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T-bone Wilson (Read 1990 times)

dontfollowme

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T-bone Wilson
May 25, 2013, 11:23:45 pm
Me ans a mate did this from standing today. The sit start seemed hard. We were starting match on the rail, right heal on, lh to left good crimp rocking right for poor crimp for rh. On getting this, it felt hard getting to the next crimp for the lh.


Is this the way?

Duma

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#1 Re: T-bone Wilson
May 26, 2013, 09:31:33 am
No. This is the way: heel
 ;)

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: T-bone Wilson
May 26, 2013, 10:03:05 am
Sorry dfm it was so long ago I can't remember. I'll try and find the old pics they might shed some light. Bet everything else was well mossy!

dontfollowme

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#3 Re: T-bone Wilson
May 26, 2013, 09:48:18 pm
No. This is the way: heel
 ;)

Cheers.

bolehillbilly

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#4 Re: T-bone Wilson
June 03, 2013, 08:18:06 pm
Did Tasty Yellow Beef and Camden Leisure Pirate yesterday, both catching some nice light at sunset.  Top quality rock and fairly clean apart from the finishing holds which needed de-mossing.  TYB is a very good problem.  Chinese Cadbury Wolf needs a proper clean and the top of T-Bone still needs a bit of work for my comfort.  I'll post up if I get back and clean up as it's a great block and worth a visit. 

starting match on the rail, right heal on, lh to left good crimp rocking right for poor crimp for rh. On getting this, it felt hard getting to the next crimp for the lh.

Tried the sitter this way and also same right heel then going with right up to good crimp, matching left hand and then moving right down to poor side pull as per BMC p469.  Neither worked for me and I'm citing failing light and anxiety over the pending death-walk out as the reasons.
There's plenty of climbing in T-Bone without the sitter.  What's the grade from standing?

 

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