[BrutusTheBear]

Trying to work out who you are.. Not local, visited Lynmouth a fair bit.  Hi Adam 👋 ???

You'd not make much money on Exmoor.  Definitely a market to be exploited int Peak though!

[CapitalistPunter]

Correct haha, good investigation work.

[Tom Last]

I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.

There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar. 
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job.  

That's just the tip of the iceberg though..  There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland.  New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area .  Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

Hey Brutus. Hope you're all good. Sorry only just seen this, I only ever lurk on here. Guide is coming along. I'd say 85% done, but not in a useful way, since every crag is 85% done. So there's lots of fiddly stuff to do basically and then there's paying for the damned thing to be printed etc., which will no doubt be a whole other story.

I think we've pretty much kept up with any significant developments on Bodmin Moor, South Coast and Penwith, but perhaps not the culm so much (remember, Hartland is not in!) - it's hard to find time to get up there between working, also Mr B. has his hands full these days.

Honestly though, general shout for anyone reading this thread, if you have done/know of anything good that's been done anywhere in Cornwall, then please get in touch and I can put stuff in.

Oh, and Kingholmsey, thanks for the shout 

[BrutusTheBear]

Hi Tom I am all good. Hope things are good with you.
Cheers for the update.  Such a difficult task putting together a guide, fully appreciate the effort.  Even knocking up a basic topo for one venue is time consuming. I guess ultimately every guidebook producer has to draw the line and accept it's going to be out of date the day its printed. 

[Ged]

I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.

There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar. 
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job.  

That's just the tip of the iceberg though..  There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland.  New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area .  Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

Hey Brutus. Hope you're all good. Sorry only just seen this, I only ever lurk on here. Guide is coming along. I'd say 85% done, but not in a useful way, since every crag is 85% done. So there's lots of fiddly stuff to do basically and then there's paying for the damned thing to be printed etc., which will no doubt be a whole other story.

I think we've pretty much kept up with any significant developments on Bodmin Moor, South Coast and Penwith, but perhaps not the culm so much (remember, Hartland is not in!) - it's hard to find time to get up there between working, also Mr B. has his hands full these days.

Honestly though, general shout for anyone reading this thread, if you have done/know of anything good that's been done anywhere in Cornwall, then please get in touch and I can put stuff in.

Oh, and Kingholmsey, thanks for the shout 

Alexis has done a bunch of stuff at Porth erras. He's not sure if it's new or not. Is that in?

[Tom Last]

I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.

There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar. 
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job.  

That's just the tip of the iceberg though..  There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland.  New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area .  Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

Hey Brutus. Hope you're all good. Sorry only just seen this, I only ever lurk on here. Guide is coming along. I'd say 85% done, but not in a useful way, since every crag is 85% done. So there's lots of fiddly stuff to do basically and then there's paying for the damned thing to be printed etc., which will no doubt be a whole other story.

I think we've pretty much kept up with any significant developments on Bodmin Moor, South Coast and Penwith, but perhaps not the culm so much (remember, Hartland is not in!) - it's hard to find time to get up there between working, also Mr B. has his hands full these days.

Honestly though, general shout for anyone reading this thread, if you have done/know of anything good that's been done anywhere in Cornwall, then please get in touch and I can put stuff in.

Oh, and Kingholmsey, thanks for the shout 

Alexis has done a bunch of stuff at Porth erras. He's not sure if it's new or not. Is that in?

Hi Ged.

Brilliant, thanks. I'll give him a shout. There were a couple of easy existing problems on the big pea boulders where the beach meets the descent which I've put in, but the hanging groove on them was an obvious problem that needed to be done. I wonder if it was that?
Cheers for the info 


Brutus. You're right, but I can pretty easily add new stuff up to the 11th hour, it's all the fiddly nonsense at the end that's the pain. And maps! Urgh.

[BrutusTheBear]

Maps are indeed a pain in behind. 
Mikey's done loads of stuff from Moor to coast most of which I'm sure he's spoken to you about but he may have snuck some bits in that you're not aware of.
Worth talking to Solly, Kyle and Ruby about new stuff they've done on the Cornish Culm.

[BrutusTheBear]

A quick update blog on some very cool new things that have been done over the last year or so on the eternal backwater that is the Exmoor Coast. It's all insta links I'm afraid but hit me up if you don't instaspam and want more information or details on approaches, venues etc. 
(Rumour has it that up to dates guides are incoming for Exmoor trad and undocumented bouldering venues are in production, contact Martin Crocker if you have details of anything trad like!) 

https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/post/exmoor-coast-update-september-2022

[kingholmesy]

Rumour has it that up to dates guides are incoming for Exmoor trad

That sounds exciting - there’s a lot of rock on that coast and some excellent, infrequently travelled, trad.

[BrutusTheBear]

Rumour has it that up to dates guides are incoming for Exmoor trad

That sounds exciting - there’s a lot of rock on that coast and some excellent, infrequently travelled, trad.

Martin Crocker is busy compiling notes etc.. so much good quality rock (and some other rock ) with an extra element of adventure and remoteness despite being relatively close to civilisation.  Didn't you repeat some stuff near Lee Abbey with Stu B?  I'm sure MC would appreciate any information anyone who has visited recently has got, particularly if nature's done some resetting.

[kingholmesy]

Didn't you repeat some stuff near Lee Abbey with Stu B?

I repeated Crocker’s route Terry (named in honour of Terry Cheek) and on my recommendation Stu has since climbed it too.

This four pitch E5 is one of the best sea cliff routes I have ever done and  I would highly recommend it.  The rock and gear is a bit spicy in places, but the hardest climbing is all well protected and on good rock. Overall it’s quite soft for E5 too - I don’t get up hard E5s!

Stu has also repeated Turnball’s route Chimney Sweep which is E5 (or XS) and shares the same first pitch. He said it was pretty good, although being Stu he was disappointed that more offwidthing wasn’t required. 

The nearby Yellow Stone offers some less committing but still worthwhile single pitches.

All of the above is already in Littlejohn’s SW Climbs. There must be swathes of rock along that coast though not currently covered by a guide, including plenty of unclimbed shale challenges for anyone keen. 

[BrutusTheBear]

I repeated Crocker’s route Terry (named in honour of Terry Cheek) and on my recommendation Stu has since climbed it too.

This four pitch E5 is one of the best sea cliff routes I have ever done and  I would highly recommend it.  The rock and gear is a bit spicy in places, but the hardest climbing is all well protected and on good rock. Overall it’s quite soft for E5 too - I don’t get up hard E5s!

  I'm sure you're just being modest!  I don't get up any E5s myself, let alone 4 pitches bit hard to protect with crashpads.  I knew there was a connection with Stu as I recalled him mentioning you (don't worry he was full of praise!) at a talk pre COVID times.
Terry was an absolute legend and really encouraging on bouldering and promoting climbing in general on Exmoor Coast.  Apt that the route named in his honour is a diamond.
Exmoor has always had that little bit of mystery about it and never truly been in vogue.  Just a little bit tricky to get to and harder to find information on  but damn does it reward the effort.  Been in love with the place since I move to N Devon and it hasn't really wavered.

[kingholmesy]

  glad to hear Stu had nice things to say.

I’ve not climbed on the Exmoor coast since moving further west into Cornwall, but I ought to make the effort again sometime.  If only there was a decent guide …

[JJP]

Hi folks

Great thread.
We are going to be staying in the South West for a couple weeks late July and early August.
Staying in Croyde for a week and near St Columb major the second week.
Reading this thread and looking on UKC there is obv loads of bouldering.

Will be there with the family and likely have a few evenings to get out bouldering.
Wondering if there was any recommendations for family friendly venues.

Ideally would have easy stuff and things in the 6`s and low 7`s.
Lynmouth looks like could be a good option?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[kingholmesy]

While staying at St Columb I suggest Little Fistral for bits and bobs of bouldering straight off the beach.

Other options would be Helman Tor or Roche Rock inland if it’s not too hot for the granite. The latter has less bouldering than the former but has some bits, plus some easy routes if you’re into soloing.

All are family friendly (short walk ins, flat areas to chill) and you should find enough info on UKC to get by without a guide.

[CapitalistPunter]

Ideally would have easy stuff and things in the 6`s and low 7`s.
Lynmouth looks like could be a good option?

Lynmouth is great, some really good problems there. The Joker And the Theif 7A is probably the best problem there. Twister is a good 6A crack thing on the same section.

Hartland is well worth the drive while there, beautiful place.

[BrutusTheBear]

Lynmouth is great, some really good problems there. The Joker And the Theif 7A is probably the best problem there. Twister is a good 6A crack thing on the same section.

Hartland is well worth the drive while there, beautiful place.

Why thank you! Joker and the Thief is one I am particularly proud of.

If you are looking for a quick hit of some excellent low to mid-grade bouldering on your doorstep in Croyde.  I  recommend Down End Point!  The point between Croyde and Saunton Sands.  Park at last lay-by before sharp bend into Croyde - walk straight down through the field... find a fisherman's rope down a gulley and head rightwards to the zawn's beneath the big white house off of Grand Designs.  No guides, no info.. locals training ground pioneered by legend Steve Jossyln. 
Lynmouth fits your requirements perfectly - expect a 45min drive from Croyde depending on your rural driving skills!  East for a compact, easy access area and west for destination problems like Anarchy Arete!  Guide and details of newer stuff on exmoorbouldering.com
Check out my instaspam @brutusthebear , Ruby Petch's, Solly Kemball Dory's and Kyle Whitehand's for a taster/ inspiration.

Hartland Quay is brilliant - lower to mid -grades head for The Trench and beyond or go to one of the best bits of rock in the UK and try Carnage!  Probably an hour ish to drive from Croyde. 

There is a team of us out and about in the area regularly. Feel free to PM me if you're feeling social, want a spot/ more paddage. 

The tide is now your master and you will need to know when low-tide is in order to avoid disappointment! 

[Ged]

On a different note, did I imagine that there is a Cornwall bouldering guide in production? If there is, any idea when it's out?

[yetix]

+1 for Carnage. Probably one of the best 7Bs I've done with similair quality to Paul o Grady I North Wales (clearly I like slopers on volcanics!)

[teestub]

Dependent on the age of your kid(s), Tintagel is a lovely spot on a wave cut platform, not a long approach, but there is a bit of a steep descent to get down.

Carnage is indeed amazing (made of shale though Yetix ), but has a scramble to get down to, so potentially not one for the family! If you do get down there though you're likely to have a boulder beach to yourself!

[Bradders]

Carnage is indeed amazing (made of shale though Yetix )

It's Culm sandstone no?

Lots of pads needed for Carnage. Found it pretty scary on my own. On the other side of the Quay the Trench area is great fun, can just work your way along the wall.

[BrutusTheBear]

+1 for Carnage. Probably one of the best 7Bs I've done with similair quality to Paul o Grady I North Wales (clearly I like slopers on volcanics!)

Slopers?    Carnage - savage pull on undercuts, into a crimp followed by more undercuts into a finger jug...  Big burley moves on an overhanging wall on Culm (carboniferous sandstone/ shale).  The important part being it is very good!

Missed the family friendly bit..  Lynmouth East easily accessible and a great beach for the chidlers to mooch about on looking for sea glass/ scrambling/ paddling, all the usual tourist trappings for pre or post bouldering treats ice cream, pasties, fudge, fish n chips, cream teas, pint etc...
Lynmouth West - Is not so accessible, boulder hopping, lots of potential for unwary chidlers to fall down gaps in the rocks etc.. not ideal for a family trip out but a relatively quick way to find yourself feeling miles away from civilization in a stunning environment.

Hartland Quay - Carnage Wall involves an easy scramble to boulder hop.  The Trench, Ache Ball cave, Clinical Edge etc.. boulder hopping across a large bay.  Rhino boulder and End is Nigh etc..  Walk along coast path, scramble down a slab using fisherman's rope (quite a big overlap half way down) followed by boulder hopping.  Hotel/ Pub for post session pint/ grub.

[JJP]

Thanks everyone for all the amazing beta and recommendations, super excited now!

Lynmouth for The Joker and the Thief sounds like a great aim for the first week.
Tintagel looks brilliant. Might go on an evening myself first and check approach - kids are 12 and 14.
Just watched the vid of carnage, looks ace but probs a bit burly for me!
We were in Croyde last year for a week but didnt climb at all - do remember walking past the big white house from Grand Designs though so also keen to check out Down End Point.

Little Fistral looks an amazing spot from the UKC pics for the second week.   

Also cool to here there are granite inland options as well if temps are ok.

Thanks again everyone 

[BillyTheMountain]

On a different note, did I imagine that there is a Cornwall bouldering guide in production? If there is, any idea when it's out?

I know the Tom's (Last & Bunn) are working on a guide but I think it's been in production for quite a long time (probably a passion project) and no idea when they are aiming to get it out. Probably worth shooting Tom a message to ask.

Edit: Just found this update saying they are in the final parts of production from 21 weeks ago: https://www.instagram.com/p/Co-EhdltatF/

[BrutusTheBear]

At 12 and 14, JJP your wildlings will be absolutely fine on all of the approaches mentioned.  They will be fine going west at Lynmouth too.
Have a good one.