South West (England) Bouldering (Read 163829 times)

Danny · November 04, 2019, 09:25:07 am

Really cool. You made it look like a 6A!

Duma · December 09, 2019, 10:29:37 pm

So there was def more cool stuff in the woods, this looks amazing!

https://www.instagram.com/tv/B53ZliQJfTJ/?igshid=u025ipbhheu9

Ged · December 10, 2019, 07:33:23 am

I spotted walker on this a few years ago when he was trying it. Amazing line. That wall to the left is amazing too but doesn't seem to be any holds on it. Well done James.

tomrainbow · December 10, 2019, 08:38:14 am

Yes, fantastic effort James (not least in the sawing department). I would hate to add up the hours I've spent clearing fallen trees from boulders in them woods. Fun though isn't it!

Anyway, a majestic line and a real jewel in the crown for Devonian bouldering. James' line looks to me to be a bit more direct than what Walker was trying...I thought Walker was climbing entirely to the R of the arete? Is that correct Ged?

Ged · December 13, 2019, 07:33:07 pm

No I'd say he was going pretty similar to that. He'd linked it on top rope but couldn't do it before moving to Sweden.

What else of his is unrepeated? Under the rainbow? Yankee doodle dandy?

remus · January 20, 2020, 07:59:23 am

James Squire has made another fine looking (and hard) addition to dartmoor https://www.instagram.com/p/B7hL93fjVEK/

Duma · January 20, 2020, 08:58:00 am

Does look ace, but it's Bodmin, not Dartmoor

Ged · January 20, 2020, 09:33:37 am

Hardest problem in Cornwall?

Is this one that walker was trying? He mentioned something down that way that had a huge span on it...

Duma · January 20, 2020, 09:59:21 am

Think he was trying a direct up the same wall (inferred from ig comments)

jstrongman · January 20, 2020, 10:41:45 am

Looks epic, great work James. It was beautiful up on the moors yesterday, today looks mint too!! There is certainly a lot of potential on those Bodmin Moor Tors and surely a lot more to come as the eye of Squire and the like, turn their gaze South westward!!

EdGowSmith · January 21, 2020, 11:20:27 am

I made a video of the two days me and James had at Kilmar Tor, including his FA of Pursuit of Slappiness 8B+:

SA Chris · January 21, 2020, 12:22:47 pm

Ace, was that 2 days in a row, or time for skin growth inbetween? Does something go up the left side of the arete?

Looks like he's giving a sermon at the end!

EdGowSmith · January 21, 2020, 12:56:09 pm

A week in between thankfully!
There is a 6C+ that goes up the slab on the left in the middle, over a bad landing, but nothing further right using the arete for right hand I don't think. I looked at it but didn't try it. Would be good I reckon.

teestub · January 21, 2020, 02:33:12 pm

Nice! Like an 8B Baby Spice!

Duma · January 21, 2020, 02:55:46 pm

Nice vid Ed, thanks for posting. Enjoyed the one with the Bovey Project too.

is the "unknown 7C?" thing easy to find?

EdGowSmith · January 21, 2020, 03:37:33 pm

Quote from: Duma on January 21, 2020, 02:55:46 pm

Nice vid Ed, thanks for posting. Enjoyed the one with the Bovey Project too.

is the "unknown 7C?" thing easy to find?

Thanks.
Yeah, it's just uphill from the arete. Best way to them both is to walk along the road to the farm then cut up towards the prominent pancake-stack feature on the ridge. The boulders are just beneath that.
Tom Bunn said he climbed something on that feature at 7B+/7C so we went with 7C but I think it's definitely harder than that, maybe more like 8A.

36chambers · January 21, 2020, 10:09:33 pm

Quote from: EdGowSmith on January 21, 2020, 11:20:27 am

I made a video of the two days me and James had at Kilmar Tor, including his FA of Pursuit of Slappiness 8B+:

I really enjoyed that. Great style of editing.

GazM · February 22, 2020, 04:32:49 pm

What are the chances of finding dry rock on Dartmoor this coming Wednesday? I'm down visiting family and have a hankering for some skin shredding. The forecast has Weds as the one good(ish) day of the week (dry and breezy) so surely quick drying stuff would be ok?

Things like The Wave at Bonehill and Dancing Queen at Saddle Tor have been on my list for years. Any chance?

Duma · February 22, 2020, 05:23:27 pm

If the cloud's high enough a fair bit of that stuff will dry off in a couple of hours with a breeze.

GazM · February 22, 2020, 05:32:28 pm

Thanks Duma, that's what I hoped to hear!
It's been desperate finding dry rock up here in the Highlands this winter, same as everywhere I guess, so I'm keen to have a punt on anything while there's family around to look after the kids...

Ged · February 23, 2020, 02:20:45 pm

Wednesday will be fine for non sleepy stuff. I'd probably avoid the woods, but the wave and saddle tor should be grand

Easdon arete drys in about 5 seconds and is really good too

macca7 · February 23, 2020, 06:59:34 pm

Don't get on any of that sleepy stuff it's stiff for the grade

macca7 · February 26, 2020, 09:52:15 pm

How did you get on did you manage to get out today?

Fingers crossed you found something dry and didn't get blown away!

macca7 · February 26, 2020, 10:27:04 pm

James new mega problem at Kilmar tor has got me thinking i really should go and sample the bouldering on Bodmin moor.

Does any one know of a good topo or list of the better Bodmin Moor problems, personal suggestions.

I've been twice and always walked away a little underwhelmed

GazM · February 27, 2020, 07:37:40 am

Quote from: macca7 on February 26, 2020, 09:52:15 pm

How did you get on did you manage to get out today?

Fingers crossed you found something dry and didn't get blown away!

Sadly my pass was revoked so no joy for me. My wife has a cold so didn't fancy looking after both kids while I swanned off.