[mrjonathanr]

Great I'll do the stretches you suggest. Thanks for replying.

[Tyco]

HI,

I don't know if you're doing it this week or not, but thought I'd post up on the off chance.

For the last 3 weeks or so I've had a burning pain on and off between my shoulder blades. Sometimes it's slightly more to the right, but is generally fairly central and affects most of my upper back. It's not stopped me climbing, and climbing is actually one of the times it hurts the least. I've done a bit of research online to see what it could be, and originally was just make sure to stretch daily with some shoulder rotations added in with a very light resistance band. I've been taken anti-inflamatories (naproxen) and cut my climbing down to one session a week, with less power based problems. At first I thought all this was helping, but it has gotten much worse again and I found some other places where it said stretching the muscles out might be bad for it! So now I'm confused, in pain, and could use some help!

Cheers,
Tyco

[HPclinic]

HI,

I don't know if you're doing it this week or not, but thought I'd post up on the off chance.

For the last 3 weeks or so I've had a burning pain on and off between my shoulder blades. Sometimes it's slightly more to the right, but is generally fairly central and affects most of my upper back. It's not stopped me climbing, and climbing is actually one of the times it hurts the least. I've done a bit of research online to see what it could be, and originally was just make sure to stretch daily with some shoulder rotations added in with a very light resistance band. I've been taken anti-inflamatories (naproxen) and cut my climbing down to one session a week, with less power based problems. At first I thought all this was helping, but it has gotten much worse again and I found some other places where it said stretching the muscles out might be bad for it! So now I'm confused, in pain, and could use some help!

Cheers,
Tyco

Hi,
the first thing to comment on is that if it feels easier when you climb it is probably more linked to what you are doing in the daytime. If the work you do is more sedentary/sititing then try and avoid sustatined positions by regular standing and moving. As you mentioned the right side is worse take care with excessive mouse use and don't be reaching too far forward. We would advice to continue climbing but at a lower level for a couple of weeks. Back off the streching as that tends to increase focus on the area, go for more rotation based activites such as boxing,swimming or basic trunk rotations.  Hope this helps, let us know.
regards Matt and Ian

[HPclinic]

Hi, we have just finished the question and answer session today. Don't forget we are answering questions every week and we are also at the Cliff hanger event in Sheffield for any quetions or advice. Bye for now, Matt, Ian and Steve

[Tyco]

Hi,
the first thing to comment on is that if it feels easier when you climb it is probably more linked to what you are doing in the daytime. If the work you do is more sedentary/sititing then try and avoid sustatined positions by regular standing and moving. As you mentioned the right side is worse take care with excessive mouse use and don't be reaching too far forward. We would advice to continue climbing but at a lower level for a couple of weeks. Back off the streching as that tends to increase focus on the area, go for more rotation based activites such as boxing,swimming or basic trunk rotations.  Hope this helps, let us know.
regards Matt and Ian

Cheers for the advice, I might come chat to you a bit at Clifhanger as well!

[nai]

Ian
Thanks for the detailed report and I would agree you don't have a local elbow problem.  It could be from the shoulder but from what you are saying with the medial scapular pain you have a neck involvement.  Also the medial pain (golfers elbow) would suggest referred pain into this region.  I assume its your right elbow so check if your right shoulder is low and causing stress on the neck(and shoulder). I would elevate the shoulder up (shoulder shrugs are a good exercise for this) and stretch the right lat dori muscle.  Stop the rotor cuff exercises and stretch your neck if it is stiff.  Do that for a couple of weeks but keep climbing and see if that helps.  See Matts video on elbow rehab coming soon to the site. Tell me how you get on. 
Steve

Hi Steve

I have been stretching my neck and lats, doing shrugs 1-3 times a day and just started lying across a Swiss Ball as suggested in Matt's video.  My symptoms have 90% cleared up, I still have the odd twinge in my elbow but nothing more than discomfort rather than pain.  I have also been able to resume a full climbing schedule (5-6 sessions a week) without issue so I think it's fair to say you've nailed it.
 
The right side of my neck and my right shoulder are still quite stiff and the shoulder is still low but I don't suppose years of misuse and neglect are going to be undone in a couple of weeks.  I'll stick at it and see how it goes

Again, many thanks for your help.  Hopefully I'll have chance to drop in and say Hello at the weekend.

Ian

[psychomansam]

I pulled my lower back out (a vertebrae or two above my arse I reckon) 3.5 weeks ago doing some fairly stupid indoor bouldering (laybacking with my feet above me). It was fairly painful getting about for the first few days(co-codamol, ibugel, hot showers). I had to stop running and climbing. Did my first bit of climbing (some outdoor bouldering) after two weeks as it had been feeling pretty ropey up til then. I've been out a few times now and it's allowing me to climb, and seems to appreciate being mobilized, but I can still feel it a bit both when climbing and not. I've only tried a gentle run but it made it a bit sore. I've also sat in the sauna a few times, which makes it feel awesome!

I've been doing a few happy/angry cats followed by lying on my back, stretching out straight then raising my knees and dropping them to each side (30 secs in each position, just to stretch out), and finally scrunching/holding them in close. Have finished with some child poses for a while - but I still can't get fully into child pose without pulling on the lower back uncomfortably - instead I'm resting my arms on the floor and not dropping my head quite down.

Basically, it does seem to be improving slowly, but I was wondering if you could recommend anything to help get it going again, and to strengthen it once it's recovered.

Background info:
The only core I do at the moment is the shoulder-lock press-ups John Ostrovskis gets all climbers to do - which have been great for my shoulder injuries. They work my abs and lower back a bit due to holding in that position for a while - so I normally do the above stretches routinely afterwards.

I'm a 6'4 97kg punter. 

cheers guys

[webbo]

I have a problem that's been troubling me for a couple of months in my left heel. Its on the outside slightly to the left of the Achilles. Initially there was slight swelling but that's gone down with icing. If I stretch it by keeping my heel flat on the floor and bend my knee forward over my toes its tight and painful. The main issue is climbing shoes either exacerbate it or caused it due to the pressure of the rand in this area. I cut the rand on an old pair of shoes and generally I can climb with no discomfort and not much soreness later. however if I wear my muria velcros, tight and down toed I have to keep taking them off to relieve the mild discomfort and it will be sore the next day although this will ease with stretching and movement.
I did see my GP and he just said take over the counter Anti Inflammatorys which eased it in the initial stages.

This has caused some debate between us. Try calf stretches 2 or 3 times a day and some local massage before climbing and report back. You are right to relieve the pressure on it as it maybe compression of a small nerve on the outside of the ankle.

Progress report.
Doing the above as directed. I am still experiecing some stiffness and slight aching first thing on a morning and after prelonged sitting. I can now wear climbing shoes that before were too painful although there is slight discomfort but I don't get the pain and aching the following day.
I still don't have flexability I had before depite the stretching.

[HPclinic]

I pulled my lower back out (a vertebrae or two above my arse I reckon) 3.5 weeks ago doing some fairly stupid indoor bouldering (laybacking with my feet above me). It was fairly painful getting about for the first few days(co-codamol, ibugel, hot showers). I had to stop running and climbing. Did my first bit of climbing (some outdoor bouldering) after two weeks as it had been feeling pretty ropey up til then. I've been out a few times now and it's allowing me to climb, and seems to appreciate being mobilized, but I can still feel it a bit both when climbing and not. I've only tried a gentle run but it made it a bit sore. I've also sat in the sauna a few times, which makes it feel awesome!

I've been doing a few happy/angry cats followed by lying on my back, stretching out straight then raising my knees and dropping them to each side (30 secs in each position, just to stretch out), and finally scrunching/holding them in close. Have finished with some child poses for a while - but I still can't get fully into child pose without pulling on the lower back uncomfortably - instead I'm resting my arms on the floor and not dropping my head quite down.

Basically, it does seem to be improving slowly, but I was wondering if you could recommend anything to help get it going again, and to strengthen it once it's recovered.

Background info:
The only core I do at the moment is the shoulder-lock press-ups John Ostrovskis gets all climbers to do - which have been great for my shoulder injuries. They work my abs and lower back a bit due to holding in that position for a while - so I normally do the above stretches routinely afterwards.

I'm a 6'4 97kg punter. 

cheers guys

Hi, It sounds as if the lower back symptoms are definately going in the right direction and more often than not the stiffness is usually the persisting problem. It can be a combination of the brain wanting to protect the lower back and not letting you relax it when bending. The childs pose position is a great passive stretch. I would also get your pelvis moving by either lying on your back with your knees bent and try to flatten your lower back against the bed or do the same movement in sitting. I would then try in sitting to slowly bend forward between your legs and touch the floor. Try to relax your tummy muscles. Progress this into standing with enough knee and hip bend to uncurl you back into standing. You will feel tension in your lower back but this will become easier. Climb at a level that is below your usual standard and progress from there. I am sure your core is strong enough and the most important thing is efficient movement and not having overactive back and abdominals that will restrict movement. Also try to relax when running ie don't be rigid and make sure your trunk is rotating.
Hope this helps and if you are at the Cliffhanger event in Sheffield then we are their this weekend for any questions and advice.
regards
Matt

[HPclinic]

I have a problem that's been troubling me for a couple of months in my left heel. Its on the outside slightly to the left of the Achilles. Initially there was slight swelling but that's gone down with icing. If I stretch it by keeping my heel flat on the floor and bend my knee forward over my toes its tight and painful. The main issue is climbing shoes either exacerbate it or caused it due to the pressure of the rand in this area. I cut the rand on an old pair of shoes and generally I can climb with no discomfort and not much soreness later. however if I wear my muria velcros, tight and down toed I have to keep taking them off to relieve the mild discomfort and it will be sore the next day although this will ease with stretching and movement.
I did see my GP and he just said take over the counter Anti Inflammatorys which eased it in the initial stages.

This has caused some debate between us. Try calf stretches 2 or 3 times a day and some local massage before climbing and report back. You are right to relieve the pressure on it as it maybe compression of a small nerve on the outside of the ankle.

Progress report.
Doing the above as directed. I am still experiecing some stiffness and slight aching first thing on a morning and after prelonged sitting. I can now wear climbing shoes that before were too painful although there is slight discomfort but I don't get the pain and aching the following day.
I still don't have flexability I had before depite the stretching.

I have a problem that's been troubling me for a couple of months in my left heel. Its on the outside slightly to the left of the Achilles. Initially there was slight swelling but that's gone down with icing. If I stretch it by keeping my heel flat on the floor and bend my knee forward over my toes its tight and painful. The main issue is climbing shoes either exacerbate it or caused it due to the pressure of the rand in this area. I cut the rand on an old pair of shoes and generally I can climb with no discomfort and not much soreness later. however if I wear my muria velcros, tight and down toed I have to keep taking them off to relieve the mild discomfort and it will be sore the next day although this will ease with stretching and movement.
I did see my GP and he just said take over the counter Anti Inflammatorys which eased it in the initial stages.

This has caused some debate between us. Try calf stretches 2 or 3 times a day and some local massage before climbing and report back. You are right to relieve the pressure on it as it maybe compression of a small nerve on the outside of the ankle.

Progress report.
Doing the above as directed. I am still experiecing some stiffness and slight aching first thing on a morning and after prelonged sitting. I can now wear climbing shoes that before were too painful although there is slight discomfort but I don't get the pain and aching the following day.
I still don't have flexability I had before depite the stretching.

It sounds like things are progressing and usually achilles type problems and in your case maybe some compression of one of the small nerves in your heel area, take time. You should find that the flexibility will slowly improve over the next month by climbing below your normal standard back to your normal standard. You may find some dynamic stretches such as lowering your heel when standing on the edge of a step helpful prior to climbing. All i would say is slowly load the tissues again and avoid progressing too quickly and overloading the achilles.
We are at the Cliffhanger event tomorrow in Shefield so if you are thir come and have a chat.
Regards
Matt

[webbo]

Thanks for the reply and the offer of being seen at Cliffhanger but due other commitments and being in the badlands of North Lincolnshire I can't make it.
You mention climbing below my normal standard back to my normal standard. So far this injury has not effected my climbing as generally I don't climb on consecutive days and when it was at its worse after a day I could usually get my adapted shoe on.

[Charlton Chestwig]

Hi there,

I'm looking for some help with my 'sore arm' issue! For a few years now (particularly bad flare-up last year and most recent case this week, hence the post) my right bicep has been in slight on and off pain after a session in which I have had to lash for holds whilst tired. This only ever happens with the right arm; the pain is where the bi meets the shoulder/chest muscle and comes and goes with body position. It doesn't seem to effect my function too much, I went climbing yesterday and there was no pain when climbing and I didn't feel any weaker than normal! There is a very subtle bruise in the location I described and the easiest way to bring on the symptoms is to pinch the top of the bi.

One way to describe the sensation is that I feel is as though I need to stretch the bicep out, like a tightness along with the slight soreness pain. Odd I know!

When I am not having a bout of this I still notice some very mild symptoms occasionally.

I've had quite a lot of deep massage and needling on it but the condition still returned this week!

Any pointers/advice would be much appreciated.

Rich

[rich d]

I've got a small ganglion cyst on the palm side of my left wrist,(going down of its own accord) second time I've had it, no obvious pattern with onset. No real pain, but wrist feels a little weaker than usual (that should read even weaker). Are there any preventative exercises worth doing? I did break my wrist a few times from 16 to early 20's but it seemed to recover well and hasn't bothered me in the 20 years since (apart from these 2 ganglion thingies). Thanks Rich

[cheers big ears]

Hi,

Normally I just read around for the hilarity but thought I'd ask a question just to be sure...

I've been bouldering for about 8 weeks and have made some progress (i.e. I can nor describe it as 'bouldering' rather than just 'leaning against start holds on a boulder').  Recently I've had a dull twinge in my left shoulder.

My left arm feels weak and hard to lift especially when I reach across my body (towards my right shoulder) the pain runs from the top of my shoulder to the top of my bicep?

The pain is noticeable bit nothing that I would normally worry about, and I seem to be able to climb fine with it?  Just a dull ache that lingers...

Any ideas? Particularly if its something I might aggravate further by continuing to climb?

Great resource BTW.

Cheers.

[Wood FT]

[HPclinic]

Hi there,

I'm looking for some help with my 'sore arm' issue! For a few years now (particularly bad flare-up last year and most recent case this week, hence the post) my right bicep has been in slight on and off pain after a session in which I have had to lash for holds whilst tired. This only ever happens with the right arm; the pain is where the bi meets the shoulder/chest muscle and comes and goes with body position. It doesn't seem to effect my function too much, I went climbing yesterday and there was no pain when climbing and I didn't feel any weaker than normal! There is a very subtle bruise in the location I described and the easiest way to bring on the symptoms is to pinch the top of the bi.

One way to describe the sensation is that I feel is as though I need to stretch the bicep out, like a tightness along with the slight soreness pain. Odd I know!

When I am not having a bout of this I still notice some very mild symptoms occasionally.

I've had quite a lot of deep massage and needling on it but the condition still returned this week!

Any pointers/advice would be much appreciated.

Rich

Hi rich
The biceps does not seem to be a problem if climbing is not a problem (hence why local rubbing does not help) The muscle is reacting to nerve compression in the upper arm. I suspect you are pulling the shoulder forward (protracting) to achieve the static holds.  Also ensure you are not stressing your neck when you climb by leading forward with your head.  It's more complicated than a local muscle injury so aim to change the shoulder position and check the neck position. Try this but you might need a full assessment. 
Steve and Matt.

[HPclinic]

I've got a small ganglion cyst on the palm side of my left wrist,(going down of its own accord) second time I've had it, no obvious pattern with onset. No real pain, but wrist feels a little weaker than usual (that should read even weaker). Are there any preventative exercises worth doing? I did break my wrist a few times from 16 to early 20's but it seemed to recover well and hasn't bothered me in the 20 years since (apart from these 2 ganglion thingies). Thanks Rich

Hi rich
The swelling in the wrist is probably as a result of the stress going through the joint and yes it's best to rest it temporarily.  With the repeated fractures you might have damaged the ligaments in the wrist and with time the joint is reacting. 
The carpal joint is complex and there are 8 bones that should move and if these are stiff you will probably experience pain.  Try taping the wrist for a few weeks and slowly increase the grades again.  Try some localised stretching of your wrist using your first finger and thumb and see how you get on.

Thanks Steve and Matt.

[rich d]

Cheers for the advice. I can now legitimately wear a Keith Lemon bandage ooossh

[HPclinic]

Hi,

Normally I just read around for the hilarity but thought I'd ask a question just to be sure...

I've been bouldering for about 8 weeks and have made some progress (i.e. I can nor describe it as 'bouldering' rather than just 'leaning against start holds on a boulder').  Recently I've had a dull twinge in my left shoulder.

My left arm feels weak and hard to lift especially when I reach across my body (towards my right shoulder) the pain runs from the top of my shoulder to the top of my bicep?

The pain is noticeable bit nothing that I would normally worry about, and I seem to be able to climb fine with it?  Just a dull ache that lingers...

Any ideas? Particularly if its something I might aggravate further by continuing to climb?

Great resource BTW.

Cheers.

Hi, it sounds like you are getting a mild impingement but only when you compress the shoulder ie arm across your body. As you are new to climbing back off a few grades and make sure you do not progress too quickly, tissues take time to adapt. Also ensure when you are reaching for the holds that you are lengthening through your trunk. Check you are not depressing the shoulder as this is also poor position to move from. Try doing exercises that are opposite to the climbing positions ie outward rotation exercises for the arm and back extension exercises. see how you get on and feedback.

[Charlton Chestwig]

Hi there,

I'm looking for some help with my 'sore arm' issue! For a few years now (particularly bad flare-up last year and most recent case this week, hence the post) my right bicep has been in slight on and off pain after a session in which I have had to lash for holds whilst tired. This only ever happens with the right arm; the pain is where the bi meets the shoulder/chest muscle and comes and goes with body position. It doesn't seem to effect my function too much, I went climbing yesterday and there was no pain when climbing and I didn't feel any weaker than normal! There is a very subtle bruise in the location I described and the easiest way to bring on the symptoms is to pinch the top of the bi.

One way to describe the sensation is that I feel is as though I need to stretch the bicep out, like a tightness along with the slight soreness pain. Odd I know!

When I am not having a bout of this I still notice some very mild symptoms occasionally.

I've had quite a lot of deep massage and needling on it but the condition still returned this week!

Any pointers/advice would be much appreciated.

Rich

Hi rich
The biceps does not seem to be a problem if climbing is not a problem (hence why local rubbing does not help) The muscle is reacting to nerve compression in the upper arm. I suspect you are pulling the shoulder forward (protracting) to achieve the static holds.  Also ensure you are not stressing your neck when you climb by leading forward with your head.  It's more complicated than a local muscle injury so aim to change the shoulder position and check the neck position. Try this but you might need a full assessment. 
Steve and Matt.

Many thanks, I'll consider this new info and get in touch if I need further help.

Rich

[cheers big ears]

Thanks for the advice, I've laid off for a while... and the pain moved around my neck and shoulder.  I've done some stretches and it seems to have cleared up.  Thanks.  I friend did make a fair point that due to the history of racket sports my left arm is probably weaker than my right by a significant margin... im probably just asking too much of it.

[roddersm]

Hi,

I have developed a pain at the front of my shoulder, which moves down my biceps. Not sure what caused it and it has deteriorated quite rapidly from a mild twinge to not being able to climb at all without pain over the past week or so.

It occurs when I pull down and even a mild contraction into a pull up position is really painful. I can even feel some mild pain if I bend my arm at 90 degrees and rotate my palms upwards and out.

Strange thing is I haven't been climbing much lately but had started doing some shoulder presses and narrow grip push ups to reduce the risk of impingement over the past few weeks.... could this have caused the problem?

Many thanks.

[Luke Owens]

Great idea, thanks guys!

I have minor golfers elbow on my right elbow. Can't pinpoint a defining moment which caused it but it's definitely from climbing.

I have had it for a few months, but it's never been painful enough to stop me climbing and I very rarely feel pain while climbing unless I do a really deep lock off or pull up with that arm. It only seems to ache/hurt afterwards when I've warmed down. More niggling pain than anything.

I've tried all the usual things for shifting it, stretching, icing, weights etc. but it always seems to linger. I've now give up on all of the above due to no results, probably not the best idea.

Do you recommend I just need to perserve with the stretching etc or something else?

Also any advice on preventing reoccurance would be great.

Many thanks,

I assume you are right handed?

You've tried the local things which dont work so it is probably referred from the shouder/neck area maybe from overuse of a mouse at work??

Worth trying swapping hands on the mouse and get your arm above your head during the working day and report back.

We are producing a video on elbow rehab and you may get some ideas from that.

HTH

I tried swapping the mouse round for a couple of weeks. I have less pain now and I'm not feeling it while climbing or wrose after climbing but it is still there niggling.

I can only really feel it if I do a lock off/pull up or if I straighten my arm out infront of me and stretch my fingers back towards the floor (I can really feel it then!)

Would be nice to completely get rid of it although it's not really stopping me doing anything.

Anything else I can try as you said it might be shoulder/neck related?

Thanks,

Luke

[Charlton Chestwig]

Another week another Boo Boo! 

Whilst climbing on Tuesday eve I was mid move with my left foot heel-hooking a good hold. I suppose it was a pretty full-on heel-hook with my knee turned away from the rock, my other foot not contributing much and pulling quite a lot on that left heel.

There was a loud crack and I collapsed out of the move, no pain, just the unpleasant feeling of something giving way. I lowered to the ground and found that I could stand/walk ok. Gave up on the session though.

So first of all the knee seemed to start to stiffen up and was worst on Wed morning. This has begun to subside (Thurs morning) but been replaced by a soreness below the knee, back of the leg on the 'off-side' (or upper calf). I imagine that there will be other symptoms too if I were to try putting the leg into positions other than regular stuff (walking, stairs, etc). But I've been a bit reluctant to examine this yet due to fear of pain and further damage!

I've been cooling the area, taking ibuprofen and trying to move about during the day.

I guess my plan is to see how things progress over the next few days before I do anything about it; but I would be very keen to hear what you guys think is the cause/remedy.

Many thanks for any help you can give.

Rich

[krymson]

Is it possible to tear a toe pulley?

i've been climbing every day this week but switching it up between overhanging and vertical, and doing a lot more balancy, vertical climbing than usual, where the feet are doing a lot of work on tiny edges.

today after a bouldering session the big toe on my left foot is distinctly painful when pushing down, and if i touch it is sore in the area where the A2 pulley would be if toes had a2's