[macca7]

How did you get on did you manage to get out today?

Fingers crossed you found something dry and didn't get blown away!

Sadly my pass was revoked so no joy for me. My wife has a cold so didn't fancy looking after both kids while I swanned off. 

Shame, at least you didn't miss a perfect day. Hope everyone is feeling better!

[EdGowSmith]

 I made a little video about a project I've been trying at Smallacombe Rocks.

[Duma]

looks ace! nice one.

[BrutusTheBear]

Great stuff EGS and Beesty Skwirl.
Got a little extra time on my hands, isolating innit.
Lots has been happening on the Exmoor Coast over the last year or two. With some keen yoots revitalising the scene, putting new stuff up and opening new areas.
I have built a website to get information out there and keep people informed.
DON’T start visiting just yet though.
Anyhoo, check it out, constructive feedback is welcome.
https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/

[BrutusTheBear]

I meant don’t start visit Exmoor, by all means visit the website. :

[BrutusTheBear]

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days... and the last 2 were me 

Seems like the best place to put this though... I have produced Mini-guide for the bouldering at Hurlstone Point, Bossington, Nr Porlock (the Somerset end of the Exmoor Coast).  Probably of most interest to locals but if you happen to be in Porlock/ Minehead area and want a workout this place is ideal.

There's a wee blog on the website too and the downloadable guide can be found here.

https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/news

[Duma]

Nice one Grant, looks good!

[BrutusTheBear]

Nice one Grant, looks good!

  Cheers Duma.  It's a great little venue.  Next projects are the section of coast immediately west of Porlock and a hugely overdue Lynmouth update.  The long-term project is to add all the venues and known problems between Minehead and Combe Martin.

[EdGowSmith]

Yeah looks great, nice one. Been a while since I've been up that way, might have to change that soon...

I think it's worth giving a quick round up of new things that have been done in South Devon and Dartmoor over the last couple years which haven't been widely reported.

Holwell Tor
The ever-prolific James Squire has climbed a new thing called Low Hanging Fruit, 8A (with a 7B+ higher start): https://www.instagram.com/p/CY6pKssIFPZ/
Jame's common partner in crime (first-ascenting), Alex Kellas, climbed this techy-looking thing called Moon Walk, at 7B+ https://www.instagram.com/p/CZMQqsSu70A/
Climbing towards the left arete is Moon W*nk, 7A+.
Rob Hearnden added Enchanted Arete, 7A+ https://www.instagram.com/p/CS4r1RYj1Hf/
Jezz Miles and the mysterious "Nick b" added Frogon and Jogon (opposite Schmogon), at 6B and 7A, repsectively.
Details for all on UKC.

Smallacombe Rocks
James Squire has done the incredible hanging prow project to the right of Gems in a Granite Setting. Tried by Dave Henderson back in the day, and more recently by me (and likely others), James crazily did this thing by himself with just 4 pads. Named Commitment Issues and given 8A: https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca0a4mJtPnl/

Ausewell Rocks
No new climbing to report, but the access situation has improved for the better: the woods are now open to the public with a large car park.

Bench Tor
Some great-looking things tackling the roof under Bench Press have been done by Seth Macdonald: Stegasauras 7C+, and X Marks the Choss, 7B+ (details on UKC)

Heybrook Bay, Westlake Boulders, Bovisand Boulders
A bunch of new stuff done recently, details on UKC, of most interest for Plymouth locals I'd expect.

Great Rock
Great Train Robbery, 7A, FAd by George Hogarth, tackles the big boulder on the top of the ridge:

East Side Boulders
A fair few new things at the lower grades done in the woods by Ryan Blackmore and Mike Marcus, details on UKC.

Middleworth Plantation
Nearby, some new things done by me just below the path on the way to Cuckoo Rock:

Cuckoo Rock
A low start to Dyno From Undercuts, done by James Whitehouse, called Dynoplay and given 7B.

Lakeside Boulders
Monkeyin' Around, 8A+, done by Solly KD: https://www.instagram.com/p/CM5B4GujR4I/

Gutter Tor
A bunch of lower-grade stuff has been done recently, seems like it has a nice little circuit.

Little and Great Trowlesworthy Tor
A number of things done by UKC user AMJ098, again seems like it has a nice little circuit.

Lustleigh
I think quite a few new things have been done here by Ben Rowe, but I don't have the details!

Torquay
A fair few things done by me and Alexis Perry, details on UKC (and I'm reaching writing exhaustion), probably time for a little guide soon...

Phew... Anything that I've missed out?

[Steamboat Stello]

You missed one that I know of. Alexis Perry climbed the obvious crack left of Mufasa at Cartoonlands. He called it the Ten Crack Commandments and gave it 7C. Slightly tricky landing initially above the sloping block but it still seems to work. Some jamming involved but also some very interesting non-jamming moves! Looked pretty epic to me!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cartoonlands-21937/the_ten_crack_commandments-651813

[Wood FT]

I’d be keen to see a no frills guide for the Torquay stuff please

[EdGowSmith]

You missed one that I know of. Alexis Perry climbed the obvious crack left of Mufasa at Cartoonlands. He called it the Ten Crack Commandments and gave it 7C. Slightly tricky landing initially above the sloping block but it still seems to work. Some jamming involved but also some very interesting non-jamming moves! Looked pretty epic to me!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cartoonlands-21937/the_ten_crack_commandments-651813

Ah yes, I did forget about that one. Cheers.

I’d be keen to see a no frills guide for the Torquay stuff please

Cool, hopefully soon!

[Ged]

I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.

[Wood FT]

Lovely spot too

[Steamboat Stello]

I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.

I heard this mentioned but didn't realise it was quite as extensive as 10 grade 7's - very keen to head down!

[kingholmesy]

Good to Commitment Issues get done - it’s a fantastic line.

[Ged]

I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.

I heard this mentioned but didn't realise it was quite as extensive as 10 grade 7's - very keen to head down!

I stand corrected. 15. Although that includes the full traverse, and a few have shared starts.

It can be quite tricky to figure out what goes where at first. Alexis has linked to YouTube vids for the odd problem on UKC, might help

[macca7]

"Quite tricky"??

I had to go with almost impossible so hit the beach instead!!!

Hope you're well Ged!

[BrutusTheBear]

I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.

There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar. 
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job.  

That's just the tip of the iceberg though..  There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland.  New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area .  Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

[Ged]

Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke.  Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.

[kingholmesy]

…  and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

It’s coming along.  No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.

[BrutusTheBear]

…  and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

It’s coming along.  No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.

 
Looking forwards to seeing it, the rate of development could make it an never ending task though!

Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke.  Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.

  Nope.  Everything has been done and what's left is       
Plenty of potential, especially if you're into long and/or adventurous approaches or own a boat.  On the other hand there are some very good and very accessible venues that haven't been tapped to their full potential.  I've recently done an excellent new one at Lynmouth that has been in plain sight for years (albeit a bit algae covered!).  The coast comes into it's own over the summer months being north facing has it's advantages.
 

[CapitalistPunter]

…  and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

It’s coming along.  No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.

 
Looking forwards to seeing it, the rate of development could make it an never ending task though!

Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke.  Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.

  Nope.  Everything has been done and what's left is       
Plenty of potential, especially if you're into long and/or adventurous approaches or own a boat.  On the other hand there are some very good and very accessible venues that haven't been tapped to their full potential.  I've recently done an excellent new one at Lynmouth that has been in plain sight for years (albeit a bit algae covered!).  The coast comes into it's own over the summer months being north facing has it's advantages.

Nice one Brutus! Where is this new problem at Lynmouth?

I've always wanted to try and mantle the nose that Slopey Traverse Extension begins on. May have to attempt that as a heinous new problem assuming it hasn't already been done.

[BrutusTheBear]

…  and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??

It’s coming along.  No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.

 
Looking forwards to seeing it, the rate of development could make it an never ending task though!

Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke.  Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.

  Nope.  Everything has been done and what's left is       
Plenty of potential, especially if you're into long and/or adventurous approaches or own a boat.  On the other hand there are some very good and very accessible venues that haven't been tapped to their full potential.  I've recently done an excellent new one at Lynmouth that has been in plain sight for years (albeit a bit algae covered!).  The coast comes into it's own over the summer months being north facing has it's advantages.

Nice one Brutus! Where is this new problem at Lynmouth?

I've always wanted to try and mantle the nose that Slopey Traverse Extension begins on. May have to attempt that as a heinous new problem assuming it hasn't already been done.

New one at Lynmouth is on the 'jammed log' boulder, first boulder you get to in the jumble beneath the big slab boulder.  (The log is no longer there though!) ..  Traverses the lip r to l beneath the v green slab on the seaward side of the boulder, needs summer, warm sunny breezy weather to be in condition  Every Day I'm Shuffling 7b.  Manteling this lip from hanging at any point would be very hard if you're into that sort of thing.  Also the mantel on Walker's _ It Ain't Over Til It's Over is tough one.  There currently isn't a direct mantel on the nose of the Slopey Traverse boulder, fill your boots.  Capitalism sucks yoof

[CapitalistPunter]

The mantel on It Aint Over Till Its Over looks great. I was hoping to hop on the new link Pete put up leading into it but it was too wet for that.

And dont say that about my beloved capitalism! I will buy the land at Lynmouth and make people pay £2 per attempt on Slopey Traverse.