[account_inactive]

Its giving me a little spike of interest too... I should get my ass out and explore more of these NW spots..

Beyond Longridge, Thorn and Brownstones all of these areas should be under the title 'Of local interest only'. The other decent areas in Lancashire are actually nearer to (and probably classed as) the South Lakes.

[r-man]

Things have moved on a bit since you were a Brownstones devotee Dylan. Blackstone and nearby outcrops have been quite well developed; the Wiltons have better harder stuff than Brownstones; and there are numerous minor crags like Wolfhole, Stronstrey, Crag Stones and so on that provide a good day out for locals.

Lancs is never going to be Stanage or Caley, but for the type of person who enjoys seeking out individual quality problems, there is a lot to do. As I said previously, there are youtube videos of most of my recommendations, so anyone interested can check them out before deciding if they are worth heading to.

[account_inactive]

Like I said.....of only interest to locals. I mentioned 3 places and you only heard me say Brownstones and then agreed with me when I said 'of only interest to locals'?. Christ if TomTom drove past Yorkshire and the Peak to get to those areas he might want to give up climbing. I admire your ability to garden climbs out of green bin bags but don't expect people to not baulk when they find out you're selling them magic beans.

[r-man]

I think Thorn Crag, Longridge and Silverdale lime are locals crags too. But I like locals crags.

Magic Beans - I'll use that name for the next one!

[tomtom]

Thorn is mint.. Superb crag. It's an hour drive for me (when in Manc) and worth the 30-40 min walk in too.. it's not a quick hit near the car place but fantastic for a day out...

Different crags for different days.. I've yet to explore the south lakes (n.lancs) lime but hoping to have a forage in the summer..

Anyways, I think its great that R man and others are exploring and putting together the topo's and guides - its much appreciated by me for one!

[Probes]

Go on Robin..  to the doubters

Talking of Wilton do you have/is there a vid of the start of soot monkey anywhere, a friend was on a 'rope'  the other night having a go and was struggling to get a decent sequence for the bottom, which apparently is the crux anyhow.

[andy_e]

I nearly did Soot Monkey Start way back when, I seem to remember it involved trying to build your feet up off an undercut to a massive reach for a slopey ramp line (which could be nonsense of course!)

[r-man]

Talking of Wilton do you have/is there a vid of the start of soot monkey anywhere, a friend was on a 'rope'  the other night having a go and was struggling to get a decent sequence for the bottom, which apparently is the crux anyhow.

Yes, I've got some footage on my computer somewhere, I'll dig it out. It's a classic baffler. I've done a right hand version too, which is a little harder.

[r-man]

Here it is, at 2.23. The rest of the problems are all Wilton 1 and 6C-7B. Look away now if you don't like quarries, these are mostly the less attractive lines, though there are some good moves. Knee Butt (3.04) is the best of this bunch.

[gardinrm]

Still haven't gone to the Wiltons, really need to head out there. Been a bit obsessed with these hard problems at Brownstones. Finding Groundhog impossible. I don't think i'm doing anything wrong, no special beta etc, but am nowhere near climbing it. Get in position and feel stuck, can't possibly take my LH off even remotely statically, and the hold seems miles away. Seems to me like i'd have to be a lot stronger to get it done. Hardest V6 ever. Feel a lot closer to Big Muff which is supposed to be V7. Dunno. Anyway, time to take your advise guys and check out some other places. Mirth of Ducks is on the list, as well as Brian Jacques.

[GCW]

Rivers of Blood sitter and Jump Arête both need second ascents......

[gardinrm]

These are at Cadshaw aren't they? Is there a topo out there for there too? Many thanks to Robin for the Wilton Topo, will be put into use once i abuse the work printer.

[r-man]

These are at Cadshaw aren't they? Is there a topo out there for there too?

Not for the harder stuff, but there are videos of me or GCW on them. Red Wall or the Riverblocks are the only two areas of harder stuff currently developed, find those and you'll spot the problems easily. Red Wall is first thing on the left. For the Riverblocks, you carry on past the quarries, drop down to a very muddy track by the river and continue heading upstream, past a small waterfall, until you see them on the left.

Feel a lot closer to Big Muff which is supposed to be V7.

Yeah, I reckon Big Muff is easier than Groundhog. Maybe it should be V6? Maybe Groundhog should be V7?

[GCW]

When you do Groundhog it feels soft font 7a, BigMuff always feels harder to me!

[GCW]

Cadshaw Red Wall:



Brian Jacques 7a:  Sit start on 1 and 2, use arete 3 and holds 4, 5, 8 and 10 to get to finishing jug 11.

Jump Arete 7a+:  Sit start on 1 and 2.  Right hand to 4 then dyno to 7, finish up 6, 9, 10 to 11.

Rivers of Blood 7b+:  Sit start on 1 and 2 (see a theme?).  Use 4 to get right hand on 6 and left hand on 5.  Finish up 8/9, 10 then to 11.  No hands/ feet on either arete, and no sneaky toe hooks.  Reachy.  The stand up is 7a starting from 5 and 6 (if you can reach).

It's a shame to do a numbered topo really, they climb very independently.

[gardinrm]

Again, thanks for the knowledge guys. I went back to Brownstones last night to get rid of some skin and the bad attitude that hade been brewing all day at work. Followed my brothers advice and just climbed a bunch of stuff that was a bit easier. Felt so nice. I also climbed that Rusty Wall thing. Nice problem, really good. Though i'm not sure my top out was very classy. Was pretty keen to keep direct but holds ran out in the crack so had to bone down on some pretty small crimps and dyno for the top, which was exciting with no spotter, a 4 year old mat on a slope and no idea what the top was like. Hooray for stupidity!

[namnok]

went to brownstones today this morning for an hour, first visit in 2 years or so.

Tried direkt start and couldnt get beyond the pinch. Ive cleaned moss off a foothold to the right i remember using. I remember once i get the pinch 8 i semi mantle my left hand on the shelf to hoist my left foot up to a small fh up high and left. This might help in getting a better position to use 13.

Also did another alternate start to pigswill. Starting in the break right of 4, into 6 then upto 14. If name is to be used, lets call it Spitroast

Is it just me or has crimp 21 starting to feel rough like its been over brushed or chipped at?

[r-man]

It's a shame to do a numbered topo really, they climb very independently.

Agreed. They are lines, not eliminates. Planning to get down there sometimes soon and give your Red Wall stuff a go.

I also climbed that Rusty Wall thing. Nice problem, really good. Though i'm not sure my top out was very classy. Was pretty keen to keep direct but holds ran out in the crack so had to bone down on some pretty small crimps and dyno for the top, which was exciting with no spotter, a 4 year old mat on a slope and no idea what the top was like. Hooray for stupidity!

Top out on that one is always a little goey. Lucky you found something to dyno to - seen other people try that and come peeling off! Good effort.

Also did another alternate start to pigswill. Starting in the break right of 4, into 6 then upto 14. If name is to be used, lets call it Spitroast

Nice. Add to the wiki?

Haven't noticed anything about the Pigswill crimp - but I don't climb there often these days.