UKBouldering.com

[Peak][Gardoms North][7b] Gallstone (Read 1995 times)

highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1293
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
[Peak][Gardoms North][7b] Gallstone
April 15, 2013, 02:16:44 pm
Climbed a new finish to Kidneystone at Gardoms North yesterday.

Starts the same as Kidneystone but on reach the good hold, rather than heading right, you finish straight-up (perhaps moving a little left) using small crimps in the slanting crack. Makes the second half of the problem climb quite differently but the crux is still the first moves. We have a video but it's currently stuck on a phone, will post if we ever get it off!

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#1 Re: [Peak][Gardoms North][7b] Gallstone
April 15, 2013, 03:43:23 pm
I think this has been done quite a few times as the wrong finish 2 ks

Steamboat Stello

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 163
  • Karma: +1/-0
#2 Re: [Peak][Gardoms North][7b] Gallstone
April 15, 2013, 03:59:42 pm
Perhaps it has been done before, took a fair bit of cleaning though so doubt anyone has done it this way in the last few years. I'll try and post up the vid later. Nice little variant and not an eliminate so prob worthy of mention on peak bouldering.info at least.

leeroy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 507
  • Karma: +81/-0
#3 Re: [Peak][Gardoms North][7b] Gallstone
April 15, 2013, 04:03:41 pm
I cleaned this vaguely (it seemed cleanish already) a few months ago, but then didn't manage it that day. Been meaning to go back, good work james.

Steamboat Stello

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 163
  • Karma: +1/-0
#4 Re: [Peak][Gardoms North][7b] Gallstone
April 15, 2013, 04:08:13 pm
Shows how little I know! Quite a lot of dirt came out of the back of the seam so I presumed it might not have been cleaned before.

highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1293
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
#5 Re: [Peak][Gardoms North][7b] Gallstone
April 15, 2013, 05:14:44 pm
Doesn't surprise me that it's been done before. Now, at least, it has a name and I've put it on pb.info so perhaps more people will climb it.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal