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Green Alternative crimp (Read 4428 times)

Kingy

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Green Alternative crimp
May 28, 2013, 11:37:16 pm
Unfortnately a small piece of the left hand lip crimp of Green Alternative exploded off yesterday.  :oops: This hold has already got worse since last year and what is left is now a 2 finger crimp/ pinch. I did the route afterwards but fear it is a little bit harder now. This would be candidate for a bit of judicious sika

Luthor

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#1 Re: Green Alternative crimp
May 29, 2013, 10:34:03 am
Relieved its still climable, although regret not managing to do it last week a little more now ! L

kc

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#2 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 09, 2013, 07:46:28 pm
This would be candidate for a bit of judicious sika
Is that the layman's brand term for epoxy, Vinylester , polyester etc resin?
Don't worry fucking muggings here has done the dirty work. AGAIN.

kc

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#3 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 09, 2013, 08:04:35 pm
Sorry Ted nothing personal. It's just like calling into the yard to pick up the daily work sheet. If I don't do it no one will.  How many of you would be putting in dubious tactics on Mecca if I didn't bust a gut putting this fucker back on. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=131112

Three Nine

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#4 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 09, 2013, 09:21:02 pm
As per my post on the conditions thread I didnt think the GA crimp needed fixing! You should have left the blocks off mecca too to keep the traffic down.

Kingy

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#5 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 09, 2013, 10:02:27 pm
Cheers for doing that Kristian it is really appreciated. I own a sika gun and was willing to use it if the demand to restore the hold to how it was before was there. The route was being done last week with the new smaller hold so it only made a small difference to the grade and wasn't crucial for a repair to be done, like if the hold had gone completely. If folk were clamouring for a repair to be done then I would have done it no problem. When the Chimes crimp bust off, I sikaed that back. Let me know what the next repair job is and I'll be happy to do it.

kc

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#6 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 09, 2013, 10:18:54 pm
Well I was there with the first ascensionist who was trying my new link. We came to the conclusion after inspection that a repair would be crucial as the forces applied onto the remaining spike would eventually tear the remaining  hold off.

Kingy

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#7 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 09, 2013, 10:45:22 pm
nice one. I know the first ascentionist also! Sounds like good reasoning  :yes:

Three Nine

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#8 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 09, 2013, 10:49:42 pm
Hold on, are we talking the high left crimp or the one on the lip?!

kc

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#9 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 10, 2013, 10:52:57 am
The one on the lip.

Three Nine

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#10 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 10, 2013, 11:01:28 am
Ah super. Repair of the high LH crimp would mean a return to the (inferior) left hand first sequence

Doylo

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#11 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 10, 2013, 11:12:50 am
You sound like Pete Harrison round here KC  :lol: That Mecca job looked epic, good effort sorting those blocks out!

dave

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#12 Green Alternative crimp
June 10, 2013, 01:58:14 pm
Someone remind me what route we're on about, is it the thing right of chimes?

abarro81

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#13 Re: Green Alternative crimp
June 10, 2013, 01:59:55 pm
Yup

dave

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#14 Green Alternative crimp
June 10, 2013, 03:08:24 pm
Right. I pulled a positive left hand hold off this a couple years back, just before the jugs, it just totally exploded in my hands on my second go, not surprised its still shedding bits.

 

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