[crimp]

Quality bit of Somerset Esoterica - no excuses now you've got the beta.



Word of warning though - the approach details on ukc are absolute bobbins..... ignore them completely and from the car park; take the path out the back to the east, then head up some steps on the left after about 150m. Go through the gate and then pretty much straight across the field, maybe slightly east till you get to the obviously pebble beach. The prow is tucked away in a little niche on the eastern side.

hi bud.

What venue is that at? Looks nice. Is there much to go at there? Spread of grades, tidal, etc?

Cheers.

[Duma]

Nice one wintermute, assume you're the Chris that was out there with Tom recently then?
Nice work correcting the approach stuff, meant to comment a while back when we went but never got round to it.
Regarding this:

...no excuses now you've got the beta.

- I'm not sure my sequence had more than two moves in common with yours!

Adge - its Sand Point, north of WSM. The pebble beach wintermute mentions in his approach beta is called Middle Hope. there's probably scope for a few sub 6 problems on the walls around the prow, but really this is the line. Think Tom mentioned some potential walls they found wondering the beach so maybe more to be discovered? Yes tidal, not sure how much.

[shurt]

Quality bit of Somerset Esoterica - no excuses now you've got the beta.



Word of warning though - the approach details on ukc are absolute bobbins..... ignore them completely and from the car park; take the path out the back to the east, then head up some steps on the left after about 150m. Go through the gate and then pretty much straight across the field, maybe slightly east till you get to the obviously pebble beach. The prow is tucked away in a little niche on the eastern side.

What sort of grade does this weigh in at?!

[crimp]

Nice one wintermute, assume you're the Chris that was out there with Tom recently then?
Nice work correcting the approach stuff, meant to comment a while back when we went but never got round to it.
Regarding this:

...no excuses now you've got the beta.

- I'm not sure my sequence had more than two moves in common with yours!

Adge - its Sand Point, north of WSM. The pebble beach wintermute mentions in his approach beta is called Middle Hope. there's probably scope for a few sub 6 problems on the walls around the prow, but really this is the line. Think Tom mentioned some potential walls they found wondering the beach so maybe more to be discovered? Yes tidal, not sure how much.

thanks Duma, and wintermute. Looks nice spot, have to pay a visit sometime at low water. I've climbed on the point of sand point, but never visited this one. Cheers.

[wintermute]

Hi Duma.... Yeah thats me. I'm sure i'll bump into you down the wall at somepoint.

Sam, It's around the 7C mark.

Greg, of course! Nothing else to do when i'm not indulging in a spot of bat voyeurism.

[crimp]

Just to add.

Middle Hope is in A&C guidebook, page 201 in cheddar.

It recommends accessible except for 2 hours either side of high water.

[Andy W]

Here's a short video from the other day with a few of Carn Brea's classics...

Some good beta for me on those second two Barney  . Never been able to work how you start bloodstone!

alternative beta for 'bloodstone arete'...did it today, by stepping in from right, using very rounded flake and usual nothing holds for the left, rock over onto the left starting hold, the difference then from the video is that you have your left foot on the start hold and not your right, climbs better than the jump version in my opinion...couldn't do the jump today, much too warm!

[M.R.]

I've recently discovered the dubious delights of the bouldering in "Sally in the Woods" - I've managed to identify a number of interesting looking problems based on what I've found on t'internet so far. I've done a bit of searching on here and it seems like there was an article knocking about a few years back, anyone have a copy they could share? Also wondering if anyone out there has any more information/ topos etc.

Seems like there were also some concerns about access and making more information available online, anyone know if this still applies?

Ta in advance.

[crimp]

I've recently discovered the dubious delights of the bouldering in "Sally in the Woods" - I've managed to identify a number of interesting looking problems based on what I've found on t'internet so far. I've done a bit of searching on here and it seems like there was an article knocking about a few years back, anyone have a copy they could share? Also wondering if anyone out there has any more information/ topos etc.

Seems like there were also some concerns about access and making more information available online, anyone know if this still applies?

Ta in advance.

Hi. There's a link to Bath bouldering in the Bristol area wiki if that helps.

[ben]

Drop me a mail, ben @ mendipclimb.org.uk and i'll dig out the bathford bouldering details i have for you

[M.R.]

Thanks guys.

Ben - mail sent.

[crimp]

This ones been quiet for a while?

What SW news anyone?

New routes, significant repeats, new discoveries, access/conservation. What's happening with the ansteys bolt saga?

How's the boulder bunker build coming Matt?

Any more reports from bath area?

Finally a plug for Avon and Cheddar fixed gear fund. Rebolting routes, and replacing manky old pegs.

http://www.dicksclimbing.com/products/donate-to-the-avon-and-cheddar-fixed-gear-fund

[granticus]

New routes, significant repeats, new discoveries, access/conservation. What's happening with the ansteys bolt saga?

Tom Newberry's been busy adding test pieces around Exmoor and the Culm Coast. 

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/

[jstrongman]

At Godrevy Dave Biggs has climbed a power packed lower start to pisspot called "crackpot" and graded F7B+ although you may have to be 8A strong to make it feel 7B+!! 

[ben]

although you may have to be 8A strong to make it feel 7B+!!

I bet you do James - Many a time I've felt the holds on the low start and thought it would be possible but not at 7b+!   how far right does it start?

[jstrongman]

At the moment (they are now working a lower/further right start) you start on the obvous sloper below and to the right of the original pisspot start, there has been some breakage of the sloper over the last couple of months and it is still changing a little, Dave apparently ripped another bit off last night, hopefully now he can give it a more realistic F7C?

[EdGowSmith]

A video of some problems from Lynmouth, North Devon 

[granticus]

A video of some problems from Lynmouth, North Devon 

To embed video just copy and paste the URL and the forum does the rest for you:



Lovely to see some footage from my local.  Loved the comedy mantle attempts on the Slopey Traverse

Pretty in Pink:- is essentially an eliminate that starts where you did, then right hand to the arete and moves dynamically straight to the jug.  You climbed one of many variations on this wall that are all a similar grade.

Joker and the Thief:- Traditionally climbs more direct and the slot you went to with your left hand isn't in (you go to the hold you used with your right hand and then mantel/palm down the starting hold, you'll love it!) Again should probably be described as an eliminate.

I need to update the flippin' guide!

Will be there tomorrow morning trying to link an extended start into Monster Tide!

[EdGowSmith]

Thanks, was wondering how to do that!

And cheers for the beta on those two - guess I've got to go back and do them properly now!

There's so many awesome problems left for me to try so will probably be making another video later in the Summer

[ben]

Will be there tomorrow morning trying to link an extended start into Monster Tide!

not surfing?!  it's lookin' nice down 'ere

[M.R.]

A few from Devon

[granticus]

Will be there tomorrow morning trying to link an extended start into Monster Tide!

not surfing?!  it's lookin' nice down 'ere

Have been getting really motivated to climb recently and have been choosing climbing over surfing even when it's pumping and offshore 

Here's some footage of my best link from t'other morning on the extension into Monster Tide, really quality problem, there might be some helpful foot work beta in there somewhere for you Ed?!  Although you do seem to be able to campus through the difficulties 



The excuses, it was stinking hot and gopping wet.  2 moves short of the top out.  It will happen!

[A Jooser]

Now I know this is more chuffing than bouldering but I thought I'd add it here to help keep this fine thread alive... To help promote the Cheesewring & South East Cornwall guidebook there are some new pages on the publisher's website with News, Articles, New Routes and Updates, etc., for the area. These can be found here. Recent additions include new F7b and F7c sport routes in Cheesewring Quarry, plenty of trad adventure on the South Coast from the likes of Crocker and Littlejohn and even some details of a new lower grade bouldering area in the Luxulyan Valley. And don't forget anyone interested in bouldering on Bodmin Moor should really check out Sean Hawken's Bodmin Bouldering Facebook page.

[EdGowSmith]

Looking good! Is that where Mike's Extension goes?

Here's some footage of my best link from t'other morning on the extension into Monster Tide, really quality problem, there might be some helpful foot work beta in there somewhere for you Ed?!  Although you do seem to be able to campus through the difficulties 

Haha yes there might be indeed! Think some feet are needed if I'm going to do it! 

[granticus]

Looking good! Is that where Mike's Extension goes?

Ta. Hmmmm.. Such are the vagaries of coastal climbing.. It's all kind of up for debate.  Originally Mike started from a jug on the up problem just left of Monster Tide but the beach level was higher and thus the moves into the start were harder.

Subsequently he climbed it from where I start in the video, having discussed this with him recently he reckons the levels were still higher when he did this but then he is a beast!?

It's so hard to grade stuff around the coast when the levels shift so much.

The answer to the question is; yes it is where the extension goes.  The difficulty and method may vary according to beach levels.  Feels around the 7b+/7c mark with the current beach level, starting from where I did.  Just a lovely piece of climbing so not too bothered about the grade or beach level, just want to link the bluddy thing! Monster Tide is a classic in itself.