[M.R.]

Lulworth topo available here:
http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf

plus some other bits documented if you fancy trawling through the website.

[crimp]

Lulworth topo available here:
http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf

plus some other bits documented if you fancy trawling through the website.

hi buddy.

Check the wiki. There's no dorset section. Why not start one? You've already got one topo link to add.

Enough people will offer how to pointers if you need them.

Cheers

Adge

[danski]

I would recommend the Sliced Slug boulder at Huntsham (near Monmouth) for some very unusual pocketed sandstone traverses.  Huntsham overall is definitely worth a visit but Sliced Slug is a premier league boulder.  It stays dry in light rain also.  See UK climbing for a list of problems, or esoteric bouldering for the topo. 

[crimp]

I would recommend the Sliced Slug boulder at Huntsham (near Monmouth) for some very unusual pocketed sandstone traverses.  Huntsham overall is definitely worth a visit but Sliced Slug is a premier league boulder.  It stays dry in light rain also.  See UK climbing for a list of problems, or esoteric bouldering for the topo.

topo in bristol wiki. And huntsham webcam (you can check local weather before you travel)

[crimp]

I would recommend the Sliced Slug boulder at Huntsham (near Monmouth) for some very unusual pocketed sandstone traverses.  Huntsham overall is definitely worth a visit but Sliced Slug is a premier league boulder.  It stays dry in light rain also.  See UK climbing for a list of problems, or esoteric bouldering for the topo.

topo in bristol wiki. And huntsham webcam (you can check local weather before you travel)

huntsham really is a cracking venue in my opinion.

There are access problems.

https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=920

please keep numbers small, discreet, and well behaved. If you are asked to leave, please keep the discussion polite, and report to access rep.

Check parking notes in guidebook, and stick to them.

As with all sandstone, if rock is wet, don't climb it.

Have fun. There's some real class problems and routes.

[fried]

Shamelessly stolen from the other-side.

http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/story/2013-04-30/breaking-landslide-in-dorset/

Not sure how or if this affects the climbing but there seems to be a problem with cliff stability in the area. I'd like to watch the videos to get an idea of the reasons why, but my internet connection is far too slow, so if anyone with a bit of geological know-how wants to enlighten me, feel free.

[crimp]

Shamelessly stolen from the other-side.

http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/story/2013-04-30/breaking-landslide-in-dorset/

Not sure how or if this affects the climbing but there seems to be a problem with cliff stability in the area. I'd like to watch the videos to get an idea of the reasons why, but my internet connection is far too slow, so if anyone with a bit of geological know-how wants to enlighten me, feel free.

that whole stretch of coast is like congealed putty. Landslips are frequent, geologically speaking, and wholly unpredictable.

I've seen the photos on BBC.  doesn't seem to have affected lulworth, or even durdle door.

[fried]

I lived in Portsmouth for a while and there were always stories of landslides, especially from the isle of Wight. I was just wondering if this was something new or just the usual crap rock-falls into sea- shocker.

[crimp]

Usual crap rock/mud falls into the sea by looks of it. Good news for fossil hunters.

While you're at lulworth, don't forget to see the petrified forest. It's not overly exciting unless you're into palaeolandscapes. But hell, it's not every day you see one

[A Jooser]

I'm enjoying this thread  and well done to Andy W for climbing The Zennor Fool - an awesome addition.

Here's a short video from the other day with a few of Carn Brea's classics...

[Beastly Squirrel]

Video of my bouldering in the south west last summer:
Also working on one for this spring and summer in the south west and UK 
Plus a topo for a nice crag in Bristol - Ladye Bay, worth a good evenings climbing: http://www.beastlysquirrelblog.com/#/ladye-bay/4569514566

[crimp]

https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=508

[ben]

Here's a short video from the other day with a few of Carn Brea's classics...

Some good beta for me on those second two Barney  . Never been able to work how you start bloodstone!

[M.R.]

Added the link to the Lulworth bouldering to the Dorset wiki page. Would like to report something a bit more creative but that wiki editing thing made my brain hurt.

On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?

Ta.

[crimp]

If heading for Cheesewring or Chudleigh, check RAD. Access details have been updated.

It also says climbing at black rocks near Portishead is banned. But that is not new.

[crimp]

Added the link to the Lulworth bouldering to the Dorset wiki page. Would like to report something a bit more creative but that wiki editing thing made my brain hurt.

On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?

Ta.

good question. There seem to be different access dates on different crags branching off shoot gully in guidebook as well.

If you contact Ian Butterworth, he should be able to help.

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Profile.aspx?id=459

[lukeh]

On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?

No, its in Wallflower Shelter, Castle Rocks. Which makes it part of the restored routes, and therefore out of action from 25 May to 2 June, and then again from 1 July to 1 Sept, so we've got 6 weeks to tick before September rolls around again . (Pretty sure I'm reading that right, its clearer in the guide but I can't find my copy this morning...)

[M.R.]

Excellent, thanks.

[duncan]

Added the link to the Lulworth bouldering to the Dorset wiki page. Would like to report something a bit more creative but that wiki editing thing made my brain hurt.

On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?

As Luke says this is off peak Summer so you have until the 30th June.

It might get some sun late in the day in high summer but is in deep shade most of the time.

One other point of note, the access path is through a big bank of nettles, shorts and flip-flops are not recommended as I found to my cost.

[crimp]

 

Avon Gorge - New Quarry Bouldering

grr666 and myself visited the new quarry yesterday.

The left hand side which often stays dryish. Every single hold was smothered in chalk. Even a pair of holds just 3 inches off the ground were chalked up, gotta be for feet ticks i assume.

Without any prompting, grr, on his first ever outdoor trip, pointed out this makes it like following climbing wall holds and kinda spoils it.

Please, clean your heavy chalking off. It ruins it for others, and makes some holds worse to use for those who come after.

[crimp]

See other thread for your newly elected SW area reps for the coming year.

You will note there are now individual area reps for not only cornwall, portland, and swanage, but also, hold the bus! 2 reps for Devon. One for north Devon, and one for south Devon.

I am sure they are all contactable through BMC website.

So there really is no excuse anymore for anyone complaining about the bristol SW climbing mafia running things in the whole SW (although we will be running the crag protection racket. Kapiche?)

[Oldmanmatt]

Rek'n there's room for ambitious yoof in the chalk smuggling racket, though .....

[crimp]

I like you kid. You've got spirit. You're alright. Don't cross us though, or we'll bolt the north coast.

Ps you'll notice that although you now have 2 Devon reps, they were voted in by the bristol mafia in the back room of a boozer. We chose them for you. Made them an offer they couldn't refuse.

I think the way it works is our patsys your Devon reps come to our bristol meetings, tell us what you want, then we tell them what we have decided they are going to do.

Just give you a wee conspiracy theory there. Now that you can't scapegoat us anymore.

[wintermute]

Quality bit of Somerset Esoterica - no excuses now you've got the beta.



Word of warning though - the approach details on ukc are absolute bobbins..... ignore them completely and from the car park; take the path out the back to the east, then head up some steps on the left after about 150m. Go through the gate and then pretty much straight across the field, maybe slightly east till you get to the obviously pebble beach. The prow is tucked away in a little niche on the eastern side.

[Greg C]

Nice one Chris, glad to see you're keeping keen.

Looks great that, remember seeing a pic of it not too long back. Cool feature.