[psychomansam]

So I'm living in Derby midweek. Looking to boulder outside up to about V4 without going too far. Any recommendations? Is birchwood quarry/south park worth a visit?

[205Chris]

If I were you I'd probably head to the Churnet

[Bonjoy]

 
But also - Shining Cliff, Chasecliff and Leeshaw Brow would all be worth a visit. All minor venues but close enough to combine in one session if needs be. Shining Cliff is mostly harder stuff though.
Travelling a little further you've got Black Rocks, the Amber Valley and Cratcliff etc.

[psychomansam]

Cheers. Hadn't looked at churnet. Seems pretty decent.

I'm working in Matlock later today so I'm going to throw some pads in and head to cratcliffe I think. Or I might go hunting for a smaller venue to check out (for the future) if it's raining.

[SA Chris]

south park worth a visit?

There's ample parking day and night

[Bonjoy]

If you're already in Matlock then Matlock Bank Quarries are an obvious option. Nice collection of probs (often quite highball) in your grade range on good rock with tree shade. Cocking Tor is another good one which is often wet in winter but should be dry now and shady, should the sun come out.
There's the obvious stuff around Crattcliff but also Stanton-in-the-wood and to a lesser extent Doll Tor are good choices at that grade. Nice and tree shaded but not yet in their overgrown summer state.

[bolehillbilly]

Churnet is a great destination from Derby.  Plenty of tea and cake at The Ramblers and also some good climbing at these grades.  If you are still in Derby when the new guide comes out you'll be busy for a long time.

As Bonjoy says it's also worth exploring the delights of South Peak grit, much of which is a similar journey time to the Churnet. 
This is a link to a Southern Grit ticklist of stuff in that grade range.  Not necessarily the best problems but would take you off the beaten track of Cratcliffe/Stride  to a few of the more esoteric venues.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=501

Cocking Tor, Bradley, Chasecliffe, Shining Cliff, Stanton Moor/Woods, Clifftop, Rowtor, Doll Tor, Black Rocks/Garden, Matlock quarries all worth a visit
As far as Southpark is concerned I always thought the bouldering on the main wall was worthwhile and should be reasonably clean, but you might need to bulldoze a path through the nettles etc at this time of year.

Hope you found something good to do today.

 

[psychomansam]

Cheers for all the tips guys. Had a great (sweaty) trip to cratcliffe and excited for more. Wondering if I should get another guide at some point. I've got the oldskool black peak bouldering.

[psychomansam]

Tougher one this. Limestone at the same grade?
My fri pm involves driving from Derby to Sheffield. I normally leave around half 6 since traffic's a bitch, but I can leave at 4 and head up through the peak. Obviously this means shitloads of great grit roughly en route, but my skin has taken a beasting from slimy sloper slapping.
Sadly most of the Limestone appears to want you to be strong and have less fat than redtop milk.  My current option appears to be Slinter wall, without a guide. Any brainwaves?

Cheers
 

[Nan]

Few things at rubican and nudas tartan. Below your grade but having a play on the bouldering at harbrough rocks can make a nice evening and can always make up your own problem there.  I'm based in derby let me know if you fancy the churnet one evening can share a lift.

[tommytwotone]

Depending on the route you're taking to Sheffield, what about the stuff at Anston Stones?

Only been once but thought it was good - not bags of easy stuff but some challenging high 6s to look at.

Oh, and a +1 to Harborough as well, brilliant place for a sunny evening bounding up easy problems.

[bolehillbilly]

Slinter Wall is a good option at this grade and this time of year.  If you went and climbed every problem there in a session you'd leave with a smile on your face and knuckles scraping the floor.    It can get a little dusty so a soft brush is useful.
The descriptions here  http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=977 should be enough and there's also something on PB info.  Essentially a series of steep up lines to the break at about 5/6a and a 6c R-L traverse line.

Harborough is also great fun and it might be worth thinking about Pleasley Vale too.

[psychomansam]

Cheers for all the tips guys. I took the A6/Chatsworth and did some stuff at curbar today - including a problem which I found and cleaned, though it'll have been done before I'm sure. Good fun though.

The traffic was crap though, so planning on some more southerly stuff next time. Should get some of your tips into action. You'll be pleased to know I've got the Vertebrate guide in the post, so  I should be bugging you less from now on!

And will drop you a line when I get a chance nan. Could you pm me your phone no. for the sake of ease?