Back2, mid pocket, half crimp. Two arms.
Quote from: Nibile on May 28, 2013, 10:36:09 amBack2, mid pocket, half crimp. Two arms. beastly.
Not a trick question: what are the benefits of dropping fingers over training with added weight?
Quote from: Nibile on May 28, 2013, 08:24:43 pmHey Rich!Had to think about that for a moment ...QuoteMid pocket is n. 8 Small pocket is n. 12 Right eye is n. 15. I think they call it this way.Wish I hadn't asked ... I am feeling like a weak punter again! So you don't bother with the special back2 pocket (7) for your back2 hangs?
Hey Rich!
Mid pocket is n. 8 Small pocket is n. 12 Right eye is n. 15. I think they call it this way.
I have no problem training grip types to get specifically stong on certain holds but there are more possible combinations than there are hours in the day and in my mind training for long-term gains (ie all fingers/most common grip) by hanging significant mass from your waist seems like a better option?
How does it work training front 3 and back 3 in a single session: middle 2 are taxed twice as much as index and little?
On the matter of training on pockets, dragging, etc, I started training these prehensions more for a general fingers conditioning rather than for specific routes or problems (we don't have pockets here). It's important to have generally strong tendons in different fingers positions: for instance, latching an edge with just three fingers, dragging, can leave you with three options: you adjust and crimp; you drag and pull; you fall. Sometimes it's not possible to adjust and crimp, so that's why it's important to have strong tendons while dragging: you sack it and pull. When dragging, pulleys aren't engaged - almost - at all and the finger is straight: this can easily lead to a feeling of over confidence and put an excessive stress on the tendon. I've had far more injuries from dragging than from crimping. Hope this helps.
i.e. I can hang monos on all four sets of fingers
One joint?Thinking about my climbing, I can't remember the last time I pulled on back 3.
One joint and I defo couldn't hang anything. Too busy eating/giggling