[cha1n]

When it comes to heel sag where it molds on to the hold I like Testarossas.  They don't have much toe rubber though.

And the Testarossa has a really good toebox, similar but better than the solution - but the heel had quite a lot of deadspace for me, so I got rid of them (I think I'm allowed to comment as I've owned both of these models...).

[abarro81]

Rodma is on crack, boostics are stiff. Certainly stiffer than instinct laces, which in my opinion are the better shoe. Not tried booster s in anger yet but significantly softer than boostic.

[rodma]

Rodma is on crack, boostics are stiff. Certainly stiffer than instinct laces, which in my opinion are the better shoe. Not tried booster s in anger yet but significantly softer than boostic.

Hey I'm not on crack, just caffeine and a lack of sleep

I bought my pair in Paris. Perhaps the French ones are a little more, erm, french

or, which is more likely when you get below a certain size the midsole may behave differently since there is less shoe between the heel and toe section. I only take a 37 in a velcro/laceup after all

[SA Chris]

Have you got hooves for feet?

[cha1n]

Don't things get harder to bend when they get shorter (generally)? It was when you said that the instinct was stiffer that I got really suspicious. You're sure it was the boostic and not the booster? Not that the booster is super soft but it has got a split sole and whilst it's not "anything but stiff" it is softer than the boostic in the toebox.

[tomtom]

Having watched this thread over the last few days (as theres f*ck all else going on on UKB) all I can think is - Good grief - this thread is getting a bit UKC...

I'm with Stubbsy on this one - theres only so much you can garner from trying a shoe on in a shop. I recon pretty much ALL of the shoes I have bought have changed character once they've been used for a few weeks and ESPECIALLY when they've been stretched - as all rock boots do to some degree.. Anasazi velcro's - feel like the stiffest edging shoe of destiny out of the box, 3 months later and they're the ultimate grit shoe - and as they're just about to gasp their final breath they become the best ever ever smearing shoe - for about a week

Different shoes fit different people in different ways... I've seen folk with dragons on with a baggy heel - but mine fit with a super snug style...

Chain - if you've tried using 25 different types of rock shoes over 5 years you've clearly not found your match.. I've had c.10 pairs in that period - but only 5 types (until last year only 3.. when I developed a late in life scarpa habit).

Maybe its time for you to stop casting around the dancefloor for a better model and just take the one your dancing with back home?

[rodma]

Don't things get harder to bend when they get shorter (generally)? It was when you said that the instinct was stiffer that I got really suspicious. You're sure it was the boostic and not the booster? Not that the booster is super soft but it has got a split sole and whilst it's not "anything but stiff" it is softer than the boostic in the toebox.

what is wrong with you?

I know what shoes i bought, wore and were my favourites, Ive been through dominator lace ups x 4, dominator velcro x 1 (worst of the bunch), vortex x 4 (both lilac and limited edition red and white), vision velcro x 1 (my previous favourites, best international result and first fontainbleau font 8a in these), rockettes x 2 (feet too small for booster), stix x 3, instinct slippers x 1, boostics x1 and finally instinct vs x 2, since as previously mentioned, can't get boostics in my size on this island and haven't dabbled with mail order rock shoes from the continent.

the boostic has more flex in the toebox, whilst on my feet, whilst trying problems when compared with instinct vs on my feet on the same problems. the boostics climbed well straight out the box, where the instinct vs have a weird window of performance opportunity, but are a tolerable replacement. the instinct vs give way less feedback when onmarginal footholds they either stick or rip with no warning, where i can feel what is going on with the boostics.

everyone has differently shaped/sized feet and has a different style in climbing so hardly surprising that we have different experiences whilst comparing the same shoes.

Have you got hooves for feet?

i do in solutions, clop clop clop 

[cha1n]

Romda, but nobody apart from you have claimed that the boostics are soft. You seemed unsure initially which is the only reason I suggested that you may have got the model wrong, it's only now that you've decided you're certain that they were boostics. You think they're soft, fine. That's your opinion, I can only assume you climbed in clogs prior to owning them, no more will I comment on the ghastly things.

Tom, I must admit that most of my experimentation was in the first 3 years. In recent years shoes have been 1 pair of Muira VS women's (didn't love for various reasons) 3 pairs of dragons (one were odd for the size so are lurking somewhere in the loft) , 1 pair of teams (toehook shoes) and 1 pair of blackwings (wall shoes). So generally, I'm a 5.10 man. Had little spells with Scarpa instinct slippers and instinct laces and whilst the instinct laces were good, they weren't quite as good as dragons so stuck with them.

I agree that the thread is detracting from the original question and I doubt there's any other suitable shoes that haven't been suggested. Shoe manufacturers need to get on it and sort out a performance shoe with a decent heel!

[rodma]

Romda, but nobody apart from you have claimed that the boostics are soft. You seemed unsure initially which is the only reason I suggested that you may have got the model wrong, it's only now that you've decided you're certain that they were boostics. You think they're soft, fine. That's your opinion, I can only assume you climbed in clogs prior to owning them, no more will I comment on the ghastly things.

so you can determine my level of certainty without me ever expressing any doubt about the shoes i owned, as well as determine the level of stiffness of shoes without climbing in them. Bravo sir, bravo

[cha1n]

So you haven't actually tried them?

Yeah I must be mistaken or we handled different shoes unless you fondled the pair I purchased.

I tried them on in the shop, stood on some holds but didn't take me long to realise that they weren't for me.

I'm done here, you'll have to find something else to entertain you as I'm attempting to change my dual mass flywheel in my mondeo today...

[Doylo]

I'm glad I've started a big thread but id decided to stick with the White on page one 

[rodma]

So you haven't actually tried them?

Yeah I must be mistaken or we handled different shoes unless you fondled the pair I purchased.

I tried them on in the shop, stood on some holds but didn't take me long to realise that they weren't for me.

I'm done here, you'll have to find something else to entertain you as I'm attempting to change my dual mass flywheel in my mondeo today...

Yeah I'm still not getting where I ever doubted what I purchased I only doubted that we felt the same pair of shoes.

[Moo]

I tried on a pair of 5.10 hiangles the other day, It was only a cursory feel but the heel seemed great. I believe they've enlisted Heinz Mariacher to help with the design and the heel definatley feels more like a set of scarpas. The toe seemed a bit blunt but the pair I had on felt fairly stiff so here's hoping.

[andymarshll]

Any opinion on how they felt compared to dragons, teams or V10s?

[weakdave]

I would interested to try these. On the fiveten website it says they are decking them out in c4 rubber, so you would think they would have a bit of stiffness to them. It also says they are a budget shoe??? Probably just means they will only be 100 sheets

[Moo]

sort of like the stiffness of the original dragons with the feel of teams around the mid foot and the fit of a pair of scarpas or sportivas in the heel. Quite a lot of tension in the heel so it feels quite secure out of the box. The toe is quite blunt though, more so than dragons or teams and yes they were c4.

[Stubbs]

5.10's approach to new shoe development

[Paul B]

sort of like the stiffness of the original dragons with the feel of teams around the mid foot and the fit of a pair of scarpas or sportivas in the heel. Quite a lot of tension in the heel so it feels quite secure out of the box.

That heel looks the same as the one they used on the original second generation dragons (the first iteration of the lace-up versions).

[weakdave]

Any idea on RRP  or release date? I like the look of them and they cant be too bad if Sachi Amma did Realisation in them!

[tomtom]

5.10's approach to new shoe development

I found a picture of their design team working hard...

[DaveyDave]

Anyone recommending some for wide feet with big big toes and narrow heels? Grit bouldering's the name of the game, so stickier rubber is the one.

ps. My star sign is scorpio.

[Sasquatch]

Anyone recommending some for wide feet with big big toes and narrow heels? Grit bouldering's the name of the game, so stickier rubber is the one.

ps. My star sign is scorpio.

Dunno about the big big toes and narrow heels, but I like the instinct vs now for my ping pong paddle feet.  They're alsmot identical shape in the forefoot to the original solutions, but with a much better heel.  Only climbed in them a few days, but so far I love 'em.  we'll see how they break in.

[cha1n]

Tried on the Booster S and had a climb in them at TCA as they had the scarpa boot demo and I have to say that I'm impressed. By far the best Scarpa shoe I've tried yet. Well made as usual but everything worked. Good heel, lightweight, etc, etc. Toe was popping off of stuff a bit but think it was standard new shoe syndrome (they were brand new).

Pricey but if they came down I'd consider them.