[Pebblespanker]

Summary of recent(ish) punter grade developments by myself and friends in Glen Clova around the Peel Boulder and the recently found and developed Hidden Rich's Wall. Nothing earth shattering just some more easy problems to extend the circuit and increase the warm up potential, vague chance some were done years ago but they were all lichenous and needed gentle cleaning. Would have published on SCwiki but site appears to be closing down so shared on here and also on the other channel - I have created topos for the Peel problems and Hidden Rich's

Peel Boulder
Groovier Baby 6A+ - wall right of Groover from a SS on crimps, pull on and pop to v-shaped incut, finish high on the left.
Groovy Pop 6A - Eliminate. SS at base of Groover, pull on and pop for the good flake up and right. next stop the top. holds in and above the thin break are out and unnecessary, easier for the lanky
The Archers 6A - right of groovy pop is a wall with a shallow arch at the top. SS below and up to small incuts, high layaway in top of the arch allows rounded crimp to be gained, then the top.
The Friday Rock Show 6A - SS right of TA below a long quartzy pocket, up to pocket then two consecutive crimp layaways for LH allows a balancy reach to finishing jugs. Very close to TA but only shares one tiny foothold
Spotter reccomended for TA and TFRS due to inconvenient boulder

Short Roof
Shredded Beef 6B - SS on LHS and then traverse lip rightwards on slopers and guppies with cunning feet until you cut loose, continue traversing right to rock out onto the lip glacis on RHS just before the start of Short Roof, rock very rough in places
Two Big Jugs 6A+ - SS at back of roof with one hand on lip one on undercut under the roof, both feet on te back wall, get heel toe then up to short roof jug and then cut loose avoiding the dab, head for the next big jug on Short Roof and mantle out the lip

Hidden Rich's Wall
Hidden wall in a pit directly above the Hole Of Weems, newly platformed landing.

Feckless Wonder 4 - SS on LHS and head for left hand side of highest point
The Razor Blade - SS just right of high point, up on small holds to the eponymous razor blade above the break, long reach up and left to finish
Poke in the Eye 5+ - Right of TRB is above the break is a series of depression that look almost like a cartoon face. SS below and up via a pocket and finger in one of the eyes to the obvious flake, jugs to finish
Note the large hold at chest height is out for both Razor Blade and Poke in the Eye
One in the Ear - right of PITE are some obvious pockets. SS below and up via a nice gaston move using the ear hole to the good flake
Crabbit Man 5 - traverse the whole wall from LHS to RHS below the break

[SA Chris]

Sounds good. You got pics?

Shame about Scottish Climbs being locked, wonder how hard it would be to transfer the info over to another wiki so it can be edited. On here maybe?

Have you been up to check out Kris Devlin's new stuff at Boustie Ley? He's promised a topo map showing boulder locations, but not done anything yet.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11528

[Pebblespanker]

Yup got two decent topos as mentioned above but not posted photos on here before so will get my finger out lol  if you want copies of the originals rather than the reduced ones on the other channel whilst I faff about sorting posting on here PM me your email and I will forward them. I also have some footage pieced together of recent trips showing the new Peel stuff but its deffo non-quality but now that I have an SLR with HD video capability I may reshoot.

Kris's stuff looks excellent and a really good find given how well travelled (ish) Clova is, the walk-in sounds a mare though appears to be well worth the effort looking at the pictures on the other channel - for fat fat old smokers like me it will be more like 40-55mins flog with a mat  We also have some other minor stuff to do in Clova and will share once done, any that we fail on we will publish as open (easy) projects.

There is one problem described on SC that I am confused about so at the risk of losing a very slim chance at a FA (I wish lol) here goes - it's the rising lip traverse that mentions doing it without heel hooks will be hard. There is no grade mentioned so no idea how hard or if it was ever done. The road-facing side of the first low boulder between Peel and Short Roof/Pit Boy area has a R-L rising lip traverse on slopers that is not recorded anywhere apart from possibly the odd reference above on SC. The lip is pretty clean and was possibly brushed a long time back - lichen growth minimal; the cleaning if it was done is nothing like the somewhat keen brushing of the holds on the low lip traverse on Peel. Looks like it will go anywhere between high 6's and low 7's at a guess but high 6's are at the top end of my ability and I've not been on it yet . The words 'quality, thuggy, sustained and strenuous' keep leaping to mind when looking at it as does the thought 'in my dreams'. Any idea's on whether is was ever done or the grade?? I fancy it as a training project/goal for when the temps are a little cooler and it would be nice to know if I am aiming too high

Love the idea of getting the SCwiki stuff preserved on here if possible, a lot of dedication and effort appears to have gone into the site and it would be shame to lose it especially as Scottish bouldering info is scarce on the net outside UKC, and an updateable location would be ideal. Adding Kri's excellent finds would be sensible too.

We developed a whole new boulder in Glen Ogle a couple of years back, again only stuff up to 6C or so but adds to the circuit. I'll get that posted too.

[SA Chris]

I put it and the notes in the SC wiki. A mate Andy and I gave it a damned good scrubbing circa 6 years ago and we worked it on that day, but were both pretty knackered and skinless after spending most of the day at the sleepy hollow end and doing the peel boulder stuff, we could do most of the moves but couldn't link it. I know Andy has been back since with Fultonius, but I've never heard mention of him or anyone linking it. I was trying it from a sitter at the lowest point, he was trying it from a hanging start (he's a bit shorter). No idea if it's been done (I wouldn't be surprised if it had) but it's such a good problem you would think the FA would have claimed it. I reckon given some good skin and cool tems it would go. footholds are poor though, heels essential. I did a couple of sitters on the back of that boulder, but they are pretty low quality, not worth writing up. John Watson asked me about it too, but never mentioned anyone doing it.

Would we need permission from SC to extract the text from the wiki? Seeings it's 80% my work I would be surprised if they had a problem.

[Pebblespanker]

Hmmm not sure about SC, I hope they would probably be fine as the data is going to be preserved in an accessible online format on a well known bouldering site - do you happen to know if any of the SC guys post on this site? I'll ask PunkPunk (Chris) if he has any contacts with the SC boys just in case and let you know

I'll get the topos up this weekend - outdoors looks off the menu given the crappy weather forecast for the East coast so might as well do something useful 

[punkpunk]

Don't think they would mind. I'm in touch with Mike Tweedley and have texted him to ask what he thinks. As far as I am aware Mark doesn't do much climbing anymore, hopefully Mike will still be in contact with him. Pretty sure none of them post on here.

[punkpunk]

Haven't heard back yet. Only contact I know for mark is through his blog
https://jellyjelly.net/blog/
Think he is on twitter too

[Pebblespanker]

Thanks for trying Chris much appreciated +1

I'll explore the blog route and let you know

You have a PM re the weekend

[SA Chris]

I could be wrong, but I think there was a Susan Guest involved too. I've asked on the NEO Facebook page if anyone has details, If anyone else is on a local climbers FB page in their are, can they do the same? I think most were Edinburgh based?

[punkpunk]

No that's right. Mike Lauder too, he occasionally comes in the bike shop, not seen him for a while though. I'll facebook search them...

[SA Chris]

Just got Mike Tweedley on facebook and messaged him.

[punkpunk]

Think Susan is Inverness based now....I've messaged her too

[punkpunk]

Got a reply from Susan, good to go!

"I'm not so much involved with SC anymore - but still in contact with Mark. 

Any of the content from SC is available under a creative commons license anyway - so yeah use what you like.  As far as i'm aware Marks plan is just to convert the Wiki to static text - so it what's there now will still be available to view - just not editable.  I can't speak for the rest of the gang but i never saw the data on SC as being owned by us - it belongs to the community and of course it should keep being used and growing for the benefit of all."

[SA Chris]

Good work. Dave Redpath said pretty much the same thing; do what you like.

[Pebblespanker]

Result chaps  I'll get the Glen Ogle punter grade stuff posted too