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South West (England) Bouldering (Read 172250 times)

granticus

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#125 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 21, 2013, 05:46:48 pm
Alright  :lol:
We'll probably start around the Bum Cheeks boulder as that doesn't get touched (that) much by the sea, and then work our way towards the cave area as the tide goes out  :)

High tide is 9.4m, that's a biggy, swell is 4ft @ 12seconds (there'll be a small wave round there) it'll definitely get touched by the sea.  However, the wind is perfect (NNW) and building throughout the day so things should dry out nicely.

Dave Westlake

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#126 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 11:37:15 am
Hello all,

I've finally resurrected and finished a mini guide that I started when I was unemployed ages ago - just in time for the bank holiday! It covers the Southern part of the Culm coast, basically the stretch around Bude (including Northcott, Sandymouth, Widemouth and others).

I've put it on ISSU here:  http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf

It should also be going up on Javu and probably Rock and Run fairly soon.

Many thanks to the people who helped in various ways -  much appreciated.

SA Chris

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#127 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 11:48:10 am
Great work Dave, wish this had been around 10 years ago. For one it may have saved shurt and I near death experiences after getting cut off at Sandymouth.

turnipturned

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#128 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 11:52:22 am
Nice one Dave, Looks great!

Andy W

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#129 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 12:04:09 pm
Hello all,

I've finally resurrected and finished a mini guide that I started when I was unemployed ages ago - just in time for the bank holiday! It covers the Southern part of the Culm coast, basically the stretch around Bude (including Northcott, Sandymouth, Widemouth and others).

I've put it on ISSU here:  http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf

It should also be going up on Javu and probably Rock and Run fairly soon.

Many thanks to the people who helped in various ways -  much appreciated.

nice one, bit of a downgrade for 'wet bootie'  :(  did it years ago, only to be told by Simon that we'd finished it wrong! A description in OTE said it was like Karma, which finishes left... the thing is, it isn't really like karma at all!...still it is a good problem.


andy popp

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#130 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 12:05:24 pm
Wow, great looking guide. Wish I could find a chance to use it.

Pantontino

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#131 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 01:38:19 pm
Nice work dave!

Wish I'd had that a few weeks back when I was down in devon.

I went to Northcott once about 12 years ago but only had sketchy information. Be great to go back with the 'knowledge'.

r-man

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#132 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 01:45:59 pm
Looks very nice. Well done!

SA Chris

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#133 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 02:04:59 pm
I went to Northcott once about 12 years ago but only had sketchy information.

Sketches out of an old OTE? I had to make do with that too.

granticus

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#134 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 02:14:46 pm
Brilliant work Dave, very slick.

'On Stranger Tides' looks amazing, definitely inspired to head down the coast for this.

Brought back some memories of great times blatting around fields in Simon's self made convertible SAAB, (amazing what you can achieve with an angle grinder), on the way down to 'Big Brother'.

Pantontino

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#135 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 04:22:05 pm
I went to Northcott once about 12 years ago but only had sketchy information.

Sketches out of an old OTE? I had to make do with that too.

Yeah, I think it was an article by Si Young.

This time when I went I had a bit of a senior moment, confusing Hartland with Northcott. I got to Hartland Quay and thought, 'Bloody hell, I don't remember any of this!'. It was only later that I realised I'd never actually been to Hartland before...  ::)

Duma

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#136 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 23, 2013, 08:56:09 pm
This looks brilliant! Cheers Dave.

granticus

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#137 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 24, 2013, 12:40:35 am
I've mentioned this earlier in the thread but probably relevant to say this again now...

The last time I went to Northcott a BIG chunk of rock had detached itself from the Red Quinnie roof above Boy Wonder and Captain Crush it looked like this would affect these problems.  The lump of rock had settled directly under Red Quinnie rendering that nigh on impossible to keep your bum off the deck.

It's been I while since I've been but I'd be interested to know if any of the problems are still climbable if anyone's been recently?

wintermute

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#138 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 24, 2013, 07:10:51 am
As others have said, cheers Dave! Great to finally know the score with all these places.

Grant, I went to Northcott about a month ago and the block under red quinnie was still there. I'd not been the roof before so no idea what effect it would have on the top of the other problems, but red qinnie itself was as you say.

There was also a honking great block under 'after the goldrush' at Duckpool. I didn't actually try it but it looked like it would make things very awkward, if it good be climbed at all. Campus mentis looked dead good though, if a little high for my liking on my own.

GazM

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#139 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 24, 2013, 08:17:19 am
Hi folks,
I'm going to be visiting family in North Somerset this week, near Weston-super-Mare/Cheddar area and keen to get out for 1 or 2 sessions.  I'm flying down and won't have a pad so would be keen to hook up with any locals if they're getting out and wouldn't mind showing me about - happy to go further afield than Somerset esoterica, and I'll have a car.  PM me if you'd be keen.
Alternatively, where would you recommend for someone sans pad (soft flat landings or plenty of easy stuff)? 

Ta, Gaz

granticus

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#140 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 24, 2013, 10:27:12 am
Grant, I went to Northcott about a month ago and the block under red quinnie was still there. I'd not been the roof before so no idea what effect it would have on the top of the other problems, but red qinnie itself was as you say.

There was also a honking great block under 'after the goldrush' at Duckpool. I didn't actually try it but it looked like it would make things very awkward, if it good be climbed at all. Campus mentis looked dead good though, if a little high for my liking on my own.

Alas this is the nature of coastal bouldering, hopefully we'll get some meaty winter swell that'll shift things around a bit.

SA Chris

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#141 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 26, 2013, 09:50:04 am
Alternatively, where would you recommend for someone sans pad (soft flat landings or plenty of easy stuff)? 

Be about an hour plus to get there Gaz, but Bonehill is mostly low with flat and/or grassy landings.


http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Bonehill/

GazM

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#142 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 26, 2013, 10:47:48 am
Cheers Chris. I'm off to Croscombe with Remus of this parish this arvo and had thought about a trip to the moor later in the week.

SA Chris

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#143 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 26, 2013, 11:04:32 am
It's like dermobrasion for the fingers! Plan a bank robbery for the next day, CSI won't even get a partial.

wintermute

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#144 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 27, 2013, 06:38:30 am
Another naff video of quality problems in the SW, including J-Lo, as covered in Dave's new guide -

Andy W

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#145 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 27, 2013, 09:37:27 am
Another naff video of quality problems in the SW, including J-Lo, as covered in Dave's new guide -

Nice video...J_Lo looks good what grade it is?


Duma

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#146 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 27, 2013, 01:45:10 pm
7B+

Top crimped pasties are the devils work - those folk have clearly been infected by the nearby infidels over the border.

Steamboat Stello

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#147 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 27, 2013, 03:49:34 pm
Another naff video of quality problems in the SW, including J-Lo, as covered in Dave's new guide

Ace. Whereabouts is the tintagel one?

wintermute

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#148 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 27, 2013, 05:55:02 pm
I'm not a pastie connoisseur..... Have I been duped by those Devonian bastards?

tomtom

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#149 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
August 27, 2013, 06:07:02 pm
I'm not from the SW - so hope this isn't wrong - but as I understand it..

The pastie should have its crust around the side. It was invented as a working man (miners) meal in one - and by having a rib of crust around one side, only the crust part need be sullied by whatever grime/grit/mining waste was on the miners hands and could thus be discarded after eating the middle bit. This is much trickier when its top crimped - possibly this design was for the white collar workers of the day ;)

 

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