[Steamboat Stello]

Yeah we were contemplating not heading out at one point but glad we chanced it. Was our first visit to Stonelands really so we mostly just did easier stuff on red dot and chasm and a few other odd things in the old guide. My mate did what we thought was a new sit start to breadcrumb trail but it had already been done a couple of weeks earlier apparently. Quality problem. Not 100% sure where/what the new stuff is.

[i_a_coops]

My mate did what we thought was a new sit start to breadcrumb trail but it had already been done a couple of weeks earlier apparently. Quality problem.

You sure about the exact number of weeks there? I did it the friday before last weekend and assumed it probably hadn't been done before, would love if it had had three 'first ascents' in three consecutive weeks 

[Steamboat Stello]

Ha! No I was refering to you Ian, apologies for the loose use of dates! ''My mate' is your old rival Hugh Reputon from Sheffield;). Also, this must be harder than V5 or I'm hanging up my boots forever!

[i_a_coops]

Haha! I didn't find it too much harder than the stand, but then again the original problem is desperate.....

Compared to problems I did/tried at the Roaches on Saturday: it's easier than The Greener Traverse Sit (6B+ which I couldn't pull onto  ), a world harder than Ant Lives (7A), and a bit harder than Stretch & Mantel (6C) physically but much less scary...

I give up on bouldering grades ever making sense.

I thought it was a good problem though! Makes the last move of Breadcrumb Trail a lot more climactic.

Edit: Can't believe I was in the Peak while Hugh and you were down south - I'll try and coordinate better next time 

[highrepute]

I did tell you I was coming down Mr Coops. I thought V6 for breadcrumb sit but also have no gasp of grades. Really good problem, Assume you were also laying one on out right to the best hold in the woods?

[i_a_coops]

Aye but I'm still a scumbag student of sorts and the scumbag uni club who were paying for my petrol don't refund your tenner once you've put your name down

Yes I did finish out right, that hold is amazing! I wouldn't argue with v6, especially as the stand is surely the kind of V4 that most v4 climbers wouldn't have a chance on...

[Kingy]

These two look good:

I repeated Aurora yesterday, I think it was the second ascent. Here is the vid, an excellent problem, very thin, nice one Alex on the FA!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNJUBb9XIOw&feature=youtu.be

[Duma]

Nice work kingy! Looks good, didn't get over to the flakes boulder when I was down last weekend, gf and skin had had enough after Hypothesis!

[Kingy]

Thanks, I had a look at Hypothesis in the dusk last night, manged to pull off the floor, some pretty savage crystals on that one! Did you make much headway or do it? Keen to come back to have another crack at it, intrigued by the upper moves. Better get growing some skin!

[Duma]

These two look good:

Repeated Hypothesis today, great problem (if, as ever on the moor, a little sharp...) 7C seems fair.

[Kingy]

Repeated Hypothesis today, great problem (if, as ever on the moor, a little sharp...) 7C seems fair.

 

[granticus]

Alex Waterhouse has been at it again, this time a ground up repeat of Devon Sent, brilliant effort!

I didn't put a rope on, so had to work out all the moves from the ground but I don't think the sharpness is really much of an issue, certainly no worse than a standard moor problem. All in all, probably one of the best climbs I've ever done and possibly (!!) the best problem in the South West

Full report from the skinny dwarf I only cycle now honest guv aka the King of the Moor's website here http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/

[tomrainbow]

Well done Alex - how about the project to the right next??

[Duma]

Between showers yesterday eve Hamish Potokar did Devon Sent (GU), said it was the longest he's ever spent on a problem, 7C+. Also an american on holiday had done it just before we arrived - bovey woods is the new international bouldering hotspot! Sadly I didn't manage to join the club, sorted sequence now though I think, just need skin to heal and weather to play ball before it gets too warm.

[macca7]

The same American  (I'm presuming here but can't imagine there are many visiting Americans crushing in the woods!) also recently completed the long term project arete to the right of Underdog. A long eyed project that has seen attention from many a woodsman!

Gave it V8 which I would have thought was in the grasp of said woodsman! Polished off in double quick time as well apparently!

A cracking line get to it!

[granticus]

Effort Hamish P.

'tis the same 'septic' Macca, lock up your projects he's here for at least a year!

[Steamboat Stello]

Aye. I was there to witness said ascent. It was actually over a month ago. I repeat my comment above but with adjusted grade. If this is V8 I'm hanging up my boots now! V grades are fucking bollocks anyway. Looked incredibly heel and reach dependent to me but also looked a bloody good problem.

[Duma]

looks on UKC like Hamish has done (the 3rd?) ascent of Super Dooper Trooper 8A at Saddle tor.

[tomrainbow]

Aye. I was there to witness said ascent. It was actually over a month ago. I repeat my comment above but with adjusted grade. If this is V8 I'm hanging up my boots now! V grades are fucking bollocks anyway. Looked incredibly heel and reach dependent to me but also looked a bloody good problem.

Funnily, Walker has added a sit start AND downgraded the problem to V7 (or 7a+ if you prefer)! He also intimated that Devon Sent is easier than 7c+!! Grades must be hard in Sweden.

Looks like a lot of the unclimbed lines in the woods may go in the next 12 months..

[EdGowSmith]

looks on UKC like Hamish has done (the 3rd?) ascent of Super Dooper Trooper 8A at Saddle tor.

4th (at least), strong northerner Mike Adams did it a little while back.

[Steamboat Stello]

Aye. I was there to witness said ascent. It was actually over a month ago. I repeat my comment above but with adjusted grade. If this is V8 I'm hanging up my boots now! V grades are fucking bollocks anyway. Looked incredibly heel and reach dependent to me but also looked a bloody good problem.

Funnily, Walker has added a sit start AND downgraded the problem to V7 (or 7a+ if you prefer)! He also intimated that Devon Sent is easier than 7c+!! Grades must be hard in Sweden.

Looks like a lot of the unclimbed lines in the woods may go in the next 12 months..

Wowser! Is the thing to the right and underdog coming down to 6a then?

[tomrainbow]

A new Dartmoor venue:



Beautiful spot, lovely rock (by Dartmoor standards) but, alas, not all that extensive...

[andy_e]

Good spotter on that first problem -  attentive, congratulatory, everything you need!

[tomrainbow]

A rare moment where he was not off chasing deer or down a badger set!

[Duma]

Sticking it here too, wouldn't rely on his sequence though, that high left hand is grim!