UKBouldering.com

[Yorkshire] [Woodhouse Scar] [Jack's Roof] [8a+] (Read 2290 times)

Lee Mac

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 15
  • Karma: +0/-0
New Problem at Woodhouse Scar

Jack’s Roof - 8a+

Start on a small sharp pocket in the roof and a flake/ramp in the crack at the back of the roof under Jack’s Aręte .  Climb straight out through the roof and finish up Jack’s Aręte. Big moves on good holds requiring clever use of the feet
« Last Edit: April 30, 2013, 08:07:06 pm by shark, Reason: title protocol »

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1529
  • Karma: +91/-7
Nice effort!  :strongbench: Had a tiny quick play on the short underneat start today (starting on those ripples and the pocket under the roof). Can get out with my right hand to the arete, but how do you get your left hand out to the flake? Any beta?

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1529
  • Karma: +91/-7
Same for mango...

Lee Mac

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 15
  • Karma: +0/-0
Its hard to say, where is your left hand?

To get to the flake, with my right hand on the arete and left hand in the roof pocket, I have to heel hook on the front face of the block with my right foot, put my left toe into the roof crack, right foot moves to press off the front face then go to the flake. I have some photos to put on that may help.

Glad someone is giving it ago, let me know how you get on.

Cheers

Lee


dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1529
  • Karma: +91/-7
Think I get what you are saying - pictures are always useful though

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1529
  • Karma: +91/-7
Had a play on this from the back today. Getting nowhere, but its some beefy moves individually! Effort on the link up!

Lee Mac

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 15
  • Karma: +0/-0
Glad someone is giving it ago, it took me a long time to work the moves and then to get fit enough to do it.

Cheers

Lee

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal