[jakes]

Interview and video with Megos here (from when he visited for CWIF):

http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2014/05/gimme-kraft-one-week-alex-megos-uk-vid/

Does anyone know why he's so keen NOT to go to LPT (see 19:35 in video)?

Guess he didn't rate the place when he visited Wales last year...

[Wood FT]

I heard it's becuase he's scared of old people and so the drive through Llandudno left him in pieces, and it was wet.

[petejh]

Ummm, because he thinks it's shit? - is that what the film is supposed to be cheekily suggesting  

Good film, really cool to see him having a good experience in the UK, better than the last visit.

[Jaspersharpe]

What did Doylo do to him?! 

[Nibile]

What did Doylo do to him?! 

Pumped him in his house with his testpiece?

[Doylo]

I wished I'd told him his bulge was big now...

[tomtom]

He wasnt effusive about Peak lime either :D

His description of climbing at Raven Tor reminded me of how you might politely describe an unappealing blind date....

[gme]

He wasnt effusive about Peak lime either :D

Ondra kind of hinted the same thing to me. Cant remember the exact wording but it was along the lines of Ravens tor is shite and he wouldn't bother coming to the UK if it wasn't for malham and kilnsey, which are both world class.

[krymson]

His Action Directe send:



Dude needs to get a real film crew. He's breaking history at every move and we're lucky to catch it on cell phone cameras.

[slackline]

9a+ and 9a new rotes for Alexander Megos in the Frankenjura

[slackline]

Alex Megos (as part of a team) frees The Fly (500m, 20 pitches with p17 8b, p19 8c and p20 8b+)

[SA Chris]

Should this thread become Megoswad, now that Ashmina(mini)wad has gone quiet?

[Muenchener]

Should this thread become Megoswad, now that Ashmina(mini)wad has gone quiet?

Not until he either has more first ascents on the Frankenjura Top 100 list than Markus Bock (might take a while) or climbs 9b+ (might not take very long?)

[slackline]

Just drop the "in Wales" bit from the title.

[SA Chris]

Whatever you think is best slackers, you're in charge.

[slackline]

 

[casa]

supurb effort. However 'pitches weren't climbed entirely in order'....mmm (scratch head emoji). Now i'm not really au fait with big multi pitches. But surely you start at the bottom and climb to the top, no?

[slackline]

I guess you could aid through a pitch climb one or two more, then abseil back down to free the pitch you aided.

[Rocksteady]

supurb effort. However 'pitches weren't climbed entirely in order'....mmm (scratch head emoji). Now i'm not really au fait with big multi pitches. But surely you start at the bottom and climb to the top, no?

I'm not particularly au fait with multi-pitches either, but from reading Steph Davies' book I got the impression that it's pretty standard not to climb from bottom to top. Often people will claim to have 'freed' a route when they've climbed every individual section of it free - but not in one push. You could ab in and free a pitch you hadn't done, then jumar out the rest of the way.

Sounds like something of this order has happened here.

[Nibile]

Maybe in these cases it could be of some help to distinguish between "freeing the route" that is climbing every pitch free in no special order, and "climbing the route free" that is going from bottom to top climbing every pitch as they come and without falls.

[ducko]

Little German freakshow

[lagerstarfish]

only slightly off topic...

Did he manage anything of note on the grit recently?

[shark]

only slightly off topic...

Did he manage anything of note on the grit recently?

Dave burnt him off on the Joker on Saturday.

Apparently he's only over to train.

[lagerstarfish]

I guess getting pasted by Dave must be good training for the next time he gets pasted by Ondrawad

[Wood FT]

only slightly off topic...

Did he manage anything of note on the grit recently?

nothing on the grit but who cares - he was really strong on the Wave