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Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor (Read 2350 times)

Gritrat

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Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 08:35:26 am
Think I did this last night but was after some confirmation of the beta, with it being an eliminate line.

Starting on the Percy 97 wall I took diagonal crimp with left hand and 1/4 pad crimp with right, deadpoint to triangularish pocket straight above with left, right foot on vague smear below left hand somewhere and pop for top.  Does this sound correct?

Also tried Basic Training Start and thought 7B+ was a bit tight!

a dense loner

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#1 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 11:13:04 am
Sounds right. I got left pocket, which is at nearly full extent, from feet on low break then put right foot on smear out right for top. No feet on or near big vertical crack on left, includes big foot at bottom of crack. I had to do it in December since I couldn't begin to hold the holds in summer

a dense loner

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#2 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 11:15:04 am
Oh n the people I know who,ve done basic training either find it piss or can't do it at all, I fall into the latter. Thinking it was hard for 7c when it used to get that

Gritrat

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#3 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 02:23:32 pm
Yeah sounds like exactly how I did it barring a slightly different smear.

I flashed it using the good foot ledge that's part of the left seam then decided that definitely wasn't 7C so worked it off a right smear. Good problem; where does the V10 grade come from? Was that its original grade?

Basic Training felt horrendous! I kept popping off left foothold and smashing into side wall.

a dense loner

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#4 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 04:52:09 pm
I originally gave it 7c+ then went to font n nearly did a prob very similar in 10 mins, couldn't hold the massive top jug yet got there nearly every go, Percy 97 took me 3 yrs of coerce rated effort so I upgraded to 8a, then keen youth did it in 3goes n said 7c, going straight to blob sloper on left then up James said would be 8a, I thought it would be same grade ie 7c+, then another mate took 10yrs to do it n said 7c. If uve got long limbs n good crimp strength I'd think it would be fairly easy, but comparatively I've not. I still think its the hardest prob I've done, n far harder than peak stuff at 7c like Barry sheene, brads wall etc but horses for courses

Zods Beard

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#5 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 05:17:30 pm
C'mon Dense, problems like that are never going to look good compared to stuff at The Moor.

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 05:24:15 pm
How does it compare to Chaz Cooper's stuff though?

Key word in Dense's analysis? 'Nearly'.

a dense loner

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#7 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 05:30:12 pm
Not key to the point at all, I introduced the peak stuff as a comparison knowing someone would say that. I also used peak stuff that was a couple of moves on crimps, for yet more of a comparison

Gritrat

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#8 Re: Percy 97 Eliminate at Hobson Moor
June 21, 2013, 06:00:09 pm
I think it must play to my strengths cos I found it relatively straightforward at that grade - I thought 7C seemed fair though. I'm short n light but have good crimp strength and like short, powerful problems. Like you say, horses for courses n all that.
I'd be keen to try going straight to the  boss from the crimps.

 

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