Its been a while but my recollection was that the hard move was moving left by the bolt on undercuts and smears. But now when you've done that move there seems to be worse holds than I remember ie smallish sidepulls which are hard to recover on followed by a gnarly reach through the overlap using a tiny crimp which felt like 6a.
No wonder it felt so exciting without the bolt...!
Quote from: shark on May 02, 2013, 09:29:53 pmIts been a while but my recollection was that the hard move was moving left by the bolt on undercuts and smears. But now when you've done that move there seems to be worse holds than I remember ie smallish sidepulls which are hard to recover on followed by a gnarly reach through the overlap using a tiny crimp which felt like 6a. I thought the same although last time I did it was the evening after my viva, post pub ( ). Therefore, I concluded that it was 'likely' "all in the mind".
Quote from: Paul B on May 02, 2013, 11:22:15 pmQuote from: shark on May 02, 2013, 09:29:53 pmIts been a while but my recollection was that the hard move was moving left by the bolt on undercuts and smears. But now when you've done that move there seems to be worse holds than I remember ie smallish sidepulls which are hard to recover on followed by a gnarly reach through the overlap using a tiny crimp which felt like 6a. I thought the same although last time I did it was the evening after my viva, post pub ( ). Therefore, I concluded that it was 'likely' "all in the mind".I probably would have come to the same conclusion except my second who is a handy boulderer took a couple of goes to do the move and he said Brian from the Works took a big fall from up there last year.
went back.last year and did it by continuing left on crimps for a few feet from the end of the big undercuts, then moving up to the break and a move back right. It seemed a fairly obvious line to take when I was there that time, altho I had missed it previously!
