[crimp]

Planning my first ever day trip to sample the questionable delights of Portland in next few weeks.

Never been, i was always put off by birketts harrowing account of 'great' corner. However, just got newer guide, and looks worth a visit.

Bearing in mind I'll be getting train to weymouth, then charabanc to Portland. What area would anyone recommend for a first visit?

Criteria. Quick, easy access from bus road. Easier end grades. Bit of bouldering (matless, so flat landings). Some short walls easy to circumvent, for fixing up of shunt, so tradition or sport not important.

Looking at guide, i am thinking the cuttings, or neddyfields areas. I also like the look of blacknor beach. Bit of a shag to get to? The landings look a bit too gnarly, but can set up shunt as big boulders are bolted.

Any thoughts anyone?

[iain]

sample the questionable delights of Portland in next few weeks.

There's nothing like continually pulling rubbish off 20 year old routes. Most of it's pretty good really

Bouldering wise there would be plenty to keep you occupied at neddyfields (better for easier stuff) or the cuttings main cliffs, both with flat landings. Best to have a mat for the boulderfield. There's also a small quarry above Blacknor North with some short bouldering if you head west. Have you got the boulder guide?

Routes wise:
- you can definitely reach over the edge to access a lot of the anchors for the routes below neddyfields bouldering, not short though. Dungecroft quarry's nearby, shorter and I 'think' you can get to some of the anchors there
- Blacknor beach it's easy to get to the anchors on fallen slab, no idea about the other boulders down there. Just above the slab is sacred angel area and you can reach over the edge to a lot of the lines from the quarry.

Access to the west is just 5 mins more walking, although might be a faff to find your way around first time. pm me if you want better directions.

[crimp]

Thanks Iain

i have Duncans old rockfax guide. Photos seem to show many of the lower offs reachable from above for top rope.

First visit, so trying to avoid too much searching for things. Limited by public transport times and links. So just want to get there and make the most of getting a feel for it.

i have heard good things about Portland. But the rock on some of the topos looks decidedly like imperminent blocks of putty.

quite stoked and looking forward to it really.

[SA Chris]

If you stick to the more popular areas iain mentions there will be more polish than loose stuf. Still wear a lid though.

[iain]

If it's after the 17th I'll be climbing again, you'd be welcome to join us.

[crimp]

If it's after the 17th I'll be climbing again, you'd be welcome to join us.

thanks Iain.

That's really appreciated.

I'll PM you nearer the time.

Cheers