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice (Read 2816 times)

The Sausage

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 645
  • Karma: +72/-1
Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice
July 05, 2013, 09:56:11 pm
Anybody know what to do for the crux.... felt totally desperate, and couldn't really make any headway at all on the lower bulge.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#1 Re: Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice
July 05, 2013, 11:16:21 pm
I'm going on it tomorrow Joe, come down! For lower section, from good RH sidepull under overlap get incut crimp on lip in LH, feet are obvious. Step through RF onto smear, RH over to next crimp. Now LF onto smear a few inches left of bolt and roll LH up to sika pinch. RF goes onto obvious hold on lip, usual beta now is RH intermediate pinch level with sika LH, then RH bump again to undercut, stand up. My beta here is to go RH to wide pinch further right instead of normal intermediate, then get LF really high onto incut crimp, LH into undercut left of sika pinch.

It felt desperate because it is. Definitely 8b I reckon.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#2 Re: Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice
July 05, 2013, 11:33:42 pm
Comeback comeback Nigella!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9609
  • Karma: +262/-4
#3 Re: Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice
July 06, 2013, 12:29:04 am
Anybody know what to do for the crux.... felt totally desperate, and couldn't really make any headway at all on the lower bulge.

You lost the FB message I gave you last time it was in? I can't properly remember now.

The key to the lower bulge was flagging way off to the right (RF on the obvious notch LF way past it) up to the intermediate blocky pinch (I then found it key to have my index finger on the blocky part), then flag even further for the next move.

At the Redpoint crux I found the feet to be critical. The LF went on a slightly edgy smear (sorry can't really describe it better than this) and the RF scumming just above a small overlap (if its below it gets stuck). do the next move and step your RF through to the bobbly smear.

I found this section to be absolutely desperate following the beta of previous suitors but once I found this I could do it every time (don't worry, Blue Peter have been informed). Don't get hung up on using the mahoosive sika'd hold, it doesn't help.

Edit: Found the facebook message

Quote
---beta---
Follow crimps up until a good edge next to a bolt, use a thin undercut to re-arrange your hands so that you can cross over LH into the good undercut.
From this go to a blocky sidepull below the roof out right (get your thumb on), step through then get block on lip with LH, obvious edge with RH. Left foot flat on the wall, right foot out on a spike, LH up to the obvious downwards facing pinch, get it on its RHS. Right foot to obvious blackened corner, flag left foot way under, RH comes into block right by your hand, index finger needs to be on top of this. Flag further and go RH again into crimpy undercut (crux). LH flips to the undercut next to the pinch. Stand up and get RH fingers into sika thumb outside of the block. clip extended draw above (you'll have skipped one). LH goes to little undercut. (entering RP crux). Left foot onto high small edge just under overlap, right pasting on a flat bit of wall just over an overlap. LH into akward undercut (pinch hard!). Step rightfoot by your left knee onto a grey bump, left foot goes out to dotty crozzly rock. deadpoint onto the small crimp. Match feet and stab your left foot onto the blocky hold on powerplant (first remove frenchman from said hold). drop RF off, lefthand goes again into good undercut. RF in to block (clip). Take high sharp pinchy crimp and paste LF high and lock/rock into the good tickmarked hold in the big undercut of powerplant. Shake, rest and scuttle off up and rightwards via one more bolt to the belay!

Skip some bolts on the RP, there are too many and one (the 3rd?) is badly placed IMO.

It felt desperate because it is. Definitely 8b I reckon.

There's certainly a fair bit of a range between K3 ( :whistle: ), RnP, Four Door... and Devonshire Arms.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2013, 12:38:45 am by Paul B »

Turboman

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: +12/-0
#4 Re: Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice
July 06, 2013, 04:55:32 pm
I heard that Dave did it on Thursday.  This however may or may not be true. If I post it on here he'll either have to deny it or provide beta. Dav, tell us the truth!

The Sausage

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 645
  • Karma: +72/-1
#5 Re: Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice
July 07, 2013, 05:05:15 pm
Cheers for replies Nige & Paul. How'd it go on Saturday Nige? Sweaty I bet!!

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#6 Re: Devonshire Arms - cheedale cornice
July 08, 2013, 10:03:01 am
It was rather warm! Wasnít that bad though. Still working it at the minute, its coming along slowly. Iíll probably start redpointing next week, but only if it cools down a bit. Iím off on Thursday and Friday if you fancy going down one of those days?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal