[tomtom]

Hello,
I've been having some mono-tastic fun in this one recently.. Despite having to de-slug one of the mono's with the sharp end of my toothbrush and clean out the slime with my sock (poked in with said same toothbrush) - it eludes me still.

OK - I get up to the point quite comfortably where I have the last mono with my RH, 2nd to last with my LH and 3rd to last with my LF. RF is lower down on a good edge that you rock onto to get the high RH mono..

From here I can (just) reach up to one shit crimp with my LH - thats on the same mini break as the good final crimps on Yates Layaway to the left (but about 1m further right). And just get my RH up to a more positive, but in all shitter one/two pad crimp with my RH. I'm then mega stretched out. I assume from this I then have to teeter a foot up into the mono my LH was in and then stand up on it and slap for glory.. or am I missing some other foot fandangery shennanigans.

I remember (and have checked) in an older UKB post about this people talked of using the last two mono's as undercuts... and I can do this, but it does not really seem to get me anywhere... The way I'm doing it also seems very tall (I am 6'3") and I suspect is not really how it should be done..

I'm getting as far as this chap in the video (I dont know who he is - hope you dont mind me posting it , twas on Youtube..) - except I'm holding the crimps he's going for...
TT

[fatneck]

Pretty sure BenF's your man for this...

[Ally Smith]

Your beta sounds fine to me.
However, i went back on this last Sunday, and i think the two crimps level with the holds you mention on Yates layaway have gotten considerably shitter than when i first did Harmadillo a couple of years ago?

Also, i repeated Babyblock on Sunday, thinking it was still 7A+ despite the broken hold.

[tomtom]

Your beta sounds fine to me.
However, i went back on this last Sunday, and i think the two crimps level with the holds you mention on Yates layaway have gotten considerably shitter than when i first did Harmadillo a couple of years ago?

Also, i repeated Babyblock on Sunday, thinking it was still 7A+ despite the broken hold.

Thanks Fatneck & Ally,

I saw the chalk high up on Babybloc on wednesday (not often you see people get that high..) Glad its getting repeated, though it doesnt feel quite a good as the old version (its good but in a different - more sketchy way)

I think BenF is the person to ask about the Harmadillo crimps and their decay or not.. (oh ben... oh ben... calling...)

Though if I can pick your brains, for the two crimps - were they close together (about 5-10 cm apart and more over to the left) or 30-40 cm apart.?. I ask as there are kind of two crimp edges on the left - and one shitter but positive one out to the right. Using the two on the left seems unlikely to me as they were a mega mega stretch and left me in an even more tenuous body position than using the ones further spread out..