[krymson]

Hey guys  as im climbing (slightly) harder these days Im having to launch for some questionable holds.

Just wanted to ask if its safe to latch these with a half crimp which is going to be more secure or or if its better to purely latch with the drag and transitioning to a crimp later on.

Im encountering holds i have to dynamically go to where they are shit enough that latching with a crimp actually makes a good difference in sticking it(and save me the effort of the grip transition), but at the same time i dont want to overload things and bust a pulley.

[Nibile]

On the matter of training on pockets, dragging, etc, I started training these prehensions more for a general fingers conditioning rather than for specific routes or problems (we don't have pockets here). It's important to have generally strong tendons in different fingers positions: for instance, latching an edge with just three fingers, dragging, can leave you with three options: you adjust and crimp; you drag and pull; you fall. Sometimes it's not possible to adjust and crimp, so that's why it's important to have strong tendons while dragging: you sack it and pull.
When dragging, pulleys aren't engaged - almost - at all and the finger is straight: this can easily lead to a feeling of over confidence and put an excessive stress on the tendon. I've had far more injuries from dragging than from crimping.
Hope this helps.

[Nibile]

More precisely, to me it depends on the importance of the problem.
If I'm training, it's probably not worth risking an injury, while if you're on the last go of your holiday, I'd go for it.
Of course, climbing at one's limit is not safe by definition.

[Nibile]

Touch wood.

[masonwoods101]

I pretty much always catch and adjust.... Or drag... Never catch half crimped.... If I catch half crimped (due to the uneven nature of outdoor holds) I end up adjusting anyway... Might just be me...

[Yoof]

Don't think I've ever caught a hold in any sort of crimped position...

[weakling]And almost every move I make is a deadpoint.[weakling/]