[Duma]

Sure this must have been covered before so apologies in advance...

I've had a bit of a niggle at the base of my middle finger for a couple of weeks now, took 8 days off climbing last week and have been massaging it a lot, bit slack with the icing though. Anyway noticed on sunday at Huntshams and again this lunchtime at the wall, that it doesn't seem to hurt when fully crimped, but I really notice it when open handed on slopers or dragging pockets. This is the other way around from previous tweaks, so wondered if anyone had experience of what I might have done/how to treat it?

[slackline]

Candidate for Hallamshire Physiotherapy clinic Q&A

[Duma]

True, but I'm away from thurs to weds next week so was hoping to find some knowledge sooner.

[krymson]

flexor unit strain?

im no physio so dont sue me if im wrong but google it, compare notes with reputable sources to see if its what you got, and see what you can do in the meantime.

[abarro81]

Flexor unit was my initial guess too. Is it kind of in the palm?

[Duma]

Cheers for the replies, flexor unit sounds a possibility. Alex, maybe, but only just, it's right at the top of the palm/base of the finger. no pain away from this area though, and seems like with FU strains people often report pain all the way down into the forearm?

[abarro81]

Mine was definitely quite central in the palm when I tweaked what I presume(d) was an FU... so not really sure then. Sorry!

[krymson]

Cheers for the replies, flexor unit sounds a possibility. Alex, maybe, but only just, it's right at the top of the palm/base of the finger. no pain away from this area though, and seems like with FU strains people often report pain all the way down into the forearm?

if your symptoms dont match up probably best to play it safe, maybe ice things a bit and wait for the visit to the expert.

I'm a fan of taking climbing  injury advice from reputable sources -- mainly macleod, dr julian sanders and people who have a stated background in sports science/medicine -- but only if things match up exactly -- fingers are too important to play around with.

[Tombondphysio]

could be a lumbrical tear

See if your symptoms match up on here:
http://thomasbondphysio.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/finger-injuries-symptoms-and-management.html