[peewee]

Edit my bad thought it was a video of it, its just someone saying he did it.

[petejh]

Edit my bad thought it was a video of it, its just someone saying he did it.

  That's the funniest thing I've seen in ages! I had no idea there was a John Craven's Newsround type thing for climbing. Was almost expecting a weather report for different climbing areas and and some 'in other news'-style footage of a family pet dancing in front of the X-factor at the end.

[Falling Down]

Great effort seeing this climbed.  I "discovered" Ysgo in '93 (having no knowledge that Al Hughes and Perrin had been there before) when scouting for surfing breaks, climbed a few easy lines and came back to Sheffield to tell Ben, Jerry and Jason that there was this massive boulder field with several mega lines, this one included.  They didn't believe me and we had no mats at the time either. 

The lad's done good. Let him have his name....

[Moo]

This just goes to show how apologist the UK has become, the last time the germans tried to come over here and rename everything we sacked Berlin

[Drew]

Wasn't there a furore about Ryan calling his route Berry Gerwick (or was it Gerty Berwick?)? Fuck it, some routes have shit names, some have good ones. To be fair no-one's ever going to top Conan the Librarian, so why bother?

[moose]

Gerty Berwick - it's supposedly carved in the rock nearby.  I always thought something like "Couldn't be Dunne" would have been apt given the history of the route.

[Doylo]

Das Pumpenhausen FA vid

[Luke Owens]

Das Pumpenhausen FA vid

"When I first saw the problem I thought what a bullshit..."

[Doylo]

Classic. Black rock in the tidal zone doesn't look appealing when the seas just gone out

[krymson]

Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.

Most wads get a lot of exposure as they progress, so when they are finally in the public eye they have an idea of how to present themselves.

Dave Graham, Nalle are interesting to listen to even outside of their climbing. Even Ondra, who I think most people can agree doesn't have much "natural appeal" is learning how to present to the camera and his videos are enjoyable to watch even outside the climbing - he's just a class act these days.

Hopefully MegoWad improves as time goes on, or the editing gets a lot better so we don't have to hear him talk so much.

[r-man]

You what? They asked him to talk about the problem, not tell a funny. And in a foreign language.

[underground]

Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.

Most wads get a lot of exposure as they progress, so when they are finally in the public eye they have an idea of how to present themselves.

Dave Graham, Nalle are interesting to listen to even outside of their climbing. Even Ondra, who I think most people can agree doesn't have much "natural appeal" is learning how to present to the camera and his videos are enjoyable to watch even outside the climbing - he's just a class act these days.

Hopefully MegoWad improves as time goes on, or the editing gets a lot better so we don't have to hear him talk so much.

Hopefully he'll get Morecambe and Wise to do his narrative next time, after all they are a class act and enjoyable to watch outside their climbing..... 

[Doylo]

Calling him a douchebag for not entertaining you with his dialect and presenting style is very harsh. The rest of them are hardly a joy to watch (Dave Graham is the exception).

[erm, sam]

Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.

So you want all top climbers to be well schooled media savy entertainers? What a boring world that would be. There are already enough generic soundbites " Looks like a cool problem, I was psyched to try it, it was really hard but I put it all together and got the send, definatley a proud line blah blah blah"

[dr_botnik]

Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.

Bit harsh eh? Kids still young enough his voice is just breaking...

I was too busy thinking how great all the moves looked!

[Davo]

A douchebag! Very harsh I reckon.

Personally I thought he came across well - young psyched climber talking in a non-native language.

As to Dave G and Nalle, I am not that keen on any of them talking that much to be honest, they are not exactly great thinkers just amazing crimpers.

Dave

[ferret]

I went to an early chris sharma lecture in bishop that was so dull 25% of the people left before the end. Id sassy world class climbers who are genuinely entertaining are quite a small minority.

[a dense loner]

I hope that was spur of the moment davo?

[krymson]

sorry guys, didn't have my morning coffee when i wrote that.

I had just finished watching some videos of some beautiful Irish climbing and the latest 3 Strings Production. None of these films had amazing climbers or super hard testpieces yet they were each inspiring - they made you want to get out and climb!

And then i clicked play on this - the video of one of the FA of (from what i can tell) britain's most historic bouldering lines and it starts off with him calling the problem "shit".

It seemed plain disrespectful and after watching a few more minutes and the climbing footage not being particularly better than what most of you guys put out, that was just my immediate opinion.  Too harsh? in hindsight yes, but I just feel like for a line that has history to it and for possibly the worlds best climber right now, the video could have been done better.

[Doylo]

sorry guys, didn't have my morning coffee when i wrote that.

I had just finished watching some videos of some beautiful Irish climbing and the latest 3 Strings Production. None of these films had amazing climbers or super hard testpieces yet they were each inspiring - they made you want to get out and climb!

And then i clicked play on this - the video of one of the FA of (from what i can tell) britain's most historic bouldering lines and it starts off with him calling the problem "shit".

It seemed plain disrespectful and after watching a few more minutes and the climbing footage not being particularly better than what most of you guys put out, that was just my immediate opinion.  Too harsh? in hindsight yes, but I just feel like for a line that has history to it and for possibly the worlds best climber right now, the video could have been done better.

I didn't find it disrespectful, honest more like. Would you prefer he lied and said it had taken his breath away even though it was dank and greasy?

[dave]

Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects. Video aside, I'd much rather this project had gone to a local who'd invested a bit personally and emotionally into it and the crag in general. Thoughts etc?

[Doylo]

Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects. Video aside, I'd much rather this project had gone to a local who'd invested a bit personally and emotionally into it and the crag in general. Thoughts etc?

I'd rather a local like Pete or Nodder had done it but it didn't look like happening any time soon so in that case i find it more inspiring the climb becoming a reality rather than just sit their for X years.  There's plenty of newies for local climbers to get stuck into.  Pete Robins has done some great 8b first ascents and Nodder has some quality FAs.  If a local isn't going to do in the near future i'd rather someone did.

[rginns]

Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects. Video aside, I'd much rather this project had gone to a local who'd invested a bit personally and emotionally into it and the crag in general. Thoughts etc?

 
Not sure whether it was anyone's personal project or just a line waiting to be grabbed, but I'd be pissed off if someone came along and bombed up a line I'd been looking at and trying. Not that projects should be permanently and exclusively reserved forever for the person trying it, but if someone has cleaned and been trying a problem and people know this, it's only respectful to leave it to them for a bit.
I've seen climbers back off projects when they know others have been trying it (even though it was within their abilities), and this works well.

[Doylo]

I've actually warmed to the name now (without Testpiece on the end) 

[SA Chris]

Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects.

Nothing compared to this multiple project giveaway

http://www.climbing.co.za/2013/07/wow-prow-topo/

I would have had saucepan lids and padlocks all over it.