[fried]

Monday - BM session - Good friction for some reason, probably weather connies. 4 sets.
Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - Another wet bank holiday but had a long indoor session,, felt really good and knocked off a lot off 6A problems really quickly, lots of progress on varying 6B/C stuff and came one move off a ridiculously over-graded 7A wall. I climb like an absolute god.

Thursday - nothing
Friday - short BM session - 3 sets.
Saturday - I take my new found godlike climbing skills out to the Bois rond where I am beaten off problem after problem, including problems I'd already done years ago. Get so depressed I can just about climb a couple of orange problems. Having real trouble with the crimps in this part of the forest. God I climb like absolute shit. When will I ever learn that indoor improvements mean shit all outside.

Decide to do some back to basics, easy complete circuits next time I'm out.

Weight 74.0kg

[shark]

11.7-8

M.
T. Foundry with Poppy and Ben. An hour on the Wave.
W. 
T.  High Tor on a whim with Stef. Hot. Original Route, Debachery and Darius. Also had a play on a gap that I've had a look at a few times over the last 20+ years and managed the moves for the first time. 
F.
S. Malham. Windy and surprisingly cold. No progress. Again.
S.
 
Been a bit sniffly all week. Low psyche. Going to take time out from the Oak till the autumn.

[Luke Owens]

STG - F7b+, Font 7A+
MTG - F7c and Font 7B
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+

Monday - Feet on Fingerboarding moving hangs
4 x (1:30 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 7 minutes)
Felt a lot easier this time!

Tuesday - Trevor Rocks - Took the Girlfriend out climbing. Lead F4, F4+, 2 x F6a+ and a 3 star F6c "Traction Trauma" that I've been meaning to do for awhile. Good chilled session with awesome weather!

Wednesday - Rest

Thursday - Dinbren (I love this crag too much!)
Did the F6b warm up that I used to get pumped on and It barely got me warmed up at all, not even slightly pumped! Great to see progress since last year on easy stuff.

Got back on Walking With Barrance (F7b) put the clips in and started the redpoints the first 3 were in the sun:

1RP - Fell off the technical crux about 9 moves in.
2RP - Fell off the big flake before the final throw as I couldn't get the last draw clipped - School boy error, needed a longer draw in it.
3RP - Fell off the technical crux about 9 moves in again.
4RP - Flew up it made and the final throw, latched it but pumped out bringing my feet up as my fingers uncurled/arm melted.
5RP - Did the same as my 4th RP.

Had an awesome session trying the route with two mates. Got the psyche flowing!

Great to feel so close to it even on the last go of the session. It'll go for sure. Getting back on it this week. Have my sights on some F7b+'s. Psyched!

Friday - Rest

Saturday - Drove down to the Cromlech Boulders as we had the little one with us. Couldn't get parked...Annoying. Carried on going and ended up on the Orme.

Had a few hours in the Cave. Fell off the last move on The Pillar Start (7A) and fell off the 6B+ finish of Right Wall Traverse (7A)

Such a different style of climbing than i'm used to. Hard on the shoulders!

Jealous of everyone down on LPT!

Did a feet on fingerboard session when I got home, cut the rest time by a minute:

4 x (1:30 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes)

Sunday - Rest

[Sasquatch]

Super odd week.  Mostly good, some bad, some I'm not sure about. 
Short version:
M - Climbed endurance
T - Run
W - FB and run
Th - Climb
F - Run and party
S - Climb (and snow in May - WTF  )
Sun - Run and party

I started off the week taking it a bit easy on a mildly pulled hammy, hoping to get climbing a couple of times and maybe a few runs.  Also made the committment to watch my diet and try to drop about 3-5kgs.  The weather was a bit wacky all week, so I made the best of it.  On Monday I headed in to the gym to get a nice workout in.  I was a bit bored with most of the setting, but they had put up a couple of nice longer traverses which are nice for some mindless volume.  I set my watch and did laps of a nice 25 move problem on a 45degree wall every 5 minutes for an hour.  By the end I was completely wiped out, but felt like I had gotten a good session in.  The next day was pretty low key, but happened to be sunny so I headed out for a run with my wife. 

On Wednesday, I was being solo dad in the evening so i decided to have a play on the finger board to see how the A2 felt.  In the end had a good session  , and I think it really helped the finger take the next step in recovery.  Thursday afternoon I got into the gym and roped up with an old friend I hadn't climbed with in nearly a year.  We talked alot and goofed off, and I had the best roped session I've had in a long long time (matched my best ever OS-7c+  ).  I've been doing a fair bit of PE and endurance work over the last month and it was nice to see some of it pay off....

Friday was another mellow day with crap weather.  Ended up doing a short run at lunch time before heading out for a evening of art, whiskey, and friends.  Woke up Saturday morning to a blizzard, which killed the plan of heading out mtn biking for the day.  Instead we headed into the gym and it was crowded and stressful-not fun at all.  I think everyone headed inside due to the snow.

If saturday was a let down, sunday was the exact opposite.  A brilliant sunny day with plans for a big cinco de mayo party that evening.  Got out for an hour run in the afternoon sun, then broke all of my diet plans for a second time, but it was well worth it.  Kentucky Bourbon Ale  , carnitas, fish tacos, and margaritas on the porch with a nice fire going.  Ended up throwing a great party with nearly 40 people.....  Not a bad week.

The bad news was when I check the snow report at the best local boudlering spot, they had gotten another 18 inches on top of what was already a nearly record season.  Current snow depth at 7 feet  .  It'll be a bit before it melts out....

[csl]

April Goals
At least 20 sessions climbing 17/20 - not done
Rehab finger - feeling like its getting better, smaller holds not causing any pain.
7b indoors - done
Get outside twice 2/2
Run 17.50 Parkrun - not done

Mon -
Tue - Kilnsey - late session. Repeated directissema. Tried smooth torquer, couldn't do the start in an easy way because i couldn't use a left hand crimp. Managed the start but powered out going to the jugs. The top part was mega easy so would just need to do the start. Then tried open road but didn't rest much so was still quite pumped and fell off! But i guess more endurance training! Managed Open Road on a toppers at the end but was feeling pretty wasted. Not as bad as expected for a first day back on limestone since February and feeling quite fit despite lacking the ability to climb well on rock.
Wed - Almscliff - repeated Wall of Horrors start. Climbed Black Wall Eliminate, which i'd tried but fell off a year ago. Then managed to do the virgin traverse, had looked at this once a few years ago but it went about 4th go this time. About french 7a+?
Thu -
Fri - Henry Price - Traversing back and forth. Felt good.
Sat -
Sun -

Feel like all the endurance training has worked, can recover well on holds and virgin traverse showed power endurance is ok too. So psyched for Ceuse now! Hoping that once i get used to rock again i'll be going well.

Off on Wednesday for a month, hoping to sail the 7c's!

[Muenchener]

STG: Redpoint 7a (most likely indoors). Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T:
W: Yoga / mobility / shoulder / core 40 minutes
T: Wall, Thalkirchen: short session after work. Did some links on latest 7a circuit proj, then feet-on campusing. Tried three blocks of 4 x 1 minute on, 1 minute off with 10 minutes rest between blocks. Only made it to ca 40 seconds on the last sets of the last 2 blocks. STG: finish all sets
F: Alpine approach training: 4 x 40 flights stair climbing with rucksack full of water bottles. Very hard, but the first time I've completed four rounds since I had bronchitis in the winter. Gradually getting aerobically fitter
... no amount of aerobic fitness will get me up a 7a
... but it will get me to the start of alpine routes without being fscked before I even leave the ground. Which is the object of the, erm, exercise.
... and, I hope, the mental skill of keeping going when it feels like there's nothing left might be transferable to some degree.
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Struggled frantically on what I hoped would be warm up problems. Tried my circuit project: equalled but did not improve on my previous high point  (34/40). Then did some boulder sets (3x up & down without stepping off) as per James Pearson's training vid.

Feel like all the endurance training has worked

I wish I could say the same. *Definitely* time to for me to shift focus away from endurance training for a while. I not only feel like I'm losing strength; I've firmly hit the wall of diminishing or even negative returns on the endurance too.

[nai]

swam Tuesday plus half a core workout, another half core Wednesday.

Thursday & Friday was spent working on the garage wall, one board now mounted and the other all set to go, just need a couple of hours spare (hopefully, things haven't generally gone to plan).

Good day's trad on Saturday with Slackers & 3T.  Slow, nervy start backing off easy solos but improved markedly once I'd been on the sharp end a few times.  Keen for more.

Bit of tweaking from the elbow to start with but it settled down and hasn't been problematic since.

[krymson]

Last Monday - Lead: Climbed damn well at the wall including no hesitation, quick decision making and dynamic moves on lead, even when pumped! Feet on fingerboarding and falling practice has paid off

Breathing deep helped with calming down and focus, and reading Megos' onsighting article helped a great deal with onsighting tactics

Tuesday - lock off training/core - One arm lock off achieved!
Wednesday - fingerboard and feet on fingerboarding
Thursday, Friday - Bouldering.
Monday - Lead: fit as hell- climbed better than ever on redpoint, but mediocre onsight compared to last week because of nerves. maybe i shouldnt have skipped yoga this week!

Now that my fitness, clipping, resting, and tactics are fairly solid, i find that my mood and state of mind makes a tremendous difference on lead. No wonder Sharma smokes so much! 

[kelvin]

First VS lead this week - Bomb Bay at Pembroke. Breezed it to be honest, so quite happy.

Mon - Warmup. TR F5 x2, 3 x3, 4 x3, 6b+, then seconded 6b on the comp wall, spun hold at second clip and hit the ground just. Ouch. Led 6a to 5th clip but head was gone after groundfall.
Tue - Sore knee and and ankle.
Wed -Warmup boulder. Fingery V3 - made the move! Couldn't repeat it but then found a sequence past it. Tried start of V5 hahaha. PE fingers 8 sets of 10 x 7/3 and need harder holds now, so used middle campus rung for last set.
Thu - 52 Dynamic, drove to Pembroke.
Fri- St Govan's Head. Led VDiff, VS 4c. Seconded E1 5B (stuggled on the start) and E2 5c but pumped stupid.
Sat - Bosherton Head. Sunny Corner HVS 5a but was wiped out by a wave three times on belay. The whole thing was an epic, got lost on serious ground but def Type 2 fun. The traverse is fantastic.
Sun - Carreg y Barcud Main Face. Seconded E1 5a, led some Vdiff, just couldn't spot gear. Belayed Dale on some english 6a thing.

Pembroke - didn't know places like that existed. Amazing. Brain is fried. Climbing got worse as I got ever more tired. Happy with the VS as it was steep and at one point I was 4m above gear and comfortable. Everything seemed really strong. Need to be lighter and fitter. All the trad wads were there, Caff, Findley etc and I don't doubt everyone in the pub on Sunday was a climber. Massive learning curve for me.

Groundfall - that was a surprise, the rope stretch got me and not the belaying but it left the knee a swollen mess for a while.

Happy to get the move on the V£ but need to repeat it even if I've worked a way past it. Made progress with the fingers too after just a couple of weeks. It will all help.

[Dolly]

Worked loads last week. Lots of hours and stress


M Slow run but I did it without Achilles hurting. Wore normal running shoes instead of the "barefoot" ones and compression socks.
T Brief but intense sess in the shed
W Longer run than Monday
T The Wave @ lunchtime. Success on one of the problems that had been bugging me. The new set is ace. Climbed as hard and fast as I could until I was knackered.
F Biiiiiig work day.
S Tennis and a bit of biking
S Gym and a bit of biking


Pleased that my Achilles seems to be OK so far. Didn't have time to go to Hallamshire physio, hopefully will this week.

[cheque]

Big week kelvin!

STG- regain ability to succesfully climb routes.

M- Rest.
T- Core and skipping.
W- Notts Wall routes. Five routes, five leader falls (mostly on the hardest one), didn't say 'take' once. Check me out.
T- Core.
F- Rest.
S- Malham. Man, I'd forgotten just how amazing Malham is. Or how intimidated the climbing there makes me feel!  Consenting Adults felt very hard and unfamiliar on a top-rope, as did Rose Coronary, which has seemingly become a long term project for me. Three top-ropes of that and I felt quite good on it by the last go- new beta that makes the crux much easier and the realisation that I'm both far stronger than I was when I was trying it last year and that I am quite a competent climber after all began to kick in. Sadly it was also at this point that I became too burnt-out to move.
S- Chee Dale. First visit! Warmed up at Max Wall then did to 6b+s on Two Tier: one first redpoint, the other ground up after falling off the first hard move three times*! Neither felt tough at all really and I'll hopefully be back to onsighting at this level and above very soon.

It's coming back together now- feeling comfortable on a rope again and doing some hard climbing is reawakening the relevant bits of my brain! Wrist and fingers feeling good too.

*I climbed all week in the Scarpa Magos I got free ages ago. They fit like a glove but have what feels like a 5mm thick piece of plastic under the toes- I have no idea how anyone climbs hard in these things as I keep unexpectedly pinging off in them as they offer no feedback whatsoever! Back to my too-big whites for lime from now on.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals.... See below.

M-S: 6 great big bags of fuck all and a couple of hrs at Back Bowden doing 6's.

After the psyche of last weeks session on Arch Enemies I felt the elbow twinge again after having settled down over the past month or two.

Over the rest of the week it just got worse and I now also have a new finger issue that I'm sure is related. Had a session at Back Bowden and the elbow wasn't too bad when climbing but I sure paid for it the next day! 

So the upshot of this is no climbing for at least the next two or three weeks, maybe more! I'm gonna put my works membership on hold and spend the money on Physio, oh and go running.

Might bow out of Power Club until it's a bit better... Proper pissed off!

Arse!

[Luke Owens]

Goals.... See below.

M-S: 6 great big bags of fuck all and a couple of hrs at Back Bowden doing 6's.

After the psyche of last weeks session on Arch Enemies I felt the elbow twinge again after having settled down over the past month or two.

Over the rest of the week it just got worse and I now also have a new finger issue that I'm sure is related. Had a session at Back Bowden and the elbow wasn't too bad when climbing but I sure paid for it the next day! 

So the upshot of this is no climbing for at least the next two or three weeks, maybe more! I'm gonna put my works membership on hold and spend the money on Physio, oh and go running.

Might bow out of Power Club until it's a bit better... Proper pissed off!

Arse!

Sorry to hear that buddy! Hope the elbow and finger are better soon!

You might benefit from the break, atleast you'll come back massively psyched!

[kelvin]

So the upshot of this is no climbing for at least the next two or three weeks, maybe more! I'm gonna put my works membership on hold and spend the money on Physio, oh and go running.

Physio and running isn't too bad a combination. Stick with it - you'll come back way stronger and maybe lighter too.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Cheers guys, kinda puts a spanner in the works with getting an 8a ticked this year - might give some leverage to me convincing the missus that a month in Spain at the end of the year wouldn't be that bad an idea tho

:D

[webbo]

Goal stop coughing,
Mon. Bike 2hrs
Tue. Board 17 problems x 3
Wed. Bike out with the old guys 70 miles very steady with a lunch stop.
Thu. Board  did project from last week and did similar left version, good session. Painted outside of Annex i.e. Bouldering shed.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat Pock pedal 100 miles and 6,400 ft of climbing just under 6hrs riding time. Probably about 6.20 total. Really struggled on the hills also got stomach cramp when I coughed while eating on the bike.
Sun. Nothing.
Cough seemed to disappear for a few days before coming back.   

[Eddies]

Hi Power Club Members,
Ive decided to join up and log my weekly goings on over the course of this summer.
 
I have been training hard indoors all winter following my own periodised training plan that I have been tweaking over the past two years. I feel its worked well and kept me very busy and motivated throughout winter, but now the sun has come out I emerge from my urban cave strong and keen but a little bit unsure as to what I should be doing!

I decided to stop all training in favour of simply getting out on the rock a couple of evenings a week. After all that's what Ive been training for all winter... Right!? So that's what I did, I visited my local crags and did circuits for a couple of weeks until the temps warmed up and I hit the lime, subsidised by the Chris Webb Parsons hangboard routine that took my fancy.

Ive now decided to bring a bit of training back in and so will be logging it on here as a way of keeping my psyche up...
Ive logged all of April but ill follow the rules and just post 29th April - 5th May's log:

Monday: REST
Tuesday: Rubicon Bouldering – Fell from last move on the Kudos traverse AGAIN! (Bad Connies)
Wednesday: REST
Thursday: Rubicon / Crag-X Bouldering – Did Jericho rd (retro) 3rd go, back into working The Pinch, went well.
Friday: REST
Saturday: Beeston Tor Routes – The Beest E3 6a and Evensong E1 5a.
Sunday: REST

[Luke Owens]

Hi Power Club Members,
Ive decided to join up and log my weekly goings on over the course of this summer.
 
I have been training hard indoors all winter following my own periodised training plan that I have been tweaking over the past two years. I feel its worked well and kept me very busy and motivated throughout winter, but now the sun has come out I emerge from my urban cave strong and keen but a little bit unsure as to what I should be doing!

I decided to stop all training in favour of simply getting out on the rock a couple of evenings a week. After all that's what Ive been training for all winter... Right!? So that's what I did, I visited my local crags and did circuits for a couple of weeks until the temps warmed up and I hit the lime, subsidised by the Chris Webb Parsons hangboard routine that took my fancy.

Ive now decided to bring a bit of training back in and so will be logging it on here as a way of keeping my psyche up...
Ive logged all of April but ill follow the rules and just post 29th April - 5th May's log:

Monday: REST
Tuesday: Rubicon Bouldering – Fell from last move on the Kudos traverse AGAIN! (Bad Connies)
Wednesday: REST
Thursday: Rubicon / Crag-X Bouldering – Did Jericho rd (retro) 3rd go, back into working The Pinch, went well.
Friday: REST
Saturday: Beeston Tor Routes – The Beest E3 6a and Evensong E1 5a.
Sunday: REST

Welcome to the Club!