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South West (England) Bouldering (Read 172263 times)

cooknell

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#175 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 04, 2013, 03:35:07 pm
Thanks for the help guys.  I am based in Somerset, not far from Cheddar.

SA Chris

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#176 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 12:45:46 pm
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml

has a lot of lower grade stuff too. lovely spot, but prepare to get lost looking for specific problems.

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#177 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 01:08:21 pm
Does anyone know anything about the bouldering at Duckworth Pool? I found a very cool overhanging wall, which I'm sure has been climbed and looks about 7A/+.


andyd

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#178 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 02:58:21 pm
Where's that to bey?

SA Chris

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#179 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 03:50:37 pm
Oi've never 'eard of it noither.

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#180 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 04:57:42 pm
Sorry, I made it up. It's DuckPool Beach. Located here

andyd

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#181 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 05:49:20 pm
Oi've never 'eardof ov it noither neever.

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#182 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 06:56:57 pm
It's the first crag in Dave's new guide - http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf

Probably Campus Mentis?

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#183 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 08:01:11 pm
Heading to the culm coast next week for a 3 day mid-week rampage! Properly psyched  :bounce: Any further advice on which are the unmissable problems? 6C-7C.

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#184 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 09:06:20 pm
I'd vote;

Hartland - carnage, ache ball and clinical edge

Northcott - j-lo

Big Brother - natural born killer

You'll be wanting two pads, a towel, and lots of chalk for most of them.

granticus

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#185 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 05, 2013, 11:16:35 pm
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Any further advice on which are the unmissable problems? 6C-7C.

Add in  Varmint 7a, The Pinch 7a, Soul Structure 6c and Wet Bootie 7b , see Dave's Southern Culm guide for details...

And Trench Eliminate 7a, Corridors of Power 7c and Freddie Freeloader 6c+ at Hartland.

Would be a very decent (quality wise) tick list indeed, come to think of it Campus Mentis is pretty cool too!

My money is on Carnage being the star of the show and IMHO it should be at the top of your hit list.

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#186 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 06, 2013, 06:30:14 am
Quote

My money is on Carnage being the star of the show and IMHO it should be at the top of your hit list.

Definitely agree with this.

I checked out wet bootie a few weeks ago and there was a big block under it making it even more lowball than usual.

granticus

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#187 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 08, 2013, 10:31:55 am
Quote
I checked out wet bootie a few weeks ago and there was a big block under it making it even more lowball than usual.

We really need Huey to get to work this winter and shift some of these blocks out of the way.  Would be nice to have some decent surf too!

SA Chris

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#188 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 09, 2013, 09:17:19 am
You are really not in a position to complain. Last notable surf here was June.

granticus

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#189 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 09, 2013, 10:30:53 am
You are really not in a position to complain. Last notable surf here was June.
Sorry Chris. :boohoo:  Mustn't grumble!  You do have some epic breaks in your vicinity though.

SA Chris

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#190 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 10, 2013, 09:43:46 am
What, Aberdeen? Nowt epic here, furthest i venture is Moray Coast these days  :boohoo:

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#191 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 10, 2013, 11:28:37 am
I'd vote;

Hartland - carnage, ache ball and clinical edge

Northcott - j-lo

Big Brother - natural born killer

You'll be wanting two pads, a towel, and lots of chalk for most of them.
Quote
Any further advice on which are the unmissable problems? 6C-7C.

Add in  Varmint 7a, The Pinch 7a, Soul Structure 6c and Wet Bootie 7b , see Dave's Southern Culm guide for details...

And Trench Eliminate 7a, Corridors of Power 7c and Freddie Freeloader 6c+ at Hartland.

Would be a very decent (quality wise) tick list indeed, come to think of it Campus Mentis is pretty cool too!

My money is on Carnage being the star of the show and IMHO it should be at the top of your hit list.

Cheers guys. We went to Hartland on last years trip and did Carnage, clinical edge, trench eliminate etc. Thought Carnage was one of the best problems I've ever done. Will def check out Varmint, the pinch and soul structure. Is it worth a visit to upton purely to do Wet Booty? Any stuff to warm up on there?

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#192 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 11, 2013, 10:53:10 pm
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Is it worth a visit to upton purely to do Wet Booty? Any stuff to warm up on there?

Sorry, slow reply.  Might be too late.  There is basically nothing else of note down there, a few bits to bimble about on but nothing significant enough to remember (it's been a while).  It is a good problem but that really is it.  If only Upton roof was still there, that was bloody brilliant!

highrepute

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#193 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 15, 2013, 10:12:29 pm
Along wit the Steamboat did a SW bouldering tour this week. Contending with adverse weather we managed to take in Northcott, The Barn, a wet Burrator/combe tor, Tintagel and Lynmouth. Excellent stuff!

Wondered if anyone has done the low start to Blue Ray? Didn't manage it but interested to know the grade. this started down and LEFT. cheers

Will attempt to piece a little vid together soon.

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#194 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 16, 2013, 11:15:13 pm
Cheers for recommending some probs guys. Was a good mini-trip, didn't make it to Upton as the weather crapped out. I thought Red Quinne traverse was great (big block made it a bit awkward but not that bad really), the moves on J-lo damn cool but I didn't really get the appeal of the pinch.


highrepute

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#195 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 17, 2013, 06:49:27 pm


Some South West Love :)

EdGowSmith

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#196 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
September 17, 2013, 09:35:12 pm
Awesome video  :)
Must get myself to some of these places!

Beastly Squirrel

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#197 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
October 07, 2013, 06:03:34 pm
little low qual video of my bouldering around Bristol and South West this summer :-)

Andy W

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#198 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
December 05, 2013, 04:26:36 pm
Happy to say I have climbed 'evening song' up on Carn Brea, which I think is the FA. It's the longstanding sit start project to 'evening son'. It adds about 7 moves to the original stand up. I have a video if anyone fancies buying me a pint for the beta, its complex! Gradewise It's somewhere in the 7b/7c bracket. Its been mooted as a possible 7c, but it did feel easier to me once I had the right beta.

jstrongman

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#199 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
December 06, 2013, 11:35:33 am
Nice work Andy, great tick, new hardest problem for Carn Brea  :2thumbsup:

Cannot wait for me knee to get better and have a go at it :)

 

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