[shark]

11.4-7

M. Weigh in at uni sports dept. 9% body fat. Interesting insights on range of movement and right/left imbalances.
T.  High Tor with Sam. Checked out a more direct version of Happy Hour but it was absurdly artificial so left it. Led the linkup of HH into Robert Brown. Held Sam's ropes on Mad Max. Had a couple of goes myself but couldn't do crux move. Sam took a 50footer when a block came off near the top. Decided I'm High Tor'ed out.
W.
T. PM Deadhang, assisted one arm and weights session. 
F.
S. AM Raven Tor. Good conds. Short bouldering session
S. AM Raven Tor again. Not quite as good conds as yesterday. Tom did Chimes start 2nd go and almost managed first reachy move on Weedkiller. Tried R&H again but no joy. Started trying it the hard way. Play on Weedkiller at the end

[nai]

goals - E4, 8a, 7C

M - AM, board bouldering. First hard session for about two months, elbow held up. Weak!
     PM - 7km run
     Eve Board - Aerocap, 20 juggy moves, 1 min on/1 min off x25. Sore hands.

T - started 10 easy moves workout but 2nd set was disastrous & felt tweaky so sacked it
     core - planks, dishes, pressups, renegade rows
     1km swim

w - 2x5min core sets

Th - Cornice, retro'd War Memorial as warm up, OS'd Further Adventures...  Tried Corniceman - spent about 10 minutes at the start doing one move then carefully reversing to the floor so as not to blow the onsight then desperately looking for more holds. Eventually found one then wildly sketched the next few moves to the big throw and promptly fell off. Couldn't do that move so skipped it and led the rest. No time to try again. Rubbish.

F - Board - 10 easy problems, 10 minutes rest x5.
     Core - planks, supermans & spidermans 1 min on/1 off until failure

S - Board  - Aerocap 4x4, 30 moves (& 4 clips), 1:30 on, 40s off, 8 mins rest. Just managed to finish
     5km run on Monsal Trail - following the kids on their bikes trying to catch the youngest before she crashed into the scenery

S - 7km run from Endcliffe pk to Forge Dam & back, following kids, slow due to tricky terrain and big rest due to playpark. Failed my crash prevention duties 

 

[Duma]

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - my memory is shockingly bad - think I popped into the wall, but can't remember any details so it can't have been very productive...
T - wall with daughter, nothing for me
W -
T - wall, forerunning a bunch of the new black (6B+ - 7B) circuit, but main bulk of the session on the mothership. Ended up being there for over 3 1/2 hrs - prob not the best use of time, but feeling good so hard to leave. Finished off all the stuff I'd been trying, total 6 or 7 probs low to mid 7s. Just the three hard ones left on the mothership now.
F -
S -
S -
70kg.
I've had Chloe all week as her mum's at Glasto, so not much done really except thursday's session, which was really good.

[Muenchener]

STG: Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics. Not quite. Rested on one, toproped another.
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
   Redpoint UIAA VIII-, then 7a, then 5.12a. This should allow for a satisfying amount of Big Grade progression in a relatively short period of time
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Appointment with orthopaedist, who says my knee is not good, but not *that* bad either considering my age and history of activity. No need to open it up for a look (yyfy), carry on with the physio.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short bouldering session. 15 mins ARC warmup, 30 minutes working my proj - touched target hold on crux move for the first time - 20 minutes two finger pocket ladders on system board.
W: Alpine approach training: 4 x 40 flights stair climbing with rucksack full of water bottles. Still desperate despite all the monsoon hillwalking in the last few weeks.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short bouldering session: 15 minutes ARC warmup, 20 minutes trying my proj, 20 minutes two finger pocket ladders on system board. Was distracted on the proj by having to ask Monika Retschy to move out of the drop zone. It probably hadn't occurred to her that somebody might fall off something that easy.
F:
S: Frankenjura. Raining. Hanging out in cafes and gear shops, walking through wet woods to check out damp crags for future reference. I felt very much at home.
S: Frankenjura. Not raining. Morning: Neue Heimat. I redpointed a steep, pockety 6b second go - I am still far too much intimidated by steep stuff so this is a major success. And one of the guys redpointed his first UIAA 9-. Yyfy, celebration cakes at Oma Eichler's.
Afternoon, Schöne Aussicht. Collecting projects. Toproped a well hard 6c+, did a couple of 6b+'s with a couple of rests each.
Evening, Piccolino. After the others had gone home I went for a couple of shunt toprope laps on my 6c+ project and another 6c+ next to it. Not sure if this was of much value. Was more preoccupied with getting the grigri to feed, and generally not dying from cocking up my rope logistics, than with actually climbing anything.

Climb with people who climb better than you, and go to crags where you can just about bolt-to-bolt the easy routes. The road to a short term ego-kicking but, hopefully, medium term improvement.

[Dolly]

M Pilates
T short shed sess.
W Good fun sess on the wave at lunchtime then very good Pilates in the evening
T Shed did the prob I failed on Tuesday 3rd time
F
S short gentle run in the park
S First time climbing outside in 5 weeks. Nudas tartan first which was soapy greasy toothpasty nastiness. first time there, good rock. Will go back in better connies.Then to Blackwell Dale where I failed again on Red or Dead. Is that really only 7a+ ? I must be missing something. I know Im fat old weak etc but not that fat old or weak. Anyway nice to be out again and climbing albeit slightly gingerly.


Back slightly better again. Have done 5 days without codeine so must be over the worst

[kelvin]

Climb with people who climb better than you

Aye - that's helped me massively with trad.

Mon - Wall but no psyche to climb. Finger session with foot on and 1 min rests. 5 sets of 14 x 7/3. Managed to hold the smallest campus rail for a set.  This is a first.
Tue - Run, easy intervals.
Wed - Run, easy intervals
Thu - Boulder room. All probs new to me. Did the V1s I tried first go. A techy V2 in 4 goes, then cruised up a fingery V3 to the dyno, then big fail 
Fri - Travel to Wales
Sat - Slate. 2nd Bella Lugosi's Dead and Pull my Daisy. TR Catrin.
Sun - Holyhead Mountain. Lead Rock and Ice, Albany Lodge. 2nd Bruvvers.

So got my first E1  A right soft touch but seeing as I've been sandbagged on enough VDiffs, it'll do for starters. More chuffed with getting on Rainbow Slab to be honest and not making a muppet of myself. Talked myself into thinking it was too hard for me and guess what? Fell off the low crux twice. Had a few strong words with myself, tried harder, got past it. Fell once at the next hard bit (again, lack of effort) but then cruised up the rest.
Really happy with my footwork this weekend. Saw the foothold and used it. The E1 was soft but no dramas. My head went to that place it goes to when I'm soloing - just the moves and me. Really enjoyable, no stress at all.
Mad happy with holding the smallest campus rail too, fingers have really come on and that paid off massively in the slate quarries.

Yep, a good week.

[Eddies]

Monday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Tuesday: Raven Tor – Bouldering for the first time in 4 weeks. Bad finger felt FINE 
Wednesday: REST
Thursday: Fingerboard – Repeaters – (5 sets of 10 hangs @ 7secs on 3 secs off – Middle rung, half crimp). Bad finger felt FINE 
Friday: REST – Wedding (Not mine)
Saturday: REST - Wedding (Im not ready for all that yet)
Sunday: REST - Wedding (Need to climb 8a first!)

Ordered a beastmakes yesterday to replace my moon board and campus rungs!

[nai]

to Blackwell Dale where I failed again on Red or Dead. Is that really only 7a+ ? I must be missing something. I know Im fat old weak etc but not that fat old or weak

I have a video of it but it's only the same as the others out there.  heel hook to start, etc
What i found worked was going back when it was cool and in shade rather than normal daytime hotter-than-the-sun conditions.

Glad to hear the back's improving

[Dolly]

Cheers Nai - video  help would be great if you can post it or PM me please

[Ti_pin_man]

Goal at 44 years old, climbing 10 months seriously, currently 6b/c aiming for 7a January.

M - wall climbing, great session, completed about 6 routes I had failed on the week before but still couldnt get far on the long cave route.
T - cycled 20 miles
W - cycled 20 miles
T - gentle session but got 2/3's along roof route, about 15 moves, then faffed around on pinchy not steep routes
F - rest - travelling
S - 3 hours at different wall, really went for it and did ok.. think i was still tired.  then did 100 press ups in the evening.
S - 2 hours doing moves on gentler stuff

Feel ok

[T_B]

Lower back seems sorted, but still avoiding doing any jumping off. Circuits, deadhangs and traverses.

STG - being fit enough for some Trad 6/7 July (first weekend or even full day out since September last year!) and some DWS in August
LTG - lose 3Kg (from 88 - 85Kg) and get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October

87.3Kg

M - deadhangs, foot on campusing, foot off on big rungs. 3 x circuits on board.
T
W- double session day. Lunch - deadhangs. P.M Works 2 hours circuit board. Overlapping sections on the brown 7c+.
T -
F - Foot on campus + circuits on board.
S - 2 hours at The Tor. Perfect conditions. Did Powerband and also did from move into undercuts to final move on Staminaband. Had a brief play on Strict Blue Band.
S - Some core work in the evening.

Good week, stepping it up a gear. Great to climb on real rock

[krymson]

have been quite busy last two weeks and climbing/training frequency has dropped into maintenance mode.

At the same time have been eating less because of summer heat and instead drinking lots of juices, beer, tea, ice coffees.


hit the pull up bar today and one arm lock  offs were super super easy on either hand
not a long term solution when you're as skinny as i am but it was a pleasant surprise.

And if you actually are overweight - go lose it! it's summer so drinking a lot of fluids is a good way to stay cool and keep your stomach full at the same time, preventing yourself from eating too much. As long as you're still climbing/training regularly  it makes a huge difference and has a nice positive reinforcement effect!

[cheque]

Climb with people who climb better than you, and go to crags where you can just about bolt-to-bolt the easy routes. The road to a short term ego-kicking but, hopefully, medium term improvement.

My climbing is split pretty much 50/50 between this (rarely leads to ticks but is a great workout and learning experience) and being the 'hero' at easy crags with people who don't climb as hard as me (fun and satisfying but never makes me properly try hard). I find I achieve the most on the rarer occasions when I go out with people who are around the same level- I really think being in this situation as often as possible is the key to fast improvement.

it's summer so drinking a lot of fluids is a good way to stay cool

Have you experienced summer in Britain krymson? Keeping cool is rarely a concern!

M- Rest.
T- Masson Lees. Warmed up on what I thought was a 6b. Felt nails and completely destroyed my confidence. Following blast on my project was a disaster- couldn't make myself move above the bolts even though I could do the moves when I committed.  Did a dangerous and shit 6a to finish feeling like the world's worst climber. Found out the warm-up was 6c on return home and I'd just read the wrong description in the book. Fuck's sake.
W- Rest.
T- Raining and couldn't get a belay indoors for much-needed not-saying-"take" practice. Went to the Depot instead- bouldering/ circuit board/ training mega-session. Circuits had been reset since I last went so was able to climb them on sight- good performance and a much-needed confidence boost.
F- Suddenly everyone is available for a belay indoors, so head to Notts Wall. 7 pitches up to about 6c, 6 leader falls (including 4 off a vertical route on greasy slopers- the scariest type I find). As ever, telling my partner at the beginning of the session that I wouldn't say "take" all evening leads to surprise onsights.
S- Rest. Got new shoes. For the first time ever I have climbing shoes that fit properly. Check me out.
S- Two Tier. Warm up on 6b+ I'd done before. Feels easy. Shoes feel great. Decide to get on Darl (pitch one)- as strong partner who'd done it 8 years before finds it tricky, I give it a top-rope first- get utterly spanked- after three gruelling toprope epics there are still two sections I can't do. It's ace though (as is Countdown, which I ended up swinging into after falling off Darl's traverse  ) and flailing on it will surely lead to eventually redpointing such awesome routes. TR'd Case Adjourned after- did virtually all of this straight off and could have worked it on lead if time and energy had allowed.

A bit of a reality check (cheque?) this week. I need more mileage on 6cs and 6c+s and to do more bouldering on Peak lime- as it stands I'm just not good enough for the routes I think I should be doing.   

[nai]

Cheers Nai - video  help would be great if you can post it or PM me please

Here you go, which part are you struggling with?

Start was what baffled me at first, this was last May so memory fades, etc.  You use something underneath for your RF and the heel for Left and push across for the RH hold then IIRC it's quite big stretch up with an intermediate to help you along. Fairly steady above I think. 

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest
T: Castle Inn with the girlfriend. Good progress getting her over her fear of hights/trusting a top-rope again. Did 3 x F4/+ and repeated a F5. Put clips in on a 6c+ and checked the moves but didn't have time to lead it.

W: Dinbren - 2 laps on a F6b as a warm up. The route doesn't seem to get me pumped at all anymore - cool! Worked moves on F7b+ proj, completely changed my beta for the crux so it now suites me more, spanned slap on crimps instead of a burly undercut move. Linked the thing in 2 halfs and sorted out clipping positions. Will be properly on redpoint next session and should go soon!

T: Quick fingerboard deadhang session.

Front 3 - 3 x 10 secs
Middle 2 - 3 x 10 secs
4 Finger Half-Crimp - 3 x 7 secs

F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Rest

[Dolly]

Here you go, which part are you struggling with?

Start was what baffled me at first, this was last May so memory fades, etc.  You use something underneath for your RF and the heel for Left and push across for the RH hold then IIRC it's quite big stretch up with an intermediate to help you along. Fairly steady above I think. 



Cheers
Well I'm not starting with a heel on, am doing a sort of Egyptian to get the pocket then then  throwing my heel up. The move from the pocket up to the better hold for left hand is where I'm struggling -  just seems miles. The rest is fairly steady as you say. Maybe I'll try a day when its cooler

[duncan]

STG: rehab. wrist and shoulder. Lose 2kg. E3 by end of July??
MTG: big route in Italy/Switzerland this August. Don’t get injured.
LTG: increasingly unrealistic LH&F goals in Alps and USA.

Review: still teetering along the line between rehab. and training.
Plan: trad. mileage+++.


Week 175
M - Finger rolls / Biceps curls / Shoulder stuff
T - Arch bouldering. ‘warm-up’ problems x 10. Felt OK. Shoulder stuff.
W - Short flat run, weights
T - Arch bouldering. ‘warm-up’ problems x 15. Wrist sore, doom and gloom.
F -
S - Short flat run, weights
S - Easy day at Cattle Troughs, 5 routes up to HVS. Wrist OK, Shoulder OK.
74.2kg

Week 176
M - Finger rolls / Biceps curls etc.
T - Arch bouldering. ‘warm-up’ problems x 10. Felt OK. Tame Impala at Hammersmith, not bad.
W - Longer flat run, weights
T - Arch bouldering. ‘warm-up’ problems x 15. Wrist sore, doom and gloom.
F -
S - Short hilly run, weights, child-care.
S - Good day at Shorncliffe (spiritual home of the bumbly HVS leader so perfect for my purposes) and did 6 routes up to E1.  Wrist OK, shoulder fine. First time I’ve been climbing somewhere this busy for months if not years. Clearly trad. is not dead when it is a sunny June weekend on a crag with lots of good, easy, single-pitch routes equipped with lower-offs.
73.2kg

[fried]

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoor, still some aching in my right shoulder and elbow but still manage some 6A ish stuff, just take lots of breaks.
Wednesday - Saturday - rest, I now know that trying to squeeze another session in will just leqd to more pain.

Sunday - I wait all week for my Sunday session, the weather is good but my bro-in-law needs a favour (fair play, he has just sorted out and delivered my car) so first I have to take him and a TV to Soisson (1 and a half hours north of Paris) the go back the other way to Font. I'd planned on having an earlish Saturday night and this didn't happen either. So, I left Paris at 7.30, feeling fragile and got to Font at 11 ish. I went off to do some blue stuff at Nainville, but after a few bits, the lack of sleep, food, driving and sun catching up, I decided to just do the yellow circuit. Managed the first 20 problems then needed to go home to sleep.

Start a diet tomorrow to get rid of a few kilos.

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 56   
Indoor: 3 
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 16

Back in the saddle again this week - three visits to Harmers wood/Helsby. Working problems/eliminates.. Nothing new to report but met up with UKBer Will Hunt at Harmers on Sunday - was good to meet him.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Rehab elbow.. Climb summat.

M: Saw Aussie pain merchant - brutalised much of my body. The plus side was that the elbow didn't hurt afterwards.
T: Climb on Heely bloc - Rinsed things that had foxed me before; elbow was pretty good afterwards but had a pint just in case (bad boulder!) - Elbow excercises.
W: Elbow excercises.
T: Elbow excercises.
F: Works - So pissed off.. Just felt weak and elbow hurt, arse! Elbow excercises.
S: Trad @ Bamford - Now that's what I'm talking about, piss easy climbing with a bit of spice.. Just did some VS's and HVS's and some soloing - elbow didn't hurt! Met fellow UKB'ers and got pissed in the Sheaf  . Elbow excercises.
S: Bike ride with kids and elbow excercises.

Still pissed off with the elbow but got a definitive diagnosis (tennis elbow and a trapped thingymajig in me neck) kinda interested in doing more easy trad to combat the general apathy - didn't run this week which was a bit shit, kinda felt a bit coldy and got a bit of a sore achillies so left it a week.

Ths week: Easy trad, elbow excercises and running. Started summer diet - might make a difference come Autmn if I can shake the injury and actually get some routes fitness..

[kelvin]

Start a diet tomorrow to get rid of a few kilos.

I'd advise avoiding fried food...

boom boom

[fried]

I don't want to talk about my diet, it's worse than giving up smoking. After 2 days I feel stressed and tired, all I want is some chocolate and I hate chocolate.

[Fiend]

M: Saw Aussie pain merchant - brutalised my anus as usual T

S: Trad @ Bamford - Now that's what I'm talking about, piss easy climbing with a bit of spice.. Just did some VS's and HVS's and some soloing - elbow didn't hurt! Met fellow UKB'ers and got pissed in the Sheaf  . Elbow excercises.

Ths week: Easy trad, elbow excercises and running. Started summer diet - might make a difference come Autmn if I can shake the injury and actually get some routes fitness..

Told you a decade ago, Easy Trad is where it's at :D

[Duncan Disorderly]

Told you a decade ago, Easy Trad is where it's at :D

Arse! 

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Almscliff after work climbed and failed on various things, did 3 6c+s one I don't think I've done before.
Wed. Bike 20 secs on 40 secs x 5 3 ets.
Thu. Board 16 problems ane each ones mirror image.
Fr. Nothing.
Sat Board repeated a couple of old problems, then did a couple of projects. Bike 2 hrs.
Sun. Bike 66 miles 3hrs 44mins very windy felt a bit fried when I finished.

[csl]

Goals
Climb more UK 7c and 7c+
Trad - climb some trad!
Run again

Mon- Crossfit - bad idea, was fucked for ages after this. Core particularly.
Tue- Nowt
Wed- Nowt
Thu- Kilnsey - Tried to RP Dominatrix, not very focused with a lot on my mind so a couple of poor attempts really. Did link from just over first roof to last move. Really should have done it!
Fri- Leeds Wall - bouldering. Flashed a V6. various other stuff, all stuff up to V4 onsight. Some v5's. O/s circuits up to 6c. 
Sat- Nowt
Sun- Nowt