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The view from another window
13 July 2011, 8:48 am

Over the last few week I have been embroiled in re-instating some windows in my house that have been previously blocked up. However, given the nature of the house I live in, this has not been a matter of removing a few bricks from an existing window opening and stuffing it with a pre-assembled sealed double glazed unit from Wickes. Oh no, I dream of such a simple life...

Here are the blocked up window openings:



So first I need to make the leaded lights to go into the opening, several days of lovingly cutting each individual glass diamond by hand, stretching and cutting the lead, positioning everything and then soldering it up gives me a pair of each of these:







Then to remove the numerous large blocks of stone to expose the openings for the first time in approximately sixty years.

Almost there:



Some of the stone removed, with a hammer for a sense of scale:



And finally put in the new leaed light panels and supporting steels:



I'm really pleased with how these have turned out, and it's obviously made a massive difference to the light levels inside. Just a few bits of finishing off detailing then they'll be done and focus shifts to finishing off the room inside. The endless joys...

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Know Thyself
13 July 2011, 8:49 am



Until we see what we are, we cannot take steps to become what we should be.

Charlotte P. Gilman

If you want to get somewhere you've never been before (Basingstoke for example) then it's handy to have a map. But that map is worthless if you don't know where you're starting from. If you know where you are then the map becomes very useful and can (if you read it correctly, and it's an accurate map) lead you to exactly where you want to go.*

Improving at climbing is a lot like trying to get to Basingstoke. It's all very well and good reading various articles in magazines and on the net about training but if you don't know where you are it's very hard to take effective steps to get somewhere new. So before embarking on a new cycle of training utilising the latest research on micro and macro cycles and such like take a moment (or indeed several moments) to assess where you actually are in terms of your climbing. I know you've read this “self assesment” stuff before, but that's because it's true.

How you do this appraisal of your own climbing is quite important. That's not to say there is a “right” way to do it and all other options lead to failure and disappointment, but it's helpful to keep in mind why you are doing the review. The idea is to give a reasonably accurate picture of where your climbing is and (very importantly) where your weaknesses lie. Some people will construct tables scoring different aspects of their climbing out of 5 (or 10), some people (like me) will have a slightly less structured (but no less accurate) view of their climbing. It really doesn't matter the exact approach you take as long as you can draw effective conclusions from your results.

I will however give two top tips for assessing your climbing:

1) Avoid overly general statements

“I'm good at slabs” is too general. People have said to me “you really like slabs don't you?” several times over the years, the implication being that I am good at slab climbing based on me having climbed some tricky slab routes. It's a fair comment but in terms of assessing my climbing almost meaningless because when I reply “yes I do...” there is an unsaid series of caveats rolling through my head “...as long as they don't involve bridging, or really reachy moves or very small sharp holds or anything involving frog legs or...”. To the extent that saying I like slabs is not saying very much. Rather than “I'm good at slabs” the thinking should be a bit more specific:

I'm good at smearing on slabs

I'm good at high-steps

I'm good at balancing on slabs

I'm bad at bridging

Etc etc

2) Don't get bogged down in minutiae

This is the opposite end of the scale, if you know you can hang on for 5 seconds on a 15mm flat edge on a 40º board and 3 seconds on a 10mm flat edge on a 40º board and 7 seconds on a 15mm edge on a 30º board and etc etc etc etc, then you know a lot but (dare I suggest) you may be over-analysing? Whilst you need enough data to assess your current climbing weaknesses and strength too much data will muddy the waters, perhaps all the above would be better said as “pretty good on crimps on steep ground”?

Anyway as so often in life the ideal is to aim for the middle ground where you have enough information to make an assessment but not so much that you need a supercomputer to analyse the results. The scoring system seems like a good starting point to me so maybe try that first. Once you have some information you can start to address your weaknesses and imbalances in your climbing, and that's where progress is made.

*Having a coach is a bit like having a GPS in that the coach can work out where you are then give you directions to Basingstoke from there. Although obviously the more involved you are in the process and the better you understand your climbing the sooner you'll get there. Also, in common with a GPS, you need to tell your coach you want to go to Basingstoke. Otherwise he might direct you to Swindon, and nobody wants that do they?

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Newton Roolz
13 July 2011, 8:50 am



Ye cannae change the laws of physics.

Scotty, The Enterprise

A few years ago in the face of some apple based inspiration Newton came up with a handful of rules regarding the operation of the world around us and, with the exception of the weirdness that occurs when you look at very small things, these rules have remain pretty much unchanged. Which is nice, but what's this got to do with climbing?

Well I'll tell you. Often when someone (usually but not exclusively Mr Dawes) performs some mind-bending feat of climbing it is described as if the individual was “at one with the rock” or “as if the laws of physics don't apply”. It's all very inspiring sounding but in terms of learning and improving your own climbing pretty much valueless. Nobody can cheat the laws of physics, there are two elements to climbing:

Your biology which will limit what your body can do

The laws of physics which will limit what a body with your biology can climb

So when somebody out-climbs you it's not because they are “at one with the rock” but because they are doing something which you are not. It may be something as basic as they are stronger than you, or it could be a minor positional tweak (their flagging foot is 5cm further left than yours giving them a more balanced position). But whatever the difference is it certainly is not their oneness with the rock (or any other equally meaningless flim-flam). If you want to improve don't accept that a better climber than you is “just better”, work out what the difference is and then you have a weakness to address. And don't fall into the trap of thinking it's just because they are stronger, that may well be the case but it often isn't (more often than most people realise...).

Having said all the above lets not completely remove the romance from climbing. I've had days when the sun has been shining, it's been cold and crisp, the crag has been deserted and a flurry of soloing has gone effortlessly and as I sit on the crag top drinking my cup of tea with the dog lying at my feet I will think back to how a few minutes ago I was climbing at one with the rock. Because after all when the analysis and training is complete who doesn't deserve a little inspirational flim-flam back-patting?

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Season Opening
14 July 2011, 7:22 am

It would seem the sport season is upon us. I think this is as much to do with the fact that sport climbing is currently in vogue as it is to do with the weather. In previous years I'm sure all the strong young things would still be flinging themselves from various bulging lumps of grit at this time of year, and whilst some obviously still are there's plenty that are on the white stuff. The fickle nature of climbing fashions. Anyway enough of this, on with the sport.

The plan a week or so ago was to head to Trollers Gill and try and open my sporting account for the season with a quick red-point of Angel Heart to get the ball rolling. It gets 8a in the Rockfax guide but in reality is 7c, or it was before I tried it. The plan was to do it in a session, a bit of dangling on the rope to get the moves sorted and then an effortless float up on the sharp end. All is going reasonably swimmingly until, in a fit of extreme overgripping, I rip a jug off and it shatters as it hits the ground. Now this jug was just before the crux sequence and provided a reasonable pre-crux-moment-of-contemplation point and was also handy for reaching up to clip the fourth bolt. So it falling off pretty much changed to route completely and, given my dwindling window of free time and the requirement to work a new sequence, put pay to my "in a session" plans.Grrrrrr...

Oh well a week-ish later and I'm back, a new sequence is worked out using a sidepull that was next to where the jug used top be. It makes a pretty significant change to the difficulty of the route for a few reasons. The climbing is obviously more powerful and the crux sequence is longer now but also the fourth clip now has to be done mid-crux and is a little bit gripping. After a few unsuccessful redpoints I finally managed to get it in the bag on the last attempt of the day, which was nice. In it's current state it's probably worth 7c+/8a so a promising start to the season. What's next I wonder...

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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A Great Day
14 July 2011, 7:24 am

Monday was spent at Troller's Gill with the guru, we had both over-extended our credit limit at the Banco De Famile to get out and the weather was supposed to close in big time by early afternoon so the pressure was on to get some quick results for our foolhardy gambles with the tolerances of our wives.

Things got off to a steady start for both of us on our respective targets for the day with both making good progress with our first couple of redpoints. My third attempt, with the weather turning for the worse, saw me get to the top of my project to give a new route. In keeping with the canine theme of the place I've gone for Moddey Dhoo as a name and the grade of 8a+. Which means that's all the rock eights ticked for me and, as a Brucey-bonus, a first ascent of an eight at all three events (trad, boulder and sport). Which I'm very pleased with, and that in itself would have been a very good day out however there was still the small matter of the guru's project. After my success he went for his fifth redpoint of the day, fell from the very last hard move, and tweaked his back. Disaster. And the rain continued to fall and now there was run-off at the top of the crag. And this is a project where he's said that if it doesn't go in the first couple of redpoints of the day he's unlikely to do it as he'll be powered out.

So a rest for five minutes, a quick stretch out and, with run-off pouring onto the top holds of the route and a strained back he sets out on the SIXTH redpoint of the day after a few encouraging words from me. And he totally destroys the route, he crushes it so completely. I'm impressed. Giving us Velveteen Rabbit (8b). Two new routes, a great day.

We walk back to our vehicles getting totally soaked and my van now stinks of wet dog. I don't care, I'm still smiling two days later. Climbing is the best thing in the world.

Moddey Dhoo (8a+) First Ascent:

from nik jennings on Vimeo

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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A Blow By Bleau Account
14 July 2011, 7:39 am

Ahhh the juex de mots potential of Font, just another reason why it's such a great place.

Lists were made, ticklists and packing lists, but in the end both failed to deliver the hoped results. The ticklist is always at the mercy of the whims of family and friends so is a regular casualty on the Font trip but the packing list is usually a safe bet. Mind you it is usually in the safe hands of my wife. So pants, passport and climbing paraphernalia were flung in various bags and then the various digital accoutrements of modern life were lovingly ensconced in a single padded bag and stowed in the boot. It's time to go, but wait a minute whats the address of the hotel we're staying at in Dover? I dunno, I'll check, get the computer out...

I'm sure you can guess the rest. Suffice it to say the lovingly packed bag of electronica was comfortably settled on the sofa when we returned home.

Anyway, on with the diary:

Saturday 16th

Wake up in Dover, get on the ferry, swan through Northern France and arrive at Maisonbleau mid afternoon and god is it hot, 25 degrees according to the car. The gites are still been fettled so we head to Buthiers to warm up/dig holes/snooze. I decide that the ideal warm up would be Coccinelle, a problem I have done previously. Whilst the flash was hopelessly optimistic it was heartening to get it ticked in a handful of attempts, I then did the alternative easier finish version just to do something new. Then back to the gite to make food for the troops.

Sunday 17th

Tried to get out early, and failed. Went to Hautes-Plaines and the birds dibbed first climbing session, then they continued on to Sablons. The boys got a look in at lunchtime, by which time it was back up to yesterdays temperature, we headed to the Rainbow Rocket Block, I had a couple of throws at Voltex before doing Mortel Transfert then did Les Pantins Sociaux on the back of this block. Then we returned to Hautes Plaines for a couple of quick flashes of Lapin Ou Canard and Ah, Plus Facile?. Although given that they both share a common start I guess it's not possible to flash them both, cue some silly ethics debate somewhere on the net...

Monday 18th

Back to Buthiers, ladies day, stinking hot. Manage to sneak off and get up Le Dernier Probleme Droite in a couple of goes. Geez has this got a sharp hold on it, watch those tips.

Tuesday 19th

The team is keen for Potala, I'm indifferent. We head there but manage to get out early (when it's still pretty cool) so I pop across to have a quick look at L'Atelier at Guichot. Neil mentioned this to me a couple of days ago as something well worth checking out. He'd described the sequence to me and looking at it from the ground I could see why it appealed to him (as a gent of the taller persuasion), one of the moves looked HUUUUGE. Anyway the rest of it looked steady away so I placed the mat under the obvious crux move and got on it. The start is just a steady traverse on good holds, then a drop down onto a good sidepull-jug with your left, come over with the right hand to a good slot, bring the left hand down and in a bit to a slopey hold and pop your right foot up onto the good sidepull-jug. Then the big move, the ultimate aim is a left hand gaston about six miles away but first I popped the left hand to a poor finger dimple, then a big lock and tension to a stupidly poor nothing a few inches shy of the gaston then a final positive launch, keep it tense hit the gaston latch it stabilise. A slight foot tweak then I (with my twiddly little fingers) can match the gaston. Swing the feet round and pop a left heel on then finish. The end is steady but I was tired and didn't really know where I was going, and it's a bit bulgey and the feet are a bit blind and my foot pops, I start to slide a bit but claw the fingers, scrabble the foot on and gracelessly haul over. First 8A flash, and it's in Font. Good times. Spend the rest of the day playing fire-engines with lard at Potala (but also sneak up La Poussiere Qui Tue), yet again it is very hot.

Wednesday 20th

I'm a broken man, yesterday exertions have done me in. Isatis is busy and hot and I do a lot of sitting and looking. In the interests of ticking something every day I drag myself up Le Faux Baquet.

Thursday 21st

The ladies bagsey the first slot today at Apremont and by the time we're up for action the heat is just ridiculous. In a desperate bid to get a 7's & 8's tick I stoop to this. It actually turns out to be a nice bit of climbing, but looks rubbish. It would make a great top-out it's just a shame there isn't a problem under it.

Friday 22nd

Last day, hottest day. I am still a very broken man. Things are getting really desperate now so there's only on thing for it. This is rubbish but it's a tick (yes I'm that sad). To compensate I do Beatle Juice twice as it is brilliant, but doesn't count as a tick as I've done it previously.

Summary

A good trip despite the outrageous heat. Tailed of a bit at the end though, as ever...

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Footwork - The Very Basics
14 July 2011, 7:43 am



I dazzle you with that footwork.

Bobby Darin

Think about where you want to put your foot

Put your foot there

Don't move you foot again until you need to

Simple.

OK, so it's a bit more complicated than that...

Think about where you want to put your foot:

Which foothold do you want to use? Which part of the foothold? Which part of your boot do you want to use? Will a toe be most effective? Or an outside edge? Or a heel? What will be the orientation of you foot? In which direction will you be applying force? Etc...

Put your foot there:

Exactly there where you have been planning, not near there or around there, or there but at a different angle. Put the bit of your boot that you want on the hold on the hold, and put it on the bit of the hold you want it on. Be precise.

Don't move your foot again until you need to:

A sure sign of sloppy footwork is constant little adjustments, if you're foot is in the right place and at the right orientation it shouldn't need to be moved.

Obviously these are ideals to aim for, even climbers with very good footwork will spend a lot of time not using their feet in this perfect manner, after all smears can creep, sequences can be misread, other things can happen. But if you can aspire towards following those three simple guidelines then you'll provide yourself with a sound base on which to build good footwork.

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Time is a human construct...
14 July 2011, 7:45 am

...and we should have made more of it!

The odd thing about blogging is that when you're busy doing interesting things you have no time to blog, and when you've got the time to blog you haven't done anything interesting to blog about, hey-ho.

Anyway of recent times I have been spending a lot of time working and a bit of time climbing. I'll not dwell on the working too much, or indeed at all. However on the climbing front since returning from Font my efforts have been directed in a sporting direction. There have been a couple of high end efforts (for me at least) which have yet to end in success, but I remain hopeful. There's also been pastures new visited, well pasture actually. Yew Cogar was a crag that on paper never massively appealed, it was down a steep hill meaning a hellish walk-out and seemed to contain longish (from my bouldery perspective) routes. However I finaly succumbed to pressure from the Stallion and ventured down, and it was ace. The hill wasn't that steep, the routes weren't that long and the rock was luuuurverly.

Thus far my only success there has been Justin Time (7c) but I'll be heading back for some of the harder routes and Cruisin' For A Bruisin' which I want to save for a bit later in the season and give myself a decent chance of the on-sight/flash.

I've also revisited Troller's Gill and made a pretty quick redpoint of The Tinderbox:

This was pleasing as after Andy did the first ascent I tried to repeat it and found it a very stiff challenge. The crux felt very hard and even the supposedly easier section just after was a struggle. However this time the crux felt hard but pretty steady and the rest of the climbing was not in doubt, it seems as though my sport climbing is coming on.

I've also visited Kilnsey and got back on Metal Mickey. I first tried this eighteen months or so ago and it felt incredibly bouldery with every move feeling long and hard. So for my first session I was expecting to be making step-by-step progress so was quite pleased to have a quick go reminding myself of the moves and then on the second time on the rope climbed steadily up to the crux. My second session on this was just one attempt long without a warm-up and again the start felt steady. The crux moves still feel hard but I'm thinking this is probably game on.

Hopefully more to report soon...

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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It 'Aint 'Alf 'Ot Mum...
16 July 2011, 9:36 am

Last week I was in Spain clipping bolts in the heat, man was it hot.

Anyway I had a great time, climbing wise there weren't many highlights beyond a flash of Batman (7b+). I worked a few 8's which all seemed to have massive reaches on them (but then I would say that). A return visit in cooler conditions should see less working and more crushing (but then I would say that...)

Anyway here's some photos:



Flashing Batman...



...Still flashing Batman...



...almost finished flashing Batman.



Redpointing Muscleman



Very much not redpointing Rock n Roll Express.

Since returning I've not been feeling that healthy. I've had a very disappointing day at Kilnsey blowing a 7c onsight which, if I'd had the wisdom to wait until I was healthy, I would quite possibly have got (but I would say that). And an evening at Cadshaw Quarry getting eaten alive, which was nice.

Now it's very hot and humid and muggy, conditions which I certainly don't thrive in. I'm thinking of hitting the training and cutting back on the cragging until conditions improve. At least until someone suggests going outside...

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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You Can't Do If You Don't Try.
16 July 2011, 9:39 am



Each failure.. ..will increase your chances for success at your next attempt

Og Mandino (1923 - 1996)

First  off sorry about the long time since my last blog, time has been in  short supply of late. I was considering writing a piece about some  technical aspect of climbing, body positioning or slab technique or  something similar but recent climbing based activity has slightly  altered the content of this wittering.

So instead I am going to share with you this little nugget of wisdom:

If you want to do a climb, you first need to try it.

If  your aim is to climb 8a (a very common goal) doing some training is  excellent, working your weaknesses, getting stronger, improving stamina  and a host of other things is all very good. But if you don't get on an  8a you'll never do an 8a. This is true at any and every grade. So if you  aspire to a certain grade, pick a route/boulder problem of that grade  that you think will suit you and get on it. Even if you're dogging your  way up it or working each individual move. Then go away and address the  areas of your climbing that fall short. Or alternatively decide that the  route/problem you thought was the one for you in fact isn't, and then  you can get on a different one until you find one that does suit.

There  is an obvious caveat here of course. This doesn't work so well with  trad onsighting, I'm certainly not suggesting that if you fancy  on-sighting a bold E8 you should just have a go. Trad on-sighting is a  different game, and is definitely NOT covered by this post.

Of  course the alternative is to not be bothered about reaching a  particular grade, after all it's not all about the grade is it? Is it?

See you at the crag, I'll be the one hanging from a bolt of a route a few grades too hard for me :o)

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Spanish Sun
16 July 2011, 9:44 am

spain_2011_web

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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It's Been A While...
31 December 2011, 9:58 pm

Almost six months since my last blog, where does the time go?

The main reason for my lax blogging activities of late is this:

Sam Edgar Jennings made it into the world at 9:18 PM on Boxing Day weighing in at 7lb 1oz. Proir to his arrival I have been spending pretty much every spare moment trying to ready our house for the arrival. As anyone who has visited my house can tell you this is no small feat. Anyway whilst I don't anticipate having a sudden glut of free time forthcoming I am at least hopeful that the nature of my ceaslessly busy schedule will alter. It should in theory be easier to write blog entries whilst watching over a sleeping child than it is when wielding drill and hammer. But that is all for the New Year, for now I hope you all had a great Christmas and wish you all the very best for the New Year. I'm off to change a nappy...

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Climbing? The Isle of Man? Really??
2 January 2012, 11:25 pm

Yes.

I spent the latter half of August 2011 on the Isle of Man, I regularly find myself visiting this rocky protrusion in the middle of the Irish Sea to spend quality time with the in-laws, which is nice. Luckily Doug Hall (yes, the Doug Hall) is now resident on the Isle of Man so the opportunity for climbing is plentiful. For this particular trip I was in sport mode so was keen to clip some bolts. Fortuitously Doug has been quietly developing a sport crag on the island. Of course this been the Isle of Man and this been Doug Hall it was hardly going to be a roadside easy access crag of steady 6's and 7's oh no...

The Walk-In:

From the parking a brisk 10 minute walk uphill gets the blood pumping...

This gets you to the top of the "descent path", which is a grass slope which is I'd guess between 60 and 70 degrees and long, very long, I'd guess 400ft. Ok that doesn't sound that long but bear in mind, as you carefully make your way down this slippery glass slope with a laden pack on your back, that this is also the way out...

At the base of the grass descent is a small rocky bay from which a spot of precarious coasteering on wave splashed rocks eventually leads to the belay platform...

Ok platform is a generous term. It's actually a narrow shelf (say 20cm wide or so) about 15ft above the sea.

The Climbing:

The climbing is based around two sea caves in the cliff. The belay shelf is on a side wall and the main wall with the climbing runs perpendicular to it.

The warm up problem starts up the side wall before heading across and up the headwall of the main face to a lower off. It goes at about 6b+, so a nice warm up right? Well yes but as it traverses the lip of a large sea cave and the bolting is on the sparse side it would be perfectly possible to fall off into air leaving you the option of lower into the sea or prussick.

There are two other routes that start from the belay shelf, a 7c and a 7c+. Again they both traverse above the sea with plenty of falling into air sea-dip/prussick type potential.

And finally there's the 8a+. Which starts between the two caves. There are two options to get there:

(1) If the tide is at it's lowest point you can coasteer round the back of the first cave then climb a 7b+ first pitch which is seldom dry and even when it is dry feels damp. Or...

(2) Climb one of the other three routes (they all share the same lower off) then make a tensioned traversing down-climb to a bolt at the mid-point of the 8a+. From this you can then lower down the overhanging face clipping the bolts to take a hanging belay at the start of the route.

And once you've worked/climbed the route you need to get back which means getting back to the mid height bolt then climbing back up the tensioned traverse line (with no gear) to the lower off at the top of the other routes before lowering off down the rope that you tied off to the belay shelf, you did tie the rope off to the belay shelf didn't you??

The Walk Out:

By the time you leave the tide will have come in so the wave splashed rocks will be soaked for the coasteering, the hill will have grown from 400ft to 800ft and someone will have filled your pack with bricks. The downhill stumble back to the car is nice though...

Sounds epic doesn't it? Well it is, and certainly more committing than your standard day out bolt clipping, but it's also brilliant. I loved every minute of it.

The routes all finish up fantastic headwalls eighty-odd feet up with nothing below you feet but the crashing sea. The lower walls of the the harder routes are steep and great fun. It's certainly not to everyones tastes but if you like that sort of thing then you'll like this sort of thing.

Here's a photo topo:

From Left to Right:

Lime Green - Warm Up (6b+)

Red - Inbetweeners (7c)

Blue - The Groove (7c+)

Orange - The Shield (8a+) first pitch dashed line 7b+

If anybody finds this enticing or interesting then give me a shout, I'll give you more details. And if you fancy making a trip over there I can give you contact details for Doug, he'll happily act as guide for any keen climbers.

Of course if sport doesn't ring your bell and you'd rather a spot of adventure trad then here's a brief(ish) selection of some of the new trad that Doug has established on the island over the last few years:



Marine Drive, Douglas

The Big Bend - E6/7

Snake Eyes E5 6b

Santon Pinnacle Area

Voodoo Child E2 5c

Black Magic E4 6a

Witch Doctor E3 5c

Quartz Icicle E5 6a

Slap Happy E4 6b

Migrant Worker E3 5b

Santon Gully

The Left Hand Flake E1 5a

The Flake Just Right E2 5b

Pushing Daisies E3 6a

Wall Left Of Groove E3 6a

No Going Back E3 6b

Flight Plan E3 6a

Feel The Pain E4 6c

The Chasms

The Tooth Area

Sabre E5 6b

The Incisor E6 6b/c

Molar E5 6b

Primeval Wall

Omen E6 6b

Driven E6 6a

Manta E6/7 6c

Predator E6 6c

Horoscope E4 6a

Toother System E5 6b

Mansard E6 6b

Flawless E6 6c

Hang Dog E4 6a

Finite E3 5c

The Prow Area

Dynamite E4 6a

The Prow E5 6b

Elephants Ear E6 6b

Stainless Steel E5 6b

Railing Wall Area

The Quest E5 6b

Edge Of Reason E7 6b

One Life E4 6b

Forever Young E5 6b

This is just a selection of what Doug estimates at the 100+ routes he's done on the Isle of Man over the last few years, the majority E4+. And there is potential for plently more if you're willing to put the effort in. So enough for a weekend away I guess...

Again if anybody wants more information about climbing on the Isle of Man get in touch.

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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We're From The Isle of Man...
23 February 2012, 10:36 am



As it was half-term and the in-laws wanted an opportunity to goo-goo gaa-gaa at number two son a trip to the Isle of Man was scheduled. Now much as I like the in-laws I fairly clearly expressed the opinion that I wanted to "get out climbing", "quite a bit"...

..."please??"

So with a series of passes in place I was keen to explore some mroe of the trad on the island. There is an online guide to the Isle of Man (HERE) but it max's out at E2. Beyond that there is a pretty extensive collection of routes, mainly the work of Dougie Hall. And the majority of them await repeats.

Monday:

Travel over on the ferry with the boy lard, the dog and (critically) the car. It takes ages, borrrrrring. The wife and number two son fly, cunning. Speak to Doug, he's heading to the (new) wall tomorrow evening, I arrange to see him there hang up and then realise that its Feb 14th tomorrow, uh-oh. The mother-in-laws birthday, cry off from the wall, but agree an afternoon pass with the boss.

Tuesday:

Morning child herding. As one of them can't walk yet and the other is mesmerised by Scooby-Doo this is less testing than might be imagined, don't tell the wife though...

Afternoon I head out with a rope and shunt. I have in mind a project line that I saw last time I was over. I get to it and it's as I remember, vertical (maybe ever so slightly over hanging) small holds, no gear, 14 metres high. I sort out a rope on it and get to work. The sequence comes together pretty quickly, it's thin balancy moves, lovely. Then a hands off rest before the last move which is a really spooky high-step outside edge with a poor right hand undercut, full stretch to a good left hand sidepull jug. The reach is just far enough to make you think your foot will slip, creepy. The whole route is pretty sustained difficulty without being pumpy as you can get a lot on your feet (if your not over-gripping and gibbering like something gibberey). Anyway at the end of the session I shunt it in a oner. It all feels steady apart from one move which is a right hand foot match on a positive edge then a big rock up with a slightly unconvincing left hand to a positive right hand which is a looooong way away. I almost lose momentum and stop before I reach the hold, not a problem on a shunt. But if you tightened up on the sharp (solo) end you'd be off, 7 metres down to a ankle snapping boulder before carrying on down the steep boulder strewn grass slope to the boulder choked sea a couple of hundred feet down. Hmmmm, time to go out for a pizza...

Wednesday:

Another morning of Scooby Doo then..

Out alone again. Shunt the route cleanly straight off, brush it on the way down, shunt it again, brush it again. It's feeling steadier but it's still thin with an unpleasant dismount. Hmmm, have a slice of malt loaf. Another brush and check the solidity of the holds on the crux. Another piece of malt loaf, a drink of water. Helmet on, boots squeaked, off we go. It flows, I'm climbing smoothly and well and I quickly find myself at the hands off rest. Don't hang around getting spooked and freaked, chalk, left hand poor slopey edge, right undercut, it's too high so feels rubbish, left foot steps through and up to high smear outside edge, stand up weight on foot, move hips across to the right and flag right leg out for balance, reach up left hand, keep reaching, keep reaching, fingers on side of the sidepull now but still not round onto the hold, feel solid, raise the heel slightly for the final inch of reach, god that's scary, fingers curl, feet up high, pull, top. Breathe.

Tenaya E7 6b but probably hard at both..

Thursday:

Wall in the evening to meet Doug. New wall first visit. It's OK, given the limits of the building there's no point bitching about wall height, just go up and down until you get pumped... There are a couple of things that need sorting though. The bouldering wall needs proper mats, the lead wall needs some dense rubber flooring under it (several people "decked out" on rope stretch while I was there, it's inevitable given the length of the wall, nobody was hurt but...) and the music was too loud. Maybe I'm an old fuddy-duddy but I had a sore throat for the next two days as I spent the whole evening shouting conversations with people, it was like been in a party pub. Communication from the top of the wall to belayer was sign language only. Anyway I'd go back, can't say fairer than that.

Friday:

A day of rest (and cream teas, yummm)

Saturday:

Out with Dougie and Beef. Dougie knows the routes so I let him lead the way. He suggests top roping a couple of lines, fine by me. First off an E4 to warm-up. It's a bit pumpy but steady away, nice warm-up. Then there's an adjacent route called Mansard an E6 of Dougies that's unrepeated, I have a top-rope, pull the rope, have a piece of flapjack then lead it. Feel very steady, which is nice as it's overhanging and probably 16 metres, the kind of route I would have probably avoided in years gone by. A bit of sport fittness crossover training for trad?

Then Dougie poionted me at another E6, I briefly toyed with the idea of trying to on-sight it but as he'd already placed a top-rope on the line I didn't. Thank god, t'was filthy. Dougie went up first to show me the numbers and give it a bit of a brush then I had a pop. It was still really dirty, the rock on the Isle of Man seems to get covered in this fine powder which feels like graphite powder, really slippy and means you massively over-grip even on big holds. This route was a bit more sustained and combined with the dirt I just pumped out on the easier headwall, glad I didn't go for the lead it wouldn't have been fun.

Finally we went to have a look at a great looking line, another E6 of Dougies only this one has had a repeat. It's pretty long (25/30 metres?) and overhanging all the way. Apparently it's E2 to about half height then it kicks in with a crux last move. All sounds very sustained and pumpy and pretty much my anti-route. However it was catching the wind something chronic so we decided to leave it, I'll be back to try it though as it looks mega.

To finish off we tried a steep un-named E5 of Dougies. It was really steep but on good holds. I managed to drag myself up it but was almost caught out by a tricky last move just when you think it's all over. Hence the new name, "Scorpion" beware the sting in the tale...

Sunday:

Another day out with Dougie, and Squib this time. After yesterday I was keen to try some on-sighting. A couple of routes in particular appealed. But first the warm-up. I started off with Hut Circle Middle, a nice E1 up a slab then a corner with a steep move to get established in the corner.

Then I felt warmed up, it was a lovely day, blue sky, light breeze, I felt confident and like I was climbing pretty well so decided to go for my main target of the day. Levitation (it's called Hut Circle Mid-right on UKC) is another unrepeated E6 of Dougies and it looked pretty basic and bouldery from the ground, Obvious gear and then head for the top. So that's what I did.

A great fun route that went without a hitch, excellent.

Then Dougie lead Hut Circle Right (E4), then Squib had a lead and finally I got on the sharp end.

Then onto the other route that appealed. At the right end of Hut Circle Buttress there is a big roof which makes an obvious target. The nature of the handholds means the route (The Roof E5 6a) doesn't actually climb over the widest point of the roof, rather it attacks it from the right-hand side. It's still plenty steep though. Again I was keen to on-sight this so tied on and headed up. It all felt fine, the hold at the back of the roof felt ever so slightly damp but nothing to fret about. Anyway up onto the lip of the roof, then reach over and look for holds to top out and aaaaargh I'm blind. Serious sun in the eyes, a bit of groping finds a couple of holds and over I go. Would have been nice to be able to see things though. Dougie and Squib then both lead it.

(sorry about the poor video quality, I had to film pretty much directly into the sun)

Finally Squib and then I finish off with a lead each of Mandatory Scuttle, an E3 up the left sidewall of the roof. This is a vertical route with easy climbing to gear, then a spooky step out onto the sidewall of the roof, exposure, then one thin pull to the top. Then Dougie insists on a "mandatory scuttle" rightwards before topping out because "it's nicer". What a lovely day.

I had a great week in the Isle of Man, I really got my head round the climbing this time and was very pleased with the ticks I came away with, I'm absolutely certain that Levitation is my first non-grit E6 on-sight (which is nice) and I was pleased with the other on-sights/flashes. The new route is excellent, and when compared to the other routes I did on the island is probably right at the top-end of E7 6b, and the headpoint was pleasingly rapid (it's easy to feel disappointed and that I should have gone for the on-sight but I'll take the positive that I didn't "work" the route, I just did it on a toprope then led it). I was pleased with the confident way I was climbing, I honestly felt like I just wasn't going to fall off, even on the spooky bit at the top of the new route. I read the Jerry book just before going over, is that connected??

Anyway, here's some (not great, sorry) photo's, you deserve them if you've read all this...













Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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A Baildon Brace
25 February 2012, 6:35 pm



Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Could'a Would'a Should'a
26 March 2012, 11:05 am

I'd negotiated a morning pass out with the lads for Sunday hoping to take advantage of the early day coolness. The plan was a quick Burbage South raid. The cool(ish) temperatures were in evidence, unfortunately they brought with them a degree of dampness to the rock probably due to the overnight mist/haze. The ground was certainly pretty wet and the rock felt moist as soon as you touched it.

Anyway the hastily conceived target for the day was Nosferatu. After a brief warm-up with a spot of bouldering I got on the route, and then shortly after got off it in brisk style. A particularly damp feeling hold putting pay to my onsight plans. Half an hour of sitting around and the second go went easily. The rock still felt a bit mosit but the combination of a bit of time and a bit of chalk probably made the difference. A little frustrating really as it should have gone first attempt. Oh well, the tight scheduling of family life means hitting the right conditions window can be a bit of a gamble.



Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Spain, so good I went there twice...
11 May 2012, 8:53 am

A couple of weeks ago I got back from week of coaching in Spain. This was the second week I'd run over there in the last two months or so and both trips have been excellent (but I would say that). I'll not give you a blow by blow account of the two weeks. Instead I'll just say that everybody either attained or exceeded (in some cases massively exceeded) their targets for the week and everybody seemed to have a lot of fun on the way.

Here's a few quotes and comments from the trips:

"For me, the main benefit of the coaching was that it demonstrated what I was  capable of under optimum conditions. Good venues, route beta, and the  cultivation of a general enthusiasm for pushing red-points, led to my best ever  haul of routes. Specific criticisms of my technique were (brutally) accurate and  useful. Nik's porridge making skills might also have played a vital role! I left  the coaching with useful advice on technique and tactics and a genuine  expectation of making significant progress in the year ahead."

- Luke W

" I got the confidence to push myself as hard as I possibly could. I got the  rewards due to the encouragement and advice I received especially when my confidence  started to drop. Since the coaching trip I am climbing with more belief in my self and the  rewards have been huge. I climbed my third 6b+ onsight, however this was a  overhanging pumpy route not a slab. I also flashed my first font 6B and climbed  my first font 6C plus put a lot of long term projects to bed."

- Luke D

"A distinct improvement in grade Let's face it....7a redpoint - enough said!"

- Peter

"You taught me how to climb!  To my mind, the benefits from the coaching were primarily in instilling  confidence. As the week progressed that meant I started to enjoy the movement  involved in climbing outdoors as much as I like the mental battle (and as you’ve  seen, it is a battle sometimes). So while I fought my way to a near 6c onsight,  the redpoint was more satisfying in a way, because it felt like I really climbed  it. When I onsighted the 6b+, it almost felt relaxed and that felt brilliant. I  thought I understood the importance of feet, but I think you took my knowledge  of how to use them to another level. By doing so I became considerably more  assured in the use of smaller holds, the revelation being that using them for  balance will often suffice where they can’t be gripped. From that, the  confidence really started to flow. Ultimately, you gave me an understanding of  how to climb harder routes. Prior to that it seemed to me that the only way to  unlock them was to get stronger. I’m not sure how you could have improved the week - I had a terrific time."

- Tom

"The best four days of my life!"

- Rachel (on day four of the second trip)

"It was fantastic holiday, really enjoyable not only for the climbing (which was  ace) but also because it was a good laugh."

- Rachel

And a couple of photos:



 Tom having just red-pointed 6c (previous best 6a+)



Tom on-sighting 6b+ (previous best 6a)



Peter red-pointing 7a (previous best 6a+)

If you're reading this and thinking "that sounds like fun", rest assured it is. And I'll be doing it all again in Autumn. There are two coaching weeks planned, 13th-20th Oct and 20th - 27th Oct. If you fancy booking a place or would like further details just get in touch.

Cheers

Nik

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Manx Rock - Groudle
7 June 2012, 8:26 am



Routes

1) - The Pump E6 6b (80ft)

From the start moves on desire trend left into a small alcove. Go straight up on steep moves to a crack in the overhang. Climb the crack then continue up a slight groove in the headwall to finish left of Full Tilt.

2) - Desire E4 6a (80ft)

The left trending roof line left of Full Tilt. Climb up to the in-situ  thread then continue up to the roof. Follow the break at the back of the  roof leftwards to some blocky rock. The climb over the roof using  cracks to finish up some slightly exciting feeling rock.

3) - Full Tilt E5 6b (80ft)

The hanging groove left of the mystery bolt. Undercling past an in-situ  thread to get into the groove. Pull onto the face and head directly up  easier ground to a ledge. Arrange some gear then climb straight up to an  obvious diagonal break. follow this rightwards to the top.

4) - DeJa Vu E2 5b (80ft)

Start as for True Blue, arrange some gear then move left onto the face and take a rising traverse line to  an obvious niche. Arrange some more gear then head back right and up to top out.

5) - True Blue HVS 5a (80ft)

The obvious crack, rib, groove feature is followed all the way up.

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Parental Training
12 July 2012, 10:06 pm



Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Dads of Steel??
20 July 2012, 9:17 am

Well I certainly don't feel like a dad of steel after a couple of nights of very disrupted sleep. But the daddy daycare video has caught the attention of notabaddad.com

http://www.notabaddad.com/2012/07/daddy-daycare/#.UAkgaKOYEt0



Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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A Catch Up
18 April 2013, 9:02 pm

Almost nine months since my last blog post, I think I might have to work on my new media networking skills...

Anyway since my last missive I have visited Gogarth and the Llanberis slate quarries for the first time, and re-visited both. They are both venues that had been a pair of glaring holes in my climbing C.V. now I just need to do some routes in the pass...

...and in the Lakes...

...and Pembroke...

...oh and Scotland...

...the South West...

...Tremadog...

...Northumberland...

In fact pretty much anywhere that's not grit.

So here's a new grit route I did a few weeks ago...  

from nik jennings on Vimeo.

I first spotted this line last November when I first visited Summit  Quarry. I didn't try the line, but I did spend quite a long time looking  at the holds from various angles and trying to work out a sequence. I  also knew I'd need to get a lot stronger on mono's. So after three  months of thinking about the sequence, training mono's, being ill (a  couple of times) and a quick 8b ascent in Spain i was feeling pretty  much ready for an attempt. I  headed up to Summit with a plan. I wanted to on-sight  (hopefully cruise) Jaggernath, an E4 to the left. Then try and ground up  the project line. And finally try and ground up a route that goes  between the project and Jaggernath called Pylon Direct.

Anyway back to Summit and there is a  serious amount of mist everywhere, some people would call it drizzle or  even rain but I'm sticking with mist (in droplet form perhaps...). After  grumbling about the weather I roped up and on-sighted Jaggernath (awww to hell with modesty, I cruised it to be honest) but then I realised that conditions were  not conducive to pushing the boat out on a couple of potentially hard  routes so I binned it and went for cake.

The  next opportunity to get up there was the next week, which was fairly mint conditions, if a little snowy (and  cold). Andy led Jaggernath and then I warmed up with a quick couple of  toppies on it. Then I moved on to the project line with a view to ground  upping it and...

...shicka-ding I on-sighted it. Straight up with a few  power screams and a little "oh bugger" moment. Shocked isn't the word. I  started to think it was easy then luckily Andy tried the first couple of  moves and made not much headway, phew! I think E7 6c, but with a bunch  of pads it would become a highball. It's pretty hard climbing though I  reckon. So an on-sight which took three months, it's the first time I've  ever tried to specifically train for something which is only a  guesstimate of what I need to train and it worked out pretty well. Well  pleased.

Just to complete the story I then onsighted* Pylon Direct  which is probably E6 6c and is really good. And again a bunch of mats  would highball-ise it.

* it was on-sight but it shares a handhold  with Responsible Parenting. A hold you get with your left on RP you get  with your right, in a completely different orientation on Pylon Direct. So maybe the purists would like to have a lengthy debate about  the on-sightedness of it all...

Anyway I was very chuffed with this F.A., I'm not sure how many grit E7 F.A.'s have been truly on-sight, or even flashed/abbed but I'm guessing not that many.

I tried  to get video of Pylon Direct but only got 40 seconds of me taking off my  coat and such like before the battery died (of cold??) and the camera nose-dived  into the snow.

Finally massive thanks to Rachel and Andy for willingly trudging up there in freezing conditions and cheering me on.

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Just A Snippet
11 May 2013, 6:45 am

My next blog post is going to be epic, so I thought I'd warm you up to the job with a brief waffle covering a few bits and pieces I've done over the last few weeks before getting stuck into "the main event".

Childcare, work and life, coupled with extreme car death have meant that free time and (in many ways more critically) transportation have been in short supply. So my climbing hits have on the whole been brief and local. I've even had the opportunity to re-enact my student climbing days by cycling to local crags.

Anyway on with the numbers and names, first up the fabulously obscure Warland Quarry. I've recently done two new lines here. Both fall into the same "short, gearless slab with unpleasant landing" category.

First up:

Twenty20 (E6 6b)

A slightly squeezed in line just right of the line of aid bolts. Starting at two obvious chipped holds climb directly up the  steep slab. Low in the grade but the landing is a bit of a shocker!! With a team of spotters and a bunch of pads this could  well be a highball??

And  then:

Face of Grace (E7 6c)

Climb the line of old aid bolts on the lower tier. A thin and technical  steep slab solo (you could clip the bolts I suppose but they look  rubbish and I think I might take then out). Only short (~6 metres) but  the landing is a bit shocking. The climbing eases near the top and with a  bunch of pads and spotters it might be a highball??

Here's a rubbish photo to show the lines:



And here's a video of Adam Hughes making the 2nd ascent of Twenty20:

from nik jennings on Vimeo.

He also repeated Face of Grace, but I'd had to head home so didn't get to film the ascent.

Then I was back to Summit Quarry. Andy Tappa had tried Pylon Direct when I did the first ascent of Responsible Parenting and he was keen for a rematch. So me and Sam trudged up there with him and he did this:

from nik jennings on Vimeo.

That was a fair old bit of airtime, but he luckily walked away with a slightly sore ankle, one to come back to...

Whilst there I thought I'd try something. There was space for a new line, it's a bit of a filler-in completists tick but hey-ho...

Lines In The Sand (E6 6c)

Start as for Jaggernath but pretty much straight away head rightwards  and upwards via a technical sequence to join Pylon Direct at the  positive crack sidepull holds. Finish as for Pylon Direct.

And here's a little topo:



Yellow - Jaggernath (E4 6b)

Purple - Lines In The Sand (E6 6c)

Blue - Pylon Direct (E6 6c)

Red - Responsible Parenting (E7 6c)

Anyway consider that a warm-up, long blog post coming up soon, you have been warned...

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

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Exodus
13 May 2013, 10:50 am

 This is long, I am sorry...

The Background

A couple of years ago myself and Andy Crome got embroiled in doing a direct start to Massala Martyr, what was an 8a+ at Kilnsey (possibly pushing 8b now due to hold breakage). We worked out the boulder problem start, which was excellent, and then Andy in typical fashion beat me to the chains and got the first ascent of Smarter Martyr (8b). At the time we had discussed other options in the area, Andy had his ideas for things to do, and I had mine.

My ideas numbered four:

1) I wanted to do Smarter Martyr, sadly I couldn't quite get it and the weather turned, Kilnsey season got away from me. Last year Kilnsey season hardly got up and running, so neither did I.

2) There was a route to the right called Warlord Direct (E6) which finishes up an E2 (Warlord) but which can also be finished at a thread which signals the end of the hard climbing, and lower from this point. I was starting to feel the urge to return to trad after a long boulder/sport focus and this seemed like the ground up option to go for, which I promptly did in a few goes last year.

3) Then above the thread, where Warlord scuttles off right to the safety and amenability of a groove/corner feature, there was a bulging leaning face. It's the continuation of the face that Massala Martyr/Smarter Martyr climbs, only it looks a bit blanker. A very obvious challenge. But, I wanted to do it trad. This would become Exodus (sorry if that's spoiled the surprise for anyone).

4) Finally there is an obvious direct finish to be done to Smarter Martyr, up yet another bulging face. This would straighten out the line completely and in combination with Exodus would leave a pair of high standard, high quality, logical lines right in the middle of Kilnsey. One sport, one trad, nice. This I have yet to do, please give me a chance to try...



Blue - Exodus (E8 6c)

Red - Warlord (aid start to rech thread)(E2 5c)

Dotted Red - Warlord Direct (E6 6c)

Purple - Smarter Martyr (Fr8b)

Dotted Purple - Massala Martyr (finish as for Smarter Martyr) (Fr8a+/b)

Day 1

I've got a very short smash and grab day at Kilnsey with Garry, we get there at 10:20 and need to be in the car heading home at 2:00. Garry isn't sure what he wants to do, I have an idea...

I clipstick up the adjacent sport route (Smarter Martyr, 8b) and then Garry lowers me down and I have a look at the face, first impressions aren't great, it looks very blank for a long way. After a bit of brushing and looking around though I manage to find a poor two finger left hand crimp in the blank section. A long move above this there is a horizontal line of reasonable to good pockets and a long move below this there is a large, slightly slopey right hand sidepull. Down and left of the sidepull is a pretty good flatty and below that is a good jug, and some gear (a threaded rock 4). And finally below that is the thread and jugs that indicate the end of the difficulties of the start (itself an E6 called Warlord Direct). After a quick clean of the holds I try the middle section on a top-rope and it's desperate. I can get to the sidepull off the flatty but it's awkward. Then it looks like a wild slap for the tiny two finger crimp, that's NOT going to happen. A bit of brushing random bits of rock reveals a poor left hand pinch, it's really poor but it might be enough to let me adjust my feet and get established for the throw to the two finger crimp (throw to a two finger half pad crimp, how is that ever going to work??). The pinch feels rubbish but it does let me adjust my feet into a semi-sensible position to set up for the hopeless throw...

 I pull up a bit "let’s imagine I caught the crimp..." I think to myself. I pull on and try the next move, it looked long hanging on the rope, but actually trying it the realisation dawns that it's ludicrous. Swing around a bit and...

Why HELLO what have we here? A side-pull, pretty good, first joint, off to the right and crucially a bit lower than the line of pockets. How very nice to meet you Mr Side-pull.

So brush that up and then try and do the move to catch it, I'M OFF. Oooof, still hard but feels like it might be more possible. But hang on, the left hand felt a bit weird when I came off. Inspect the two finger crimp and lo and behold it's now a bit smaller and a bit less positive whilst at the same time a bit more painful to hold. Humpfff...

Anyway got some sort of a sequence, despite having not done any of the moves. I start to lower down and as I’m passing the awkward move to the side-pull off the flatty I find a lower undercut pocket, a quick dabble and there’s a more flowing sequence in place.

For the rest of the session Garry works the lower section, and ultimately manages to top-rope it in a one-er. I get another couple of goes on the rope and spend most of the time looking for some more holds with no great joy, I continue to play on the moves but make no real headway. At the end of the day I walk away having brushed a few holds, held a couple of positions and failed to make a single move on the crux section…

Game on.

Day 2

I’ve been thinking, a lot, and it’s occurred to me that there is a possibility. You see the tiny two finger crux hold is very hard to catch dynamically. Let’s be honest, it feels completely impossible for me. My feet feel like they’re in the “right” sort of positions for the move, and I think I’ve got my hands as well placed as possible. But the bulging nature of the rock means that my left hand is holding me on, and as soon as I take it off I’m falling away to the right, so the move is always going to be dynamic using this sequence. I need to kill this barn-door effect so I can reach the hold static. But that seems insane, how can a move that feels like a long slap become a static reach? There’s just no way…

…unless...

…would a heel work? The left foot is on a sort of knobble hold, maybe instead of putting my toe on it I could put my heel round it and use that to pull me across to the left and up to the hold.

This is what entirely consumed my thoughts in the time between day 1 and day 2. And come day 2 I was keen to put the theory into practice.

Again clip-stick up the adjacent route, lower down and place the piece of gear above the crux to hold me on the line, lower down and brush the crux holds. Try the heel, oh my days it works. The impossible slap is now a controlled static move (albeit pretty powerful). I slump on the rope, not really sure how to do the next move.

After a rest I pull on from the crux hold and try the side-pull slap, no dice. Hmmm, break out the toothbrush and get hunting… and the wall once again reveals the smallest of treasures. A little diamond of a hold, a tiny right hand nothingth of a hold. Awful, but crucially in the right place to be reachable off the knee scuff, unlike the side-pull. I pull on the two finger left hand hold and low right side-pull, pop in the knee scuff and after a couple of misfires manage to latch the poor right hand, just…

Then I’m off.

Finally I try pulling on to the two finger left hand and the poor right hand, plenty of rope tension and pop to the side-pull. A couple more false starts and then I hit it. Ok there was tension in the rope, but not that much, probably…

Lower down and rest.

Then I decide to get straight onto the sharp end. This was a very conscious decision. The route was far from worked out, or a sure thing. Whilst I had just about done the individual hand moves I hadn’t linked any of the crux moves, and I also hadn’t tried any of the in-between foot movements/adjustments. But if I wanted to do the route as a sure thing then I might as well bolt it and we can have another sport route to work to death*. I wanted to do this trad, and to my mind that meant I wanted to try and embrace the trad-ness as much as I could. Don’t for a moment think I’m trying to claim any sort of ground-upishness. That’s obviously not the case, but I wanted to try and make some sort of notional nod to that style of approach. When I got on the sharp end I still didn’t know if I could climb the route, I didn’t know if I could adjust my feet/body-position between hand moves, I didn’t know if I could do the moves without a bit of rope help. Pretty much the only thing I did know was that I was probably going to fall off.

A lot.

(*this is not a veiled criticism of sport climbing, I think sport climbing’s ace. Rather making the point that if something is done “trad” it is nice to do it in as “trad” a style as is possible)

Anyway first time up, I place the gear climb up to the move to the two finger left hand hold. Pop the heel on, pull, body tension, reach and… reach a bit more and… got it.

Now what? I need to move my left heel to a toe so I can then move my right foot for the next move. But my left heel is pulling like hell; it feels like the only thing that’s keeping me on. I try to gently release the heel. As the tension comes out of my left leg, I can feel more and more weight going on to my left hand. But my left hand is rubbish, I can’t hold it, no way, I’m off.

The gear holds.

The rest of the day continues in a similar vein, but slowly I start to get closer to being able to move my feet. By the end of the day I’ve managed to adjust my feet, get the knee scuff and slapped ineffectively for the rubbish right hand intermediate hold. Progress of sorts.

Day 3

Garry does the first half of the route (itself an E6 - Warlord Direct) - MONSTER!

Clip-stick up the adjacent route, lower and brush. Straight on the sharp end, getting smoother, slicker, and more used to falling. New high-point.

Day 4

Clip-stick up the adjacent route, lower and brush. Straight on the sharp end, getting smoother, slicker, and more used to falling. New high-point.

Day 5

Try the route straight off the ground, feels grim.

Clip-stick up the adjacent route, lower and brush. Straight on the sharp end, getting smoother, slicker, and more used to falling. New high-point. And then a new low point, as the day progresses conditions at the crag grim out big time. Clag descends and I start falling off on the move to the two finger left hand hold, not dropped that for a while, time to go home…

from nik jennings on Vimeo.

Day 6

OK so day 6 is straight after day 5, it's my 6th day on, my left forearm feels weird, it's been raining since yesterday afternoon, I have Sam (16 month old son) in tow, I'm totally gate-crashing another pairs climbing day and when I get to the crag there is misty clag everywhere and there appears to be a river running down the route. If ever there was a day when the stars aligned this wasn't it...

Closer inspection reveals that the river is actually running down the adjacent sport route and it looks as though the line I'm trying is still dry. Although the single bolt lower-off at the top is in the river, luckily you reach across to clip it from dry rock so that should be fine.

The usual, clip-stick up the river trying to keep my feet dry. Then lower down the line of the route brushing up the holds. I also have a quick check of the piece of gear at the very top of the route (it protects the last easy move) just to make sure I'll be bringing up the right rock. Get to the ground and pull the rope.

Have a rest while Rachel and Cal get on their respective routes and then it's on the sharp end. The start goes easily, I've done this so many times now it just flows. Get to the first gear and take a quick rest and shake, then on to the crux sequence:

LH - up to jug in break

RF - big flat hold

RH - flatty edge

LH - undercut pocket

LF - vertical smear

RH - Slopey side-pull

LF - step through to jug

RF - way out right

LH - poor pinch

RF - up and in to sideways smear

LF - heel hook

LH - reach to small two finger edge

LF - switch to toe

RF - in and up to small edge, scuff knee

LF - drop off press out left

RH - up to tiny scallop hold

RF - stand up higher

RH - slap to sidepull

Latch it, I've latched it, I've got the side pull. Now to bring my left foot across to the right of my right foot to a good foothold, where is it? The move is blind, but I know the foothold is there, it's a handhold, it's big, come on, where are you?! Over-gripping and over pulling on the right hand side-pull. To couteract this I'm having to bone the left hand hold as hard as possible. Getting rapidly juiced here. Where is the bloody foothold? Is that it? Am I on it? Don't know can't tell, pulling too hard with my hands, can't get any weight on my feet, stupid, stupid, aaargh. That might be something, go for it, try to move my right foot...

waaarghhhhhhh....

I'm off. Close though.

Another rest while Cal has another go on his route (he's looking good on it). Then, after butting in on Rachel and Cal's day of climbing I decide to max out my selfishness by asking if Rachel minds if I queue jump and have next go at climbing. She's too polite and says yes. People often say that one of the key elements of success is a degree of selfishness, I hope not, it's not very nice.

Anyway this is it, I need to go after this attempt whatever happens, it's still raining, I don't know when I'll be able to get back here, it will probably be wet anyway, do or die (how dramatic...). Just before I set off I have a brief word with myself "I'm going to get the left hand hold, and I'm going to crush it, full power, it doesn't matter how it feels or how I feel, conditions are irrelevant I'm giving it everything, I'm not falling off that hold, gravity is going to have to rip me off if it wants to beat me". It sounds cheesey, but it's what I thought, would it be enough?

Through the start, easy, brief rest at the jug, not tired, left hand up to the break jug and some sneaky micro beta. I'd noticed on my last attempt that as I moved my left hand from out of the break jug that there was the faintest hint of moisture on my tips, something and nothing but could it make the difference on the tiny left hand hold? Maybe the back of the jug was slightly damp? So I'm not greedy, just get the edge of the jug, it's still good so no problem. Right hand up to flatty, adjust body position and the left hand out of jug and into undercut pocket. A glance at my tips as they move through the air, they still look freshly chalked, no excuses now. Right hand to side pull, sort feet, left hand to crap pinch. Right foot up, left heel on, left hand up to two finger hold. I'm crushing this, bear down, hard, sort feet, knee scuff, bear down harder, right hand up to tiny scallop hold, feels almost static, adjust body position, set up, pause, pull more on the left and slap with the right, hit the side-pull, max power on the left, over-grip like a loon on the right, hold it, hold it, step left foot through, find hold, yes, right foot out, look up at good left hand hold. It's just there, I can reach it, but...

...but I can't move, what's going on? No weight on my feet, pulling too hard with my arms, how many times have I told people not to do this, stupid, stupid, no weight on feet which means the static reach to the good left hold isn't happening, I've got to slap, this is crazy, IT'S EASY WHAT AM I DOING! Right arm getting powered out, go, now, throw...

I think I'm off for an instant and then my left hits the hold, it sticks, clip the gear. Breathe, where am I? Well my left is feeling tired, my right doesn't have a hold to hold on to, that gear suddenly looks very directional and not something I want to fall off onto. If it rips will I hit the ground? Maybe, breathe, think. There's a good right hand to the left of my left hand, chalk right, reach across, chalk left, feet getting very close to the river of water, bit annoying. Back onto left hand, right move up, this is easy, or it was when I wasn't looking at a potential ground fall. Feet up, right hand up, dig in left foot, feels slippery, move left hand up, don't slip don't slip don't slip, got it, right foot up, right hand up, left foot up, left hand up, massive jug, breathe, relax, gear, chill shake, two moves, top. WHOOP.

from nik jennings on Vimeo.



Source: Nik Jennings Blog

[comPiler]

What's The Point?
17 May 2013, 11:18 pm

Climbing, in common with most pastimes (unles your hobby is curing cancer or eradicating poverty), is largely pointless. And yesterday I explored the very nadir of that pointlessness by spending some time linking-up the start of one existing route (Pylon Direct - E6 6c) into the finish of another existing route (Responsible Parenting - E7 6c) in a tedious effort to get a new tick and clog up UKC database storage space with nonsense. And now here's your opportunity to waste some time watching a video of this farce...

from nik jennings on Vimeo.

Now go and do something useful...



Source: Nik Jennings Blog

[comPiler]

Summit Solo
22 May 2013, 11:28 am

Having been thwarted in my previous attempts to video some of the climbs at Summit Quarry due to a tripod with a very poor sence of balance I ventured up there again on Monday to do battle with dampness and humidity. I was hoping to do another couple of completely pointless link-ups, but conditions didn't inspire me, so instead I solo'ed a couple of the lines there that I had previously only got the sountrack of along with a nice view of the sky...

from nik jennings on Vimeo.

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

[comPiler]

Summer is here
23 May 2013, 7:02 am

Last night I managed to get my first post-childrens-bedtime evening session outside. A sure sign that the days are getting long and Summer is here...

Just to be boring, and as it is very much local, I headed back to Summit Quarry (again...) and did another new silly little filler in line which has quite pleasant technical climbing, it goes at about E5 6c and is called Sam I Am because the possibility of the line occured to mewhile I was bathing my son (Sam) just before I got out.

Anyway the crux is very much at slightly highball bouldering height, but probably worth taking up a rope and some friends for the high break. I climbed the line ground up, with a couple of jump offs at the crux before commiting to it.

There are still a couple more link-ups to go on this wall, a very tight eliminate line, and a boulder problem traverse and then it will be pretty much climbed out.

from nik jennings on Vimeo.

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

[Fiend]

I think for the topo, you should print out a photo of the wall, and give Sam loads of coloured crayons and tell him to do his worst

[comPiler]

Repetition and Relocation
4 June 2013, 11:44 am

Repetition

Jordan Buys has repeated Exodus in great style, bravo Jordan. He has climbed the route ground-up (with several falls) which is a fine effort. Slightly guttingly he seems to have found the climbing significantly easier than I did. Initially he suggested that it felt like Fr7c (I thought getting on for 8a+), but I think I've managed to talk him up to 7c+. Honestly I still think that's a bit harsh, but I guess a concensus will emerge (assuming anyone else tries it...). So it seems appropriate to bump the grade down a notch to E7 rather than E8. Hey-ho... On the upside he confirmed that the line is quality climbing and should be on peoples hit-list.

What do I think about this downgrade, well... Obviously on one hand I'm a bit gutted that Jordan didn't find it uber-hard, but then as he's just crushed 9a that was never really going to happen was it? However I gave an honest attept at grading the route, and Jordan has given his honest opinion of the dificulty of the line. Those assesments are different, which is to be expected we are after all diffrent people. So who's right? Well neither of us, or maybe both of us. I'll concede the fact that I don't have much experience of limestone trad (certainly less than Jordan) or indeed much experience of physically hard but pretty safe trad (having more of a bold and stupid background) which could/would affect my ability to accurately grade the climb. On the flipside of that this route was wayyyyy below Jordans current limit, so maybe his perspective is a little out? On balance I'd accept Jordans suggested grade of E7 rather than E8, but I think he's a bit low with his suggested sport grade of 7c/c+. Anyway with a few more repeats there could be some concensus reached, I think it's excellent and Jordan seemed to rate it so get to it...

Final little thing about grading (sorry I know this is boring), I picked the grade that seemed accurate to me, and I will continue to do so with future new routes. In the fullness of time some of these will turn out to be right, and some will change. That's the nature of grading first ascents, and I'm happy for grade changes to be suggested and discussed quite openly. I would always try to justify my initial grading and my reasoning, this isn't an attempt to prove other opinions wrong just an explanation of my standpoint. All grading is a matter of opinion to an extent, and we all have different experiences of the same climb. However I think, and this relates to a recent-ish blog post from Tom Randall, that there are a number of historical routes that have developed some type of grade inertia which is throwing spanners in the UK grading system works. We shouldn't as individuals be afraid to offer up an honest opinion of the difficulty or grade of a route, and we equally shouldn't as a community shy away from adjusting route grades (even some of those established classics) to maintain a sensible system.

Anyway enough of this. I'm moving to the Isle of Man in the Summer and last week I had a trip over there for a few days to look at a house, sort some stuff out and get back to my usual style of climbing. Bold and stupid here we come...

Relocation

Bold and stupid on grit is fun, because it's generally so very solid. You might be run out but the rock is the rock, and it stays that way. If you can do the climbing (and keep your head) you can do the climb. Rock on the Isle of Man is of a more "adventurous" nature, being at times solid whilst also having a less dependable streak.

The Chasms is the main venue on the island, however at this time of year it is subject to a bird ban. So I found myself spending a couple of days at a lesser crag called Aldrick where I got the second ascent of three of Doug's recent new routes, and managed to put up four new lines.

 



1 - May The Fourth Be With You E4 5c

One of Doug's. A steep bouldery start then some steady slab/face climbing on generally good if slightly disposable holds. Small friends and a few wires provide protection.On-sighted.

2 - Sole Therapy E4 6a

 Another of Doug's. Technical steep slab start leads to a peg and the crux move, the top half is a very similar proposition to May The Fourth. On-sighted.



3 - Short and Sharp E2 5c

Doug's. A fingery boulder problem start then some good friends and an easier upper wall. On-sighted.

4 - Briefly Bulging VS 4b

The first of my new lines (don't worry they get a bit more exciting than this...). A boulder problem start then an easier upper wall avoiding the loose looking blocks. Climbed on-sight.



1 - Three Times A Lady VS 4b

Existing route, didn't climb it.

2 - Marquis De Mouzilly E6 6a

Climb directly up the wall, starting one metre right of the crack.  Friable rock leads to a decent wire at about 5 metres, then another  couple of metres leads to an overlap and some less inspiring gear. Then  cross the overlap and continue boldly up the wall on delicate holds. I ab'ed the line of this to clean it, then solo'ed it on my first attempt. It's pretty scary rock which requires a delicate touch.



3 -Veneer HVS 5a

Existing route, didn't climb it (this is the same #3 as in the previous photo)

4 - Muttonchops Martin E7 6b

Up the middle of the greenery covered face, start a couple of metres  left of the crack behind a tall tooth boulder. Climb directly up the  face. No desperate moves, but consistent, sustained and very bold.  Slightly questionable rock, take care. Again I ab'ed the line of this to clean it, then solo'ed it on my first  attempt. It's also pretty scary rock which requires a delicate touch.

And Finally...



1 - Hemlock E8 6b

Climb the centre of the face of Eiger Buttress. Bold and serious  climbing up a steepening slab of friable rock with no gear good enough  to take body weight. Eeek! Low in the grade? This was terrifying! I tried, like an idiot, to on-sight the F.A. of this on my first day out. I got about halfway up, felt about E6 6a, removing loose rock aplenty with both hands and feet as I went! I got to a reasonable rest position and realised that the slab steepened up above and I had no gear worth hanging a coat on. The option was press on and get super-commited on steepening ground of poor rock, or call for a rope. Not that difficult a choice really. After a rope was dropped and I clipped in I continued up the face, I didn't fall off or weight the rope at any point. So should I have stayed on the sharp end? Not a chance, it was scary enough on a top-rope thank-you very much. I walked away thinking it was unjustifiable as a climb...

On the next day out I wanted to try a steep face round the corner but ti rapidly became apparent that the cleaning job would take me the rest of the day so I binned it off and instead dropped a rope down the line of Hemlock for a cheeky shunt. Again I didn't fall off and this time I didn't manage to remove as many holds. twice up it, no falls? Hmmm, I went off and had a ponder for an hour or so then popped back and solo'ed it...

...properly getting the fear. I didn't do much more climbing after this.

A nice couple of days on the more adventurous side of Manx climbing, I've scoped out plenty of things to check out and am actually SYKED for the move.

Source: Nik Jennings Blog

[Fiend]

Good stuff. Gonna get Jordan on Hemlock?