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8a for holding the slopers on a beastmaker (Read 9041 times)

SA Chris

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taking 8a for holding the slopers on a beastmaker.

I took 8a+?

Nibile

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taking 8a for holding the slopers on a beastmaker.

I took 8a+?
What? Are going to spoil THE BENCHMARK with silly overgrading? Unless it was for 1 minute or more. In this case, you are God and I worship you.

Baldy

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What? Are going to spoil THE BENCHMARK with silly overgrading? Unless it was for 1 minute or more. In this case, you are God and I worship you.
I was going to take 8a, but then I thought it felt soft.

So I offered it a personal grade of 7C+

That should even it out I think.

Nibile

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 Split threads, mods?
 :devangel:

SA Chris

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taking 8a for holding the slopers on a beastmaker.

I took 8a+?
What? Are going to spoil THE BENCHMARK with silly overgrading? Unless it was for 1 minute or more. In this case, you are God and I worship you.

It was for one week? Plus I sanded them smoother and put a steeper angle on them.

andy_e

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Is 1-5-9 still considered 8A+ these days?

shark

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Baldy

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Is 1-5-9 still considered 8A+ these days?

Sounds like another split thread incoming...

SA Chris

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I hope everyone is aware I was taking the piss.

flyguy

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Just updating my 8a.nu account if 1-5-9 is 8a+ what's 1-4-7? Thanks in advance.


Jaspersharpe

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It was for one week? Plus I sanded them smoother and put a steeper angle on them.

My beastmaker is actually about 10 degrees overhanging due to the uneven beam it's attached to in my attic. I noticed what a difference it made when I went to The Works the other day as hanging the bottom rung on theirs was a piece of piss in comparison to mine.

I therefore propse 9A for hanging the slopers on my fingerboard.

flyguy

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Points for the scorecard and brings me up to average in the survey, happy days

cheque

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i know gradings completely arbitrary but come on. i walked up a slight incline before, 2c i thought. then i carried a rather large bag up, my problem is whether to claim a bigger grade or just say i walked up the hill with a bag...

 :lol:

Nibile

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lagerstarfish

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I therefore propse 9A for hanging the slopers on my fingerboard.

are fingernails in? or that tantamount to heel hooking?

Jaspersharpe

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Worse than that it's tantamount to gme toehooking at The School.  :worms:

SA Chris

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I therefore propse 9A for hanging the slopers on my fingerboard.

are fingernails in? or that tantamount to heel hooking?

Worse - kneebarring.

rodma

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Just updating my 8a.nu account if 1-5-9 is 8a+ what's 1-4-7? Thanks in advance.

Used to be 7c+ but i think that was on s7 rungs at 22.5cm spacing rather than metrolius at 20cm. 1-5-8 on the latter feels of a similar difficulty to old school 1-4-7. But what wood i know.


flyguy

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Soft 7C+ then.

chillax

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I can hang the slopers occasionally. I can boulder 7a occasionally too. Ergo 45deg = 7a. Thats latin that is, so must be true. Ipso facto innit.

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Never even come close to hanging the 45s, even nested.  I can boulder 8A+ occasionally.  Ergo 45deg > 8A+. 

Hmm.  I wonder if climbing involves more than just hanging a hold......

James Malloch

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So going by the last two posts, "Ergo 45deg = 7a" and "Ergo 45deg > 8A+"

7a = Ergo 45deg > 8A+

7a > 8A+

So to be a wad you just need to climb 7a?

Nibile

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Hmm.  I wonder if climbing involves more than just hanging a hold......
Sadly yes.

Sasquatch

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